Daid

Priming more then retraction does not really solve the problem. Most likely this material you "lost" is ending up somewhere else, which is what you might want to address. Print temperature could be a huge influence here, so you might want to print cooler.

Note that the above problem seems to relate to pyobjc, not to Cura. I cannot really provide you with much assistance here. It works on our Mac build machine, not sure why. But as Nallath already pointed out (in a not so friendly way), developing on a Mac is tricky, we try to touch the build machine as little as possible to make sure the build environment does not break.

With 1.0 shell you get 0.5mm width lines, which means less lines to fill the area, and thus less printing time.

Note the stange movements (zigzag and the odd order in which to print things) are a result of a bug in the current release. The latest RC has this fixed: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

In 300 hours you run trough about 15 rolls of PLA. Which is about 472.50 euros (ex tax). So that part adds about 3% running costs. But, that's not the reality. The reality is that we're also learning. The market is moving so fast that everyone is having a hard time keeping up. (See Makerbot for example. They thought they had everything running smoother then they really have. Causing more problems for them now with their smart extruder) Ideally the machine requires little to no maintenance. But for the UM2 I would say the following parts need maintenance replacement, in that order: * The PTFE is the first to go as everyone has noticed. The latest pieces are a bit better then the first ones shipping. But be sure that we're not 100% happy about this yet. * The nozzle is the next bit. While it can last forever, it can clogged or get damaged. * The PT100 sensor. Wait? What? Yes. This one can break if you are trying to replace the nozzle. As the wires are a bit thin this breaks easier then the heater. The nozzle+heaterblock as once piece might haven't been the best design for maintenance. * The "hotend isolator", that round thingy with the holes in it. If you screw the nozzle in wrong, then you can ruin the threads of this thing and it will leak like no tomorrow. You might be able to fix this with teflon tape, but that's something I never tested (did work for my Ultimaker Original which also leaked like no tomorrow) All the other parts, I've never seen those break under normal use. But some people have reported that their belts wear out after lots and lots of use. However, I don't think those fail instantly, they just get worse, so you have time to get replacements when you notice they start to wear too much. (The heated bed is one of the most often replaced parts right now. But that's due to production issues, which our electronics guy is working on to solve. Once the bed works it never needs to be replaced) Now, I have one of the older UM Originals at home. It's still running the stock hotend (first version), first bowden tube, none of the belts, bearings, or anything has been replaced in 3 years, except for some upgrades. So some machines simply run forever, while others need maintenance. We to not know why yet.

Yes, that helps a lot. I think I managed to fix it, but this does mean that some new functionality for plugins that dimensioneer was working on won't work on MacOS. I'll have to look at the firmware things after my vacation. (Simply to little time now to really dive into it)

NO. This is purely a visual bug. The layer view of Cura does not display all layers, the model is printed fine.

I've uploaded a Cura 14.11-RC7 to: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ This version contains a bunch of fixes including: * Fix for path order (zig-zag problem seen in 14.09). This also caused problems for spiralize. * Slicing of really big files on windows (more then 200MB of GCode) * Loading more files by double-clicking on them in windows. (stopped working after the 2nd file) * More raft settings * Added "..." expert buttons to some settings to allow for quick access to the expert settings of things like raft/support/brim/infill. * Updated UM2 firmware with some extra safety features, detects if something is struck under the bed or if the endstop is stuck, and give an error instead of slamming the printbed into the nozzle. * Updated UM2 firmware so the hotend temperature control has more stability * Updated UM2 firmware to allow for import/export of material profiles to SD. Allows you to copy the profiles to other machines, or adjust the names of the material profiles. * Fixed issues with the german version and everywhere support material. * Updated french translation errors, thanks to Jeremie Francois * Improved Cura calculation speed on large models with lots of infill. (Up to 40% faster!) * Made the firmware version numbers match the Cura release version numbers. Always. Yes, that's a bunch of changes. But it's not 100% ready for a release yet. But as I've been posting it in many topics, I figured I better put a full list here. I also updated it today, adding the "quick access expert buttons". As well as the raft settings. And I'm curious how the "quick access expert buttons" are received by people. As I think the current "expert settings" dialog is becoming way to big. (Also, I'll be on vacation for 2 weeks as of Monday. So small chance that there will be a new testing version in those 2 weeks) Currently there is 1 known bug: * Plugins do not seem to work correctly with the UM2.

New RC has a few extra raft settings that might help tuning the settings more to perfection: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

That feature is more for copying settings on a fresh install from older installs. Losing settings is just something I rather do not have happening in general ;-)

Yes, most likely a bug on the Cura side. I'll check to see where this can go wrong.

Sorry that I bump in a bit late. But those parts do not reach temperatures over 55C. The bottom part reaches about 50C when the nozzle is 220C. And the top is 42C then. In a default UM2 setup.

If that is what the supplier recommends, most likely, yes. PVA is tricky material, and I would regard it as highly experimental if you have some. So you will have to play with it to find the proper settings. Start with what the supplier recommends and go from there. But I cannot say "if you use settings X it will print nice"

I still find it odd that this can effect quality like this. Do you know if your bed temperature is stable without the PID enabled?

UM's material quality depends a bit on the color. White isn't that good (printing wise, diameter wise they are all great). UltimateBlue and Magenta are also a bit lower in printing quality. Rest is generally good. I prefer the Silver, Red, Yellow and Pearl colors from Ultimaker myself, as those seem to print really nice. ColorFabb, their material is good. But can be more tricky to print, as it has a lower temperature "band" in which it prints good. You'll have to find out the proper printing temperature per color for your machine. Which can be a bit tricky. And, Faberdashery is always high quality. So if you want super quality stuff. That's the place to go. Their white is perfect compared to any other white I tried. But unsure if they ship it on spools these days. It used to be unspooled which is really tricky for large prints. To avoid: Any cheap stuff from ebay. 123ink

Yes. The UM2 looks at the "MATERIAL" lines to know which hotends (in case of dual-extrusion) to heatup. With no values there, the UM2 decides that it does not need to heatup anything.

Nope, cannot do that. That would be in violation with those rules. What we (Ultimaker) supply has to comply with those rules, else we can get some hefty fines.

Latest RC (14.10-RC6) has changes in it to look in more locations for older config files to copy, if no config is found.

Single extrusion. UM2. Tried various temperatures, depending on the type of PVA (we got different possible suppliers, which need different settings). I didn't do most of the tests, so I do not know the exact details, but I know various different settings where tried. These where not simple one off tests, quite extensive testing has been done, and no solution for the crosslinking problem has been found by varying the settings.

Good luck on the scratching. You might want to go for different hole sizes. Going from 1.90 to 1.75 is 1 go might be a lot. So going from 1.90 to 1.85 to 1.8 to 1.75 might be better steps. Finally, you could check the hotend of the Printrbot. It might accept filament up to 1.80-1.85. You'll have to measure the internal hole some way, so that might not be easy on those hotends. As I don't think the feeding mechanism is the problem on the Printrbot accepting 1.90

Where did you think the above information came from? Yes. We're looking into this. It's the main use for dual-extrusion right now. But we haven't solved the problem. (We are working with 3th parties, but sharing who those are isn't my place to do so) Another use for dual-extrusion could be mixing 2 different materials in 1 print. Flexable materials could be interesting. But what I really hope for (but haven't seen yet) is a properly conducting filament. Not the 10kOhm/cm material that you can get right now. As a well conducting material would make 3D circuits possible. The material available right now can only be used for touch-sensing goals.

http://fbrc8.com/ might be able to help you. They handle after-sales&support for the USA. (Their website only sells materials, but I think they might be able to do more for you in email. But not 100% sure)

Soluble support material. Currently there are 2 real options that people are trying to use: 1) PVA 2) HIPS Let me talk about HIPS first. First of, it's a styrene. Printing it gives off styrene gas during printing. Wikipedia can fill you on in the details of that: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Styrene#Health_effects Limonene needs to be used to disolve HIPS after printing. Which is a biological turpentine. Nasty stuff that needs special storage and special handling. So. HIPS? Not really something we to do as Ultimaker, as we like our customers healthy. PVA. Great on paper. As it dissolves in water. No nasty chemicals. Prints nice. Sticks well to PLA. However. 2 problems. Problem 1 "Crosslinking". This is the effect where PVA turns into carbon chains at temperatures. PVA seems to degrade and the older it is, the easier it crosslinks into carbon, blocking your nozzle. Pretty much requiring you to drill out the nozzle or buy a new one. Pretty annoying, as we haven't found the parameters yet which cause this. Rolls that print fine the first day, cause problems the next day. Right now, it's pretty much "once you get it out of the bag, you have 12 hours, after that it's danger material". Problem 2. This stuff is soft at low temperatures. 35C it's soft. With the feeder wheel reaching 35-40C during normal operation, the PVA grinds very easy on retractions. Bonus solution: PLA does get soft at 100C. So if we would have a 2nd material that is still 100% stiff at 100C you could use PLA as support and the other material as build material. This is just an idea that we haven't tested yet.

Well, in reality, there won't be any real risk. But with the bed PID enabled we went over the maximum emission by a few db at a single frequency (a harmonic of the bed PWM frequency, not sure which it was). Any radio equipment will have enough filtering to withstand this with ease. CE regulations are quite hard on the emission rules.

You'll break the filament before you "rip off" the bad pieces. 1.90 does not has to be a problem, but it depends on your hotend and feeder. As this is 1.75mm, I assume you do not have an Ultimaker. So the normal Ultimaker solutions might not apply. What kind of machine do you have?