gr5

I don't print much ABS but in PLA the fix is to use more fan. MUCH more fan. Add window fans, turn on a vacuum cleaner backwards and blow a hurricane at the thing: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/page-4&do=findComment&comment=82015 Now with ABS, it shouldn't need nearly as much fan. ABS has problems with layer adhesion - you need the current hot layer to be hot enough to melt the layer below slightly so that you get a good solid bond. It's very easy in ABS to print too cold or to have too much fan and result in bad layer adhesion. So with ABS you want the highest possible fan but still get good layer bonding. Older slicers work better with ABS and they will turn the fan on during overhang passes and off on the rest of the layer. That's like on and off every few seconds. This is ideal. Cura is written in the "age of PLA" and so doesn't have this feature (overhang fan).

Easiest thing to do is to scale up by 25.4 in cura but I'm sure when you export to STL there is an option somewhere to do it in mm units.

Consider printing this extruder test: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/

You have a defective 3rd fan. Check to make sure nothing fell into it but some people get noisy ones. Mine is so quiet it is very hard to detect. Very hard. In a silent house I can't hear it until about 5 feet away and just barely. It is quieter than a typical refrigerator by a factor of maybe 1000x. Regarding the cube - you have underextrusion. It's intermittent. There are about 30 possible causes of underextrusion. With such a new machine I would first guess that you have filament issues on the back of the machine. Try putting the filament on the floor - this can make an immense difference! The angle that it comes into the feeder can be a problem. Also check the filament for tangles. Also loosen all the 4 long screws slightly. Sometimes they overtighten them at the factory. Make sure they are only finger tight. What is the hottest you let the nozzle get to since you received the printer? Other possibilities: - deformed isolator - clogged nozzle (partially clogged) - tangled filament - filament grinding feeder at entrance or on white part and carrying ptfe up through tube to nozzle - feeder spring too loose or too tight - bowden pushing too hard down against isolator - pt100 nozzle sensor off by 20C such that nozzle is 20C cooler than you think - pt100 nozzle off by 20C such that nozzle got very hot (say 290C) and wrecked the isolator - Filament > 3.00mm - Feeder servo too hot causing filament to soften/flatten - tangled filament, filament rubbing too hard on side of feeder

This is often because the end caps are too tight. You should be able to move the head using the smallest finger on each hand placed on the two blocks on either side of the head.

Robot fuzz does not support latest hbk nor um plus.

Did you measure the filament? Is it actually 3mm diameter? Or 2.9? 3mm filament is not supposed to actually be 3mm. That is the absolute upper limit. Typically it is 2.85 or 2.9mm. Not 3.0mm. If it reaches 3.01mm it will probably clog in the bowden.

The next picture in my gallery is one I took. Just about right. The pink filaments photos were taken I believe by Simon/Illuminarti.

The one on the left is not enough. The one on the right looks maybe a little too tight.

The UM2 splits the extruder into 2 separate parts - the feeder on the back of the machine and the nozzle on the print head. This makes the print head very light weight and you can have accelerations of 5000mm^3/sec. So I don't think it would make sense to use these extruders on the UM2 head.

Do you have a UMO or a UM2? Please update your profile to indicate which printer you have.

Yes. Severe underextrusion. What print speed, temperature and layer height are you using (these are the 3 variables that affect underextrusion - knowing only 2 of them is useless). Here's a chart with suggested print speeds - use half the value of the blue line in the chart for a given temperature (the blue line is absolute maximum): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/

It's not accurate enough. The paper is .1mm thick and if you are putting down .1mm layer for bottom layer you want an accuracty of about .03mm. So you just print the skirt or print anything and the traces laid down should be .4mm wide and .1mm thick. The thickness is difficult to check but the .4mm width part is easy. You can use a ruler, a micrometer or just look at two traces and 2 traces should be twice as wide as one as they will be spaced .4mm apart. Or you can make sure the trace looks to be about 4X wider (.4mm) than it is high (.1mm). It's easier than you might think. And you can do it live *while* it prints. Although I tend to adjust this on every print for a while until I get the leveling perfect. I usually adjust all 3 screws the same amount. But sometimes one side/corner needs to be higher or lower. Just do small adjustments and it will slowly get better each time.

You should increase the tensions on the feeder spring a bit I think. I would expect the teeth markes to be a little deeper. You should be able to achieve similar print speeds to the UM2 which is about 10mm^3/sec at 230C so at .1 mm layers that would be 250mm/sec. That's kind of the top end. More data in the form of pictures and text here (post #2) which was done before UM2 existed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=13194

That's bad. Better to click than have the filament slip. There is a test you can run to see if something is wrong with your printer. Make sure the feeder is tight enough so that it's making good impressions in the filament and sometimes clicks backwards. Then at 230C print this test cylinder: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ Also realize that the printer can barely print at 10mm^3/sec at 230C. At lower temps it needs to print much slower. In fact I recommend printing at half the value of the dark blue line in this graph - the dark blue line is the absolute limit: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ If you can't print above say 7mm^/sec on the cylinder at 230C then it's time to figure out what is wrong with your printer. But 8 to 10mm^3/sec failures I consider "normal".

I think the inner diameter is 1/8 inch probably (3.175mm). Make sure to get 3X what you need because the tolerance isn't great and you need to test the inner diameter and discard any sections that are too thin. This tubing is easy to get in the USA but I don't know about other parts of the world. I think it's used by Air Conditioners so any company that sells AC parts.

Support is crazy busy. It may take a few weeks. But if you call them during normal working hours in The Netherlands you can usually get instant service.

it's trivial (takes seconds) to loosen all the end caps and see if that makes a difference. Belts too tight can also increase friction. My belts are rather loose. Just tight enough to make a pitch. Anyway, use light oil on the rods. Any light oil will do. Any brand. Preferably without many additives.

PLA plastique va fondre se il est laissé à des températures suffisamment chaudes pour tuer des gens. L'environnement le plus commun est l'intérieur d'une voiture avec les vitres fermées en été dans le parking ensoleillé beaucoup. Cependant laissé à l'extérieur dans le soleil et la pluie PLA peut contenir jusqu'à très bien. Je ai vu des pièces résistent rayonnement ultraviolet pendant quelques années sans changement. Si vous vous souciez de températures élevées, vous pouvez utiliser d'autres matériaux comme l'ABS ou XT ou "haute température PLA". Désolé pour la mauvaise traduction.

1) If the bottom layer seems over or underextruded it's more dependent on your leveling than anything else. By default Cura prints a .3mm bottom layer so you don't have to level quite as perfectly. But I recommend you move the bed up or down a little with the screws so you get perfectly flattened skirt. Do this live while printing. Do only small adjustments at a time - maybe 1/2 turn at the most. 1/4 turn more typical. 2) That's not stringing - that's typical overhang issues. 3) The "shifting" is very exact at the eyes. Look at the pattern - each shift is the same height as each eye. It's caused by backlash which again could be too much friction or overly loose belts. You can tell that the nozzle is moving right to left in this orientation of the photo with the eyes and doesn't return completely to the proper "wall" position before extruding the wall. Did you check the friction of X versus Y? Did you try loosening the end caps?

I recommend Arial font because it has a consistent width unlike some fonts which get fatter and skinnier. Nozzle/sheel width of .3 looks fine so I would say minimum of .61mm wide. Keep in mind that as you go around corners of a font it may get slightly skinnier and wider due to the nature of the curves of the font and due to precision errors. I also recommend you print extra small font with high flow - e.g. 150%. If you plan to do this kind of font printing like I did - look at the pictures carefully. The text was .1mm thick (very very careful/perfect leveling done by trial and error moving the screws and *not* by using the leveling procedure!). The white part was modeled, sliced and printed as a completely separate part with the bottom layer .3mm thick. This is important: .1mm for text, .3mm for bottom layer of part. Also note that the "J" part in the 3rd picture had only 100% flow on a .31mm nozzle/shell setting (with actual .4mm nozzle) so I had to redo that part with 200% flow to make it look good. These are drink clips so each person knows which cup is their own.

.2mm is fine if you print at slower speeds. For me, the best quality/speed compromise on UM2 (and UMO) is around .2mm layer height but 30mm/sec print speed. Of course you can get the exact same flow rate with .1mm layer height and 60mm/sec but I think the parts look better at 30mm/sec. In other words I think the quality improvement of printing .1mm layer is not as important as the quality improvement of printing slower. This is because parts look best if the extruder never speeds up or slows down and it has to slow down to around 28mm/sec on each corner. Also I like the look that the layer lines make. It says "this part was 3D printed". It's like a badge built into every print. And .2mm is damn tiny.

@nicolinux: stephenson and suarez are also 2 of my favorite authors. Have you read Stephen Gould's "Jumper" series? Amazing. And the Ender's game series and the first (but not the rest) "shadow" books that go with Ender's game. These are all easy reads and some say "youth fiction" but awesome none the less. Or the "silo" series by Hugh Howey.

40 watts. Okay. So I would start with this one: // Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08 #define DEFAULT_Kd 114 Are you building marlin yourself okay? If not use marlinBuilder mentioned above and choose these values: