gr5

Look at the nozzle very very carefully - with a magnifier - is the hole still round or is it damaged? What about the "shoulder"? That flat part around the hole. I think a video of what you are describing would be very helpful.

lol. Bottom/top thickness is the equivalent of shell in the vertical direction. It's hard to give that a word. I don't think there is a word in the english language for the concept. It doesn't cover just *the* top most surface but all horizontally flat surfaces. As far as posting an image, click "gallery" in the top left corner of this page, then click "upload", then make a post and click "my media" next to the smile icon.

On 3dhubs you can specify UM2. Very very few people out there (but the number is going to grow quick I think) have .25mm nozzles on their ultimaker. That is what will give you better resolution - smaller nozzles.

If no one replies, try 3dhubs.com. Good prices, local printing.

No - the top/bottom thickness. "Basic" tab, "fill" section.

picture please. "runny" is not sufficient explanation. Click "gallery" on top left of this page, then "upload" then make a new posting and click "my media" next to smile icon. I recommend you DONT use "high quality" but use "full settings" mode. Start off with layer height .1mm. Bottom layer .3mm. 220C nozzle temp, 50C bed temp, print slow (say 30mm/sec). Use brim if parts are lifting off glass. Fan at 100% by 1mm (parts may look "runny" (whatever that means) before fans come on but if they come on too quicly the nozzle temp can drop too fast). Shell MUST be integral amount of nozzle width - so .4mm nozzle, .8mm shell is good. Show photo - there' so many things that can go wrong with so many different kinds of models and issues.

I'm sure UM will send you a new one if you convince them (possible with photo?) that the old one is bad. They officially extended the warranty to 1 year retroactively and also they are unofficially replacing broken parts for ultimakers even older than 1 year (if you don't yell at them too much). So there is a good chance you can get one for free if you open a ticket.

You don't need to clean your glass. The glue stick helps a lot with sticking. You need very little - if you want to improve the glue stick you can add some water and spread it around with a wet tissue such that there is almost no glue left - it should dry completely transparent but you can tell it's there if you scratch it with a finger nail. Also Brim is very helpful in holding down large objects that are curling at the corners.

The gray PLA is fine. Print it at 220C with bed at 50C. Hotter won't make it stick any more. 30C or colder and it won't stick very well. At 70C (and 60C) the bottom few layers don't come out as well. You're problem is most likely (85%) the leveling. I know you leveled 4 times. So stop leveling with the procedure. Now do it by turning the screws. Start your print and look at the brim or skirt as it is laid down. If it's so thin it's almost invisible your nozzle is too close (not likely). If it's roundish the nozzle is too far from the glass (this is most likely in your case). You want it squished somewhat flat like a pancake as the skirt is being laid down (or brim). For brim you want the lines touching - no gaps between. If there is a gap you need to move nozzle closer to glass. If there it's so thin it's almost transparent - too close. If the feeder is skipping backwards because it can't get any filament out you are probably also too close. Push down on the bed for a sec to increase the gap and see if the PLA spurts out. If you are still having trouble please post a video of the first layer skirt being laid down. between 5 seconds and 30 seconds is all we need to see - more than 30 seconds is a waste of your time and our time.

It's best just to play with it. There are many ways to set temperature. If in cura you choose "rep rap" mode (not recommended for UM2 but you can do it) then you can choose temperature there and it's one of the first lines in gcode that sets the temperature. With normally sliced Cura gcode files there is no gcode to set the temperature and instead it starts off at the default temp for that material. You can tell the printer what material you have e.g. ABS, PLA. Each material has a default starting temp (and heated bed temp and retraction distance and retraction speed and filament diameter). Those 5 parameters are stored with the filament type. You can change these defaults if you click customize. Before customizing slect the material you want to change. Then click customize, change one of the values, save it and select the material to save the settings into (e.g. PLA). You can also save to "new" materials and they are called CUSTOM1 CUSTOM2, etc. You can also save all these to the SD card, open on a computer and edit the names of the materials and settings, put the SD card back into UM2 and load the new custom settings. That way you can have new material names e.g. "PET". Once you start printing, if any line in the gcode specifies temperature it will jump to that temperature. Or if you go to TUNE menu you can see the current temperature and change it. So the safest way to know for sure what temperature you are printing at is to go to the TUNE menu after it starts printing and set it to whatever you want. But if you keep using the same temp every time then it's easiest to set it up once by customizing your filament (e.g. PLA).

For PLA you could try caustic soda. Lots more info here:

Hardware porn! I want some of these now!

lol. One way to think of it.

Like they said. Shell of .6mm won't look so good on a .9mm nozzle. Also did you set nozzle to .9mm in advanced tab? If you set nozzle to .9mm and shell to .6mm it will print as though you have a .6 nozzle. Same spacing and flow one would expect for a .6mm nozzle.

If you want inner walls and not just outer walls you might have to make the walls .81mm thick (not .41) to get Cura to slice it. But the "black magic" feature is worth trying. Make sure you look at the results in slice view before deciding if it worked.

Ultimaker support will usually send you free parts even if you broke them yourself or lost them yourself and even if you are past the warranty. Not always - but usually.

Can't you just drill the pulley's out? Or are they too *big*?

At times they've been 2 weeks but lately I think they are happy that they got it down to 4 days. So I would suspect about 4 days. If you call them during their work hours (M-F, 5am to noon your time) they often answer instantly. Their english is great. Really great. In fact I feel sorry for all those Europeans who don't speak english and call tech support. At least the 2 people I've met (I think they have more now). For UM2 you get tech support here in USA but for UMO I think it's Netherlands.

And to cover the top of the printer - One of those boxes that holds paper is the perfect size in all 3 dimensions. These boxes are from office supply companies like stapes and are sitting around near photocopy machines at work. Tape it to the top of the UM2 and there will be a nice gap in the back for the bowden to move around. With a front door and a top, and with the bed at 100C to 110C you will get an air temp of around 40C which means your ABS will shrink half as much as normal during the printing phase (and then shrink the second half after printing is done. This is now similar to PLA. PLA shrinks about .3% from glass temp to room temp (60C to 20C). ABS shrinks about .6% from glass temp to room temp (100C to 20C).

Well... I guess if you are already printing at the limits of what the feeder can do then you can only print 4X faster. And if you like to keep the speed slow for high-quality look I guess you also can only go 4X faster because you don't want to increase mm/sec but you are printing with a linearly wider nozzle and you can print thicker layers. So I guess my 8X claim doesn't work in either case. :(

Register on 3dhubs. They use Cura to calculate volume and bill a fixed cost plus volume. You can set the pricing you want. They appear to take very little money themselves - not sure. The cura engine can be run from the command line. Cura is broken into 2 parts - the GUI and the slicing engine. The slicing engine is I believe a C program (or mabye c++). You can pass it an stl and a profile (profile has all the settings) and it will generate a gcode file. Near the top of the gcode file I think is a comment with the volume. But I wouldn't do any of this - I would use 3dhubs. They take care of everything (collecting money, working out disputes, advertising, rating your print results...). Also I suppose in theory after you get a relationship with a client you can take future business "on the side". This probably violates 3dhubs policy.

Only if you print at the same layer height! If you also double the layer height then you get 8 times the throughput! It seems a bit silly to me to print a .8mm nozzle with .1mm layer height - makes more sense to go maybe .4mm layer height.

from UltiArjan:

Moved alternate nozzle size discussion to other thread! This thread is for discussing what is in the original post.

Consider peeling back the sticker in the center of the fan and if you can see the bearing in there add a drop of oil. I'm sure many fans will work just fine. Ideally I think you want a "blower" and not a "fan". Fans have blades like a propellor - typically 5 blades. Blowers have typically 30 blades and use centrifugal force and can withstand much more back pressure. I don't know if german suppliers use different words for the 2 kinds of devices.