gr5

This is easy. First go to menu "preferences" "configure cura...". Among the many checkboxes on the general page, uncheck "Automatically drop models to the build plate". Now you can move your model up with the move tool that you show in your first photo. You can also move the model *down* below the bed and it will chop off the bottom of your model which I find very helpful for parts that are not quite flat on the bottom.

So I just reread your original post. You mention a "repeating pattern". Yet you circled something different in the gcode view above. So which issue do you care about? The "repeating pattern"? Or something else? The repeating pattern is related to the model - you can see it in your model in PREVIEW mode in cura. So the actual STL file doesn't have the ability to represent rectangles - only triangles. So each square in your model is at least 2 triangles. Those triangles come to a point at the vertexes and you have very short line segments there. So your printer is probably slowing down at those double vertexes where 4 squares come together. I circled one of these "double vertexes" where you can have a VERY short line potentially a thousandth of a millimeter long. Something is happening here - it could be the slicer but I'm guessing your firmware (marlin) on your printer doesn't handle very short line segments well. Usually cutting the print speed in half will greatly improve things like this. You could try in cura setting the skin speed half as fast as it is now - and keep the inner speeds not much higher (certainly no more than double). Also it might help to print "outer before inner" (another cura setting).

Well that's very strange. I guess we have incompatible versions of cura. I've done this with other people but never had this problem. Maybe I don't have your machine settings? I don't think that's it - I've done this with people who had all manner of printers (that I never even heard of) and it always seems to work. Well I: 1) Sliced your model with default (0.2 layer) settings and I didn't see the same thing you saw when reloading the gcode file. I saw it ever so slightly but not nearly to the extent you see it. 2) I loaded your gcode file into cura and I see exactly what you are talking about. My first thought is that this is just a rounding error as the amounts of extrusion on these tiny lengths are rounded to the nearest 5th decimal (1/100,000 of a mm) - here's a line from your gcode - the E value G1 X65.119 Y64.052 E0.03559 But 0.00001mm should be good enough to get a good line width. 3) So I loaded your gcode into a different (better) viewer (repetier host) and found the exact gcodes you were talking about and loaded them into excel. You can search your gcode file for "3317.777" to find the spot I mean. Then I loaded these gcodes into excel and used simple math to find the distance the print head moved and the extruder moved and took the ratio and it was the same within 1% for every segment. So the issue is with the crappy crua gcode viewer. Not the gcode itself.

Nozzle width affects line width. It's kind of background information that supplies the formulas that choose line width. If you set the line width yourself it doesn't matter what cura thinks the nozzle size is. So for example if you set the line width to .25mm and have a 1mm nozzle chosen the 1mm nozzle information is completely ignored. Cura will create gcodes that rotate the extruder the exact amount for a 0.25mm line width. It does this by calculating the volume of a given line segment to be printed. The volume is the line width times the layer height times the length. That's the volume. it has nothing to do with nozzle diameter. Also if you set 0.25mm line width it will place walls 0.25mm apart (and top/bottom skin lines will be 0.25mm apart). The whole "nozzle diameter" setting is basically ignored by the cura engine (the actual slicer) and only used in the gui to set line width to a reasonable value.

Wait - I think I misunderstood you. When you titled this "UM2 + 1.75mm Filament" I assumed you had the UM2 +. But now I think you meant "UM2 and 1.75mm filament" There's a huge difference. The "plus" feeder (which is white) can handle 1.75mm filament just fine. The original feeder (which is black) can not. If you have the original feeder (black) then you can get it to grip slightly tighter by loosening the 4 screws and pushing the motor one way and the black casing the other way and retightening the 4 screws while holding it like that. That will help quite a bit. But it's still not really enough. But definitely try this! You could get a bondtech QR feeder (and make sure it's 1.75 version - they will make a custom 1.75 version if they don't offer it in their store) or you could get a "plus" upgrade from ultimaker which is quite expensive or you could try a plus upgrade from a chinese 3rd party on aliexpress which may or may not work at all but is cheap. For the black feeder and white feeder, the tension doesn't make much (or any) difference on how thin the feeder will go. Both feeders hit a "stop" and can't accept filament thinner than a certain amount. The white (plus) feeder can handle 1.75mm filament just fine.

I see the 3mf files but when I opened them in cura I just got your model. No settings. I just tried again. In cura in the top left choose "File". Then choose "save...". File type should mention "project".

There are too many different versions of cura. I have a custom version that probably only 100 people use (the MB version, the burtoogle version). Each version has different tweaks to the profiles. Ultimaker makes changes. Plus it matters what kind of printer you have. I probably don't have your machine settings. It's just much easier if you could save your project file please. If I'm going to spend 30 minutes playing around I want to start with your exact settings. The best way by far is to get a project file. There are other people on this forum I can get interested in your issue if I can't figure it out but not without your project file (well I could give it a shot and create one but I'd rather you do it).

Okay, now that I see the image I'm intrigued. Unfortunately, you did not post the project file (which is also .3mf). In cura choose "file" "save...". This file will contain your printer settings, your profile, your overridden settings, your STL file, how you scaled it and positioned it, everything I need to duplicate what you did and look at the options chosen. Such as "coasting" and "wipe" which are the 2 I will be looking at initially.

While in PREVIEW mode (near the top of the screen), just below that it should show the 2 nozzles/cores. click on that bar and a 2 tab small window should pop up. select the second tab and make sure it is enabled. Select the first tab and make sure enabled is *not* checked. I think that will help.

This is fantastic but I have to comment on the whole "raft" thing. Raft is an old technology that you should avoid. Getting parts to stick is a complicated subject but one which you should be able to overcome without raft unless you have a 1st generation reprap. I explain how to get your part to stick well to the print bed here. It's a long video (20 minutes) but that is because it's packed with information:

I was talking about slicer infill. Again - try them all - it will take you all of 3 minutes to select each one, hit slice, and see the result.

@voss008 - your screen shots didn't show up in the forum. Could you please try again? Something about the process you did... well it didn't work. It worked okay for your original post - maybe you can do whatever you did there? Ideally you could go back and edit your posts and fix them.

"gyroid" is a good choice. Many of the patterns are *not* permeable and many are. Just toggle through them - it's pretty obvious which are which (pick one - slice it - look at the result in PREVIEW mode and scroll through the layers).

Beim ABS müssen Sie sich nicht um heiße Umgebungsluft kümmern. Ich habe PLA angenommen. Wenn Sie die gleiche Filamentstelle 10 oder 20 Mal zurückziehen, kann dies zu stark abschleifen. Besonders wenn der Anleger zu eng ist. Cura hat eine Funktion zur Reduzierung von Rückzügen. Ich weiß nicht, ob Sie zu viele Retraktionen haben - Sie müssten sich den Gcode ansehen. Ich bin mir wirklich nicht sicher, mit welchem Problem Sie konfrontiert sind. Sie können aber auch versuchen, langsamer zu drucken - halbe Geschwindigkeit - und prüfen, ob dies hilfreich ist. Sie können dies im TUNE-Menü tun. Haben Sie den Feederdruck gesenkt und es erneut versucht?

Dies ist ein deutscher Raum, also sollten wir uns an Deutsch halten. Dreht sich der hintere Lüfter am Druckkopf? (dritter Fan). Sobald die Druckerdüse über 60 ° C steigt, sollte sie sich drehen. Wenn es sich nicht dreht, können Sie davon ausgehen, dass der Drucker die ersten 10 oder 30 Minuten einwandfrei arbeitet und dann nicht mehr extrudiert. Wenn Sie den Kopf wieder zusammensetzen, hat sich der Lüfter möglicherweise verklemmt oder der Stecker ist abgezogen. Das Teil sollte nicht PEEK sein. Es sollte PTFE sein. Woher hast du den weißen Teil? Haben Sie den Innendurchmesser mit einem Filament gemessen? Hat Ihr Teil auch eine Menge Retraktionen? Bitte versuchen Sie, den Druck auf Ihren Feeder zu reduzieren. Durch Erhöhen des Drucks funktioniert es mit dünnerem Filament nicht besser. Ist es auch möglich, dass sich der knorrige Ärmel an Ihrer Zuführung gelöst hat? Ich vermute, Sie können dies sehen, wenn Sie während des Druckvorgangs in den Einzug schauen. Auch was Sie beschreiben, ist ein häufiges Symptom für heiße Umgebungsluft (> 25 ° C). Die Zuführung wird mit der Zeit heißer und ist schließlich heiß genug, um das Filament in der Zuführung zu erweichen.

Entschuldigung für mein Deutsch, da ich Google Übersetzer verwende. Haben Sie ein 1,75-mm-PTFE-Teil von 3dsolex erhalten? Es hat ein Loch mit 2 mm Durchmesser. Sie müssen den Bowden nicht ersetzen. Der "+" - Einzug (weiß) am UM2 funktioniert einwandfrei. Die Spannung nicht festziehen. Wenn irgendetwas vielleicht die Spannung lösen. Wenn Sie zu viele Retraktionen haben, kann das Filament zermahlen werden. Welchen Slicer und welche Version verwenden Sie? Es ist schwierig, den Filamentdurchmesser in Cura einzustellen. Wenn Sie es jedoch falsch gemacht haben, würden Sie auf der zweiten Schicht mit einer starken Unterextrusion rechnen. - George

The setting you are looking for is "line width". Set that to 0.25 for a 0.25mm nozzle. Make sure *all* the line widths (there's several of them) are the same.

This is interesting. Please post the 3mf file (do file save) so other's can see exactly your model and settings and such.

Something is wrong - there shouldn't be so much green - so much wall. It's as though you have the "shell" setting set to a huge number like 10mm or bigger. If tinkergnome's suggestion doesn't work, please save your project and post it somewhere. Do "file" "save". This will save your printer settings, your profile, your STL file your setting overrides, where you positioned the STL file. Everything. Then I can (or someone else) can open this 3mf file and play around with the settings.

That yellow is "top/bottom" as shown in the key. You can disable top/bottom in cura settings. Set it to 0. What about if you slide up much higher on the layer slider?

I STRONGLY doubt UM didn't test it at the factory. Much more likely these problems occurred in shipping. It's amazing how badly packages can be treated by DHL. I've seen printers that arrive at customers as obvious parallelograms instead of box shape.

Don't waste your time printing. In cura you want to select "PREVIEW" near the top of cura. After slicing use the slider on the right side and you can check each layer (you can check all the layers in under a second). This will show you what cura plans to print. I suspect the model has bad normals. So I would check or uncheck all the "mesh fixes" options in cura and hopefully one of those will fix your issue. Or maybe you are setting infill percentage on the wrong nozzle. If you can't figure it out please supply screenshots showing the issue. Never print anything without it looking correct in PREVIEW first.

Wait - so one job prints fine and the next not so well with no changes to profile or settings or filament? If that's true then you need to talk to wanhao experts but I can think of one explanation that would affect all bowden printers and that is excess retractions. What is your retraction distance? I've seen prints where there were over a kilometer of retractions in a single print (yes, truly). Even a small print can fail if you have more than about 10 or 20 retractions on the same spot of filament. You can reduce retractions if you play with cura settings. This is one of about 20 possibilities on a Ultimaker printer. I don't know anything about wanhao printers.

I would test the gcode to be sure - absolutely sure if it's assuming 3mm versus 1.75mm. So for example you can look at these 2 gcodes: G1 X123.7 Y100.0 E5.000 G1 X133.7 y103.0 E5.010 Now you can find the diff in X (10mm exactly) and the diff in y (3mm) and find the hypoteneuse (square root of the sum of the squares) and determine the length. The height is your layer height, the width is "line width" you specified in cura. Multiply those 3 values to get the volume of plastic needed for that. Now take the difference in E values (here it's 0.01mm). Now figure out the volume that .01mm of linear filament creates for 2.85 versus 1.75 filament and see which of those matches the expected volume. (volume of cylinder is area of cross section times length. Area of cross section is 2 pi r squared) That's what I meant by "do the math".

I find that increasing flow over 110% is a losing situation but if 250% truly helps a lot then you are probably right - it is slicing for the wrong filament diameter. The actual ratio is 265% (1.75 versus 2.85 filament) so try that. I would look at a line segment in the gcode and multiply it out and see if the gcode is wrong. Anyway if you want to set to 1.75 filament you have to configure BOTH the printer and the filament. Cura has lots of 2.85mm (or 3mm) filament in it's database so you have to be careful to use 1.75mm filament profiles in cura.