Daid

If you get a MINTEMP or a MAXTEMP trigger, then you are having problems with your temperature sensor. Unrelated to the project planner. In the other news. The project planner in 12.08 contains a bug if you leave the temperature setting at zero. This bug makes the heater turn off after the first object. So always configure a temperature when you are using the project planner!

It also lists the wrong kind of M3 screws I think. It list "socket cap" screws, which are "DIN 912", but what is supplied with the kit are "socket button head" screws, type: "ISO 7380". Using the ISO/DIN numbers makes it much easier to find the correct screws. I got some great help on #reprap yesterday to track down these types of screws. As I needed them for my TITAN. EDIT: Oh, and I think the heater&thermocouple are custom parts. Best just order them from UM, or use slightly different ones. You could replace the whole hotend with a J-Head hotend or another type of hotend. (just type "hotend?" on #reprap, and you'll get a whole list of possible hotends)

I recommend you fix the temperature problem first. It's quite possible the extruder refuses to do anything because of a temperature problem.

It's ok. You cannot damage your Ultimaker this way.

There is no soldering required to build an Ultimaker. With the build instructions, and some help from people on the forums in case you go wrong somewhere, you should do fine. If you are really worried, you can try to see if someone with knowledge of assembling an UM lives nearby. I assembled mine in 8 hours, with just the instructions from the Wiki and no 3D printer knowledge beforehand.

Windows behaves VERY badly in this case. Try to avoid this if possible.Not sure why it has troubles connecting. It should report connection attempts in the black dos box. However, what you can try, is configuring the COM port and baudrate in the preferences. It uses auto detection by default, which seems to cause problems for a small group of people. (Baudrate is 250000 with the Cura firmware)

I'm pretty sure it's not a software problem. Unless you are using a very old firmware version, but I think even kits ship with a newer firmware then the one that had these problems. Once the motors are powered, is it easy to move the printer head by hand? It should not be impossible with motor power on it, but you should feel quite a bit of force working against you.

First, your English is fine. It's better then some Americans. All the text is hard coded. But with gettext you just need to wrap those text strings into a _() call. Not that hard, but you have to go trough all the code. As for the scaling, almost all the GUI's scale already with layout managers. So I don't think there will be many problems there. But you still have to check everything. But, IMHO. It's not worth the effort right now. Everything related to 3D printers is in English already (or should be!) (FYI: I'm native Dutch. And it's rare to find a Dutch person that cannot understand English. Maybe it has something to do with that we don't dub movies)

I think there where some problems with ordering belts, as different suppliers use different numbering schemes. And I think using 298MXL or 297MXL belts was the best option. But the belts from Ultimaker have 240MXL written on them. See: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=621

The kit ships with switches like these: http://www.reichelt.de/Schnappschalter- ... a139cf72a4 However, for the Z switch, some people prefer to remove the metal lever. As this increases precision.

I received a query about translating to Polish a while back. The problem with translations are 4 fold. * First it's updating all the software so support translations. * Secondly you need to translate all the texts to different languages. * Thirdly you need to update the GUI so all translations fit on the GUI (shouldn't be a huge problem in Cura) * Lastly you need to maintain all translations on updates. The first and third points are not that hard. The 2nd step can be a community effort, but it's the 4th point that makes me holding back on this. Maintaining the translations is a hard job, especially when I change things, suddenly you could end up with out-of-sync translations or missing translations for new parts.

Also FYI, the kit has long time stopped shipping square nuts. Normal hex nuts work just as good, and there are a few places where you cannot use square nuts. So using hex nuts everywhere is easier.

Belts shipped with the UM shouldn't sag with time and use, but they are a bit to lengthy, so you have to add some belt tensioners. There are a few designs for those on thingiverse.

I recommend you look at your belt tension first, I can clearly see that your circles are not round and they should be. This is almost always because you don't have enough tension in your belts.

The Z coupler needs to go from 5mm to the Z screw, I've seen shops sell them, but they are not cheap. The Z drive nut is a custom machined part as far as I know. Not sure what those other 2 parts are.

Skirts are made convex so they don't work like a brim (they sort of do, but not really in all cases) But it's on my wish list: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/180

My TITAN design is already on github, but it's unfinished (no extruder, Z stage unfinished). I'm testing out the Z stage right now. It's unfinished and very experimental right now. One of my bearings keeps dropping out. So I need to secure that one. I realized the other day that there is not enough room for the motor-Y belt going up. And the Z stage is depending on gravity to move down but that might not work, as it does not seem to run fully smooth. I also ran out of M3 screws before I could assemble everything I have, so I need to source more of those. Short version: Do not attempt to build a TITAN unless you are willing to spend a lot of time changing and fixing things. It's my play machine, not a finished design.

Make sure those are really tight. I'm not a huge fan of the current small screw blocks, but I don't know any better solution.

Would it be possible to build it without the spring and tiny bearing? That way I don't need extra parts, but I can still have the better quicklock mechanism.

Your delay could also be because you ordered extra PLA or other parts that where not in stock. 2 weeks lead time is insanely quick. At my current work place we have parts with 2 months of lead time. But then again, even with next-day-shipping people would complain. It's the nature of people. (I do hope their new community manager gets active soon)

I posted a short list of changes on the google groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgr ... GsPRNp4Qf8

Most likely it's a MINTEMP or MAXTEMP trigger, which is not correctly reported to the display (that sucks, I know) It happens because of a bad connection to the temperature sensor, so you might want to double check those connections. However, it should also happen with USB printing.

With the current setup it's almost impossible to complete eliminate the oozing (which is causing your lines) And yes, you should leave it at 0.6mm.

Nope, the support structures are only in the GCode, and RepG doesn't show the GCode (Cura does however)

I don't know how to enable it in RepG. But the recommended software for printing is Cura. And yes, no need to model it. You can if you wish, and sometimes modelled support is better then automated. But that's something to try out yourself.