gr5

For ABS on glass I recommend 110C heated bed temp, 245C print temp. I prefer hairspray for ABS but I have only printed 10 or so ABS prints so don't consider myself an expert. I use unscented hairspray. Spray on tissue then wipe on (so you don't get hairspray all over the inside of your printer).

When I first got my UM2 a year ago I did a lot of experiments printing on glass. I have the HBK for my UMO and everything still applies: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ PLA on glass If you don't want to read it all... For maximum sticking you need the PLA to be hot enough on the bottom layer to flow onto the glass. This means heat. For 20C air, 220C nozzle, this means about 45C minimum. Colder than 45C means it won't stick well at all. From 45C to 70C it's all the same stickiness (no difference). But if you have colder air or colder nozzle you need warmer glass. So I recommend 50C or 60C to be safe. In fact I recommend you do a bunch of experiments and print something that takes under 3 minutes to print and find a way to measure the force of removing that object. That was too much info. Anyway here is the trick for printing on glass (which is superior in every way to blue tape): 1) Get Elmer's wood glue (it's a pva glue like the glue stick- what country are you in?). Mix it 10 parts water to 1 part glue (this is not exact). Keep it in a glass jar with lid and shake well before each use. Use a cheap paint brush to spread onto the glass. Heat up the glass and don't print until the PVA is dry and so thin it is invisible. 2) Heated bed at 50C 3) Use brim option - extremely important 4) Bottom layer should be squished a bit. Consider moving the glass closer to the nozzle. If you have very large prints that are still warping you *might* have to print at 75C to keep the part above glass temp on the lower layers. I have never had to do this. Make sure you let it cool to 50C before removing or you will destroy the part as it is still soft like clay at 75C. Please update what country you are in on your settings.

Oh and also sometimes the filament gets stuck in the bowden. Please measure the filament and also maybe check if it flows smoothly through the bowden (difficult to do unless you detach from the feeder).

"printing in air" clogs can be caused by many things. Some people have feeder steppers that are too hot and the filament gets very soft at the feeder wheel especially if there are lots of retractions. I don't have this problem. But you can recognize it because you get a long section of flattened filament. There could be house dust. Or tangles in the filament. I recommend putting the filament on the floor so that it goes straight up into the feeder and not at an angle. It's possible to continue a "failed" print. I posted about this many times so you can google that on the forums. The key thing is to not let the glass bed cool down while you learn what to do. Otherwise the part "pops" off the glass. You may be printing too hot nozzle and the PLA gets gummed up after a long time (I kind of doubt this). Or maybe you are printing too fast. What is your layer height, print speed, nozzle temp?

I just remembered something - someone was able to get rid of those by lowering extrusion a bit - maybe you should try setting flow to 75% to see if that makes any difference. I will be curious to know if that makes any difference.

Often a different filament will give better results. But I'm not sure what is causing those lines. It's possible they are speed change points and ringing but I don't think so. Maybe some kind of oscillation pressure wave in bowden?

There are many possibilities. What you describe sounds like it might be underextrusion although the picture doesn't help very much. You may be right about the temperature. You can test the temperature with this method: You can test for other causes of underextrusion with this test print which must be done at 230C: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

You really need a fan. There is another part that can also easily get damaged - the 19V to 12V converter. It's the 3 pin part that sticks up into the airflow. So you should order a fan from ebay or something. Also did you try printing on it's side with a desk fan? Again - the printer prints just fine sideways.

Look at the second photo in this post. It discusses your issue. The quick answer is lower the temperature but not so much that you get underextrusion. Or lower the temp *and* lower the print speed.

It's called "stringing". Make sure retraction is happening. I think it's turned off in the quick print profiles so don't use quick print mode. If you still get stringing you could try a lower print temperature - maybe 200C and printing at 35mm/sec for a low temperature, high quality print. Look at the information in this first picture in this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

If you want a lithopane, then choose "load model file..." and then choose a photo. If you want to photograph, say your dog and then print out a 3d version of your dog you need dozens of pictures (where the dog doesn't move) and you can use 123dcatch. It's free. Google it.

Either that or you aren't cooling enough. For me 95C to 100C is cool enough to get it out in one piece without this much stretching in your photo. But maybe you need to cool slightly more or let it sit at 95C for a full minute.

When you heat the nozzle to 180C or hotter before doing the "atomic pull", also then push the filament into the feeder by hand - it will only move 5 to 10mm. Then let it cool to 90C and pull it out and it should look more "normal".

I'm not impressed. The color is awesome but the strength no different: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7575-strength-of-different-filaments/

Jerk is described here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5438-question-about-acceleration-jerk/

Do you have your own custom heated bed? If so you might want to go back to that version of Marlin or you can build one just for your heated bed here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ The versions of Marlin that come with Cura only deal with Ultimakers unusual version of a heated bed.

Did you read my posts in #3 above? I think you should read the first post in each of those topics/links even if things are working now. And definitely do the test.

You will be fine. The newer supply can supply one extruder and the heated bed. Or both supplies without the heated bed. If you need all 3 heaters then you need to use both supplies always. You still have the "old" supply for your printer - just skip the connecting power cable as mentioned earlier (I think in this thread).

Robert's design is clearly the most downloaded and most popular and I was shocked to see one on a UM2 at a mini makerFaire in Boston a few weeks ago. But there are at least 2 more feeders you missed that are more popular than ultiArjan's: 1) Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder: https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar 2) Sebastian design combines Robert's and Geek's designs - maybe this is the best choice of all! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder 3) Kevin Lee design (like tank treads): https://0x7d.com/2014/07/improved-ultimaker-2-material-extruder/ There's also the official "printable" version of the existing feeder with no changes other than a metal grommet added (the new UM2's have a metal gromet at the input to the feeder. I don't like this one because you can't remove the filament as easily like you can with the other designs: Ultimaker's design is in these three posts post #500: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=50304 Post #279: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330 post #268 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162 I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet. If I were to print one I think I would look carefully at Sebastians first because a large part of the underextrusion problems is the way the filament *enters* the feeder.

"failed prints" due to ejection of sim card can be "continued". Most important thing is to keep the bed hot while you research what to do as if the bed cools the part will often pop off the bed. Then you can go cry and sleep and then continue the print on a fresh new day. continuing/resuming failed print: read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um²-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

If you are in too much of a rush to fix this or figure it out, simply raise the temperature to 240C and print at half the speed you were printing and all should be good.

Yes, underextrusion. What speed/temp/layer height did you use? Here is the limit a UM2 can do: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Here is a good test. If you run this test it MUST be at 230C for any kind of valid comparison: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Here are some materials I've printed and how bendy/strong they are: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7575-strength-of-different-filaments/

Yes. The head can get up to 270C. So this means you can print Nylon also. There are also lots of PLA materials that include powders such as wood dust, stone dust, copper, bronze. Those all work okay. Also you can print "XT" which I think might be PET. And I believe you can print PET but I've never tried it. There are also some flexible materials (flexible PLA, filaflex, ninjaflex) which bowden printers like the UMO and UM2 have trouble with because it's like pushing a string and the feeder is far from the print head. But you can get it to work - you just have to print slowly and oil the filament. I've printed lots of things using ninjaflex. So basically look at the filament description and see the recomended print temperature. As long as it is 270C or less you should be fine.

Keep in mind that those servos are very tough. I think they can get up to 80C no problem, no damage. It's the filament that has trouble. You can of course print with ABS which can get up to 100C before it gets soft but ABS is more difficult to work with in general than PLA. Different brands of PLA have a small difference in glass temperature. You are using "UM" light blue filament I think. I have never had trouble but it's one of the worst filaments UM sells. It is a good filament but the other colors tend to be better. I don't know why. But I love my "UM light blue". It's my favorite color I think for showing off really detailed prints. I have never had your trouble but I also have air conditioning and the room never gets above 23C.