gr5

This is easy to fix - you can calibrate the location of where the switch goes into the core switcher thing. It's in the menu system somewhere. It shouldn't be hard to find.

This is expected behavior. PVA sticks well to Nylon but not as well to PLA. There is a feature in cura called "horizontal expansion" which makes it so the PVA can also stick to the bed and gives you good results. Note that PLA on top of PVA works MUCH better than the other way around. So I recommend for this print, turn off brim (you don't need it for such a small part) and make sure "horizontal expansion" is set to 3mm (the default) for the PVA/support material.

Is this a UM2 or UMO? If so then I would connect it to a computer with USB cable and load pronterface which tells you the state of all switches. You can read back the values of the switches and then move them with your finger. This tests completely from switch to arduino. Pronterface is free and located here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

pva just doesn't stick very well to pla. maybe you can do a tiny brim in pla and then the "horizontal expansion" setting for cura defaults to 3mm and maybe that's far enough so the pva can also touch the glass? If not maybe increase from 3mm to larger? Just some ideas. Your part doesn't look particularly large so you shouldn't need brim. There are other techniques almost as good to make it "stick like hell":

I don't think that's cura. Maybe it's just printing too fast such that pressure is high in the nozzle when it switches to the other head? Or maybe your filament is less viscous than Ultimaker filament and you need to lower the temperature more? Also note that white filament seems to drip/leak more than other colors.

Some people say normal force to move UMO head is "very easy". some say "quite a bit of force". The best way to describe it is you should be able to push the head in one axis with just two finger: one finger on each block on either side of the head. the force is typically almost enough to slide the printer around on a table but usually not that bad. It could be your friction is fine and you need instead to tighten the setscrew holding the pulley to the motor. All the setscrews need extreme tightening -- enough where you are getting scared you will break something (screwdriver or setscrew). Or it could be the endcaps as you mentioned or many other things.

If you are using pliers or large handeled hex drivers then yes you can damage things. But if you are using an "L" shaped hex wrench and if you push the wrench all the way in then, "No, you can't hurt it". Not unless your fingers are strong enough that can hang from a ledge by just the last part of your finger tips. I was also afraid I would break something but I have 5 printers and have done this maybe 100 times. As long as you use just your fingers and an L wrench you will be fine. This tool can break things:

I don't think you need to tighten the straps. You just need to tighten the pulleys. The pulleys are not supposed to rotate on their shafts - they are supposed to be attached to the shaft. There is a small screw to connect them together. If that screw isn't tight enough then the pulley slips a tiny amount and can cause "layer shifting". I'm not sure that you even have layer shifting. There is no photo above that shows layer shifting. It usually looks like this. Actually I should have you just read this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted It's for the um2 but the pulleys are identical between um2 and um3.

>Note that the letters are not fully formed. This is exactly what I thought you meant but thanks for posting the picture. Now we are all sure that we are talking about the same thing. Even if you only have a .4mm nozzle - try entering .3mm in cura just to see what happens as a quick experiment. If you have cura 2.X then enter this in the "line_width" parameter. If you have cura 15.X or older then enter this in both nozzle width *and* shell width. In fact shell width is more important for cura 15.X and nozzle is sometimes ignored (it's complicated). Please just do this experiment and look in layer view. Don't actually print it. A .4mm nozzle can print "okay" down to about .3mm. A .25mm nozzle can print similarly smaller.

>pushed too far it will make a big blob on the print (ruining it) Yikes - I didn't think of that. One could remove the bowden at the head, mark it with a knife or pen, remove it completely, line it up with the new filament and mark the new filament in the same spot then insert new filament until line is at the top of the head. But still... I'm not sure you have to do it before the nozzle cools as I think the filament is in the cold region anyway if it is doing a significant retraction before pausing.

Look where the cable connects to the heated bed. There are 4 screws. That part often has a bad solder connection - especially since you removed it from the old bed to the new. I bet you just need to reheat the solder to let it flow again. Here is an old picture someone posted where you can see the 4 solder pads:

Are you sure the nozzle scratched the glass? Brass is MUCH softer than glass. Even steel is softer than glass and shouldn't scratch it normally. Could it instead be a very very thin layer of pla?

Is the offset only in X? or only in Y? I can't tell. But those offset squares could be caused by whatever they are sitting on moving. or it could be a slip in X or Y. I would tighten the pulleys as this is a very common problem and so easy to fix. Figure out which axis is slipping and only tighten those pulleys. You need a 2mm hex and you need to tighten the hell out of those set screws - enough to twist the metal Enough to cause pain in your fingers. With bare fingers and L shape go as hard as you can without injuring yourself. You have to get the pulleys on the long belts but more importantly the 2 pulleys connected to the short belts which means the pulley at the motor. That is the hardest to get to but also the most likely problem. You might even have to remove the stepper briefly to get to that pulley. I have not done this yet on my UM3 (only UM2 and UMO). On UM2 you sometimes have to remove the corner cover (2 screws hold it in place) and then the stepper is exposed. Then you can possibly tighten the pulley at that point or remove the 4 screws holding the motor in place and tighten pulley set screw and put the motor back in place pushing down on the motor to keep that short belt tight when you tighten the 4 screws the final turns.

Furthermore - there is a feature in cura in the "repair model" section or advanced section or something like that which can fill in holes sometimes made in sketchup. You can unselect that. Or fix the model by making sure all surfaces in sketchup are "outside" and not "inside". If you use the default gray/white two color surface make sure all the white is on the outside and gray on the inside in the region of the hole that is filled in (around the edges of that hole). In sketchup you can right click on a surface and reverse the faces. Keep in mind that with "real" cad software you don't have to tell it what is inside and what is outside.

You have to remove either end of the bowden when you get that. Remove the little c clip and then PUSH DOWN on the outer ring while lifting firmly on the bowden. Make sure the outer ring moves down a bit before pulling on the bowden - push quite hard - maybe use pliers if it doesn't move down. It's safer to do it at the feeder end although in my experience with um2 one has to do it on the head end more often. I would mark the bowden with a sharpie or a knife for future reference so when you reinsert it then you can verify that it's all the way in. When inserting again push DOWN on the outer ring, then push down on the bowden, then insert clip while still pushing down on the bowden. That white bowden holder ring thing has 4 blades inside. Metal blades. You can see the mark they make on the bowden. If you ruin your bowden you can buy more at 3dsolex.com. Or Ultimaker.

If you do decide to junk it, I'll buy it off you, repair it myself, and resell it.

First get it out of the head. Can you cut the PVA above the metal tube so you can slide the core out? I would then try soaking just the tip for several days. Inserting a metal wire every few hours to remove a tiny amount of pva (I have free nozzle cleaner tools that would help with this). Actually I would take it all apart. Send me a personal email at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com and I'll send you instructions on taking the nozzle off without breaking the core (it is extremely easy to destroy the core - you need to be careful but the techniques are simple).

So there are 3 errors. I'm not sure which 2 you get. Any of the 4 will halt a print. 1 is bed related. 2 are nozzle related. here they are: ultimaker.com/ER01 Temp sensor ultimaker.com/ER02 Temp sensor BED ultimaker.com/ER03 Heater error The heater error is when it doesn't heat up fast enough. The first 2 errors are never the heaters fault. You can get the temp sensor errors if your printer is below freezing temperatures when you turn it on (a more common problem than I would have thought - some people print in their cold garage). Anyway if you get the first 2 errors there is absolutely no reason to touch the heater. It's common for these sensors to fail above around 200C. You can't solder them because solder melts at these temps (lead solder 250C, lead free solder about 200C) so they are crimped. Some people have very carefully dremeled the temp sensor apart and repaired. The newer temp sensors from 3dsolex and Ultimaker are just much more reliable than the ones from 2 years ago. I think you should just "bite the bullet" and get a new temp sensor. The temp sensor on the bed is completely different. It's soldered in. It's very very rare for that to fail - I mean you can get the error but it's always the wiring is loose somewhere - most often at the connector on the bed - either the screws aren't tight or the solder connection breaks where the screw connector is soldered to the board. You can push and pull on that connector while the printer is on displaying bed temp and you might see the temp jump from 20C to 100C or 0C in an instant. if so then the problem is near that connector. I've never heard of a bad PCB on a UM2 causing these errors. It's possible in theory but - it's all solid state. It just seems unlikely. When you turn the printer on and just look at nozzle and bed temps. It should read around 20C (room temp). Does the temp just sit there? Or does it bounce around? If it bounces around then maybe it *is* the PCB.

rich can you show a picture of your model in cura? Here are some examples of small lettering I've done. This is with .4mm nozzle. I can go much much smaller with .25mm nozzle but never had to. These were on UM2 with .4mm nozzle. Swapped filament after first print was done (first print was red, second print white on top).

>Tom: I have to take a little exception to the language "probably partly our own fault". I suspect Tom isn't authorized to represent the company so he has to be tactful. Now if it was the president of Ultimaker posting here and he used those words - then I might expect a little annoyance. My understanding is that this is a small percentage of customers with this problem but that it is being taken very seriously at UM. It's always frustrating when a printer works perfectly but then after DHL gets through with it then it has all kinds of problems. UM is not some brand new kickstarter company and is pretty experienced with things like this but not as experienced as say HP is. So expect something in between. They are one of the most mature 3d printer companies for consumers and prosumers but they are still very young.

You can just lift the lever on the feeder, pull out old filament, insert new filament. Right? Am I missing something? I don't use load/unload -- it seems like a lot of work for nothing. Plus you can always continue a failed print. I know it's not written nicely into the firmware (like it is with UM2 tinkermarlin) but I've had multiday prints fail and have been able to keep the bad hot go to bed and the next day edit the gcode and continue a "failed" print no problem. It was an hour of work but saved me a day. I know - not a great solution and lots of work. But possible to do.

I see. I think Cura 15.X was a slicer *and* a printer controller. Cura 2.X is just a slicer. The programmers are concentrating on just the slicing aspect as it is so complicated. Especially with features like support and multi color. jerk control and so on. So I think the idea is you have cura *and* you have pronterface (or similar). Cura for slicing. Pronterface to control the printer. Sometimes merging 2 programs into one makes for one program that does neither well. So maybe it's best this way? Cura 15.X really wasn't that good of a printer controller. Pronterface is so much better.

"manual control"? What does that mean? You can override any setting in cura 2.X. It will show a little icon next to whatever setting you change so you know which settings are not default. Clicking the icon brings it back to default. It's a pretty good design.

I agree with tom nagel but I usually buy filaments from other suppliers. I really like colorfabb ngen so far (have only printed maybe 10 meters and 10 prints). And colorfabb pla/pha is great. Don't get cheap chinese filaments unless you care more about functionality than how it looks and don't care about strength, brittleness.

There's probably a space inside the printhead where the filament can expand and it's getting stuck there. There shoudl be no spots like that. The most common is that the bowden is not inserted into the white teflon part. The second most common is the teflon part is getting old and has expanded. Does your UM2 have the aluminum spacer? Or a spring. If the aluminimum spacer then throw it away and print this instead: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement That way you can visually see that the bowden is going down into the teflon. I find that 90% of the time the bowden seems fine but it is *not* all the way down when I look and I have to jiggle it a bit. Also test that your rear fan is working - the 3rd fan. As meduza says. It should turn on as soon as the head is above 40C if not sooner. That connector for that breaks easily but is also easy to fix.