Daid

Belt tension. Belt tension. Belt tension.

Oh, I could have mixed those 2 up

You should ask Joris. He prints with 0.8mm nozzles, and has tested with a 3.0mm nozzle. That way he reached the heater limits.

You baked the final object or the PLA before extrusion? Because that result looks pretty good. As for the strings, check the google groups for the retraction settings test from florian. With the experimental dwindle settings in Cura it is possible to get better (or worse) results.

There is no chart, but there are a few different colors: - Green = outer wall lines - Red = inner wall lines - Cyan = support/skirt - Dark blue = moves (thin lines) - 3 other colors = infill (cycles between the 3 colors)

I actually recommend this gear script: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3575 I used it for this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23589 I think the script I used generates better gears the the other script.

2 tips: 1. Lower the printing speed to 50mm/s. Yes your print will take longer, but the "scaring" on the side will be gone. 2. Check your belt tension. I'm seeing some signs of weak belts, but this could also be caused by the high speed.

I'll be opening up the design as soon as it's working. This is just my prototype right now. Once it works, I'm going to cut the case again, but in 3mm wood instead of the 6mm (to save weight). I'm also going to print all parts again in a fancy color. I hate my black, but I have lots of it, so perfect for test parts, I already had to replace just about every part you see, just because I had some problems with getting the belts in there. Then it's not the printer for you :lol: Make it pink and it attracts girls. Would be nice to get more girls interrested in tech tough. I'm very interrested in the quality myself. As the design is simply a small Ultimaker, I think I should get the same quality. But I replaced the belts with T5 belts, the pulleys with printed versions. And the bearings and bushings with printed bushings. (which might cause problems) I was looking at the Tantillus, and I took a few bits from that design (like the printed bushings) but there are parts that I don't like about it. Like the outside gears, and the lack of belts. (belts make me feel more comfortable)As for a resin printer. I don't like the idea of having resin in my home. I can be clumsy, and I know I will spill it. I do like the results I see, but I am wondering about the strength of the parts, as so far I've only seen "pretty prints" (not that pretty prints aren't great, they are) The noise might be an issue tough, if you place it on your desk I think the TITAN could have a printed case. But if the design works, and people are interested, I could offer lasercut kits (I think the lasercut parts only need to cost like 20-30 Euro). Maybe I could even work with Ultimaker to sell full kits (as I need a few Ultimaker parts) but first, let's get this machine working, then maybe a kickstarter... The Z stage will be my biggest hurdle now. If I place the Z screw on top of the motor, I don't think it has enough length for 80mm before it hits the X/Y assembly. I just have to try some arrangements.As my photo shows, I already solved the belt tension issue. It looks a bit odd on the photo, as it only has 1 screw in it. But with 2 screws it works great. I'm also clamping the belts in the slider blocks with the X/Y rods. Which is a very clever design I think. (and very small) The slider blocks took 4 iterations to get right, so that where quite a few wasted prints The printed Ultimaker head style was smaller then a wood cut version (I designed a wood version first). I'm using a wooden plate as bottom plate, however, this might not provide enough isolation and thus the bottom printed part might melt. If this is the case, then I can replace the bottom wood plate with an alu plate as in the Ultimaker. As for filament changing. The extruder motor is the one in the front, without a pulley on it. A direct drive extruder would be the most space efficient (but will it be strong enough?). I can see how you could think that changing filament would be hard. But a bit of extra tube going from one side of the machine to the extruder would solve that I guess. I'm also thinking about an "out of filament" sensor. Which pauses your print if you are almost running out of filament. I did not have to. Ultimaker already did this. (But don't tell anyone I said this, it's a secret, and still in testing phase)

Yes. For dutch people. The cheapest painters tape from the Gamma works very well. It's 50% wider then the normal blue tape of Ultimaker, and PLA sticks on it just as well. The only disadvantiage is that the tape is less sticky, so it can detach itself from the bed. (you need to tape it around the edges of the bed to keep it down) But it's really cheap at 2 euro per roll. And because it's wider it is very easy to put on. It's also a bit tougher, so it doesn't scratch as easy. I now find myself replacing tape because it has too many skirts on it, not because it's scratched. Now I just need to figure out the stickiness issue, as you do get a bit more warping with this tape.

In my experience, gears need about 0.2mm clearance compared to the model. But yours look a lot bigger then that. The single outer border works very good for gears, so that is good. It's a bit hard to judge without your model and knowing which software you are using. Got some more info?

Yes, schematics are available. This is the PCB of the Ultimaker itself: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.4_PCB You will have a 1.5.6, but the differences are not that great, the main difference is a jumper "ARDPWR" between the 12V line and the Vin of the Arduino. The UltiController is the same as this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 You should contact support if you suspect faulty hardware. (support is always quite busy, so the more info you can give them, the better and quicker you get a response)

Yes. And it is quite simple. Select "upload custom firmware" from Cura 12.07, then goto the Cura installation location (default C:\program files\Cura 12.07\) there goto the "firmware" folder, and select "ultimaker_115200.hex". This will install a 115200 baud firmware which should work with the Ulticontroller and RepG34 or higher.

I've printed at 120mm/s with a stock setup. Does require a good oiled machine and a high temperature.With Joris machines, with a 0.8mm nozzle, the limiting speed factor is not the extruder drive, but the speed at which it can melt the filament.

Did you check the extruder motor power? Sounds like it is missing steps. http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

The "extra printable companion cube" has a flat bottom. So the bottom matches the model (I've printed tons of these) Also, your print looks pretty good. Very good for "just starting with 3D printing". I think you could use some belt tension, do you have belt tensioners already? In my experience, 0.1mm layers give the best quality. And that's also what the "high quality" profile of Cura does. Other then that, there are some tiny strings, so you might want to experiment with retraction. But it took me a few months to get where you are now ;-)

About 90% of my prints are smaller then 80x80x80mm. So, just about anything?Yes, it is too small for some prints. But so is the Ultimaker ;-) And the TITAN is designed for portability, so you don't want to do long prints on it. You want to do quick prints, at location. Most likely I will also fit it with an 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle, instead of the stock 0.4mm. Of the currently last 10 featured items on Thingiverse, 1 is not a printable object. 1 is unfinished, and 2 are too large for 80x80x80. The other 6 are printable on that size. All printed parts can be printed with the Ultimaker. (Or the TITAN itself) But the case is lasercut right now. And I think the Z stage will also have some lasercut parts.

Then the most likely cause becomes a bad connection or bad cable.

I found my Ultimaker very pleasant, and very fun to print with. However, I have one problem with it. The size. So, I'm working on a new printer. A different sized printer. So (thanks to Jelle) I call it now the "TITAN" ... ... ... Making sure you have to scroll for extra drama effect. .... ... I'm serious. ... Really. ... Ok. I'll show you: It's the TITAN prototype I'm working on. Sitting next to my Ultimaker. As you can see it is not finished. And as you can see, it is small. How small exactly? Let me show you this size chart I made: These are outer dimensions, on scale. Width and height. As you can see, the Ultimaker is almost the largest printer, but a Prusa mendel is even bigger. And the replicator is gigantic. The Huxley is a portable Prusa, smaller to make it easier to take with you. The Tantillus is a "portable open source 3D printer". Both are suppose to be small printers. Notes on the size chart: [*:2cj3a700]Prusa Mendel size is guessed, could be larger, I could not find the outside size from the documentation. [*:2cj3a700]The Ultimaker is larger then advertized, I used the advertized size, but the real size should include the extruder drives, which would make it 110mm larger. Making it larger then an Mendel. [*:2cj3a700]When looking at width, I took the largest of width and depth of a machine. [*:2cj3a700]The printrbot is missing, because of the many variations, and I could not find the size. But I expect it to be about the same as a Prusa. [*:2cj3a700]The Tantillus also cheats with it's size, as it has gears on the outside. But all are giants compared to the TITAN. It's only 180x180x180mm. And with this size it fits inside of an Ultimaker. Even at this size, I manage to get an 80x80x80 build area. Or I should say. I hope to get an 80x80x80 build area. Because I'm still working on it. The goal of the TITAN is an easy transportable 3D printer. So it should be small, light weight and tough. Which is my main problem with the Ultimaker, I don't like transporting it. Not because it's not sturdy (because it is, I don't fear breaking it on transport) but it's heavy and bulky. So the TITAN will be light, small and sturdy. I'm using the Ultimaker hotend. Which is pretty small compared to the alternatives. (I had one spare and you can order them online) As I'm building and testing the X/Y parts right now, I still need to design the Z stage (which I will figure out, I've figured out solutions for all other problems so far) My current design (in OpenSCAD) looks like this: As you can see, I already placed the motors in there. And there is a gray box for the build area (so I know what to stay clear from). For the math people, yes, there are 4 motors there. Unlike the Ultimaker design, I want to put my extruder drive inside of the machine. Same as the Tantillus does. Which makes it very crowded in there. Unlike the Ultimaker, I want to see if I can make the bowden tube "quick release". So that during transportation, you can unclip the tube, and put it inside of the machine. So it really is only 180x180x180 during transportation (the tube is the only thing sticking out of the 180x180x180 area) I still have more to figure out, but I also see a battery powered TITAN as an option. I know Joris already has done it with an Ultimaker. Would be totally awesome to walk around with this thing :-) As I'm building and designing this, people around me start to have ideas on how to improve it, change it, which is great. But first I want to get this prototype ready and working. I guess some people want to know if I will open source it. Yes, I will. But not right now. For 2 reasons, first I don't want my half finished and most likely changing, design to be out there disappointing people. And also, the design currently contains a beta hot-end from Ultimaker. So it would be impossible to build right now anyhow.

The Arduino uses 12V to make the 5V for the UltiController. You could try plugging in an USB cable to a computer, just to test. If the problem is gone then, then it's the 12V regulator.

Odd... could be a bug in pypy, while rare, it has happened before. You could try replacing the shipped pypy with the latest nightly to see if it fixes the problem: http://buildbot.pypy.org/nightly/trunk/

Did you by and chance change the start or end GCode?

Just pushing it with your finger should be enough, but it requires quite a bit of force to get it in there. A little bird told me that for the next design they moved the clip on top, so it's easier to install and more away from the heat.

If you configure the steps-per-E in Cura, then yes. It's added to the start of the GCode file.

The tipped corners are rounded off. Mine are also 29x29mm.

If it happens after an hour, it could also be that the 12V regulator is very slowly overheating.