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Okay I think your infill speed is probably higher than your normal printing speed. Check all the printing speeds. Make sure they are all the same.

I would set the support placement setting to "touching buildplate" only.

G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level G80 ; mesh bed leveling These lines are prusa specific and I'm not sure if they are correct. The rest is fine. Assuming you print through USB: 1) If you print the exact same gcode file through repetier does it print fine? 2) If you slice with repetier and print with cura does it print fine? Assuming you print through SD card: 3) Please post the first 40 lines of gcode from a repetier slicing of any stl file.

So most problems people have with CPE occur on the bottom layer and your bottom layer is fine. I don't think this is a CPE issue but it's hard (impossible?) to guess what went wrong from the photo. I'm thinking this is a CAD/Slicing issue. Did you look at the part carefully in preview mode? It would be helpful to show the layer where things go bad in preview mode please. My guess is that you have a few layers of air where cura just skips a few layers and then starts printing over air. Is that possible? If I'm completely off then we need more information about what is happening here. So in summary - this doesn't look like a CPE issue but a model with errors. Actually I recommend getting the plugin that lets you check the mesh for errors.

You can makes some really really nice GT2 pulleys very easily in openSCAD which is free, open source, and light weight. You won't have to learn openSCAD much since you won't be desigining in there - just using it to make pulleys. I'm not certain where the library came from but here are some major hints at the top of the file: // Parametric Pulley with multiple belt profiles // by droftarts January 2012 // Based on pulleys by: // http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11256 by me! // https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel by Josef Prusa // http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104 by GilesBathgate // http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2079 by nophead You can set things like number of teeth, pulley type (you want profile=12), shaft diameter and many others. I've made several GT2 pulleys and right now am only using one of them with 200 teeth but these fit the belts very nicely and should work fine at a mere 40 teeth. Maybe less. Maybe only 20?

Well you can change the model so the round holes for the magnets aren't quite round -the cylindrical hole could have star like projections into the model where you can add glue/epoxy. Or you can use your drill as you said earlier to drill holes in the magnet cylinder so the epoxy can flow there.

Try it. See what happens. Follow my directions above. You can change all kinds of things in certain areas of your prints. "shell" is on the list of things you can change so try it. It only takes 2 minutes to try it and even if it doesn't work you will learn about a LOT of new tricks you can do with Cura. It's a very powerful feature.

I like to clean off the PVA with hot water and a plastic scrubber thing - built into one side of my kitchen sponges. Then I clean with window cleaner using the same process as for windows.

Really? The setting is there - I didn't try it. You can't turn off shell in certain areas?

Just to be clear - the gyroid is for porousness to spread the glue. Not for strength, right? So in cura you can wall thickness to zero. That should to it. Double check that the wall lines also ends up being zero automatically. You might want to up your infill percentage - really not sure. but if you do that you will lose the outer shell as well and I assume you need that to keep the epoxy in. SO INSTEAD you want to remove walls *only* where magnet(s) go. So: 1) Make sure in "prepare/preferences/config cura" you have "ensure models are kept apart" unchecked. 2) add a cube (one for each magnet) to your build plate, right click on it, on left side of screen click the "per model setting" icon and change the cube to "modify settings for overlap of other models". Then select the settigs and choose anything related to walls. Then modify "wall thickness" and "wall line count" to be zero. Now position this cube in the area where the magnet will go. When positioning this "cube" you can scale the x,y,z axes independently. You can position it *above* the build plate a bit. You might want to add a cylinder to your build plate instead of a cube to get more accurate control.

Okay so I heard about this specific problem where it checks well above the glass. The answer was to do some kind of reset but forget which - I think it was "reset to factory settings". Does that option even exist? Also try "cura connect reset" which is much less invasive (doesn't throw away calibration stuff) but it does fix quite a few problems. I think it was "reset to factory" and note that afterwards I think you have to recalibrate the core-change switch.

Well if you figure out exactly where the limit is (e.g. if it's 360C) then you can grep (search) all the json files with a single command for that number. I'll do the search for you if you figure out where the limit is exactly.

Well a quick work around is to realize that the bed temp only appears once in the gcode and it's near the top (first 40 or so lines of gcode). So you could set the temp to 197 and then search for that in the gcode and fix it. gcode is pretty easy for humans to read. I'm not sure where this limit is - it's most likely in one of the json files but there are hundreds of these files.

Those settings are good. I don't think it's cura. You can look at the gcode and look at the Y values and make sure they go no where close to 220. For example slice a tiny 3mm cube. To keep it extra simple set infill to 0% and shell to just one pass. Set layer height to 1mm so you only get 3 layers. All the Y values should be very very close to 110 (well except for initial purge). I'm wondering if your Y axis is slipping - I would retighten all the set screws on the pulleys connected to the Y stepper. Make it tight as hell. The tool should probably twist a bit - really really tight. Also see if you can adjust the acceleration for the Y stepper. Oh! Make sure "acceleration control" and "jerk control" are disabled in cura!! Anyway your Y axis is very massive in comparison to the X as you are moving the entire build platform. So that axis needs a much lower acceleration and jerk value.

I'm sorry, I can't see a single number or word in that image except the bold parts. Can you post a slightly larger image?

What kind of printer is this - every printer has specific issues. For example the Ultimaker 2 (but not original, or UM3 nor S5, nor S3) has something called "volumetric" mode and also it allows you to set the filament diameter to any value. If you set the filament diameter to 10mm by accident it would do what you describe. Somewhat. I'd like to see the first 50 or so lines of gcode as it may be setting the current anyway - I just want to be really sure it doesn't set the current. Okay another idea - something is wrong with the power supply. Typically the servos and heaters run off somwhere from 12V to 24V (could be for example 19V). If that voltage dips from 24V to 7V the circuit board will barely notice as it regulates that down to 5V anyway. But the steppers will get weak. So when everything is going at once the stepper may be weak. Particularly if you have a bed heater. Another idea - on UM2 and newer ultimaker printers there is a metal cover and the stepper cable can get caught and pinched under that cable and do weird things if the wire is exposed through the insulation.

plus 100 for this one. I feel like Ultimaker could save millions of man hours on this one (assuming there are a million S5 and S3 printers out there, he he). It would save their own employees significant time as well.

1) You can google "gcode to mesh converter" or "gcode to stl converter". It's a pretty ugly process. I don't recommend it. Your part will look very ugly and rough. 2) You can contact the "previous colleague". He'll probably say something like - "it's in the git repository!" or "I left it in 15 locations so you couldn't miss it" or something like that. 3) You can create the part from scratch again in CAD. It's good practice - each time I use CAD I get better at it. And faster. It's time well spent. 4) As a stop gap measure you can just print it on the UM2 until you do one of the steps above.

What kind of printer do you have? Generally, with normal xyz printers (maybe 98% of printers) you have 0,0 in the front left corner. For delta printers (if you aren't sure then you don't have one - or google it) 0,0 is in the center of the print bed. In the machine settings you can check or uncheck the box to say if you want it in the center or in the corner. It sounds like you have the box backwards. Or alternatively maybe you have the X and Y dimensions backwards. X is left to right and Y is front to back. Z is vertical height. Also for delta printers you typically tell cura the *diameter* of the print bed. Not the X and Y values.

That's not good. That's the most telling part. Three totally different possibilities: 1) Are you sure something isn't slipping on the shaft such that the stepper is fine but whatever is connected to the shaft is not? 2) There are gcodes that set current levels but that is different for different printers. What kind of printer is this? 3) The controller board may be overheating. Did you alter airflow? Overheating stepper drivers automatically cut out (but so fast it's hard to tell what is going on as they can turn on and off a few times per second when overheating).

By the way, after a print is done it lets the head cool an exact amount and then retracts the filament. This is to get to the right temperature so that the filament is both not-stuck in the head in case you want to change cores, but also cool enough so you don't get annoying strings in the bowden which can cause problems. But this cooldown is short - maybe 30 seconds. Not so bad.

On the UM3 and S5 you can do #1. I'm 90% sure it's the same on the S3. There is a lever on the feeder. Just lift it all the way up and then you can slide out one filament and slide in another. Then you should be able to go to the menu where you can see the materials and select the left or right material then the "..." button in upper right corner and tell the printer what the new material is (if you changed for example from pla to nylon). Then I usually, in that same "..." menu choose "move material" which heats the nozzle back up and lets you spin the knob to extrude material to clear out all the old material. If the replaced material is higher temp then I do the "move material" first to clear it all out at the higher temperature before telling the printer that it now has the new material.

If you want a thick shell and then hollow then it is easy. Just set infill % to zero. But if you want infill between the outer shell and this new shell then you need to create the inner empty area in CAD.

So for parts with say 45 degree overhangs - imagine the prow of a boat - where the outer wall is tilted outward at the tip of the bow. On parts like that you get raised edges - as it prints the tip of the bow the plastic is still hot and pulling like a liquid rubber band and it pulls the tip up and later the nozzle can hit that as it can stick up a full mm sometimes. It hits it HARD. But if you do everything right the part should stay on the bed and the steppers should still not lose a step. I mean it's like you can hit that part with your hand hard enough to slide the printer a few cm - that hard (it doesn't slide of course is the head is pushing one way and the bed is pushing back). So: 1) Even if it hits quite hard it shouldn't lose steps. 2) You don't have any overhangs in that part at all - so I don't know why it would hit. Unless you are printing the infill quite fast - say 70mm/sec or faster? Yes changing the infill pattern could do this but the basic problem of hitting infill has more to do with printing too fast and with not enough cooling (fan - you can never have too much fan with PLA - you could add a desk fan or something blowing air into the printer). So maybe slow down the infill but even so, your printer can do better. Tighten the hell out of the 2 set screws on the short belt on the Y axis. If you have a long hex driver you don't have to remove the cover. If you don't have a long hex driver you will have to remove that corner cover (2 screws I think) to get at the stepper. You might even have to remove the stepper. But this is worth the trouble.

Contact your reseller. In your situation I'm pretty sure they are the only ones who will help you. There is a procedure. They have the procedure. If you had any other model (UM3, S3) this would be easier.