Daid

I do find this really odd. As Cura never deletes the configuration file. On one of these crashes, can someone try to see if they have a log file, it should be in the installation directory of Cura, called "output.txt"

G4 is een delay commando, dus daar kun je mee wachten als je dat nodig hebt.

Looking at it I see that the screw holes that keep the fan bracket in place have no damage. That most likely means that the screws where missing or vibrated lose. After that the bracket came lose, came under the printer head, causing hell. Can you check if you can find 4 "M3x4" screws? I see there is 1 in the photo, but there should have been 4 in there.

Not seeing any problem? Except maybe that what you are trying to print is so thin that some parts might not be printed at all, giving much bigger printing times when those parts suddenly are big enough to print.

Can you try this: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki/MacOS---Getting-a-proper-log to get a log for me? That might help in finding out why it fails to write the file to SD. (Start Cura in the way explained, generate the "failed to copy" problem and then copy the log)

Yes, but, if the design calls for 3 shells. Then what was the real intention? Printer nozzles go from 0.25 to 0.8mm. So depending on the nozzle, you could end up with a very strong or a weak part if you go by shell count.

Cura.gui.util.openglGui.glButton.draw Look for progressbar and altTooltip

Shell thinkness in combination with the nozzle size controls the shell count. If something says 3 shells, they most likely mean 1.5mm shell thickness, as default nozzle sizes on most machines are 0.5 and not 0.4 as on the UM.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:48050 Zoiets? :-)

The LED will turn on when it tries to turn on the heater. So if the bed does not warm up it's most likely a problem with the heater or the wiring.

10 weeks? We have UM2's on stock as far as I know. Refunds suck. For everyone. There are a lot of parties involved. In case of paypal, it's easy (as the dispute option pretty much puts all the shit at our side, where it should belong IMHO) Now, if you are in Europe, be sure to give support a call, and be nice to them. Then they are more then happy to help you when you are nice to them. I talk to the support girls quite often in the train to work, they have lots of work on their hands. And they cannot do refunds themselves, so refunds take quite a lot of time sadly. (It has to go to finance, finance has to double check if nothing has been shipped, if the payment is correctly done, stuff, then they have to schedule it for refund, which only happens once every 2 weeks when all external payments are done. The the banks also take their sweet time. And that's just what I know, most likely there is more involved) As for ordering from different locations. USA: "North American customers can simply order their 3D printer from Ultimaker.com today to enjoy the quicker and more cost-effective shipment" England: http://www.imakr.com/ is our official reseller I think. (Hallway talk is about some issues with our UK based reseller. Do not know any details. Most likely said too much already :smile: ) Germany: https://www.igo3d.com/ is our official reseller, I know for 100% sure. I know work is being done to have the general shop work better so that it redirect the sales to the proper locations. But this will most likely take a few months before it's ready.

Cura.gui.sceneView.SceneView._viewTarget

White box most likely means the texture is not loading properly. Do not know what you used to edit it, but you might need to disable "progressive PNG" when saving the png file.

I work for Ultimaker these days, so I cannot give you a good compare (as I will be even more biased then the general community members here) But any claim of resolution, including the one we make, is bollocks. It's the theoretical resolution which everyone is advertising with. But there is a difference between theory and practice. I could go into details, but just know that 12.5 or 20 micron X/Y theoretical resolution does not really matter. There are a few things you want to keep an eye on: 1) Availability. Ultimaker has been around for quite a while now compared with other machines. So there is tons of information and parts available. 2) Nozzle size. Bigger nozzles print faster, smaller nozzles print tiny details better. Smaller nozzles do plug easier. 3) Print quality. This has nothing to do with resolution or nozzles. The whole machine&software does this. The best way to judge this is to find 3th party users of the machines. Just about anything has effect on this. Stability of the bed, cooling fans, nozzle shape (including internal nozzle shape) print material used. 4) Material diameter. Some machines use 3mm, others use 1.75mm. Ultimaker uses 3mm. If you might get multiple machines in the future, it would be good to know your options here, as these dimensions don't mix. 5) Software. Just about everyone is using an open-source package for their printer these days. However, ease of use can differ a lot. It's actually the way I ended up at Ultimaker. As I was fed up with the software that Ultimaker supplied 2.5 years ago, and started to write my own. It was so much easier to use that Ultimaker decided to hire me to continue and speed up development. Look up if they have manuals, download the software if you can, see if you understand it, see if it's pre-configured for the printer. 6) CE&FCC. Not everyone cares about this, but CE and FCC is about customer safety. Not having this does not mean that it's not safe. But it's a good judge to see how big the seller is. As at some point you cannot afford the risk to keep selling without these certifications. In case of the Copperhead, those electronics they use will not pass EMF testing, other then that, I do not see any major problems that will prevent them from CE and FCC certification, so no I do not think the machine is a risk. But it does show they are small scale right now.

You might just need to print a bit cooler then. I have no experience with colorfabb PLA. But it's quite temperature critical from what I've heard.

There is also a setting that controls general on/off behavior (on during printing is also an option) so double check that first.

4*10 is not a power of 2.

As far as I understood, TX is a form of PET. So that most likely helps in the FDA approval.

It does in later firmware versions. The idea of this retraction is to remove the filament from the hot-zone so it does not degrade while the hotend is cooling down. And heat from the hotend "creeps" up trough the filament melting more filament inside the teflon, causing problems there.

No glass plate. Different sliderblocks (that do not tension the belts) Especially the lack of a glass plate is going to be a pain. The alu plate bends and scratches easy.

The pause plugin currently doesn't work correctly with USB style printing. Sorry. (This is due to the fact that pause in USB printing bugs out)

Because the gantry on that printer is quite low, I don't think the head-size settings will be much of a use to you. They are used for one-at-a-time printing. And define the area that the head needs to avoid to hit a print while printing another print.

What material are you printing with? This really matters for the raft. Also, most people prefer a brim instead of a raft these days.

It's OpenGL code, and OpenGL likes textures with powers of 2. So when you change the texture size, it's best to keep it at a power of 2. Also, this is the code that does the actual drawing: https://github.com/daid/Cura/blob/SteamEngine/Cura/gui/util/openglHelpers.py#L288

Speed difference will be most noticeable with large amount of infill.