gr5

If this answer doesn't help you please at least explain which mode you are using cura in - you can tell by layer view which will show you what it will do.

When printing multiple objects there are two modes for cura: "print-at-once" and "one-at-a-time". Your post is confusing me because you are mixing your definition with the cura definition (I think - or maybe not - like I said - confusing). So I'll try to answer the question both ways: If you do print-all-at-once it will print one layer of each object then repeat over and over and all the objects will be done at the same time. It shouldn't matter what order because the head can't hit the other objects, right? The order changes on every level change anyway for example if you print 10 things in a line it will raise the Z on the left end and then next time on the right end. if you print one-at-a-time Cura prints one object and only when it is done does it move to the next. Cura looks at the machine values (like gantry height, head shape) and is careful to never bump any of your existing prints. If it is bumping then you need to adjust these values in machine settings. You can force print-all-at-once mode in the menu system. You can't force the other method if objects are placed wrong or if any one part is taller than the gantry (because the x/y rods will knock over the piece when the table goes back to z=0).

Unfortunately no. The output of cura and s3d is gcode. Near the top of that gcode will be a g28 or a "g28 z0" or something similar which homes the bed at the bottom (UM2 - UMO homes at the top). Then Marlin firmware stores an offset such that when you move to postion z=0 the nozzle should just touch the glass. If you home on the short nozzle, then when you put the long nozzle in it could break the glass - or at least put some heavy stress on the z stage when printing at Z=0. this would be the only solution where s3d could print the first layer at say Z=2 (2mm above normal z=0 position). I suppose this would actually work but if you forgot that you had the "long" nozzle in you could break the glass if you printed a job where it tried to print at z=0. The alternative is to home on the long nozzle - this avoids the glass-breaking issue but now when you go to print you need to print the first layer at z= -2. But marlin does not support that - it will hit the "software end stop" and go no farther so you will be printing 2mm off the bed. So there isn't really a fantastic solution. Really the best solution is to get tinker marlin. It allows you to change the Z home position by an exact amount e.g. 2.013mm so every time you change back and forth between nozzles you can tell your printer (using the front panel interface) how much to offset Z and in which direction. download here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V15.03-RC1 discussion here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2?page=63#reply-109035

Unfortunately the defaults change from release to release. You are correct about the 100% part. I believe the recent defaults have been 50mm/sec for printing shell and 80mm/sec for printing infill which will significantly reduce quality due to the speed change. There are 2 issues - quality and throughput. Regarding throughput, the UM2 and UMO can print about 10mm^3/sec through the .4mm nozzle when PLA is on the hot end of things (230C). This is really pushing the limits of what it can do -- we are talking over 100psi of pressure in the nozzle and about 10 pounds or 5kg of force on the filemant by the feeder. I recommend 5mm^3/sec max. To calculate the volume multiple .4mm nozzle by layer height by speed. So 50mm/sec at .2mm layer height would be (easy to do in your head) 4mm^3/sec or a bit above my recommended limit of 5mm^3/sec unless you go up to 240C (less viscous). .1mm layer height you can print faster with no underextrusion. Regarding quality, any speedchange will result in over or underextrusion for a few milliseconds resulting in lower quality - for example on corners of a cube - the printer has to slow down for the corner but will never go slower than the "jerk" speed of 20mm/sec. So in summary - if you want extra beautiful quality - go with 20-35mm/sec (and cooler temperatures). If you want speed here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

I don't think you need any ventilation if you have less than 10 printers. 10 printers printing PLA non-stop will make less aromatic hydrocarbons than frying one hamburger every 3 hours. That's an estimate. ABS is much worse but even ABS is not too bad. I think you should try it first and decide later if you really think it needs venting or filtering. I suspect you will conclude it's fine without even if the printers are used non-stop. Let us know (how big is the space anyway?).

Unfortunately I only just approved this and now it's burried under 16 hours of posts. You should have marked it as a question so it shows up as "unanswered questions". I'm not sure if you still can. If not just post again and make sure it's marked as a question. Anyway the next time you post a question it will be at the top of the community list.

The firmware is always posted before it's even released. Every edit and why the edit was made, every delta (difference), it's all there in github. Some people knew the Ultimaker2 was coming out months ahead of time because they saw the Marlin changes in github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

Ultimaker is making an attempt at this. They have created 4 troubleshooting pages here: https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/11704-extrusion-problems They need at least 100 pages though to compete with this forum. I think.

I guess the closest thing so far is this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

I have a large text file with answers that I have posted more than 3 times. So sometims I just go there and copy and paste. It also has links and such. There's just many hundreds of common questions and almost every day something completely new.

You may be simply printing too fast or too cold. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

I know - it does seem like it. But it would be a pretty massive wiki. And one can already google search all the answers on the forum. I really haven't been able to figure out the best format for that kind of thing.

By the way I'm sure your nozzle is fine even though it may be ugly. You may have a bit of a clog in there and it may be a challenge to clean it out. But you can't do anything until you heat it up to at least 150C to 180C. Just try the "move material" feature when it's all back together and keep your eye on the temperature to make sure it seems reasonable (if the temp sensor isn't working the heater will go to full power and overheat to 300C). Anyway if you can do move material and plastic is coming out then put quite a bit through to get some fresh plastic in there before cutting power and starting anew. You should "relevel" also as the nozzle may have moved up or down by .1mm or so after working on the head.

Make sure to remove that threaded rod first though! You don't want to drill into that! I wish you lived in Massachusetts and then you could just bring it over here and I could have you up and running in 30 minutes. I have all the tools and parts you would need.

Is your heater okay? The rest of your temp sensor is probably *inside* the nozzle/block. The heater has a 4mm outer diamter and the temp sensor has a 3mm outer diameter. Note the two holes in the brass block. Those are 4mm and 3mm diameter. Does your heater still slide nicely into the 4mm one? Do you still have the heater in one piece? The pictures should be taken with a cell phone which can get much closer and zoom in more and get more light in there above the nozzle block - I'm curious now about the nozzle block - you want to remove the threaded screw before inserting or removing heater and sensor. That threaded rod needs a 1.5mm hex wrench so you might want to locate one now while waiting for the new sensor. By the way I have sensors and heaters I believe that are cheaper than fbrc8 here: gr5.org/store/ Anyway I recommend you get hold of a drill bit that fits into the 3mm hole and drill out the remaining chunks of temp sensor. I had to do the same thing once. I recommend a 7/64 drill bit, or a 3mm or a #31 drill bit. Using a drill that is smaller than the hole is best to get most of it out and then use the correct size (#31 drill bit) for the final reaming/cleaning is ideal but any of those above 3 drill bit sizes will work.

@danillus - he's probably printing PLA so 110C bed and 260C nozzle is much too hot. But danillus's first post is the best advice. It's hard to help you leopard because you tell us very little in your posts. We don't know what kind of printer you have and we don't know which material you are using. You mention you bought some ABS but are you using it yet? ABS requires very different ways of printing. It takes a long time to get very good at printing PLA and switching to ABS is a major headache. And the other way around also. Please give more information. Tell us what you tried so far. To me it's very very easy to get parts to stick to the bed but there are things you need to know. Here's some other helpful stuff: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

You don't need the receipt - just the serial number and then you can send a personal message to sander to check. Or contact support.ultimaker.com with the serial number in your message. Hopefully you will get an answer within a day. Or call them - they usually answer the phone during normal working hours Netherlands time and speak english incredibly well.

I recommend you go to 3dhubs. You can specify the printer you want. If you put in your location you can find someone nearby and visit them and see their printer in action. Upload your model to them and have them print it. Prices are very reasonable.

This is a common problem if the 3rd fan isn't working. Anyway to fix it I would completely remove the bowden which means filament needs to be out of the feeder. Mark the bowden with tape so you don't reverse ends (it matters). Remove from both ends by removing the clip, pushing down on the collet while pulling up on the bowden. If the collet doesn't go down on the print head unscrew the 4 thumb screws 5 or 10 turn or until the collet is loose and you can push down on it while pulling up on the bowden. Not pushing down on the collet will scratch and somewhat damage the bowden as it has 4 tiny metal blades inside. Once the bowden is off you can soak it in hot water (160F to 200F or 70C to 90C) for 30 seconds and then fish out the PLA goo with toothpick or something - repeatedly putting it back in hot water (e.g. boil some water in microwave or on stove).

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Jump to the section on warping prints in the above guide and look at the photo of a proper brim (green).

Yikes! #3, #4 are only for ABS! You definitely want to do brim. That's probably the main thing you are missing. The bottom layer is critical - you don't want the glass too close or too far. It should be close enough that as the bottom layer is going down the traces of plastic are flattened like a pancake. Bed must be at least 50C to get good sticking. You get less warping at 60C due to the PLA being above glass temp (glass temp for most pla is at 52C). Look if you do it right you should be posting us "how the hell do I get my print off the bed". Your bed may be dusty so start over and clean it real well with glass cleaner. Then put down some glue stick on just 1/3 of the glass in stripes, then use a wet tissue to spread the glue around (and maybe a tablespoon of water). Let it dry clear - glue should be invisible. Next do brim, make sure filament is being squished (adjust the 3 knobs below plate as it prints the brim to make sure it squished well). Also make sure bottom layer is .3mm and not .1mm and bed is at 50C or 60C. 70C will cause other problems but at least it will stick to the bed. Don't try 70C as you won't need it if you get everything else right.

Then you should read this: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer It's 39 pages explaining how to mod your UMO or UM2 to do dual extrusion in such a way that it works quite well. Well worth the read!

The only reason to get the olsson block in my opinion is if you want to change nozzles. It makes it much easier to do so - 60 seconds instead of 20 minutes. However in your photos it looks like your temp sensor got ruined so I'm pretty sure you will need a new one.

Almost surely the power supply - the black brick. Is it rated correctly - should be for 24V and 9.2Amps (221 Watts)? It's possible you have a um2go power supply. If the printer is less than a year old, UM will know by the serial number and you can get a new one shipped to you most likely for free (1 year warranty). Or you can buy one - just google the exact same part number and they are sold for exmample in USA for about $90. support.ultimaker.com is where you should start to get things moving. While waitnig for a new power supply, you can print on cold glass just fine - cover the glass with blue painters tape and wash the tape with a tissue soaked in isopropyl alcohol to remove the wax from the tape. Then make sure the first layer is getting squished somewhat flat into the tape and it will work just fine for PLA (but not for ABS).

If the fan seems very noisy there are replacements that are much quieter.