gr5

Just change the .py file in your current cura installation and then launch cura.

Oh - this doesn't build Cura. It only packages it up for release into a single installer. Do you even need to do that? Did you already build your new Cura (because this package step is unrelated to building cura)? I'm a programmer. I've used git bash. But I really don't know much about how to build Cura. I think the python files are not compiled so you can just edit them in place. But then there's the "steamEngine" which is the c program that does the actual slicing - that needs to be compiled if you edit any of the c code.

I've enlarged the 3mm hole slightly using a drill bit of almost any size but preferably close to 3mm or a little smaller. You make a circular motion such that the sides of the drill touch the sides of the hole and this will remove very tiny amounts of material. At high speed it only takes maybe 10 seconds for my dull drill bits to make a tight hole into a perfect hole.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. Could you try to explain what the expected behaviour is compared to what happens? Ultiarjan wants to increase flow to make things watertight. but different increases for different parts of the cup. So he thinks of it as printing 1mm lines with a .8mm nozzle and lines separated by .8mm such that they overlap (watertight). Other's may call this "flow=120%". It's the same thing but from different viewpoint. Ultiarjan was hoping he could get this to work by setting the nozzle width different from the line width.

I sent this to the developers so it can be added to next release of cura.

Is there a README file? The people who wrote Cura haven't been on the forums lately as far as I can tell. But there was an explanation of how to build Cura a while back somewhere on the forums. Did you install portable python 2.7.6.1?

Here's from a few days ago:

I have been flying. Yes. This is from this past January. Maybe I'll post something else soon...

@armfielding - you dual posted so people please answer above question here instead: https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/16657-how-do-i-replace-the-temperature-sensor?page=1#reply-111988

You definitely do not have to take any panels apart. First remove the bottom cover - it's held in by 2 screws. Then remove the old temperature connector and notice where it was connected. You will probably want to remove the 4 screws holding that board in place - the 4th screw head is *under* one of the motor covers so you should probably remove that also - to do so first push the bed all the way down. There is either one or two screws depending how old your printer is. This should all be straightforward. Now to run the new cable. I would probably just run it on the outside and tie wrap it. But some people use the old temp sensor cable to string through the new temp sensor cable (tape together, pull it through).

First of all you can get cheaper stuff from 3dsolex and good quality. Also please indicate what country you are in by setting that in your profile settings. It matters as to the answers of many questions.

Definitely - take the whole head apart. It's easy. Start by removing the 4 screws that hold the fan shroud and let those 2 fans dangle, then remove the 4 longs screws. Then remove the 2 screws that clamp in the spring and isolator. When/if you rotate the nut attached to the block (although hopefully you don't need to go there) make sure the nozzle is at 180C when doing that and make sure neither the temp probe nor the heater slips out while at 180C because if either slip out it will overheat > 300c and damage something. There's no need to remove the 3rd fan throughout this process. I have taken the head apart maybe 10 times now - it's not very complicated.

On the cylinder I think the darker areas have higher extrusion and the ligher areas have lower extrusion. I thought it might be your Z axis but I'm not sure because it seems to happen at different layer heights at different times. That nick in your z screw is very suspicious though so you might want to ask support.ultimaker.com to just send you a new z screw to help you diagnose this and there is a reasonable chance that will fix it.

It could be just mild underextrusion. Caused by filament tangles, nozzle at lower temp, sudden fan increase, things like that. When the filament is cooler it gets more viscous and less gets extruded (the feeder slips a tiny tiny amount - you can see it (barely - need magnifier) in the pattern in the filament through the clear bowden tube). Also some bad suppliers will sell filament that changes in diameter enough to make patterns like this. The good vendors tend not to have this issue.

It's called "marlin". The firmware running inside the printer is called "Marlin". Cura is the slicer but does let you upload Marlin into the printers. I don't think the firmware has changed in the last few months. Not sure. I'm very happy with my versions that are of various ages - some more than a year old. Some of the newer Marlin's have features I don't like. So I don't see any reason to rush to upgrade the firmware.

I can do it for you if you indicate IrobertI versus gr5.

I think there was an artificial deadline of July 1. I think the new Cura was promised for July and they planned to ship no matter what. I suppose that's fine as long as you tell people it's a beta. Hell, pretty much all of google's products still say "beta" on them, lol. It's about managing expectations.

The files change throughout the year. They are probably all available on thingiverse and/or youmagine.

Or drop box or google drive or your own website or 10,000 other services. But youmagine would be appropriate.

And I strongly recommended it not be released on July 1 as it was so buggy 2 weeks before I couldn't really use it. Only 4 days before release did I feel I could finally slice something and print something but I was in a rush that weekend and used the "old" cura.

Just to clarify - there's no such thing as the "UM1". Because Ultimaker didn't want to imply that the UMO is older. Because the UMO gets updates all the time and is sometimes the newer printer and then sometimes the UM2 gets an update and then the UM2 is the newer printer for a few weeks. So it's "Ultimaker Original" and "Ultimaker2".

Did you try pushing the bed up and down by hand to see if you can feel a bad spot? I'm not sure what is going on - it could be temperature fluctuations, feeder, or Z screw. but only Z screw would be repeatable on the same layer every time - but it looked like one of the lines was repeatable and the other wasn't. I'm leaning towards Z but I'm not convinced with only 1 coincidence. See if you can print totally different models (something skinnier) and if it happens at consistant heights. I recommend a 8mm diameter cylinder. With no infill. The goal isn't to make a nice part - it's just a test.

I can't imagine why the stepper would go the wrong way. There is a direction signal but if the signal was stuck it would go the same direction always and never go towards the back. Ever.

All of those settings look fine. It would be best to post them all though. Not to type them in one at a time but to post the ini file for them (which version of Cura are you using)? I guess the only ones that could cause what you see that are left over are "flow" on the printer, the top infill not checked off. Well if it were me I would test the feeder at this point and also check the temperature. These tests are involved but worth it to limit the problem to a particular area. Also if it were me I would do a quick change of the nozzle just in case it has some kind of partial clog and because I have an olsson block that's very easy to do. Anyway: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder

Why not stick with the (slightly) older version for now?