gr5

Hopefully anyone serious about buying a 3d printer will compare the UM2 to another brand and notice the little tiny badges and figure out that the first page only describes the badges, not the UM2.

This scares me. If someone as smart as valcrow who actually owns a UM2 got confused, how many others misunderstood also? The UM2 had no cons. ZERO CONS! Look at it again.

Your resolution is limited more by nozzle radius (limits X,Y resolution) than by Z. This is true on all of these FDM printers (printers that heat plastic through a nozzle). The nozzle hole diameter on UMO and UM2 is .4mm (radius .2mm) so .2mm radius curve is the tightest corner you can make on the 4 vertical edges of a cube. The top and bottom 8 edges are not limited by nozzle but by layer height as you say. Still most of the model is limited by XY more than Z. If you look at make magazine's recent report on similar 3d printers, the UM2 came out on top of all the other printers. http://cdn.makezine.com/make/magazine/V42-preview.pdf

I had a power supply that I gave up on and then a week later it works fine. I bought a 3rd power supply and all 3 work but sometimes they need to rest a few days. Once they come on and the printer starts printing I've never had a problem. It's only when the printer is off. This is probably unrelated to your problem. I also hear the very quiet "hissing" sometimes. I doubt there is any kind of serious short on your machine. I think it would be a more consistent problem. Contact support now because it may take a few weeks to get a new power supply if you are still in warranty. If you are no longer in warranty these power supplies are easy to find. But expensive. I also once had problems with K1 relay where my bed was cold and servos wouldn't move but everything else worked fine. Here is a video talking a little bit about the problem and a solution. The final solution (with advice from a founder of UM) was to jumper K1 out as it isn't really used:

It's a little frustrating because I feel like you have a flashlight and want to throw it away just because you put one of the batteries in backwards.

It's a pulley. It's very easy to prove it. It's very easy to fix it. Mark all 6 pulleys on the X axis (X axis only - yes there are six pulleys) with a pen like peggy says. Mark both the shaft and the pulley. One of the 6 is slipping. Most likely the one on the motor or the one above.

Another major problem for me when I first got my printer was USB printing. So incredibly unreliable. I haven't done that in 18 months.

I think I get better than 19/20 so I would say > 95%. Meaning 95% of the time it does *not* clog part way through, it does *not* get knocked off the bed, it does *not* curl up at the corners. The most common failure for me is lifted corners. By far. For me PLA is the easiest. I have much more trouble with ABS and Nylon. Possibly partly because I haven't printed as many objects in those but they have serious shrinking issues. It used to be my most common failure was first layer issues, but now that I have the metal and glass beds of the UM2 and the UMO HBK upgrade, that's not so common.

If you don't cut the filament to a point, sometimes it gets stuck inside the head. You can tell because nothing comes out of the nozzle. Is anything coming out of the nozzle? Or your nozzle could be clogged. Try the atomic method but also with a needle pushed from below through the nozzle hole. You can buy hypodermic or acupuncture needles at .35mm. Or you can remove the nozzle completely and burn out all the gunk with gas flame.

google "pololu" drivers in this forum like this, then after you choose a model number google that for pricing: So paste this into a google search: site:umforum.ultimaker.com pololu read about the 4988, 8825, and 4983 as a minimum. Also read about pololu "black" and "green".

You are correct: It doesn't matter. For anyone else who does this, make sure to measure the resistance using an ohm meter at the screws and it should read about 108 ohms. If it reads infinite ohms then check the 2 wires. If it's a short (<10 ohms) then it's probably a problem at the "old" pad where the old resistor was - maybe a solder bridge. 108 ohms is for 20C, you may get 90 or 130 ohms if your room is hotter or colder.

First of all I never use "change filament" on the menu since January (about 9 months now). I just pull it out and shove it in. Before feeding filament I always cut the tip off twice. At 2 different angles. To make it pointy. There are several "edges" that the filament can get stuck on - especially inside the print head. I also never start a print until the head is above 180C and I can push up on the filament and see some coming out the nozzle. What I think happened is your filament edge got stuck on something inside the print head.

There is a very small possibility that the X servo driver is adjusted wrong. You can cut power and swap the X and Y servo drivers and if this is the problem then it will move to the other axis.

The UMO should have come with a tiny bag of silver set screws. The pulleys come with black set screws which aren't quite as good. Although I still use the black ones, the silver ones have a pointier tip. Tighten the hell out of those set screws. The hex tool should bend/twist quite a bit.

I think I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a 3D printed person. Now I think you want a 2D picture on the surface of a phone cover. That doesn't require any artistic talent and just requires knowledge of software. Someone else here probably knows how to do that.

Please show in slice view or show actual part. I'm going to guess you simply need to turn off "brim". Or are the filled in all the way up? Try unchecking all the "fix horrible" settings in expert settings.

Is it a picture of a person or animal? or building/mechanical part? If it's NOT something with precise dimensions, something artistic, then I recommend this guy: contact@jariensky.com www.jariensky.com

Fan is very important for overhangs. And bridging also.

Although it could still be that the motor is too hot. As an experiment I would uncover the rear left steppers (only 2 screws hold on the white metal cover) and then blow a desk fan towards the extruder stepper (the lower one).

It sounds like a nozzle clog. Maybe dust? Try cleaning out the head 2 to 5 times using the "atomic method": http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Also I strongly recommend you put the filament on the floor so that the angle of filament entering the feeder isn't too tilted which causes several pounds of extra friction:

Make sure to do "xray view" in cura. There should be zero red. If there is red then cura will get confused. Also make sure "fix horrible A" is unchecked in expert settings otherwise Cura might fill in your gaps in places where you don't want it to. Also make sure the printer is retracting. There are about 6 retraction settings and there are two settings that may be disabling the retraction for small gaps. Look at your part in slice view and retraction is shown with blue travel lines with vertical line at the start of the move. The vertical line does not represent actual Z movement but is a symbol to represent retraction. If you aren't getting retraction then play with Cura settings (expecially expert) until you do.

Yeah I think the problem can occur even at 70F for certain printers. No one really knows why yet. And I'm prety sure they aren't investigating but instead have an experimental alternate feeder design that keeps heat away from the filament. I don't know if they will ever release the alternate design though. Not enough people have had the problem yet to make it a major focus. There are higher priorities right now for engineering at UM. The light blue filament is said to be their worst filament. Although I like it quite a bit. It has a great look to it and shows flaws nicely so it's good for making test prints. I think my most beautiful prints ever were all done in that filament. Yet I have to agree, all the other colors have better results. I think it softens at a lower temp then most of the other colors also although I don't have much evidence for that - never did any glass-temp tests.

But this is nozzle radius, right? So it's 400%. Area always increases the square of radius or diameter or circumference.

Okay so it sliced fine. I thought maybe the model had some kind of invisible defect. It looks like it just is having trouble with the overhang. You could add support. I hate support. I never add support. But you could try it - it will fix the shape but the support will take a long time to print and leave a rough surface. Still I thought this would print better - is your fan working? You need as much fan as possible for the overhang (bottom of the sphere). Also I recommend printing cooler (and therefore slower) for this model- at least until the overhang is only 45 degrees. So try printing at 190C and at 20mm/sec. With 100% fan. If that works you can raise the temp to 220 and then speed it up to 40mm/sec when you get past the overhang.

I don't have the latest firmware but I tested the 24V supply *at* the nozzle wiring on the PCB with the nozzle powered fully and made two measurements one with the bed off and one with the bed on. With bed off I got 24.0V on I got 23.8V. That's a 0.83% difference in voltage or a 1.7% difference in power. I believe this is true: average_nozzle_watts * constant = nozzle_temp - room_temp. So if printing at 220C or delta_C of 200, this change of 1.7% should change the temp no more than 3.3C before the PID controller adjusts. So at least for my power brick, this isn't the problem. However maybe dimensioneer's power brick is slightly weaker. Also I didn't have servos moving which draw additional power. Also the power supply never had a chance to warm up (was only on for about 30 seconds). But my theory is looking weaker than before. I still think the problem is with the nozzle varying temperature significantly (e.g. 10C) but I'm not sure how having the bed in bang-bang mode could cause this. I definitely don't think it is caused by the bed changing temperatures as that shouldn't affect anything more than 5mm above the bed. Plus I built my own heated bed for UMO 1.5 years ago and bang-bang mode kept it within 1C so I suspect the same is true for the UM2 bed in bang-bang mode.