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Always view your part in "layer view" before printing. Support is in a teal/cyan color. You want "support everywhere" which is needed to have the support material place *on top* of a portion of your part to support a different portion of your part. Sometimes if "brim" is enabled it messes up the support. Also the area might be too small for Cura to consider adding support. This may print better than you think even though it's "in the air". It may take a few layers to recover but it will sort of work with no support. Personally I would design my own support in CAD and have it just barely touch the very end of the upper "rod".

I don't know if Anders and Swordriff will be manufacturing their own nozzles and which sizes but if they are, what sizes does everyone like? What should be in a nozzle kit? I asked several people and got these answers: .35 .4 .6 .25 .4 .6 .8 .4 .6 .8 .3 .4 .6 .8 .5 .6 (EldRick in next post) I told them they had to restrict themselves to the ones at this store (link below) but people posting here can pick any size - not just ones at this store. Keep in mind that above about 1.0mm you don't get faster print speeds because the heater element can't keep up so it's silly to go to 1.2mm. http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles If you pm me I will add your name and answer to this post. Or if you post below I will do the same thing (edit this post).

If anyone wants a quote for North America, send me a PM. I don't know if Anders and Swordriff want me to post pricing yet so I have been just emailing directly. My prices are identical to the prices in Europe (but converted to nearest dollar) except of course your shipping is very low. In other words the cost of shipping from Europe to USA and the cost of my spending time taking/shipping orders is already taken care of in the reduced price of the blocks that Swordriff charges me.

@mohissa - that's typical print quality for that particular structure (very very thin walls sticking out with 45 degree overhang). There's a whole topic on this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Skip right to "page 2" and look at foehnstrum's video and read all the posts after that possibly. It's not until around post #39 and later that we really begin to understand what causes the issue.

The fans come of extremely easily. You unscrew the 4 hex head screws first (buy a screwdriver shaped tool - don't use one of those L shaped tools!). Then slide up the weave above the print head and locate the wiring. There are connectors near the print head either inside the print head or just above in the "wiring harness". The 2 connectors that go to the fans are connected together by a short wire. The 3rd connector goes to the rear fan. Disconnect the 2 side fan connectors and pull them through the head gently. You *might* have to loosen the 4 head screws completely which is not a big deal and it all goes back together without much fuss - just take your time and be gentle. ABS doesn't need much fan but it helps on overhangs and bridging quite a bit. So if you are printing say a flat gear - no fan needed. But if you are printing something like a human head with a chin overhang or the UM robot or, well, 70% of my prints, then you need a little bit of fan for the overhangs if you want the parts to look nice. Some of the older slicers (back in the days before PLA) turn the fan on and off just for overhangs and bridges.

I think he meant "hex bolt" maybe?

If there is dust in the two linear bearings that's bad. The 2 bars are held in by simple caps underneath. Remove the long bars, remove the bearings, clean well with wd40 and oil with light machine oil. Test on the rods - make sure they slide smoothly.

I would take the bed apart. There is a simple Z nut - small. Held in by I think 4 screws. I would first take off the cover (or at least slide it up and examine the Z screw and then clean some more and then maybe take that part off and play with it. You might want to clean all the grease off and then grease it again. It's okay to have lots of extra grease but a single pea size drop should be enough. WD40 is pretty good at cleaning things like this if there is dust and dirt. It could easily *not* be the Z screw and might be those 2 vertical bearings. Those are more likely to make a "sand" noise. There are small ball bearings in the linear bearings. Usually the noise sounds bad but is simply the bearings falling in a normal way. You could loosen those also (remove the screws) and slide them up and down to check for resistance. Those two bars should be lubricated with a light oil (not wd40, not grease). Any light mineral oil will work. The fewer additives the better. Some examples: baby oil, sewing machine oil, mutli-use oil, 3-in-one oil.

Despite what Daid seems to be recommending - the 1.5.7 electronics and the UMO are exellent and the UMO prints with just as good quality (in my opinion - I have both machines). So if it were me, even though I am an electrical engineer, I would go with the much simpler 1.5.7 and use your exsiting thermocouple and it's electronics since you seem to already have this. Does your existing thermocouple work with an AD595? Do you already have an AD595 circuit board that goes with your thermocouple? Because if you have this already and can hook it up to the 1.5.7 then that seems to me much cheaper and easier than going for the UM2 board. I'm not sure that the PT100 is much better than the thermocouple solution.

I see 3 issues. Let me address the ones you didn't notice so much first. You have a much bigger dent near the bottom of the part. This is usually caused by the heated bed being too hot for PLA. I recommend 50C. 70C is definitely too hot. Also I could be wrong about this but your bottom layer looks a bit rounded - not as squished flat is desireable (I means it's quite close - maybe its fine but I think it's high). Because of this parts might pop off the bed during a print. Okay... now to your question. Those last 2 things have nothing to do with it. You are over extruding on 2 layers I think and then normally (or under) extruding at the "dent". This can be caused by quite a few things: 1) Most likely (60%?) it's your Z axis not moving the same amount each time. I see you mention .2mm so I assume this is your layer height so I'm thinking the bed didn't move the proper .2mm (maybe moved 1.5mm) and so you got some over extrusion and it squished out a bit, then on the next few layers it moved more (say 2.2mm) and so you got normal or under extrusion (just slight) and then it repeated again but then you got consistent movement after than. Z axis issues could be caused by many things - turn off power and push it up and down and see if it's rubbing anything (like spool holder!). Consider adding some grease (the little green tube if you got one with your printer). You may have a bad Z screw or bad vertical bearings or bad Z nut or bad vertical rods. 2) Also quite possible (30%?) is temperature issues. The fan may be coming on for the first time at the dent and you might be getting underextrusion due to cold nozzle. Also newer versions of Marlin seem to have issues related to some changes in how the bed temperature and nozzle temperature is controlled. You can verify this by watching the nozzle temp while it is printing the layers in question. Both of these issues can happen at the same height always for different parts (if #2 is triggered by fan) but #1 tends to be more consistent. Both of these issues can be inconsistent where they happen on different layers. Other than fan turn on location #2 tends to oscillate forever or just for a few minutes after fan turns on. Whereas #1 is often at the exact same sticky spot on the Z axis.

I printed the materials in an orientation that I thought would be strongest. So the "band" or loop part doesn't care much about layer adhesion. The rectangular part where I tested the flex/bend - that part has more forces and one of the parts broke along a layer line due to not quite perfect layer adhesion (although pretty good!). I think it was the ABS part. I am aware that ABS can have layer adhesion problems (actually everything but PLA has these issues as they solidify almost instantly when printed). I've had problems with this in the past - both ABS and Nylon.

Most things on my Ultimaker 2 are very very quiet - much quieter than the UM Original. The exception is the Z axis. It is very loud. Louder than UMO I think. I can hear it up a flight of stairs and 10 meters away through 2 closed doors. Fortunately the Z axis doesn't move very often.

Those rounded corners probably have more to do with printing speed. Keep it slow - under 35mm/sec. Try 25mm/sec see if that helps the corners. Also if you have layer adhesion problems definitely reduce fan. Maybe even turn it off completely. You might need a little fan on overhangs. I've never printed XT but I've printed ABS and some of their properties are similar due to both having much higher glass temperature.

Oh! I call that game "breakout". You can get the source code for that version of Marlin here and somehow merge it with UMO source code. Maybe. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

The UMO and 1.5.7 board are reprap style and compatible with most reprap style equipment. You can build Marlin here for the 1.5.7 board: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ As you can see at the website it lets you select many different thermistors or a thermocouple for the bed and for the nozzle. It does *not* let you choose a PT100. Thermocouples and PT100 need extra electronics between the device and the 1.5.7 board. Thermistors don't need anything special (except perhaps solder in a 4.7K resistor). If you already have a working reprap printer you could probably use the nozzle and temperature probe from that. What do you have now to measure nozzle temperature? Regarding heated bed - 12V, 30Amps is plenty. That would probably be a separate power supply for the bed alone. The 1.5.7 board should work fine with 12V but it works better with 19V (more voltage to the stepper motors and nozzle). There are two common ways to hook up a heated bed to the 1.5.7 electronics. One is to use the existing circuit on the 1.5.7 to ground (through the built in mosfet) the heated bed and to put power on the other side. A more common implementation is to wire the existing "heated bed" connector to the coil of a relay and use that relay to control power to the heated bed. A thermistor is an excellent solution for the heated bed temperature sensor but don't get just any thermistor - get one of the commonly used reprap thermistors that are listed in the marlin builder website - get the exact part number because each manufacturer makes different kinds of thermistors. A pt100 will work but again you need extra electronics found on the UM2 board only. Or you have to design your own. Plus marlin builder doesn't know the tables for PT100.

Is that a game? There's not much room for a game in Marlin.

Basic arduino is not capable of handling the PT100. I think maybe because the resistance doesn't change much. PT100's are nicer than normal thermisters. They are made out of platinum and can handle temperatures higher than thermistors. For the nozzle there is no thermistor that can handle those temps - 250C to 300C. So the UMO uses a thermocouple which works great easily up to 300C. The bed usually uses a thermistor since it never gets hotter than 110C and thermistors are much easier to work with than thermocouples. Thermocouples also need more electronics (arduino can't read those directly either - really only the heated bed thermistor). The other nice thing about PT100 is they are ALL THE SAME. They are all 25C at 100 ohms (20C at 108 ohms). All of them. Whereas thermistors are all different. There are a thousand different types. With different curves. A 10K thermistor is 10K at 25C but at 30C it depends on the Alpha or Beta value and every manufacturer is different.

You should be able to get the board from Ultimaker. They are for sale at Ultimaker USA so they should be for sale in Netherlands. I know it's not listed on their website but I think if you ask them, possibly you can get one. I don't think fbrc8 will ship one to France as they have already been shipped from Netherlands to USA: http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/electronics-pack-1

lol. Note that Bas works only one flight above and 20 meters distant from Erik. I think if he tried he could hold his breath and run to Erik's desk without taking a breath (would be difficult but possible).

@CCW - some clarifications (are you going to order a heater block by the way? I was hoping to send you one today or tomorrow and combine my trip to the post office): G0 and G1 do the same thing on the UMO and UM2 - move axes. They have six axes: X,Y,Z,E where E is extruder. All moves are linear meaning if one axis has to move slow, the other axes move correspondingly slow and accelerate in a corresponding maner so that the head always moves linear in all 4 dimensions (all 4 axes). If you only command one axis to move it of course can use max acceleration and speed. If you leave out an axis it doesn't move that axis: G1 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 followed by G1 X1 Y0 Z0 E0 is the same as G1 X1 F is feedrate and is goal speed in mm/sec for all 4 axes but on the UM machines if X or Y is moving this limits the speed because they always move the most in a particular move. For example a typical move might for extruding a wall of a 10mm wide box might be 10mm in X, 0mm in Y, 0mm in Z and .4mm in E. Since the E move has to take the same amount of time and since it moves so little it is the X move that will be at the feedrate and E will be of course linearly slower. Feedrate is an old term for milling machines and implies this is how fast the cutting bit can go through the stock that you are cutting. Obviously cutting moves (or extruding moves) are slower than non cutting moves.

The UM2 also typically comes with a different display. If you do build your own UM2 I would use this feeder instead: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two Building a UMO is so much easier because you can find 3d printable parts for many things such as the "blocks" which slide on the 4 top belts and the print head itself. Or you can laser cut a huge amount of parts from wood. Anyway, good luck!

I love having the transparency into your operation! I wish Ultimaker would share things like that - e.g. "all shipments will be delayed for at least a week because the current batch of heated bed thumb screws are defective and we are waiting on a new batch and we have to retrofit 300 printers once they arrive and are meanwhile still assembling". Or "serial numbers after XXXX now have a weaker spring (call it V3) and are set by default to the tightest setting.

Also try pushing the head around with power off. See if X and Y axes are obviously different. Also if you already leveled it once and you want to make the bed closer I recommend simply turning all 3 screws 1/4 turn and not running the procedure. The procedure gets you close but to get it better it's best to just turn the screws and print a skirt or brim.

1) UM2 should come assembled. Do you mean you have the UMO+? 2) Can you maybe post a video (with sound)? I don't know what noise you are talking about. If Y axis is slipping it will typically shift between layers. Are you sure it isn't the feeder that's slipping? UM doesn't host video so you have to post it on vimeo, youtube, or similar and then link to it.

@personal drones - good tip! Although it didn't work for me in internet explorer or firefox but *did* work in chrome! @medicalModeler - just change it to .5mm for now ("minimal extrusion before retracting"). That should keep you from grinding the filament.