Daid

78.7402 should be the right value...

Nope, but I have had a boss who expected perfection every single time around, payed too little, and expected unpaided overtime.I left without warning. Got photos to share so we can judge your prints?

Are you running the latest firmware? Very early firmwares had a wrong amount of steps per mm set. You can set a different amount of steps per mm with the "M92" command. For example "M92 X78.7402 Y78.7402" sets the default of 78.7402 steps per mm of X and Y movement.

They are going to abandon RepG and switch to Cura. But there are some things that need to be arranged before that. There should be no calibration in the X/Y. What usually happens is that people think the accuracy is wrong. However, it's usually their testing method. If you print a 10x10 cube, and measure it, you have terminal shrinkage which causes your result to be slightly smaller. The proper way to see if you have a problem with the X/Y is to mount a pencil on the head and draw a line, and measure it. This will show that you X/Y is accurate.

I've added it to the wiki, good job in spotting that that tip was missing.

I think that is highly unlikely. A bit of extra friction from the curling of the spooled filament is nothing compared to the force needed to push the filament trough the nozzle.

At which temperature are your printing? You have cleared the issues: -Plugging -Bowden tube jam (because of bad tubes, wrong filament) So the only issue that I can think off is, stressing the extruder too much, this can be done by printing at a too low temperature or a too high speed (or a combination)

Have you measured your filament? While I think they no longer are shipping bad PLA, there are rolls of PLA with 3.2mm sections in them. The 3.2mm is too large for the hotend and thus will cause the problems you are seeing.

Compressing the wood after putting on the right short belt tension is good. This makes the washers digging into the wood, keeping the motors in place.Anyhow, instead of the wooden spacers you should add normal round spacers, same as found holding up the electronics, this reduces noise.

I did have "issues" like these. It's wood, and wood has variations. I had to hammer a few pieces out, and so I also had some parts that shown chipped pieces. But it does not effect the final result of the build. However, it might not look as pretty, so when possible try to put the chipped side on the insides.

Could you take some photo's? I'm not entirely sure which parts you are talking about. And I rather not give the wrong advice.

The echo in the terminal window is done before the M92 is set by Cura, so you will see the default value there. The value set in the top of the GCode is controlled by a setting in the preferences of Cura.

Are you printing with simple or normal mode? Simple mode does not heatup automaticly and thus requires manual heatup (will be changed in the next release because it's creating confusion)

Have you tried printing which a higher temperature? This fuses the layers together better. I would start off with 230C but you could go all the way to 250C. Also don't print too fast.

http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/ sells high quality glow in the dark (glowbug yellow)

You'll need to watch out for the cold extrusion prevention and the min/max temp trigger if you want to use the 5th stepper for something else.

For a 2nd extruder you would simply change the extruder with T0 and T1 (tool switch commands) and then the E starts to drive the other motor. However, with a full 5th axes you would get X,Y,Z,E,Q or example, however this is not implemented.

Do you mean like a 5th axes or like dual extrusion? (dual extrusion is supported by the firmware, 5th axes not)

Most likely your older macbook does not support 64bit applications. The bundled pypy is 64bit. If you remove the pypy directory, it will stop using pypy for slicing, which will make it about 4 times as slow, but it will work.

DO NOT USE SDHC CARDS! They might appear to work fine, but there is a bug in the software that could cause your prints to restart half way.

The config wizard restarts the machine whenever you do a new action, so that's normal. Sorry I did not add that.

The "missing start message" is a known problem. It's caused by some combination of OS and a few other things. I haven't been able to find access to a machine that has this exact problem. So I haven't been able to pin it down. However, a workaround is to close down the first run wizard, goto the preferences, and configure a serial port and baudrate (250000). As it is the auto-detection that is causing this.

If the stepper drivers overheat they shut off (and cool down quickly, and start up again). So you will get stuttering movement if you don't provide enough cooling. If you have an UltiController, don't forget to get proper cooling to the 12V regulator. Oh, and, YAY for a solution to remove the noise from the electronics fan!

Sadly it isn't.RepG 25 has a bug, where it won't turn the extruder motor if the temperature is too low. RepG 34 has some troubles running if you ran RepG 25 before it. RepG 25 most likely has the "dimension" not enabled in the SF settings, causing the extruder motor not to work during a normal print. Cura has become the "standard" Ultimaker software for a lot of users. This because it doesn't show all the issues that RepG does, and being faster at the same time. However, installing it on a Mac is not yet trival (but should be doable for most users with the current instructions) It's the whole frustration experience with RepG that caused me to make Cura.

No idea, didn't change anything critical there. Which OS are you using and did you try 12.08?