gr5

I'm not sure how to read the log - I'm thinking you get the exact same lines added to the end of the log file each time you print. I think the gcode file is corrupt. Did you save it and look at it? I would look at the 1045th line in the file. Look for "26" such as M26, G26 or just plain "26". I'd also consider deleting everything in the log file and trying one more time to see what happens. Hopefully Daid will respond here. I haven't tried USB printing for almost 2 years so I really am not familiar with debugging techniques if you don't have an ulticontroller.

Oh - and the clicking sound is on purpose - it's the extruder stepper motor skipping backwards because there's too much pressure on the filament. It can get up to about 5kg of force (that's a lot - like 100psi inside the nozzle) before skipping backwards. Much more force and you grind away the filament so this "skipping back" is actually a feature.

Support is a week or two behind. They will eventually get back to you although the phone is much more succesful. You can poke around all you want and won't void the warranty just from removing screws and stuff. I think there is a sticker on the heated bed with a warranty warning so don't mess with that without talking to them first. 260C is hot enough to turn PLA and ABS into a gunk that will clog your nozzle. I recommend the "atomic method" to clean it out - that's the easiest thing to do: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 What material were you printing? PLA? If that doesn't work then you can try sticking a hypodermic or acupuncture needle up the nozzle and do atomic method at same time. If *that* doesn't work I'd take it all apart and remove the nozzle/heater assembly and cook all the plastic out with a gas flame. Google the procedure. People have made videos too. read/watch how other people took it all apart before taking the thermocouple out yourself.

First of all never print anything without checking in layer view first. That would have made it more obvious. Also I recommend setting infill to 20% only if to check how it looks in layer view as that makes it more easy to see what is "inside" and "outside". All the red areas in xray view are a problem but often you can ignore that and fix the model with one of the 11 possible combinations of "fix horrible" (never check both A and B - that leaves 11 combinations). If not then you can fix it in meshlab (which is free). Here are some hints: http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html xray view shows white or shades of blue if a beam traveling from your eye passes through an even number of faces. If it passes through an odd number it ends up red. That implies either a hole or an extra face.

Google this error and add "cura" to the search and you get this answer: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3336-problem-in-building-curaengine/

Changing current is dangerous so buy a spare driver first (google "pololu" if you want a cheap, well built replacement). They blow up easily. Clockwise versus counterclockwise is different for the several different servo drivers. Somewhere google will find you a photo of the 5 different kinds that UM sells and which way to turn them. You can measure the voltage at the tiny potentiometer or at the nearby via. That voltage is a constant of the max current. In other words, 0V means 0amps, 5V means 5*constant Amps. I don't remember the formula but you can google "pololu" for more details and the exact formula.

1) Controller? You mean power brick? The black thing? Or did you remove the bottom cover? 2) Was the display black? 3) Please update your country in your location settings, thanks. If the printer won't print but the display is lit up just fine then there may be a simple fix. If the blinking red is on the brick then there also may be a simple fix. I've had problems with my Ultimaker power bricks that was fixed by leaving it unplugged for a long time (like a day). It should be blue solid when working.

I don't have a pdf editor unfortunately. UltiArjan - did you also ask me about antishake video software? I forget who asked me where to get it - I owe someone my cheat sheet on doing anti-shake.

Another possibility is "MAX temp" error. If you have an ulticontroller this is displayed on the screen. If not I don't know how to tell - make sure you are using the full "pronterface" mode in Cura print view. This mode shows you MUCH more details about what is happening while printing.

1) Do you have an ulticontroller? If so does it display anything in particular? If so are you using the SD card as this is much much more reliable. 2) It could be a pause command. Check to make sure you don't have anything in the "plug in" tab in Cura. Make sure no plug ins are enabled. In fact try enabling one to see how it looks different and then removing it atain. 3) Most likely it's either corrupt file on the SD card (just copy the file fresh) or USB issues. Cura logs all the USB transfer errors into a file somewhere. I'm going to predict there are thousands of checksum errors in there. The best fix is to get an ulticontroller but many people have gotten the USB working by trying different cables (shorter is better) or different computers, or using a USB hub to bugger the USB signals and increase their strength (voltage). USB is very unreliable with Arduinos.

In sketchup the default surface is white on the outside, gray on the inside. You can right click on any triangle and swap sides. This could take many days if you have hundreds of thousands of triangles that need swapping. Fortunately Cura has a "fix horrible" option to take care of this. While I love sketchup, it's not very good for models to be printed.

It was explained in excruciating detail above.

Looks like some underextrusion in the infill. What is your infill speed? Also what printing temp (I will assume 200C) and layer height? Knowing those 3 numbers I can tell you if you are printing with reasonable parameters. If you *are* printing with reasonable parameters and still getting underextrusion you can further prove it by doing this test at 230C (test is only valid at 230C): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

This tells me your leveling is off. Levelling has two purposes: making the bed parallel to the printing gantry but also setting where Z=0 is located. Evidently yours is off. I recommend you do not do any more levelling and instead simply rotate the 3 levelling screws and reprint a single layer and measure it's thickness. Try to get it perfectly to the printed thickness within your tolerance for the entire print. Let me explain another way. If as you say your part is 25.6mm and last Z print height was 25.4 then you need to move the glass .2mm closer to the nozzle by turning the 3 screws. This will have the added benefit of squishing the plastic onto the glass more and you will get the parts to stick to the glass better.

Mine turns on consistently well before 50 (out of 255). I believe there might be a sticker on the fan. If so, peel it off and underneath you should be able to see part of the bearing. Add one drop of light oil and re-apply the sticker. When not printing you can experiment with fan speeds using the ulticontroller. You have to select the fan speed and then it won't change until you press the controller knob once. If you want to try to fix only in software, Cura by default doesn't go full fan until 5mm. I long ago changed that to 1mm. You can set that even lower if you want. I recommend 0 fan for the first layer to get it to stick well.

Yes, definitely. Also it has more trouble going through the isolator when curved like this.

I didn't notice the noise until it was mentioned and then I had to move to within a foot of the extruder motor to really hear it clearly. I think it was 1/32 microstepping. 1/32 is much quieter than 1/16 but 1/64 is even quieter. I'm told.

What do you mean by "stops"? All 4 servos stop moving and freeze up mid-printing touching model still? Or the XY axes move to home position and display stops showing Z height and such? Or XY keep moving but Extruder stops moving? Or XY,E keep moving but nothing comes out? What kind of printer do you have? Oh I see it's UMO. Plese update your user settings to indicate that you have a UMO.

Whistle? You mean like a very high pitch? That only young people can hear? I did some experiments with a new tinyG board that had 1/32 microstepping and the steppers were amazingly quiet but the young guy I was working with (Jaime from Ultimaker) was very annoyed by the high pitch. I barely noticed it but it seemed to be coming from the stepper motors. Although maybe I should have put my ear up to the board itself (or maybe I did and discounted it, I don't remember). Is that what you are talking about?

I found 1300ma to be much more force than 1250 but 1350 and higher was no better and actually by around 1500ma it was less force. I have no idea why.

Printing a flat lithopane is trivial as dimensioneer says - just load it. But if you want a curved surface it's more complicated. Here is one way to do it (second post): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7779-printing-from-pictures/

Sometimes when Marlin is updated the values in eeprom are not updated. Marlin looks at the old version and the new version and only resets them all if it is a major version change. So you might want to do a "reset to factory defaults" which will reset all the motion settings (vmax, jerk, steps/mm, etc).

Found the answer. Macor.

A question for all you other people who read *everything* on the forum... There was discussion in the last 2 months about a material that is VERY expensive but not too bad in small quantites that can be machined to the shape of the isolator. It is not a metal material (molten PLA sticks to steel for example). It is not PEEK. It is some new material I never heard of. Where is that thread? I can't find it anymore.

@muttstang: Are you sure? You seem to be describing flexidrive. It uses a speedometer cable to drive a head mounted extruder. What is different about your idea?