gr5

Please post a picture. Do you mean like the first picture here? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide If so the solution is also there.

Try wikipedia! It's a fantastic resource for this kind of thing. The most important thing to know is that if a circuit is designed for thermocouples you can't replace it with a thermistor. And if a circuit is designed for thermistors you can't replace it with a thermocouple. And these only describe 2 types of temperature sensors. There are other types. The UM2 uses PT100 temp sensor. That can handle the high temperatures but needs special circuitry. An analogy: Some cars run on gasoline. Some on electricity. You can't just put gasoline on an electric engine and expect it to work.

Ah! Important clue! UM Original? One thing can explain both issues! I think your belts are too loose. Loose belts means that when it draws the circle it might not quite finish the circle before going to the interior. Also loose belts cause the outer shells not to connect and not to connect to the infill sometimes also.

Also check for tangles on the filament spool. But most likely your head is clogged right now.

This sounds crazy. I've never heard of this. Did you choose "ultimaker 2" for you machine? What is the retraction length and speed set in the menus on the actual printer? I recommend 4.5 to 5.5mm. Look through the gcode with a text editor. The retraction/unretraction commands are G10 (retract) and G11 (unretract). You could look for those codes.

Fons please start a new topic. Many people have built their own heated bed but none of them are likely to read this topic. Did you build your own heated bed? Did you solder in the 4.7k resistor? What part did you use for the thermistor? Anyway to answer your question, in Cura go to "file" "machine settings" and mess around with the port. In "auto" mode it only checks com ports 1 through 4 I believe but often the printer can be at port 10 or 20 or 34 or whatever. More information here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5100-how-to-update-um2-firmware/?p=46156

PLA is very strong. 80% infill is strong enough for people to stand on this. Vertically or horizontally. Do you really need it that strong? You can save lots of time by printing it hollow or only 10% infill. I wouldn't go over 24%. The simplest way to remove that Z scar is to slow it down. I don't recommend slowing it below 30mm/sec but if you go to 20mm/sec that Z scar will be very hard to see. If this is for a mold you can use wet sandpaper and Bondo to hide that seam. What is your "infill speed"? It's best to use the same speed everywhere. Every time you switch speeds you get small bumps like this due to brief overextrusion or underextrusion caused at the speed change. That's why 20mm/sec works so well - speed changes are smaller.

On the ulticontroller go to "control" "firmware". I have: Firmware version 13.12 (May 6) I just realized I did a ninjaflex print 2 days ago at 10mm/sec (slow!). The bottom layer was solid. It was about 1.4 seconds per infill line. There are about 180 infill lines. (it was shaped long and skinny like a thick pencil but square) That's over 4 minutes and it doesn't count the shell or the brim. I've definitely printed over a minute on one layer with no problems.

When the stepper is off the machine doesn't know if the Z axis is moving or not. So why has this never happened to me and the other 15 beta testers? I find it hard to believe I haven't printed a bottom layer that was > 1 minute. I guess it's possible. One print in particular I'm thinking of that I did a few months ago should have been about 5 minutes to print the bottom layer. Maybe I have an older version of the firmware.

I'm at 9:16 in the above video. Half the time I didn't know I was being filmed but of course at that moment I knew.

You should stick with G92. The problem is Marlin runs on a wimpy computer that can't handle E values larger than a few thousand so every 9999 (not sure the exact roll over number) or so Marlin resets E back to zero (and adds a G92). If you modify the remaining E values with an offset you will be requesting negative E values. So you either need to detect G92 values that already exist in the code and modify your offsets when found. Or you should do your own G92 value when swapping.

1) Fans at 100% (I'm sure you already did this) 2) Print cooler - try 200C or even 190C. 3) Print slower - try 30mm/sec (have some patience). Or even 20mm/sec. This will improve quality. But who cares about quality? The robot has lots of overhangs - it's time you moved onto some "real" prints.

Oh! That's completely different then. None of the 15 beta testers have experienced this problem then. It probably has nothing to do with the Z axis. For some reason it stops the print early. Maybe you have the "pauseAtZ" plugin enabled? It may be enabled from some print you did long ago. Check the plugins tab in cura.

printedsolid.com Be very careful with filaments you buy - Usually when they say 3mm it means "3mm maximum". So that the average size is 2.9 or 2.85mm and the variance keeps it below 3mm. But some manufacturers don't know about this and the average is 3mm with maybe .15mm tolerance. These filaments jam in the bowden tube (the clear plastic tube) and are useless on an Ultimaker. If you look more carefully at the literature they often specify 2.85 or 2.9mm as the actual size. Because filament tends to be sold by weight and not length the manufacturers have no incentive to make the filament on the "high" or "low" side and these problems are simply through ignorance. The owner of printedSolid.com (Matt) owns an Ultimaker and can tell you if any of his 3mm filaments have issues with Ultimakers. I'm pretty sure none of them do - certainly not the colorFabb filaments - those are high quality filaments that work well with Ultimakers.

Most Thermistors are not rated above 250F (let alone 250C!) They will get permanently damaged at those temperatures such that they read the wrong temperature. Each time they go above 150C or so they get damaged further and the temperature/resistance gets more and more inaccurate. Because of this we usually only use thermocouples thermistors for the heated bed (which shouldn't get above 110C). You can probably order a thermocouple from Ultimaker. You would need to get one with the exact same characterstics that the UM Original print head circuit board expects edited by gr5 (see X out above).

You guys! You gave me 5 likes on the forum but zero (ZERO!) likes on youtube. :(

Aaron turned out to be an incredibly helpful guy. For example he was always the one to climb under those massive white/blue/pink displays and hook up the power with the edge of the thing hovering over his neck while 4 guys tilted it and held it in place. And his stories (true stories) had me laughing so hard! Oh my goodness!

Well someone else posted this video and it includes I think everyone starting at 5m28 to 6m21s (the link will jump you there): I arrived the next day so I'm not in his first video.

Well it's because your Z axis is so slippery. The axis of the UMO and UM2 don't have this issue. Mine is slippery also but not quite enough to fall without touching it lightly. I've printed dozens of things without this problem. Also I assume if I print something with small enough layers I wouldn't likely notice it either.

And is it the "heated bed" version? For "ultimaker original"? I suppose if it isn't either the display won't work or the heated bed won't work.

Please don't use imageshack or any other service that won't host your images for at least 10 years as then your post will look like crap when they stop hosting. Instead click on "Gallery" on the top left of this page and then the blue upload button. After uploading make a post and click "my media" next to the smile face.

Jerry from barnacules nergasm is visible at 2:23 filming the giraffe. He was at the Ultimaker booth pretty much the whole time. This is only a tiny slice of the event - I only videoed things that had music or were moving in an impressive way. Sometimes I was so blown away I forgot to make a video. For example they exploded cereal and then let us eat it. Out of a kind of oven/gun. Into a large plexiglass room. I learned how to pick locks. There were soldering classes. There was just... so damn much going on!

Here's my 3 minute video of some of the highlights at makerfaire nyc including some ultimaker people taking the booth down at the end:

I assume flow is the same as other settings. For example the fan I know for sure... If you have it come on gradually from 0 to 1mm such that each .1mm layer is 10% faster (50% at .5mm) you can change it in the Tune menu but when it hits the next layer it changes it back to the gcode value. You can check this in the TUNE menu and see that it changed.

Wow! Nice catch. I will PM Daid although he will probably read this anyway. I think there is a simple flag in the Marlin build that sets the timeout for the axis steppers. I guess a quick fix would be to insert some Z moves (to the same point) inside the gcode. Someone could easily write a plugin to do that. But I think a proper fix should be to Marlin.