gr5

Those change from version to version so unless I install the same version of Cura I don't know what that is. I haven't used quickprint for about 2 years. To find out what speed it is, slice at quickprint-normal, then save the gcode, then switch cura to "full settings" mode. Then click "file" "Load profile from GCode..." then you will see the speed. It's important to know the speed and different version of Cura change this so I recommend you never use "quickprint".

swordriff verkauft Heizung Sensoren. Nachricht ihn direkt hier: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/26134-swordriff/

I agree with everything danilus wrote except the above statement. It pulls/pushes with about 5kg force which is more than I can push on that skinny little filament without breaking the filament and hurting myself. Typically. Plus after 30 seconds of pushing with 5kg force with 2 fingers I get tired fast. Try feeding filament without using the motor but with the head hot - it's hard work! There's lots of pressure!

What the hell is 100% speed? What is the speed set to in Cura? I recommend you also print slower - it helps quite a bit for the filament to cool as it's coming out of the nozzle and be more solid as it the nozzle is leaving the filament behind. Otherwise it still has a lot of shrinking to do while still in it's liquid phase and ends up pulling like a liquid rubber band as it goes around the 2 outer corners.

By the way I"ve printed 50 degree from vertical slopes that looked better than this. The trick was MORE DAMN FAN. Anything less than 45 degrees should come out much better than this.

a 30 degree overhang (30 degrees from vertical) should be easy with UM2! Are you sure both fans are at 100% Maybe increase the infill so that it takes longer for the nozzle to come back to the same spot. Consider experimenting with .1mm versus .2mm layer height but I'm not sure that will make much difference. Definitely fan is important - adding more fan will help quite a bit. Printing cooler will help slightly. Rotating the part 180 degrees to get closer to the left fan should help a lot!

?? Leveling only affects the bottom layer and *sometimes* the second layer but that's it. Leveling the bed differently (turning the 3 screws in any combination of directions, amount) will not affect the 10th layer at all. Even if you are crooked by 1mm (printing in air on one side and on the glass on the other) within 5 or so layers things have recovered and leveling no longer maters for the remaining layers.

Why did you choose nozzle .3 by the way? And what is your shell thickness? 1.0? .8? I don't understand what the 10mm is about - did you mean 1.0mm? If you set, say, nozzle to .3mm and shell to .8mm it will print assuming .4mm nozzle and do exact same thing as .4mm nozzle and .8mm shell. But if you do .3mm nozzle and 1.0mm shell it will assume .33mm nozzle and make the passes of ALL INFILL and shell traces .33mm apart (instead of .4mm) and it will purposely undrextrude by 33/40 or equivalent of 82.5% flow - but this is not underextrusion because the traces are closer together so that these 2 changes work together and give you properly solid traces and shell.

I don't think it's shrinkage. I think it's backlash. But possibly not what you think "backlash" means. Shrinkage causes different problems than you are describing. There's 2 things that can cause backlash on UMO: 1) Loose belts - especially the ones to the motors. Tighten them by sliding the motors down while the 4 screws are loose. And make sure the long belts are tight enough to produce a tone/note of low pitch. But audible (>50Hz). 2) Friction. If the head has too much movement friction then when the motors stop the head hasn't moved quite all the way to the desired position. In both #1 and #2 above the head isn't moving all the way to the desired position. #2 is most often fixed by loosening the end caps. The head should move quite easily by pushing the side blocks only with the smallest finger on each hand (push both blocks together). #2 can also be caused by long belts too tight (crazy huh? backlash can be long belts too tight *or* too loose!). #2 can also be helped a bit with some light oil (preferably with no additives).

Well if you can get the fans to spin with the TUNE menu then I suspect Cura isn't turning on the fans. Look at the gcode file that cura produces in any text editor (for example on a PC you can use notepad). gcode files are human readable. Use the editor's search feature to locate all fan commands M106. For example: M106 S127 <-- Sets the fan to 50% and M106 S255 <-- Sets the fan to 100% My fan doesn't come on until around 30% which is M106 S76. Your fan may vary a bit and need 40%. In Cura I set my "fan min" and "fan max" both to 100%. If you set the fan min to 0% I believe it won't turn on unless the layer time is less than the minimum layer time.

Excellent. At some point (probably now) you should probably stop using the leveling procedure. I haven't used it for about a year now. I just make small adjustments (quarter turn typically) with the 3 knobs (usually same amount on all 3) and eventually I got it perfect. bunching up around the hot end 90% of the time indicates you have too much space between the nozzle and hot end but I'd like to see a picture. Or alternatively it's not extruding enough at first either because a retraction occurred, an extruder skip occurred (both normal and in both cases they recover after after about 30mm in printing) or due to underextrusion. To test for underextrusion print even slower (.3mm is 3X the volume as .1mm so try even slower bottom layer just to see - slow feedrate to 50%). So one possibility is that it is still slightly clogged. Perhaps a 25% blockage. If slowing to 50% feedrate fixes it then assume you have partial clog. If instead it doesn't help and moving glass closer to nozzle fixes it then assume nozzle is fine. If you conclude nozzle needs more cleaning I recommend you find a wire that fits inside the nozzle hole such as a hypodermic or acupuncture needle.

I'm in Costa Rica but will be home Sunday night.

I'll take 2 for me. Do people still want me to order 10 and ship from usa? Or should I let anders take care of it?

I still use original feeder on my um2 which is now a little over a year old.

Ideally in cad you want an object with a flat bottom and walls. When you slice I recommend unchecking 'bottom'. This will reduce warping of corners. Also I recommend 20 percent infill. If you rotate 90 degrees you will get much higher resolution print but it might fall over. Do brim if you choose to do that.

Please don't use Imgur as those pics won't work years from now.

For overhangs you need extra fan.

There's lots of possibilities but clogged head is more likely. try a cold pull then try extruding *without* using the feeder to see if you are correct. You should be able to push/lift the filament firmly in or out the feeder such that you are doing the extruding instead of the motor. "maintenance" "advanced" "nozzle temperature" - set to 200C and then pull hard. It takes an impressive amount of force to get a little filament through. Cold pull aka atomic method found here - (do simpler version): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

It's time you invested in some hypodermic needles. I got mine in USA from here: http://www.healthwarehouse.com/needles-syringes/disposable-syringes/gauge/28-gauge http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_gauge_comparison_chart

And never print anything before checking it in layer view first! This will save you hundreds of times from a failed print!

Well at 10kpsi it's less flexible than ninjaflex and more flexible than the other taulman products. The "young's modulus" is the standard measure of flexibility. I posted the flexibility of several filaments here (post #22): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7710-print-more-than-260%C2%BAc-with-a-um2/page-2&do=findComment&comment=72654 The more flexible the filament is, the harder it is to push it through the bowden. I've printed ninjaflex and you have to oil it every meter or so to get it to go through the bowden and I've had to print it at 240C (hotter than normally recommended for ninjaflex) and very slow (10mm/sec) to get no underextrusion. Retraction doesn't work so good either. This filament from Taulman might be easier to print. I have found that all the Taulman products are somewhat too flexible for my needs and also are difficult to print for various reasons - mostly because nylon takes up a lot of water content which then boils when printing but other issues also. Taulman Bridge is probably the easiest to print and it is much more flexible than PLA or ABS.

Please post pictures. Your words don't make it clear to me and I'm too lazy to read your words and look at my machine or assembly instructions if you are too lazy to post pictures. I broke the same delrin clip on my UMO. To make a new clip I took a sheet of plastic that was the same thickness and drilled, sawed it to the same shape. It works great. I don't remember where I got the plastic - it was from some old electronics thing or maybe something in the recycling bin.

The slicer is probably crashing. After you load model B, change a parameter (such as layer height to 1mm which means many fewer slices and much less memory used) and see if you see the progress bar indicate slicing progress. Then change it back. If the progress bar doesn't go all the way across then the slicing engine is probably crashed or hung. The most common error is not enough memory - again with 1mm slices maybe it will finish. Typically 1 million polygons is around the limit I believe. Also is the object gray in normal view? Gray objects won't slice because they are outside of the print volume or other similar problem. If you view the new object in slice view does it show the new object and does it show it the way you expected? Always check slice view before saving and printing the gcode. I love sketchup but I don't use it much anymore because it is too easy to make non-solid models in sketchup. View your model in "xray" view also. If you see any red that means you have extra internal walls or holes in your walls such that certain parts are not solid and if that's true then cura might ignore parts of your model (maybe the new stuff you just added). You can fix in sketchup after identifying the red areas or you can alternatively try the 11 possible "fix horrible" checkboxes. Please post a few screen shots from Cura if you still have a problem - in particular the normal view, the xray view, and the slice view of the area that should have changed in your model.

Your best bet is probably to get it from makershed.com. Good luck!

calinb - this is a known bug and is fixed by removing "support" I believe. As pm_dude suggests.