gr5

no, sticker should be on top so that you can read it. It's out of the print area so there's no reason not to put it on top.

So the permission denied is a huge clue. Does that folder exist? Does that file exist? If so, try to delete it. Maybe there is a cura running that you can't see but is hanging onto that file. Check for a process named cura. If you *can* delete the file then it's probably not because some other process is running. Could the disk be full? Make sure there is a GB of space or so available. A full disk would be one way to get this exact error. Uninstall is not the best - better to delete that whole roaming/cura folder (while cura is not running) and then launch cura again (it will create that folder structure from scratch).

You can either: 1) Make the bottom layer closer to 0.3 2) Make it 0.1 but use autolevel and adjust the 3 screws at the start of the print... EVERY TIME. Make sure you unscrew the 3 screws before the next print because if you don't it will just get tighter and tighter with each print. 3) Go manual level and figure out why manual level isn't working. That's it. That's the only 3 choices as I see it. #3 is the only possible bug at this point.

Check the Z switch - sometimes something gets in there. Lift the bed very high and look for a rectangular hole against the rear wall a little left of the Z screw. That's where the Z switch is - if some bit of plastic gets in there then both manual and autoleveling will be off - it can easily be off a few mm. Clean that all out - maybe turn your printer upside down or blow some compressed air in there. it's hard to see in there but you can easily feel the metal switch lever with your finger and hear it click when you push down. Look up under the bed and you can see the screw hanging down that clicks that switch - make sure it isn't all floppy and loose. Try a cura connect reset - it only takes about 30 seconds. It doesn't change any calibration values or anything like that. It's kind of a be all end all "fix lots of bad things" feature. What are you looking for? Anything in the gcode with a Z. But it's all good. Except for one thing: Your initial layer height is 0.1mm. So the printer auto levels low on purpose because it's expecting the bottom layer to be 0.27mm thick so it levels about 0.1 low to have good squish so the bottom layer sticks well. But if you are printing first layer at 0.1 then it will print the first layer touching the glass. Which is fine if you had done a manual level but you are doing "active levelling". Regarding the manual level - I just think maybe you are doing something wrong in the procedure. Maybe you could video the procedure starting

Alternatively you can use an older version of cura and put a gray circle under that circle of dots. A solid gray background but not rectangular - circular. And set the base thickness to zero.

When you do the manual leveling, do you turn the knob on the front of the printer (not one of the 3 leveling screws) when you level the rear spot? And do you turn the front leveling screws for the front two locations? By the way, unless you change the 3 screws a *lot* you can just skip over the whole "1mm" steps. Are you sure you don't have a Z offset plugin? Can you post the first chunk of gcode? About 50 lines - up until where it sets Z for the bottom layer (typically 0.27mm) and then starts printing the skirt or brim.

Try a cura connect reset. It actually resets a whole tone of different things. I'm most concerned about your manual leveling issue.

As far as I know the firmware is fine. Did you do the things mentioned above? Including: 1) Did you check those 2 wires? 2) Did you set spacing to 14mm (or looser - you need the bed springs looser than the core springs)? Some core's have a stronger spring than others. Strong is good. 3) Did you watch to see how far the core nozzle moves up during active leveling? It should just be maybe 0.3mm (or less). 4) Did you run the sensor test? I forget what else was mentioned above.

The blob was probably because you didn't do the G92 and the newer code had a higher E value so it overextruded right at the switchover.

When I merge 2 gcodes what I do is a G92 command in between. Like this . . G0 X333 Y333 E1013.7 G92 E871.3 #ADDED between G0 X333 Y334 E871.3 . . I add the G92 which resets the E position and I make it the same value as the first E value in the pasted code (or I back off a tiny bit - I could have done E871.2) G92 resets the position of any axis listed to the value in the gcode. It doesn't actually move any servos - just changes the current position indicator inside the printer.

What cad software did you use? Well your model has some problems. Someone had this very issue in the last 2 weeks and solved it by playing with the mesh options. Go to the mesh options and click the gear and make them all visible. I think he removed "overlapping volumes" (unchecked)? Alternatively you can fix the problems in cad or you can put this through the web based netfabb repair service which is free but you have to create an account.

Set the base thickness to zero. I guess you are making a lithopane?

What cad software are you using? There appears to be some stuff off to the left in your CAD software. If this is design spark manager then go into the "structure" tab and look for anything that isn't a solid. As you click on each thing in the structure it highlights it. Delete (or at least hide) anything you don't want to print. If this is sketchup then get rid of the man or woman that is there by default. If you can't figure out then a quick solution is to use netfabb repair service (google it). It's free but you have to create an account.

You probably already know this but "top" in cura has a specific meaning. If you are printing a cube then it matches the normal definition: the top layer is all top skin. But if you have say a pyramid then *every* layer has some top skin out near the edges of the pyramid. A sphere has a ring of top skin on every layer of the top half of the sphere and a ring of bottom skin on every layer of the bottom half of the sphere.

The "E" value is an absolute position - not relative position. "E1187.42799" means you have extruded 1.187428 meters of filament since you started the print (actually after so many meters it resets back to 0 as Marlin can't handle numbers over some value). So just like X100 means X is at 100mm, E100 means the extruder is at 100mm. It's a position. Not an amount to extrude (which would be a relative value). So just looking at one E value doesn't help you much. You have to subtract 2 E values.

I can see you used sketchup. So all the white walls (for example most surfaces in the bottom picture) are good. All the gray walls are bad. Right click on all of those and choose "reverse faces". This color (white versus gray) tells the STL file which part of the model is *inside* (solid) and which is outside (air). Note that most of the surfaces in the upper sketchup picture need reversing. More info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

The theory was that because the glass isn't perfectly flat - if you assume it has 0.1mm of vertical variation across the bed, then the bottom layer, if thicker than the variation, should be able to fill in the valleys and stay thin at the peaks (valleys and peaks of the glass bed). In practice there is some pressure coming out of the nozzle and it can push down a bit on the bed and ride up and down the valleys and hills. So even a layer height of 0.1mm works pretty well for the bottom layer. I use the default bottom layer height but I have a friend who uses 0.1 for the bottom layer every time and he claims it works much better. Either way works fine as far as I'm concerned.

Well it's definitely worth it to buy a replacement olimex from fbrc8 if you decide the problem is the olimex board.

Let us know what you learn. #1 was a known problem so you can probably get a replacement for free if that is the issue. If you didn't buy this from a reseller you can get parts and tech support from fbrc8.com which is where your UM2 printer was assembled if you live in USA.

1) The most common error I think is that the gear that is on the shaft of the stepper slides off the shaft until it no longer meshes with the next gear. Or other gearing issues. Verify that the stepper is truly not moving and not making sounds (the noise is quite obvious when in MOVE mode if I remember right). You can remove the top and bottom screw of the feeder without the stepper falling and you can learn a lot quickly. Careful that the spring doesn't go flying - maybe set tension to lowest value (marker at top) https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder 2) Wires could be bad. Especially check that the extruder (or something) is plugged into the extruder connector. The board has 2 connectors for 2 extruders and make sure it's plugged into the lower numbered extruder (e.g. E0 or if there is an E2 then plugged into E1). 3) If those pass then it's probably the controller board - stepper motors just don't fail - I mean I suppose it's possible but I've never heard of such a thing. Plug it into the X axis connector to be sure and try to move it that way through homing procedure. If E stepper still won't move then check wiring again - maybe wire is pinched under cover and broke or broke at the stepper housing. 4) Finally - last resort - you need a new controller board.

Done. I tagged it and also changed the title.

So you think he needs a new olimex board? @Sergio1288 - how old is your printer? Might it still be under warranty?

By the way, if you tighten those set screws you want to really tighten them HARD. If you are using an angle allen wrench it should hurt your fingers when using the torque of the short part of the L. The shaft should actually twist a bit.

What do you think @fbrc8-erin? (Erin has fixed many of these)

Often it is the power brick. These things are way too complicated and have too many parts that can break (reminiscing about the good old days when power supplies were simple). I actually had a power brick that if I unplugged it from power for a few hours it would come back to life. A *different* power brick (both for Ultimaker printers) died for 24 hours - still wouldn't work. Threw it in a box for a year. Now it works fine!!