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Daid

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Everything posted by Daid

  1. We tried the E3D, with 1.75mm it worked, with 3mm pla it also jammed. And it was too late in the game to change to 1.75 for the UM2. (Hotend was one of the last bits we finished)
  2. We tried, none of the designs worked reliably with PLA. I think the current UM2 design can be used at much higher temperatures if you replace the teflon with some metal bit, but then PLA will jam up.
  3. You are free to change the firmware if you want. But the 260C is a safety limit we set, as we cannot guarantee that the printer stays operational above those temperatures.
  4. Currently Cura always uses the primary extruder for single color objects. However, if you edit the start.gcode and insert: T1 M109 S{print_temperature} at the front, it will use the 2nd extruder from that point on. (Use T0 for the primary)
  5. The value can also be saved to EEPROM, at which point a firmware upgrade will not change it. But a firmware update should not be required. But, 12.11 could also work with firmwares that had the wrong E-step value in firmware, as the GCode would override it. Cura 13.xx no longer overrides this value per default.
  6. Would be better to keep track of this in the machine instead of Cura.
  7. For the UM2 you do this on the machine. This allows you to print the same gcode file with different materials without slicing again.
  8. Known bug, already reported, fix will be released on monday. This update will also fix the "SD-Card read error" problems, as well as allowing you to save custom material presets in your machine. (Workaround, after selecting ABS, goto "customize" and dial down the temperature to 260C)
  9. I've patched up the default code to have commented M109, M190 commands explaining that you can uncomment those to use them. As this has been asked multiple times. (Basic rule, if multiple people ask for the same feature that is already in the software, then the feature is not accessible enough)
  10. Also, if you want to get notified about these events, you can sign up at our newslettter, it is at the bottom of https://www.ultimaker.com/ I will also be there. Most likely with an updated Cura, to fix some issues in the 13.10 release.
  11. I can live with the consistent misspelling of my name. But I did add a useful bit of information there about cooling which can be quite important if you have extrusion issues. I also added a minor bit of information between brackets. That I learned 2 years ago when I struggled with my own UM kit, and nobody really knew much of anything about printing with the UM. So I did my best to absorb the collective knowledge on PLA printing on the Ultimaker from the people online, and put that knowledge into Cura. But you are free to ignore my advice, after all, what do I know, I'm only human. (0.3mm layer printing comes from RepRaps printing with ABS on a 0.5mm nozzle, which is a whole different world from printing with PLA at 0.4mm nozzle. As the nozzle is 36% smaller in hole area, and ABS and PLA act very different from each other) <- see, in brackets, side info.
  12. None of us are. Logistics handles production and shipping. I'm not telling names of UM people who did not identify themselves online publicly before, it is their personal choice if they want to be linked to UM online. I'm Research&Development, Sander is Sales&Marketing&Support.
  13. Nope, does not have it. (I know, I should update this, but a firmware update requires quite a bit of testing)
  14. At higher extrusion speeds you need to slow down the fans a bit, especially at the lower layers. I'm patching up Cura to support this by default, as it is quite important because the new fan setup can cool the nozzle tip quite a bit when the bed is near the nozzle. (Printing at 0.3mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle is just stupid btw, there is not a single reason to do this, you get worse layers, and you cannot print any faster then 0.2mm layers, in rates of volume/second)
  15. Overhangs and small details will be your enemy. The FDM style printer cannot print in thin air, so it needs something to print on top off, you could pose it so that it does not need support. For example, this model uses swords that touch the base and support the hands/arms: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23365 More examples: http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph Small details, I think you'll lose quite a lot of the smaller details. The printer puts down "lines" that are 0.4mm width and between 0.02 and 0.2mm thick (depending on the resolution, 0.1mm is usually the used setting). And I think the feet and hands will be really troublesome. The thorn up cloths, you can forget those I think, most likely Cura will already ignore those as they are too small to be printed. Finally, the model needs to be manifold and have no self-intersections. (so 1 single big mesh) to get the best results. Edit: Cura crashes pretty hard around 1.5mil polygons. I would aim for no more then 500k, and that's already quite a lot. The layer-view of Cura provides feedback about what is actually printed. Try it on some smaller models first so you know what you are seeing.
  16. The estimate on the screen is a bit of a complex piece of code, and it depends a bit on the GCode file. If you have the UM2 profile, then the UM2 will show the time estimate from Cura in the LCD panel before selecting the file. First, it calculates how long it has been printing already. Next, it takes how far it is in the GCode file, and how long the file is. With this it calculates the total time estimate for how long the print will take. When it has Cura estimate, it will look at how long it has been printing already, if this is less then half the time of the estimate, then it will use this estimate combined with the estimate from the "how far is the print" estimate. And depending on how far it is with printing the more the final estimate will shift towards the estimate from the actual printing time. Or, in pseudo code: printTime = [Time spend printing so far] filePosition = [current read position in the gcode file] fileSize = [total file size of the gcode file] timeEstimateFromCura = [Time estimate from Cura, if in GCode file] totalPrintTimeEstimate = printTime / filePosition * fileSize if printTime < timeEstimateFromCura / 2: f = printTime / (timeEstimateFromCura / 2) finalEstimate = totalPrintTimeEstimate * f + timeEstimateFromCura * (1.0 - f) else: finalEstimate = totalPrintTimeEstimate The "estimate by print time" is off for the first few layers because it's printing slower, so it's not that accurate at the beginning. The CuraEstimate is off due to it not accounting for acceleration. (There is also some odd overflow bug, that causes the display to jump to 6 hours sometimes)
  17. No, I'm saying you should not use USB printing. You should use SD printing. The "on printer" menu allows more tweaking then the USB printing window anyhow. Flat out ignoring me, and the manual, and the workflow we set on the UM2 will not fix that in any way. This means your computer never needs to be attached to the printer, you never can pull out the cable by excident during a 20h print job, it means no software can crash your 20h print job. And the stupid USB-Serial drivers from windows will not crash after 15h in your 20h print job. What I'm saying is that you should see the printer as a machine, like a microwave. Not as a part of your computer. It might feel like an odd step to drag around the SD card, but it's the best technical solution we have right now, and work is begin done to move this towards better solutions like network printers.
  18. Which is why you should give a rats-ass about resolution, you should care about repeatability. Offsets from your home point can be set in software.
  19. He does not have a termocouple, he has a RepRap i3 machine, not an Ultimaker, which uses a different temperature measurement system. You would be better off diagnosing the problem at the RepRap forum, or on the RepRap IRC channel, as the problem is unrelated to Cura.
  20. Sounds like your firmware has wrong E settings, the 12.11 added a default of 868.66 in the steps-per-E value, but this was removed in later versions. This effects extrusion. (In very old firmwares this value had a default of 14)
  21. Look at your printer. Notice the fancy blue screen at the front. Select "Material" from the "Print - Material - Maintenance" menu. Then select "Change" from the "Change - Settings - Back" menu. Holy smoke, it helps in changing your filament. (Connecting the UM2 with USB is not recommended, it's not in the manual, it's not on the feature list)
  22. The normal end-switches have a repeatability of around 2-5 micron. So you might want to get close to that. (The wood in the UM-Original, that's another problem, that can shift 0.5mm by just tugging it)
  23. The UP blue lines not showing is a bug in the visualizer, not the GCode itself. For UM2 Cura emits G10 (retract) and G11 (push back) and the GCode reader in Cura does not understand these yet.
  24. Did you tick the retraction box? And 13.10 contains a new feature where it needs a minimal amount of extrusion between retractions, to prevent flattening the filament by rolling over it too much. The value is quite low, but it could prevent retractions that you would expect to see.
  25. Trust me when I say, we are quite shocked as well with those photos. It should not happen, support is on it to fix the problems. And logistics is on it to find out how the hell this happened. The box is packed in a way that the bed is secured and should not be able to move. Anyhow, we are on it! I know it can be frustrating, it's frustrating for all of us. I wish we could ship them as soon as you order them. Hell, I wish we could ship one to every home in the world. Simmons, you most likely talked to Marrit and Sander, the people doing support right now.
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