Daid

Can you check if you have an Arduino Mega 2560, or an old Arduino Mega? Also, check if you have 1.5.4 electronics or older. (It's on the green PCB, near the On/Off switch) See the difference: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560 New machines are shipped with the 2560, but a few old machines have the older Arduino, causing the Cura updater to fail. A few old machines are also shipped with 1.3 electronics, which require different settings to work.

Costs and complexity. Like this white piece: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_0529.small.JPG

If you use 1.0mm walls with a 0.4mm nozzle, it will put down 2 lines of 0.5mm. Cura is pretty smart in that aspect.

Ok. Odd. How comfortable would you feel with hacking some debug prints into the code?

On 95% of the kits, the X endstop markings on the wood are the wrong way around, so you might have to switch these. (It should be fixed for kits shipping right now)

Cura activates the fan on the 2nd layer, not on the first one. This improves the adhesion of the first layer. Maybe that's your fan problem. No idea about your other problem...

Did you try putting in a newer version of PyPy as I suggested in my previous post?

I have filled up some holes with manual extrusion (heat up the printer head, lower the bed, push some filament trough it and "print" by hand) But just about anything that fills holes should work. How about some gum?

I'm not sure if you are allowed to order these, but if you search for "tube" in the Ultimaker webshop it shows up: https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/bowden-tube.html For US people, mcmaster sells these tubes I think.

We had an Ultimaker meetup 2 days ago. I just noticed there where a few pictures taken: http://www.dusarchitects.dds.nl/kamerma ... ess/?p=424 Don't mind me looking very serious while turning my extruder wheel, just look at the other photos. It's a shame that Sierts mini-extruder is not on a photo. (Also, I misplaced my spool holder, I think I left it on another machine when I fixed their X endswitch connections)

CoreXY was commited to the mainline Marlin 4 days ago. So it's experimental. They need it for the Kamermaker project: http://kamermaker.nl/ I don't know how suited Marlin is for a PCB cnc mill, I heard it was having problems at low speeds.

How about not redesigning everything, but just put a connector piece of Teflon on top of the current PEEK? Plugs will happen in the Teflon (which won't stretch like the bowden tube does), and it will be slippery enough to push the plug back down. It is simple to machine, doesn't require any extra threads, and makes assembly easier. 2 new wooden plates (as you need to move the clip to the top of the head), 1 connector piece of Teflon, that's all it would need.

A few hints can really help in identifying the problem. Unaligned belts only cause belt ware as far as I know. So that shouldn't be causing your problem. Lose pulleys however, is a real problem. (but some pulleys are more critical then others, as I printed all my TITAN parts with 1 pulley missing the set screw)

The H-shaped X/Y frame is called CoreXY, and they added support to Marlin for it a few days ago. And it has come up as a possibility. But that was after I build this X/Y frame. You are free to draw up a quick design, but I think you will only win a few cm in 1 direction, and add a lot of complexity. And it might not even fit. I have considered steel cable (guitar strings or fishing line). However, it does not win you any space, and I felt more comfortable with belts, as they are easier to attach to something. Cables would be cheaper I guess. I have 2 10T5/800 belts, which I cut in half to make 4x 5T5/800 belts. I need 6 belts, which are all less then half the 800 length. These 2 belts costs about 10 euro each. So they do add in the cost of the machine. (I haven't done a BOM yet) But step 1 is a working machine. Step 2 will be improving on it, and as I will open up the design, everyone can improve on it if they want. I won't be building an heated chamber in my machine, but a simple change of the lasercut sides should provide with most sides closed. It will be the top (with the bowden tube) that is hard to seal. With the motors inside of the case, it should be even easier to heat it up

The rod is slightly short then. More people have that, but other then the sound it makes, it should not matter, as the movement of that rod is not translated to movement of the head. You can pad the inside of the caps with some kind of filling. (Soft padding or something might work)

While pulley slippage can happen, this usually results in layer shifts, not the problems you see now. And yes, there is no "too tight" for the short belts. It's not a problem of the GCode or the model. You should be able to see this clearly in the GCode preview of Cura. And a bit of oil never hurt anything ;-)

The blobbing on the first layer is usually because the bed it not at the perfect level. Usually the 2nd layer will flat this without problems. Belt tension. Did you check the tension of your small belts? You mention you have tensioners, but people sometimes forget that you also need to tension up the small belts by pushing down the motors.

That's a bit jumping to conclusions, especially with the firmware working fine in other machines. That is odd. It's almost as if the output of the Arduino is looped back into the input. Does this also happen if you connect to the Arduino without Ultimaker PCB connected?If it does, visually inspect the Arduino for any shorts near pin 0 and 1. If it doesn't, visually inspect the Ultimaker PCB at the same spot.

Well, when you almost run out of filament, there is no reason to stop directly. There is always the move buffer that needs to be finished, and after that I want to retract a bit and move the head away from the print. Then wait for the user to insert more filament, press a button, and continue printing. The expanding Z axes won't make it in the first design anyhow. My first goal is a working printer.

It's normal that connecting reboots the machine. However, it should start printing if you select the file from the SD card menu. Simple question, if you select a file, do you see that it starts to heat up? Usually the first thing in the start of the GCode file is a "heat up and wait till reached proper temperature". Maybe that is the simple reason why you think it's not working? (Yes, the documentation of the Ulticontroller menus is a bit absent. But the most important features are the SD card menu, and the temperature control)

This is also something I had on my mind for months, so I just opened another topic for this: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1147p That's a slightly different but also very interesting idea (maybe you could combine both, an toptical sensor on the other side of the mouse sensor, if you see the light from the mouse, then the filament is gone. (unless you have transparent filament) The foldarap, even when folded, is still a lot larger then the TITAN. But it gives a bigger print area. However, it will never be able to "print while moving". Battery powered is one of my design goals And how about a plug for your cars cigarette lighter? How about a printer that prints it's own legs? (Joris says it is possible)I think my design should scale in Z, just like the Ultimaker design (however, the Ultimaker+ gets more wobble as it gets taller) I suddenly get a strange idea on how to "scale up the Z". You could cut the machine in half, add some clips for rods, and just put 4 longer rods in the corners to make it taller. But then you also need to replace the Z guide rods. You get some more problems with the belts to the X/Y motors. But all can be solved later. As for the Z axes. On the UltiEvening yesterday people had 2 good ideas. One is a scissor jack solution, which should require very little space, but requires special software, as motion is not linear. And the other, much simpler solution is a hoist, you don't need a lot of force for the Z, as you just need to lower the bed. A simple wire hoist could be very space efficient, and much less costly then the Z screw used in the Ultimaker.

Actually, there still is "inside EU" customs. But they don't check everything, but do random checks. We've had a lucky "almost checked by customs" once when we crossed the NL border with a car full of empty DVDs (which are a lot cheaper in Germany). They where stopping checking cars only a few cars in front of us, but customs are still there.

Do you have an SD card or an SDHC card? SDHC is known to cause problems like this. Also, we identified a bug with Cura and Win7 yesterday, which caused the printer interface to fail. (which is most likely your problem there) Cura still comes with PrintRun (you can find it in the start menu) you can also use this to print a gcode file.

Ah, ok. My interpretation was that you stepper motor was missing steps. The extruder mechanism should be able to cope with quite some resistance, but you need get the tension knob just right.

The Ultimaker doesn't come with belt tensioners. But if you install these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 (printable) then your machine will become even more awesome. As for retraction, it's a bit of an more advanced feature. I recommend you play with what you have now first, and explore other software options a bit later.