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@3dnerd: Gap explanation: [EDIT - ACTUALLY ALSO MAKE SURE GAP IS LARGE ENOUGH SO HEATER BLOCK DOESN'T TOUCH FAN SHROUD] And video explaining how to change heater block:

First of all be very careful when rotating these parts now as brass is not nearly as strong as steel. Only rotate these parts when the heater block is heated to around 180C so that any plastic in there will not act as "loctite". No need to go hotter than 180C as that can turn PLA and ABS into a kind of caramelized glue if you leave it hot for hours but 180C is pretty safe. Teflon tape is fine. It has a glass temp of around 250C but it should be fine up to even 300C as a thread lock so the answer is "yes". It may be that you didn't quite assemble it correctly. Your nozzle should not be touching the aluminum - there should be a very tiny gap - maybe 1/2mm such that you know for sure that the brass nozzle is touching the brass threaded pipe. Years ago (more than 2 years ago), Ultimaker used to supply about 1 meter of ABS filament with the kit. The idea as to initially print with ABS such that the ABS would leak out through the heaterblock and nozzle. This would help clog up any leaks. Then I'm guessing you follow that with some PLA at "low" temperatures - no hotter than 220C I would think. After printing 40 hours of PLA like that the ABS should turn into a kind of glue. But I never had to do this. If the leak is slow enough, eventually the PLA will cook into a glue and the leak will stop. After 5 or 10 hours of printing.

1) The clips are the biggest problem. You can print 230X225 if the object is *not* square and doesn't cover those gray areas where the clips are. So you are correct. The older (recent) versions of cura wouldn't let you get anywhere near the clips - I believe Cura is getting smarter about all that. 2) The next problem is for large parts you usually need a large brim. The eats into your print dimensions. However usually you only need a brim on the corners. I have also had people from 3dhubs send me something that is 230mm wide. Fortunately it was skinny enough in the other dimension that I could rotate it 45 degrees. Unfortunately that means for a different shaped infill but it's probably just as strong. I hope. I always play around in cura with their object before accepting the print job - often I need them to fix something that is too skinny to print (e.g. thin walls).

When I first got my UM2, 4.5mm was the default and it wasn't far enough. I set it to 5.5 and then I think 6.5mm was perfect. However I also noticed that the bowden tube was moving up and down in the head on every retraction by about 2mm. The first time I took apart the head - when I put it back together, I seated the bowden tube a little tighter so that it doesn't move on retraction - be careful - if it's too tight it will slowly warp the white teflon part it pushes against (the isolator). After doing that I found 4.5mm to be perfect amount of retraction. Another way to test retraction amount is to watch the printer on a print that has TONS of retractions and look at the filament inside the tube at the top of the curve. You can see the filament is at the top of the curve/bowden tube normally and on every retraction it should move just enough to reach the bottom of the tube. Some brands of PLA don't stick to themselves very well. The print quality isn't as good and you get lots of strings. Every color is different also. Some leak more than others - see first photo here (done on UMO): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

ya, .25mm: post #329: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=95991

Yes - you need to move the extruder closer to the bed. 1) Please post what kind of printer you have (it's okay if it's not an ultimaker) in your profile. 2) Please post what country you are in for your "location" field in your profile. 3) Please don't use imgur in the future because I don't think they store pictures for many months rendering this whole thread useless years from now.

LETS GET SOME TERMS STRAIGHT (these are Ultimakers words - not mine): Isolator - The white teflon part Isolater Nut - the steel round nut that rotates and has 6 holes with which you can stick a metal stick through to rotate it The UM2 head is designed to have adjustable nozzle height so that you can have TWO extruders. It is important that they be the exact same height within about .01mm (1/10th the width of paper). So it is precisely adjustable with the isolator nut. It's important that the isolator touches the heater block with no gap - otherwise plastic can get in there and cause problems so you should be able to see *some* gap between the isolator nut and the isolator. But more than 1mm of gap is starting to put too much pressure on the spring above. You *should* be able to raise and lower the nozzle without taking anything apart but in practice I think one needs some kind of special tool and since we don't have dual extrusion there is no need.

Or raise the temperature! I print at 240C all the time if I am in a rush and don't care as much about quality.

If you have a .4mm nozzle it has a radius of curvature of .2mm (.4 is diameter, .2 is therefore radius - if you are already lost you should just go think about the nature of circles some more before continuing). So if you print say a cube, the 4 vertical corners will have (in theory - and pretty close in practice also) a roundness or a curvature with radius .2mm. However *inside* corners in theory can be perfect. So when printing fine details the bumps or convex portions will be rounded or blurred a bit by that .2mm radius. It's hard to say the *limit* of resolution is .2mm as it can definitely show details that are smaller than .2mm but that's a good basic rule of thumb: "a .4mm nozzle lets you print an accuracy of about .2mm". A .3mm nozzle therefore down to .15mm and so on. These smaller nozzles take a crazy long time to print anything larger than a pea. Typically 8X slower so a 20 hour print now suddenly takes a week to print! Or a 4 hour print takes over a day to print now.

Yikes - I hope you can get better quality than that. I don't use the filament holder. I put the spool on the floor sideways and let it uncoil - I usually put it on a spring thing (lazy susan) and give it a kick every half hour. Or sometimes I mount the spool like this:

We aren't leapfrog experts - you need to find out what gcodes set the heaters for the leapfrog. Then for now manually edit the gcode file (it's just a text file - easy to read and edit). Then after confirming that it works you can let us know in the forums what gcode controls heat and to use the gcode. Normally according to this: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code M109 S210 sets the nozzle temp to 210C some printers use M104 - but for Marlin that's bad because it returns right away and doesn't wait for heatup. M109 waits for temperature to be reached before continuing printing. M190 S50 sets the bed temp to 50C (similarly M140 sets the temp and doesn't wait) and

Phew! That's great news. If someone *does* damage their temp sensor and they aren't afraid to do a little crafting, you can buy any smd PT100 as they all have the exact same temperature curves because they are all made out of platinum and then build your own probe. The tricky part is you can't use ordinary solder because it will melt so you need something else like maybe a crimp.

Prices in USA/canada/mexico are identical so with recent conversion rate I charged $68. I will update price each time I buy a batch from swordriff. Next batch will be qty 20 or larger (of each thing he is willing to sell).

As layer height gets thicker you are trying to print more volume through that tiny nozzle. .3mm is TWICE the volume as .15mm. You are probably printing near the limit. Here is the max speed I recommend you print with on the UM2. The UM2 should be able to do double this speed but at a cost of quality. So I suppose if you really want you can increase these speeds by 150% if you don't care about quality much. THIS IS FOR .3MM LAYERS 14mm/sec at 200C 20mm/sec at 210C 27mm/sec at 225C 33mm/sec at 240C Data is from this graph: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ You might want to instead buy a larger nozzle for your printer if you want to make "draft" prints. A .8mm nozzle can print 4X faster than a .2mm nozzle (.6mm layer heights are reasonable or you can print .3mm layer heights but at 2x the speed of above table with stripes 2X wider): Swordriff is selling these heater blocks and swappable nozzles: umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/

If you are happy with quality of bottom layer I would ignore it. If you really want to fix it you have to adjust your leveling slightly and give the nozzle a tiny bit more gap. Maybe 1/4 turn on each of the 3 screws. What is happening is the bottom layer is probably 0.3mm and you actually only have space for 0.15mm so there isn't always enough space for all the PLA to go and so the pressure builds up very high in the nozzle until eventually the feeder gives up and slips back a bit. But it is better to print .3mm in .15mm space then the other way around (.3mm in .4mm space) as the other way around will give you bad adhesion to the glass.

The best way to fix this in Cura is to add a third perimiter so the inner diagonal edge doesn't mess up the outside beauty. The problem is you have top/bottom turned on (as you should) and so it thinks of this diagonal "top" of your print has having a top and it wants to make sure it is complying with the top/bottom thickness setting. I suppose another "fix" is to set top/bottom thickness to just one layer height (.15 in this case) but that might cause other ugliness. Playing with these 2 settings (adding a perimeter or reducing top/bottom thickness) should help you. But the basic answer is "no you can't turn on this extra infill near edges".

Bed leveling affects only the bottom layer. Not the rest of the print. But it also affects how well the bottom layer sticks to the glass. However your issue with nozzle hitting print is common where there are overhangs. The best fix is more fan. Or occasonal supports to keep the mask from getting knocked over. YOu should be able to wrap tht mask with a small stick quite hard and it should not come off - say a toothbrush maximum velocity held medium loosely. It's hard to explain exact forces. Pick up a 2 pound weight (or a 16 ounce can of vegetables). That much force - 2 pounds worth at the top edge or your part SHOULD NOT knock it over. If it does you need more support so that when that nozzle wacks the raised edge over overhang - the part hangs in there.

Please update what kind of print you have in your profile settings. Also put your country in the location settings. Please.

Is that the bottom? if so you have a serious leveling issue - you need the nozzle A LOT closer to the glass. Maybe .1mm. Maybe .2mm. That's a lot. What printer do you have? UMO or UM2? Either way you turn the levelling screws. I usually do it while it prints the first layer but you can turn probably 3/4 of a turn on all your bed screws - then print again. While printing bottom layer only adjust 1/4 turn at a time. I do *not* recommend running the leveling procedure. You are close enough that you can do it on the fly while printing the brim.

Oh - also try twisting it gently while hot - around 110C (not 180C that's not necessary).

I would also probably wait for Anders and order the temp sensor. However if you don't want to wait, drill a small hole very carefully big enough for paper clip wire to slip through on the wall of the heater block opposite the existing holes. Don't drill too far! Then remove the drill and push out the probe with a paper clip. You probably want to drill a little, then check the hole then repeat 10X or 20X so you don't drill too far. However our hands are very sensitive to tiny changes in movement and you might be able to sense when you "punch through" from brass to steel.

Don't use those settings. Tell me fast settings doesn't help as this has a different meaning for different versions and I'm not going to take the time to install your particular version of cura and then see what speed it is when you can do it yourself. Better to use the "full settings" mode. The reason the layers look better on the bottom is probably that it was printing slower - by default in Cura it prints the bottom layer at a slower speed and then changes gradually over the next 2 or 3 layers to the desired printing speed. What you are seeing on your prints is underextrusion. Both in the seperation in shell outer passes and also in the gaps between infill (sometimes those gaps are caused because there isn't much support and it takes a few layers but the shell gaps are definitely underextrusion). The most common cause of underextrusion is printing too cold or too fast. For PLA at .2mm layers you should print no faster than: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C These values are right off the graph here which is for UM2 but the top speeds are about the same for the two printers. The values I mention above are half of what the printer is capable of - so those are the top speeds I prefer to print at. Of course with .1mm layer you can print at double those speeds. The problem is the viscosity of plastic gets very thick (think toothpaste) at 200C versus more like honey at 240C. I don't recommend going over 240C unless you are printing at higher speeds then mentioned here as 250C is both bad for your print head on UMO and also bad for your nozzle as PLA can caramelize into a nozzle clogging gunk if you leave it for even just a few minutes at 250C. So again, even though you can definitely do it, I recommend 240C for the top PLA temperature. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Also note that different brands of PLA and especially different colors have different viscosity so your PLA may vary a bit from these values.

You didn't get it yet? :( I shipped 2/18.

>I tried emailing support but the individual could not find any information about the order, which was paid in full over a month ago with no updates since. Um - that sounds crazy. For most support questions you can talk to USA support but for "lost money" I think you have to contact the people in the Netherlands. Talk to them again - or talk to your credit card company and get your money back. In the Netherlands they have certain support people who help with technical problems and other people who deal with order/money problems like this.

You should contact support (fbrc8.com does support for USA customers with UM2s). They are very good. I'm not sure exactly what you mean so maybe a video would help. Could it be: 1) gcode file is empty or corrupt? Maybe slice another one? Try printing something that used to work. 2) Could it be the power brick? Some of those are flakey. 3) Could it be K1? When that gets stuck the controller works fine but the motors have no power and the nozzle/bed heat don't work. That would be at the "tune cancel" screen though - not the "print material maintenance" screen.