gr5

> as soon one motor pushes the other direction, there's a delay on feedback to the shafts due lack of tensio Yes! This is called "play" or "backlash". You can read about it in wikipedia. Common problem on UMO and very easy to fix.

ha. Don't bother. unless you use nylon.

I agree with neotko. Move a little away. Or change that 120% to 100% as tomnagel suggests.

Try it again. We get thousands of spams and your first post wasn't quite clear if you were a spammer. Second also but I decided to give you a chance.

TinkerGnome helped me set up the Marlin build environment. How to do it is out there and published but I wrote down extra details. I don't know if my notes make sense but I thought I would post them here. If you try to repeat this and have any trouble let me know below and I will clarify the instructions as necessary. Get the source code from github and put somewhere on your hard drive. I'm not going to give you a tutorial on github - there's a lot to github features alone - you can simply download the zip but if you plan to edit it's best to install git and clone the project. If you want to submit bug fixes you absolutely have to create your own github account and create a fork, make changes, test changes, push changes to github and then send a pull request. Ultimaker's source code is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin tinkermarlin - a variant which is better is here (although there may be a bug in version 16.12.1): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin First know that the IDE is code::blocks. We need SDL 1.2 and arduino IDE and mingW compiler. Start with mingw compiler: Install arduino compiler from here - version 1.6.10 works but some newer versions won't. Ultimaker uses v1.0.5. Save it into a path with no spaces (not program files which has a space): https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software mingw gcc get here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/mingw/files/ Near the top is a setup.exe file. After it installs it launches the installation manager - at this point nothing useful is installed. Next mark packages mingw32-base and mingw32-gcc-g++ (gnu c++ compiler) to be installed and then menu item "installation" "update catalogue". Wait for this to finish. sdl get here: https://www.libsdl.org/download-1.2.php then get the win32 version near the bottom mingw32 version of sdl - this gets us SDL.h and sdl.dll from the gzip file copy the bin\sdl.dll file into c:\mingw\bin\ and lib\* to c:\mingw\lib\* and \include\SDL folder to c:\mingw\include\ such that there are many .h files named SDL*.h in c:\mingw\include\SDL\ optionally copy SDL.dll to c:\windows so it can be found more easily. If there is already an SDL.dll there don't overwrite it - yikes. codeblocks - you only need codeblocks if you want to create a simulation but you should definitely do this - it allows you to break on a line of code and test so many things! But if you write perfect code everytime then skip codeblocks. http://codeblocks.org I recommend installing this last or at least after mingw or restart it after installing mingw. After codeblocks is installed and started it somehow seems to find mingw. After launching codeblocks I think it asked me for a project file that was in the source tree here: .....\MarlinSimulator\UltiLCD2_Sim.cbp In code::blocks menu click "build" "build". You should get no errors in bottom "build messages" window. Click menu "debug" "start/continue" and it should pop up the simulator and boot. Simulator shows screen and position of x,y,z axis graphically and more. Before starting your program you can add a breakpoint in codeblocks on a particular line of code - right click on the number to the left of your line of code and add a breakpoint. Then click the play button called "debug" (versus the play button titled "run"). When the simulator gets to that line it will pause and you can examine variables (right click and add to watch and see values of variables). building the hex files: you need to launch the mingw64 shell - it looks like a dos window but better. I don't know how to launch that but it came for free with my installation of git gui (from the git website). You build like this - get to the marlin folder and do: ./package.sh But it will fail the first time. You need to set a few things up. edit this package.sh file and add this line below the other arduino_path definitions: ARDUINO_PATH=c:/Arduino (or change to wherever you installed arduino ide - again - no spaces in path allowed!). You should probably double check that this file is in this exact path: c:/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-gcc.exe If not, then you probably need to modify AVR_TOOLS_PATH in marlin/Makefile. I didn't have to modify that. You don't have to do anything with ARDUINO_VERSION unless you are using a version before 1.0.0 in which case you should probably get a newer arduino ide anyway. Also I had to redefine MAKE by adding the following line in package.sh - this is where mingw32 installed for me (/c/ is the equivalent of c:\) MAKE=/c/MinGW/bin/mingw32-make This editing of package.sh may sound confusing but it's really quite simple - basically you are telling package.sh where a few folders are. Once you look at it then you will probably realize how simple it is. And if you screw up it's obvious - it will say "can't find mingw" or something like that.

You could just ship it to me at thegr5store.com and buy the hardcore upgrade. Then in the future you can just swap nozzles. I know some people have printed PVA in the "race" nozzles that come with the hardcore and it worked "fine" but there is a danger, heck it's likely, that the PVA will slowly clog it up over the years but you can just change the nozzle in minutes and they cost "only" $22 at this time. If you live in Boston Area and bring it by my house I'd be happy to take it apart for free and fix it. I've taken apart quite a few cores now including ones all gummed up with filament. I've got tricks...

Thanks for saying that! I do:

Oh! The tower broke in the middle!!! That changes everything. My solution (with help from neotko) was to add two towers *before* I added the main print to cura (so it prints the towers before the print). These 2 added towers help hold up the built-in tower:

Lots of people will tell you that ABS is stronger than PLA. It's not true. It used to be that typical PLA filament was less flexible than ABS which basically makes it more brittle and basically weaker (it's more complicated but I"m giving you the simple explanation). Now all the modern formulations of PLA are just as flexible as ABS so just as strong. If anything ABS tends to be weaker. Much weaker. Because of the layer bonding issue. If you print ABS like you print PLA (fans 100%, air temperature < 25C, 230-250C) then you will not notice normally but you will have a huge "grain effect" where ABS breaks along the grain (PLA doesn't have this problem). So until you are an expert with ABS I think you will find it is much weaker. On the other hand, strollers are often left in cars in a parking lot during the day. This temperature (60C - enough to kill a human easily) is also hot enough to soften and ruin PLA parts. ABS can take 100C. Your car interior will never get that hot (if it does all the ABS parts will melt in your dashboard). If you find that PLA or ABS are not strong enough then Nylon is a good option. It's even harder to print than ABS but so so strong due to it's flexibility. You can bend that nylon hinge in half and drive a car over it and it will be fine.

Did you apply a tiny amount of glue like in my video? Your bottom layer squish looks pretty good! This looks like good bed leveling! Congratulations! If the part warps off the bed then I would add a brim. And if you are thinking it will be a lot of work to remove all that brim then you can add the brim only on around the 3 circles. In CAD. Just make a .3mm tall brim. Make it 4mm - it will be zig-zag under the part but that's okay It will be strong - then remove the brim with a knife later. If the part doesn't warp off the bed then no brim needed.

So why not just remove the jumper instead? That sounds like the fix you need.

That sound is because you are feeding too fast during manual priming. Normal prints don't hit those speeds.

regarding your layer cake of abs-support-abs-support-brim: Is the support material also ABS? If it is PVA (I'm not sure that PVA/ABS is supported as I don't think they stick to each other?) then this is an example where you want "horizontal expansion" for the PVA. If the support material is instead ABS (as I suspect) then I can see where you might have warping issues on the left side of the part - brim won't help you there of course. Maybe do "grid" support instead of "lines". Why can't you use PLA for this part? PLA with PVA would be great for this part.

By the way you can make these just fine with UM2:

I left sketchup but I recommend you stick with it a little longer. Here is 3d printing using sketchup guide - really well written with photos: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ However in your particular case I think the problem is the way your walls are facing on that inner circle - you could reverse the edges as described in the above guide or MUCH EASIER - just search through settings and uncheck all the "fix horrible A" and all the other fix horrible. "A" sees that sketchup is telling it that the edges around the batter holder are internal walls instead of external (gray versus white in sketchup - again more in above link) and "fix horrible" decides to fill that all in.

I can't help you with "not stick" issue. That's just how PVA is. You need to design your own supports for this kind of model I suppose. Prime tower falling down - that I can help you with. First of all - I see your prime tower is not in the corner which is probably good. But still check your glass with a straight edge or ruler. Some of the glass beds are warped by 1 or even 2mm. Maybe place the prime tower right over the rear leveling screw where you know the glass is properly leveled if you are afraid to put a ruler on the glass. Secondly level the nozzle closer to the bed to keep that tower from falling. And use a little glue. Watch my leveling procedure at 5:00 in this video and also watch the part about how much glue to use - most people use too much.

>Can you show a photo of your print? I don't understand about the brim,support,print,support. Maybe you should design your own supports with brim around the base of the supports. Just guessing what your print looks like (assuming it's shaped like a lumpy potato).

Oh - ABS! Right. With ABS you don't want too much fan because then you have bad layer adhesion and it can warp apart. Even if it doesn't warp apart you might have very weak parts. Why are you using ABS? it's not as strong as PLA. Well - it can be almost as strong but only if you get really good at it. So the problem with layer adhesion is that the current layer is not fully melting the layer below. The solution for better layer adhesion with ABS is heat. Limit the fan. 3% on UM3, 30% on UM2. Also enclose the printer so the blowing air is warmer. If you just put a cardboard box on top and cover the front with saran wrap it will help quite a bit. Also you want the nozzle temp higher. But I found that I can ruin a print with a nozzle temp as low as 246 if I don't keep the filament flowing (ABS cooks into "gum" if left too long above 200C - higher temps are worse). So I usually print at 240C or 245C if it's printing very fast (> 4mm^3/sec). Some people think .1mm helps with layer adhesion. I disagree - I think .2mm helps. I'm not certain which is better for layer adhesion. But definitely higher temps help. Can you show a photo of your print? I don't understand about the brim,support,print,support. Another thing - 100% infill is usually a bad idea. It usually doesn't add any strength (the strength is usually from the walls - like bones) and if you have slight over extrusion it causes other problems as well (no place for the extra filament).

Oh wow. Well you really need "pva all the way down". Meaning the pva needs to have a continuous path to the glass bed. Because PVA barely sticks at all to PLA. So the "horizontal expansion" fixes this for some part shapes, but not for this one. I'm hoping some future version of Cura will be able to do "PVA all the way down" automatically.

platen = glass? You mean calibrate the leveling? I demonstrate it here - takes less than a minute - go to 5:00 (5 minutes zero seconds). Same procedure for both UM2 and UM3 except for UM3 you have to do the second nozzle. Make sure you calibrate both nozzles the same way - if you do left nozzle without paper and right nozzle with paper than you will have problem. Again - GO TO 5:00 IN VIDEO

>Find it strange i have to manually do this for an ABS print, why cant cura/ultimaker do this automatically for me. I totally agree.

Turning the screws is no good if it does an autolevel after you turn the screws because it will calibrate out any correction you made. Parts that hit the nozzle are caused by outer overhangs - like the bow of a boat. Or really any kind of overhang - any wall that isn't vertical. The cure is 100% fan but I assume you already have 100% fan. Really the best cure for me is to make parts stick like hell. Then it can hit the part as hard as the head wants - hard enough to shake the house - but no big deal. There are other fixes - such as occasional supports on overhangs. Please post a photo of the part where the head hits the part. But if the part never comes off the glass then no big deal.

But did you turn the 3 screws 1/3 turn CCW? That's the most important part. You can do it right after autocal if you want while it's printing the first layer.

I agree with peggyb. Also she designs jewelry and has experience with both resin and fdm printers. If you want to save money there is also the b9creator which has I believe much finer resolution than form2. You can zoom the projector and get smaller prints with finer detail on the b9creator. The resin technology keeps getting better with newer materials with better properties and new tricks like UV curing.

The vertical lines? The darker areas - I assume that is light coming through? If so those are probably where the print is thicker. Could those be infill? Look at the print in layer view in cura to see if that is infill. Or maybe those are the corners of each segment - a circle in CAD is broken up into triangles and then those are sliced into line segments. Those darker areas could be where the printer slows down at each vertex. You could lower the print speed to about 30mm/sec and then it should be at a constant speed (no slowing down at each vertex) to see if that helps. The horizontal dark areas would be where the Z axis had a slight error and was off on that layer such that the layer is slightly thicker. That is harder to fix but also more difficult to see alread. But the first thing to try to fix the horizontal bands would be to clean the z screw and re-apply new grease.