Daid

No, the limit in the menus is set 15C below the limit you configure there. That is the "hard shutoff" limit, it the temperature goes beyond that, it will instantly stop the printer and display an error. This temperature is higher then the operating temperature to account for temperature swings.

Mmm. No, that's not intentional...

It will work up to any temperature you can get it with the stock supply. Which usually is around 110-120C. The 100C specification is because there are variations in beds and some beds won't go as high as others (simple manufacture variance) We seriously pumped up the power on one bed for a test, it got well over 300C without any real problems. But this was with a bench supply running 40V or so.

I recently encountered this bug in the PinkUnicorn development version and fixed it there. It has to do with the collision detection code. It sometimes detects collisions that are not there, or fails to detect a collision. Note that the autoplacement is still funky. It simply works by adding more objects till one object falls out of the printer boundary, and then it removes that one and arranges all objects again. As this also uses the collision function, it might just be bugging out for the same reason as the manual placement. If you want to test if my changes fix this problem, you can overwrite the "Cura/util/polygon.py" file with the latest version from: https://github.com/daid/Cura/blob/SteamEngine/Cura/util/polygon.py

As Zungara say, you installed the wrong firmware. You want the "Ultimaker Original" and then "Heated bed upgrade" box ticked. The Ultimaker Original Plus has different electronics and needs a different firmware. (And the Ulticontroller is exactly one of these things where there are differences between these boards)

Just visited out repair&production center, put an old printer next to a new one. The colors of the LEDs changed a bit, but the brightness is about the same. So you might have a faulty LED strip. They offered to send you a replacement if you want.

I want to fix a few things before I give it to more people. For example, the temperature setting does not do anything yet. Which is one of those really annoying things.

Think I'm the most expert-expert you can get on this field right now. You need the Arduino environment. You need the sources from: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin You need to adjust the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP in Configuration.h You need to modify C:\arduino-1.0.3\libraries\Wire\utility\twi.c (remove the file, or remove the SIGNAL(TWI_vect) function at the end of the file) or else the UM2 firmware will not compile. And that's it. Note that it's hard to damage the UM2, except for the hotend. Which is exactly the part you want to adjust beyond the safe operating range.

Sometimes it requires a few attempts. I have no idea yet why it does not always work. It's been a hard problem to reproduce, as it always works without problems on my laptops.

I have nightly builds for windows and linux. And a heap of missing features. And little time.

gcc-4.7.1-tdm-1

In all honesty, this code has become a bit of a mess the last year or so...

Done in the PinkUnicorn version. So eventually this will be in a release.

Would be nice to know if your problem was solved by the 14.09.1-RC1

I think he means "early production series"

Cura saves the config on exit, so it's not odd that it loses config when it crashes.

Time till 75C is about 5 minutes I think. PSU is 220W. Heated bed is 24V 120W I think. All the same parts as in the UM2.

100% sure the layers will be in the GCode. As the raft is seen as negative layers in the engine code. So most likely this is a problem of the GUI not showing the layers because it miscalculated the layer count. However, a brim is usually a better option then a raft. It uses less plastic, less print time, sticks better on small prints and leaves no surface scars.

Cura on windows has a problem where it internally runs into an error when the GCode file gets bigger then 250MB. I've made a 14.09.1-RC1 which solves this problem, can you check if that version allows you to slice with thinner layers on this model? You can download it from http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

Marlin has write functions, but they are never called in normal operation. You pretty much have to use custom commands or modify the firmware to write to the card. As for SDHC, or SD. SDHC can work, but not all manufacturers implement the SPI protocol of SDHC cards correctly, causing problems with some brands. And even within the same brand there are differences. But the card that comes with the UM2 or UMO is very well tested, so that one should work fine. If you want to know how messy SD card land is. Just look at this compatibility list from another project: http://www.wiibrew.org/wiki/BootMii/SD_Card_Compatibility_List I have a card that gave random problems with Marlin. Made a 1:1 dump, tested the whole SD code in simulation on my PC, no problems then. So I suspect the problem is more with the actual cards then the code.

Yep, same code, nothing changed there.

Notepad might have messed something up... wordpad or notepad++ would have been a better option. As what I see in your notepad does not look like lines, but a big blob of text...

Hahaha, cool hack. Just for future reference. The part is a EC11B15242AE. And the schematics for the controller are at: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1249_Ulticontroller_Board_(x1)

It would be better to have a "pause" switch on the feeder for this. And if you want to sense the bed in a "non contact" way. A analogue capacitive sensor seems to be able to detect the bed trough the glass just fine. But might be tough to calibrate.

Not really. You don't want to know how happy I was when it worked, and how many days it took...