Daid

Problem with a quick and dirty profile is that it does not really work on the UM2.

See how I sometimes totally mis something. Twice? Yes. The PU engine is addressing "per extruder settings", however, we haven't worked out the GUI part of this yet. So work for this is being done. But it's a complex issue. And the "cool down unused extruder" only works for large prints, and my test prints where not that large that you could get significant cooldown. (Once again, the UM2 will help a bit at this aspect)

Note that in my opinion, this one restricts the airflow too much. As the fans are not that good at compressing air. So you're actually not getting that much flow out of that nozzle. However, the flow that you do get is nicely concentrated, so most likely it will work like a charm on small prints. The duct that Sander linked is the one I'm using for years already. Serves me really well, and it's designed to be sturdy, so it might not melt with the heated bed, but I haven't tested that. (Blue tape for life!)

I expected better from you guys, you should be able to tell from that photo if it's dual or not.

This. (I'll post more when the announcement is done. I usually cause enough headache for marketing and sales already by talking before my turn :-) )

For you. I have a laptop which simply refuses to do stable USB printing. I've tried everything you can think of. This was my only laptop I had when I bought my Ultimaker, and caused a LOT of frustration.

Yes. Firmware 14.12 adds this "heater error". It's added to prevent anything bad happening to your hotend. Firmware 14.12.1 updates on this, by changing the parameters for this error to happen. So that it does not happen on machines with weak heaters. How does the heater error work? When the heating is on full power (100% output) a timer starts. This timer is stopped as soon as the heating is no longer 100%. The timer runs out after 20 seconds. After these 20 seconds of full power heating, the temperature is compared to the temperature at the start of the timer. If the temperature did not increase by 10C then the heater error is generated. Now, the worst case I've found in the office. Was a 21W heater (normal is 25W). Which warmed up 20C in 20 seconds, starting from 260C dropping to 200C and then at 200C turning the heater full on. Pretty much the worse case that can happen, as you first get a continued drop from the cooling down. Now, if you are getting this error. Check the following: * The heater and temperature sensor should be fully in the hotend so that no full round metal is sticking out. As that's bad stuff, and that's exactly what this new error is trying to detect. * Make sure you have firmware 14.12.1 or newer. As 14.12 was calibrated on machines with strong heaters by mistake. * The fan air-flow should not hit the hotend blok. Some custom fan shrouds have the bottom open. Which isn't that great for airflow when the bed is near. (Cura's "fan full at height" setting can help here to battle this) (Bold so I can find this post quicker and referrer back to it easier)

90% of the people never change the filament diameter from the default. And for good reasons. It does not help as much as you think. In the most extreme case, 3.0mm instead of 2.85 filament. You get 10% more flow. However, if you measure the actual flow compared to the requested flow, there is a 10-20% difference depending on the speed already. And most filaments are never more then 0.1mm out of spec. So the added value there is low compared to the gain. It's the last few percentage tweaks. Not something that belongs in the "easy access" mode.

Yes and no. For some people, we need click to print. For other people, we need the other options that Cura offer. I want printing to become easier for the simple users, while also giving the advanced users more control that they are wishing for. But at the same time I want to be careful that I don't create an unwieldable beast.

Pretty sure your export scale is set to cm then, simple change to mm and you're golden without scaling issues.

Nope. Main simple reason is that the quickprint mode is designed for easy of use, especially for new users. And a GUI like that is quite daunting to use. What happens if I change a setting, does the profile change as well? And what if I mess up a profile, how do I reset it?

Yes. Been using them on my home machine (UMO) during the holidays. Produced awesome prints. Yes, you do get some extruder lag, so the speeds might not be 100% optimal yet. Which is also why the order of things was quite important. (So the printing goes from fast to slower in a layer. And starts with infill, as infill can miss a bit of plastic) Thanks. I'll have to check that (filling of those tags and plugins are both modifing the gcode after slicing, so there could be a small conflict there)

To explain that answer. We think the UM2 should show simplicity by default. Not complexity. The simple printing screen fits the simple usage of the machine. (Now, an option to enable an more advanced print screen might happen one day. But, so little time, so much to do...)

Meestal gaan kleine prints een stuk beter als je er meerdere tegelijk van print. Bevoorbeeld, het Ultimaker Robotje wordt iets mooier als je er 2 tegelijk print. Ik verwacht dat dit met deze prints ook zo zal zijn. Kleine prints is moeilijker dan groote prints, omdat de cooling een stuk lastiger is.

To add on above. In my experience, it's easier to push the original up to higher speeds (sacrificing quality for speed), but the 2 gives a bit better quality due to the two way cooling, and slightly less oozing. (Note that I love my own original, and I wouldn't trade it in for a 2. But that's a personal thing)

I'll put this bug under the "to many french people in the world" box ;-) There will be a few more of these "text won't fit on none-english version" bugs. It's one of the things that makes localization hard.

Yes, because that print window still has the "old" print in it. You need to refresh it, or else it will print with whatever it was opened.

Makes perfect sense. The early UM2s had a 10mm longer print head then the newer UM2s. And Cura is setup so both version work safely. So yes, you have 10mm MORE Z space then advertised.

The "not use USB" is only a default for the UM2. All the other printers can run trough USB (at your own risk)

Pictures might help? As I'm not 100% sure what you're trying to do, and if it's a Cura problem, a model problem, or an understanding each other problem.

2.4mm^3/s for the infill. 1.92mm^3/s for the inner shell. (For the HQ profile) Should be easy to achieve that on 210C. Did you get a temperature sensor error, or an heater error? Very important difference. As an heater error indicates that you have a problem with the hotend, which could also explain the underextrusion you where seeing.

Hi, At my usual location, I've put up a new RC (15.01-RC6 at this time of speaking), which has a few changes. Next to a bunch of small fixes to bugs that people reported. I've also changed the default quickprint profiles. Now. The quickprint profiles are accessible by going to "Expert -> Switch to quickprint mode". The new profiles are: "Fast print" - Prints fast, loses some quality, but still looks quite nice. (0.15mm layers) "Normal print" - Prints a bit slower, and thinner layers (0.1mm layers). Looks great. "High quality" - Prints on 0.06mm layers, gets awesome quality prints. "Ulti quality" - Prints on 0.04mm layers, pretty much best quality you can get. These new profiles have been made by Bluebot (Paul). Who has done some of the best quality prints ever seen: https://www.flickr.com/photos/66753090@N08/6222622084/in/photostream/ For these new profiles, I added 1 new setting. For top/bottom skin speed. And changed the order in which some parts are printed it a bit. This gets the best possible print quality. Get it at: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ I would love to know if these profiles are giving anyone any troubles. And I think they will improve print speed AND quality for most if not all basic prints. Now. As for added bonuses. BONUS A: If you switch back from quickprint to normal print, you get asked if you want to copy the selected quickprint profile to your normal settings. So finally, you no longer have to use the "load profile from gcode trick". BONUS B: If you're not happy with the default quickprint profiles. (And face it, some of you guys are not going to be happy, as always) you can finally customize them! The profiles are stored at: C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.01-RC6\resources\quickprint\ But, as you normally are not allowed to write at that location, you can also copy the "quickprint" folder to: C:\Users\[username]\.cura\quickprint\ And then the files are read from that location instead of the normal resource location. Note that there are 2 sets of profiles, first the normal "quality" profiles, and then the material profiles. ALL the settings that are found in the material profiles OVERRULE the quality profiles. So if you save a full profile over the PLA profile, and use that, it will overrule all other settings. The files are simple ini files, can be edited by hand, and follow the same name=value settings as when you do a "file -> save profile".

Uhm. No. This cable was a preperation for a safety circuit (combined with the 2 jumpers next to the endstop connections) if the safety is disconnected then the machine shuts off all "high power" drivers (heaters/steppers) Now, in the end, we couldn't find a spot to put a proper temperature switch that would trip fast enough and be compact enough to fit in the head.

Closer investigation shows that 14.12 and 14.09 are actually not slicing this model correctly. But that a debug draw was still enabled causing the above confusion. It seems I mistakenly left the "draw open edges" on, which are drawn in red, and thus look like the side of the model is actually printed. With 14.12.1 I removed this debug drawing, and thus the model actually shows as it's printed. (And yes, like you said, the model needs quite some more work before it's printable, lots of open faces)

Already fixed for the next RC, noticed this myself as well. This is due to the fact that I split the top/bottom from the sparse infill. And the layer view did not know how to color the new "top/bottom skin" (and thus not coloring it at all). This new split means you can set the top/bottom speed separate from the infill speed.