gr5

Looks like some underextrusion in the infill. What is your infill speed? Also what printing temp (I will assume 200C) and layer height? Knowing those 3 numbers I can tell you if you are printing with reasonable parameters. If you *are* printing with reasonable parameters and still getting underextrusion you can further prove it by doing this test at 230C (test is only valid at 230C): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

This tells me your leveling is off. Levelling has two purposes: making the bed parallel to the printing gantry but also setting where Z=0 is located. Evidently yours is off. I recommend you do not do any more levelling and instead simply rotate the 3 levelling screws and reprint a single layer and measure it's thickness. Try to get it perfectly to the printed thickness within your tolerance for the entire print. Let me explain another way. If as you say your part is 25.6mm and last Z print height was 25.4 then you need to move the glass .2mm closer to the nozzle by turning the 3 screws. This will have the added benefit of squishing the plastic onto the glass more and you will get the parts to stick to the glass better.

Mine turns on consistently well before 50 (out of 255). I believe there might be a sticker on the fan. If so, peel it off and underneath you should be able to see part of the bearing. Add one drop of light oil and re-apply the sticker. When not printing you can experiment with fan speeds using the ulticontroller. You have to select the fan speed and then it won't change until you press the controller knob once. If you want to try to fix only in software, Cura by default doesn't go full fan until 5mm. I long ago changed that to 1mm. You can set that even lower if you want. I recommend 0 fan for the first layer to get it to stick well.

Yes, definitely. Also it has more trouble going through the isolator when curved like this.

I didn't notice the noise until it was mentioned and then I had to move to within a foot of the extruder motor to really hear it clearly. I think it was 1/32 microstepping. 1/32 is much quieter than 1/16 but 1/64 is even quieter. I'm told.

What do you mean by "stops"? All 4 servos stop moving and freeze up mid-printing touching model still? Or the XY axes move to home position and display stops showing Z height and such? Or XY keep moving but Extruder stops moving? Or XY,E keep moving but nothing comes out? What kind of printer do you have? Oh I see it's UMO. Plese update your user settings to indicate that you have a UMO.

Whistle? You mean like a very high pitch? That only young people can hear? I did some experiments with a new tinyG board that had 1/32 microstepping and the steppers were amazingly quiet but the young guy I was working with (Jaime from Ultimaker) was very annoyed by the high pitch. I barely noticed it but it seemed to be coming from the stepper motors. Although maybe I should have put my ear up to the board itself (or maybe I did and discounted it, I don't remember). Is that what you are talking about?

I found 1300ma to be much more force than 1250 but 1350 and higher was no better and actually by around 1500ma it was less force. I have no idea why.

Printing a flat lithopane is trivial as dimensioneer says - just load it. But if you want a curved surface it's more complicated. Here is one way to do it (second post): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7779-printing-from-pictures/

Sometimes when Marlin is updated the values in eeprom are not updated. Marlin looks at the old version and the new version and only resets them all if it is a major version change. So you might want to do a "reset to factory defaults" which will reset all the motion settings (vmax, jerk, steps/mm, etc).

Found the answer. Macor.

A question for all you other people who read *everything* on the forum... There was discussion in the last 2 months about a material that is VERY expensive but not too bad in small quantites that can be machined to the shape of the isolator. It is not a metal material (molten PLA sticks to steel for example). It is not PEEK. It is some new material I never heard of. Where is that thread? I can't find it anymore.

@muttstang: Are you sure? You seem to be describing flexidrive. It uses a speedometer cable to drive a head mounted extruder. What is different about your idea?

By the way Steve has many more PDFs like this one testing other properties but some of those mention the suppliers by name so he has to "scrub" them before they can be published here.

I learned this past week that Ultimaker uses multiple suppliers for their existing filament. I assume the three different suppliers consist of existing and potential suppliers. Steve wants to get the best material for each color that UM sells. "best" is complicated when you include things like strength, flexibility, print flow, glass temp, layer adhesion, shininess, color consistency, etc.

If the entire light box is sided with mirrors or white paper then you get lots of extra light as the light that misses your object bounces off the walls and you get a second chance to light your part. So if you want a black background make it as small as possible. Or add more lights.

Don't know. But I do know that Steve now has 4 UM2 printers in his office (he got 2 more). All covered with yellow tape. I didn't notice the feeders but the hot ends look normal/standard. I suspect there are no changes other than maybe newer isolator.

ultiArjan has good advice. There are several fixes but I like ultiArjans. Did you design this part? Consider: 1) Flip part over. 2) Instead use bridging. Bridging is easier to print see photo here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#overhangs

This is the simplest test for underextrusion. Give it a shot. Make sure to do the test at 230C so that it is valid: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ Put your spool of filament on the floor so it doesn't enter the feeder at an angle. I'm not 100% sure that is underextrusion but it looks like it. It wasn't *any* worse at colder temps?

There's nothing wrong with direct flash - except if it is near the camera (and it's usually *on* the camera). Having the flash right where the camera is makes for the worst possible location. Move that flash 3 feet to the right and woah - suddenly it looks good. But diffusion is good too - let everyone share the light. The cheapest cameras take awesome photos outdoors during the day when there are some clouds blocking the sun. Whatever amount of light you think you have/need, try 100X and your pictures will look so much better. Instead of 1 60 W light, how about 10 500W lights? lol. one 500W light might be enough but 10 are even better.

Dans le post ci-dessus les 2 dernières photos ont été imprimées sur Ultimaker origine. La première image sur Ultimaker 2. L'image de robot blanc était une tentative de meilleure qualité possible. Il a fallu quelques jours pour obtenir les bons réglages pour ce niveau de perfection. Le robot de plus bleue à gauche est un exemple d'impression trop froid (pas une bonne impression). La qualité de l'Ultimaker origine et Ultimaker 2 sont identiques pour autant que je peux dire.

Steve from Ultimaker does material tests. He tests many properties of PLA. It turns out that Ultimaker gets it's PLA from multiple vendors and they are trying to get only the best it seems. This is only one test (he does lots of strength tests also for example). Steve asked me to publish his findings on the forum for him. It's interesting to see the variability he found between printers, manufacturers and colors. Anyway this is extrusion rates for various manufacturers and colors: http://gr5.org/PLA_u...usion_tests.pdf The data closely agrees with my tests (blue line on first graph): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/

Steve from Ultimaker does material tests and did a more thorough test that concentrated more on different manufacturers but on average got almost identical data - this is very thorough and informative!: http://gr5.org/PLA_u...usion_tests.pdf

Wow. Sounds like it comes out in 2016. From the above link: