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Oh - this sounds totally different from what you described before. So every answer you heard so far you should ignore. I don't think you mentioned that it worked up until 3 hours before. That's new information, right? I got the impression that nothing every came out of the nozzle. You should not wait 4 days to provide that key point. Okay - lots of things can cause this. The first that comes to mind is that after 3 hours the feeder motor gets too hot and the heat transfers to the PLA and softens it. You can easily verify this by looking at the PLA at the feeder and just above the feeder. If you have this particular problem (which isn't hard to fix) then the filament will be all flattened). Also what country are you in? Is it hot there? Please update your profile to specify what printer you have (UM2) and what country you live in. Woah! I just noticed the pictures are working now in your first post. Were those working before? You have some serious underextrusion in the last 20 or so layers. softening PLA could cause that. Or bad temperature probe - very easy to test. First things first - check for flattened filament. Another possibility - well, we'll get to that if I'm wrong about the first possibility. Hopefully you won't wait another 4 days to reply.

yes. And you only have to link to the source if they have "attribution". Even if later the person *changes* the license. If they *ever* licensed it CC (without non-commercial) then you can sell prints. Of course someone may have illegally posted it and it may actually by copyrighted by a 3rd person who actually created the design. Very difficult to check.

Welcome, Aaron. What is "G.R."? I just joined e-nable recently. I plan to print one out "soon". But right now my primary project is my quadcopter. Perhaps we will be able to share e-nable prints tips.

I agree with labern. You need to find something metal and strong and rub it around the inside of the nozzle hole. I had the same exact issue and this fixed it the first time I rubbed metal around and around followed by one last atomic clean. Basically scraping off some last bit of gunk in the nozzle tip. I purchased some hypodermic needles (extra small) for this. Acupuncture needles also work well. Make sure they are >.2mm and < .4mm in diameter.

You should be able to do it all from the back. Look at the schematic that I posted above. I don't know where all the good test points are. 19V obviously at the connector.

To answer your question - in the "h" file you can do: external int my_variable; And in *one* of the c files do: int my_variable = -1; But this only works if there are no IFDEF or IFNDEF statements accessing that variable.

For yes/no flags (or "direction" in this case) you can do an IFDEF and have it compile one set of code versus another. So there is a decent performance improvement with this kind of thing. It eliminates an entire section of code and an extra "if" statement. For "steps_per_mm" kind of variables you aren't going to have any IFDEF statements so the performance difference is small if any (fetching value from code memory versus fetching from ram).

1) Are you printing through USB or using the SD card? 2) Do you have a multimeter? Do you know how to use it? You should check the voltage of a few key parts. You want to monitor the 24V, 12V and 5V supplies when the problem occurs to see which supply is causing the problems because each one requires a different fix. I mean if 24V is fine but either 12V or 5V is not then it's definitely the white PCB. ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

By the way, the Z-hop idea is clever. I should try that next time. I didn't use that feature myself.

I've done some quite a few of these myself - your prints are very nice. One of the key things from blecheimer is that the white portion (the part itself) must have a much thicker bottom layer than the initial one layer prints - from above: which is significantly thicker than his .1mm layers of the other colors. Note also that his white part (e.g. the circle) above does *not* know about the text such that it just prints a "flat bottom" on top of the text/colors. I did the same thing. There is no need to avoid the colored areas - the filament just flows in and around the letters. Some of my work:

UM2 got best printer in their printer shoot-off last month. UMO+ is half the price and the quality is just as good but you have to spend 20 hours putting it together. Seriously consider using shapeways.com to print up some prototypes. They will be nylon which is more flexible unfortunately than PLA but the quality is professional. UM2 3d printed parts have a look - they are clearly 3d printed. They do not look quite as professional. But they do look very good. If you are patient and print slow the quality is pretty good but never perfect. The form1 however prints much higher quality. I guess it all depends what you are printing. If it is a simple box to house electronics then UM2 sounds like a good solution. If it is much larger like a plastic chair, then I don't think that would be smart. Parts with overhangs are difficult (but doable) and leave uglier surfaces on overhangs. So you might want to design your part so you can print it with no overhangs more than 45 degrees (bridging is fine - you can print the top of a window opening no problem as long as it is horizontal). I mean the UM2 will go to 80 degrees from vertical but the quality is not so good.

For Ultimaker2, it's best to use "ultigcode" mode which allows you to control the temperature on the machine itself. For Ultimaker Original you *must* use normal gcode mode which allows you to control the temperature in Cura. Switching between machine types in Cura makes the temperature appear and disappear in the gui. Even for UMO prints I set temperature to 0C and controll it on the machine instead.

Yes, but simply leave it set to 0C to "disconenct" it. Cover the glass in blue painters tape and re-level. Clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (very important step or parts won't stick well). Now you can print PLA parts just fine until you get a "good" power supply. Make sure you mark your power supply clearly so you don't get it confused with the new one when it arrives.

If you order a new nozzle, hopefully it will ship from Memphis, and not Ultimaker. You could contact fbrc8.com directly and see if they will ship from there. That nozzle is basically ruined. I've seen this on other nozzles on this forum and that large flat area will drastically hurt quality of prints.

I'm certain ultimaker employees have tried it. Or reprap designers. But I don't know.

This guy sells all sizes including .8: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duse-nozzle-v2-0-7-3mm-Reprap-Ultimaker-3D-Drucker-Mendel-Prusa-Hotend-/121479291945?pt=DE_Computer_Sonstige&hash=item1c48bae429 These are under $2 each from china (be patient it doesn't take all that long - usually under 2 weeks - sometimes a month): http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-lot-3D-Printer-Nozzle-0-3mm-0-4mm-Extruder-Print-Head-for-Ultimaker-3-D-/111503047822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19f6197c8e They aren't .8mm but you can drill them out.

Don't get "free" as in "no money" confused with "free" as in "free to edit, customize". For example, Redhat charges for some of their "free" software that is free to edit. Most of the licenses on thingiverse and youmagine are CC (creative commons). This makes things very easy as there is very little to learn. If the license says: non-commercial: Then no you may not sell it. Not the model. Not the print (this is arguable but this is what the person intended and they should try to sue you if you violate this). Even if you just want to print it and show it at a trade show you may not. attribution: You must tell people who made the model and where they can download it. share-alike: If you make *any* edits to the model you *must* share them also using the same license. So if you improve a model or combine two models into one and either model has the share-alike you must publish your shared model with the source (cad file or stl file). Anywhere people can download or buy the model there should be (nearby) a link to the source. The default seems to be attribution only, or none of the above. If none of the above are part of the CC license then you can do anything including claiming it as your own work. That's my understanding. You should read more details. Perhaps here: https://creativecommons.org/

I don't think you can. I never figured it out anyway. However if you enable the detailed output and compile again, it shows where the resulting hex file is. You can move that to a safer folder and use Cura to load it onto your arduino under "machine" "install custom firmware".

You are validated now. I didn't have to do anything. You don't need to validate to post images - but you do need to validate to send messages to people directly. To upload an image click "gallery" on the top left of this page, then the big upload button. To put the photo in your post, start a new post and click on "my media" next to smile icon.

I agree, use only "english" letters and dont use any non letters. Especially single quotes, double quotes, backslash, apostrophe. And make sure it ends with ".gcode". I think if it ends with ".g" it is invisible or something. I think this is a feature. Not sure - never tried it.

By the way when the temp gets within 10C of the goal the PID controller kicks in and things start to slow down. So if I set the thermostat to 50C it takes longer than 2:16 to get there.

These numbers come from UMO HBK but they should be identical to UM2 as it's the same power supply and same bed: minute:sec temp 0 10C 2:16 50C (this is temp I usually print PLA) 3:25 60C 4:48 71C 6:03 80C 8:04 90C 10:43 100C I usually print ABS at 110C. It's a long time to wait but it's worth it. If I did ABS every day I think I would consider adding more insulation somewhere - maybe bottom side of the heater.

I would skip zsteps, esteps, and temperature. I would leave X and Y alone. I don't think there is anything to gain in those areas. However for UMO you can make the Z axis much faster by increasing acceleration. I doubled mine (long forgot from what to what) and this greatlyl reduces any Z scaring because switching layers is more of a click than a move - very fast. On the UM2 I think the Extruder can probably go much faster. Someone should play with extruder acceleration and max velocity. I have a feeling it can go maybe 10X faster. If retractions were more of a click than a zip, that would not just speed up prints but it should improve quality also.

With power off it's safe to push the head around. Push it back and forth in X and Y and see if something feels wrong or looks wrong. I suspect it will be fine.

All the noises sound normal. The most unusual, or the loudest noise is the Z drive. Everything stops while the Z moves. Is that what you mean? That's normal also. Maybe there is another sound that I didn't notice. I listened to the video 3 times. Maybe say how many seconds into the video you hear the sound? Did you mark all 6 X-axis pulleys and rods with a permanent marker yet?