gr5

DonMilne has great advice! Read it twice! It matters on layer height also. With .2mm layer height that is 50*.4*.2 or 4mm^3/sec which is fine at 230C but too fast at 210C. I have a graph of max speeds and I never print faster than half the speed of this graph. Also keep in mind that the lower layers print slower and it speeds up as you go so that's probably why it was fine at the lower layers. I recommend you keep the speed at 50mm/sec but raise the temp to 240C. Or pick some other speed/temp position on that graph and cut the speed in half. The important line on the graph is the dark blue line and note that it is for .2mm layers only. For .1mm layers you can print twice as fast: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/

So in another thread Daid mentioned that he is being pulled from Cura to work on dual extrusion research. It sounds like this is going to take a higher priority now. Dual extrusion on the UMO is tricky and "experimental". For example it's hard to get the 2 heads level - you have to file down the peek part a bit and/or warp the wood and aluminium plates by tightening the 4 screws different amounts. The wood can crack/split/break. However UM is taking this seriously I think.

Here's more details. And there's more news coming out Saturday: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6815-makerfaire-nyc-2014/page-4&do=findComment&comment=69171

So here's the news so far: 1) Ultimaker USA is open and has been secretly making Um2's in USa for months now and doing service including repairs, parts shipping and so on. Shipping is cheaper now for people in USA because the machines. 2) Ultimaker heated bed kit was announced officially. This involves adding a small circuit board and completely replacing the bed and z motor and z screw and includes a bigger power supply. Pricing/delivery information to be published Saturday morning early. The new web page will be uploaded 10pm usa east coast time Friday night and the website cache restarted 7am Saturday morning netherlands time. Other pricing and "freebies" to be announced Saturday. 3) Ultimaker + kit is now for sale. It has the UM2 electronics and many safety like features to make it CE compliant as daid said above. It has the new heated bed. Pricing/availability to be announced Saturday. 4) There's another announcement I believe for Saturday. edited: added #3 above.

It's glass impregnated teflon (PTFE). The part needs to do several things: handle high temperatures, be insulative (keep heat from moving upwards too fast) and also it needs to be slippery. Some materials such as ceramics offer too much friction.

I think there are many "bad" temp sensors out there that read a bit high. It seems much more common for them to read high than low. This means the actual temperature can be 20 or 30C lower than you think. So if it prints well at 250C I would stick with that and assume your nozzle temp sensor is off a bit.

minimakerfaires are fun too. http://makerfaire.com/map/

There's a huge show (3dprintshow?) in London every year and a makerFaire in Rome I think every year. Go to those. There was a guy from China at the one last year. Flew in just for MF I believe. Someone from England also.

Sorry - that is for UM Original only. I have both printers. I forgot about that. Ah! That could be the problem. You should always make this a multiple of your layer height. I'm not sure what happens if you do that! Try .6 or .8. It probably underextrudes by 50% on the top layer. Maybe. I don't know. This should always be a multiple of your layer height which you said is .2mm.

Heating the brass is somewhat dangerous as it can melt. However the melt point is about 940C so I doubt you will have a problem if you are careful - don't leave it in the flame continuously - maybe 10 seconds at a time. Make sure everything turns to carbon ash. Also consider soaking it for an hour in a solvent (like acetone) although I never did this myself. Acetone is good at dissolving ABS but not PLA. Ethyl Acetate will destroy any PLA (not dissolve exactly - more like make it weak and brittle). Definitely test it while still not connected to your printer by putting some PLA through it to make sure nothing is clogged - of course you have to heat it with flame first.

Yes! I know what you mean - I've done a few local things like that. And I've been to a mini makerfaire (not like the 70,000 people at MakerFaire NYC though!). But you should see the crowds around the UM booth! It can get busy. It's true I don't work for Ultimaker by the way. And I'm mainly going to makerFaire to see it so I won't be at the UM booth much. But text me if you swing by the booth (message me soon with your contact info if you haven't already!) and I'll run over the the UM booth. There will be about 8 people from this forum there and I'm trying to get them all to show up at the booth at the same time so they can all meet each other.

Everything important will likely appear on the UM website *before* the event starts at 6pm (USA East Coast) Thursday night (11pm United Kingdon) but you can follow my twitter. I expect I will grow from currently 6 followers to maybe 7 followers just for this event only! Maybe 8! woot! I promise to post some pictures before (5pm? 5:45pm) and during the event and if there is info on the UM website I will link to it and if not I will post the key points of the presentation (but I just heard an early explanation of all the announcements and there are lots of boring details that I'm too lazy to type in on my tiny cell phone keypad - like prices and dates and stuff). Sander will likely tweet also. Search for #ultimaker. I will use #ultimaker in my tweets. I will likely take some video but won't likely have time to edit it down to the interesting bits until the next day. So that will probably be useless. Maybe I'll take a few 10 second low-res clips with my cell phone also. twitter: @gr5org

By the way - keep in mind that the APM 2.6 with GPS and compass and accelerometers is just amazing and way more than you need if you just want to have fun. This system is very hackable and can fly autonomously. That means you can plot out the path on your laptop and upload the waypoints to the APM and then just tell it to go and watch and not touch the transmitter. It should auto take off, fly the route, and land. During normal use, if you turn off the transmitter I believe it will just fly back to the launch point (not sure if that feature is available in the current round of open source code but if not it will be soon I'm sure). This functionality combined with the gopro gimbal mount is over half the total cost but it makes it much easier to fly - you can tell it to hover and put the transmitter down and forget about it while you record some video from that angle or whatever and you can hack hack hack. So many features! You don't have to be a programmer as someone else has already written most of the features you might want.

So -- coincidentally I recently started getting much more serious about ordering parts and planning a quadcopter. Here is a first draft parts list based on this quadcopter from Make magazine. My requirements are APM (easier to fly) and gopro compatible with brushless gimbals for the gopro. The total cost for the basic parts is $560 $395 including everything except the frame and some screws and the gopro (already have it) and probably some wiring (but not including shipping of all the parts). I think this list is complete. I am going to go over this list again and order these parts probably Thursday on my train ride to Makerfaire. Another requirement is that I build it myself so that when I crash it (I'm experienced which means I know I will be crashing it a lot) I can fix just the parts that I break. I haven't decided if I'm going to do the simple plexiglass and wood frame or print one. I'm sure version 2 will be printed if version 1 isn't. The legs and prop guards will definitely be printed so probably the whole thing will be. Probably in Nylon which is much stronger than PLA and can withstand higher temps. Any experts out there want to explain why something in my list is completely wrong? I've flown prebuilt indoor copters and also model airplanes but not quads before. Make Magazine article: http://makezine.com/projects/make-37/the-handycopter-uav-2/ First draft parts list with prices and links of at least one place to buy them. Prices include qty so for example $72 buys you four motors. $10 buys you 4 pusher and 4 tractor props (so you have one spare set). I don't even have a LiPo battery charger so that's in there also. [*]APM 2.6 &gps&compass $240 $70 see edit below http://store.3drobotics.com/products/apm-2-6-kit-1[*]motors&mounts $72 3drobotics [*]props (2 sets) $10 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34084__turnigy_carbon_mixed_slow_fly_prop_w_adapters_9047r_sf_4_pc_right_hand_rotation_.html [*]brushless gimbals $46 http://www.altitudehobbies.com/ipower-2208-60-brushless-gimbal-motor [*]gimbal controller $30 http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/brushless-gimbal-v3-0-controller-module-w-sensor-martinez.html [*]transmitter/receiver $60 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8992&aff=1195429 ALSO http://blog.oscarliang.net/turnigy-9x-review-9-channel-rc-transmitter/ [*]ECS $52 (found set of 4 for $37) - should research more: http://www.makershed.com/products/gemfan-30a-electronic-speed-controller [*]battery $8 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8932__turnigy_2200mah_3s_20c_lipo_pack.html [*]charger $23 (is this right kind?) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html [*]power module $18.50 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43766__APM_Power_Module_with_XT60_Connectors_and_6_Pin_150mm_Cable.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwv9-gBRD5ofn2jd2N0UUSJACcdilsFn_hra2-AT-wOZihgZ1AAI7mB4cOvbWfIJvbYw96vRoCqG7w_wcB edit: By getting a few knock off things I dropped the price quite a bit. The key change was to get this from amazon (1 month shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-ArduPilot-External-Compass-Controller/dp/B00NGDS9L0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Which is $90 and replaces $240+$18.50 above or a savings of $150

Try printing at half the speed you were printing at previously and see if that makes it go completely away. The problem is that the printer pauses briefly at a spot before either going to an inner layer or moving Z axis or retracting. If the printer is moving more slowly then the pressure in the head is lower and when it stops, less will leak out (less pressure means less leakage). Alternatively possibly raise the temperature a bit, but usually lower temperatures improves quality.

It doesn't look blocked - I mean it doesn't look underextruded. But you could raise the temp by 10C if it's a little underextruded or slow it down by 50% when it gets to the top layer. How many solid layers are under the top layer? I recommend at least 4 layers (top thickness .8). In Cura did you enter "2.85mm" for the filament diamter? If you enter "3.0mm" it will underextrude of course.

I will be tweeting Thursday night. Folow @gr5org Last time they had a professional video board guy with like $10,000 of equipment plus a camera man. They had 2 or 3 cameras plus a hook into Erik's laptop. The video board was pretty amazing and I could see what was going on and all the chroma settings and stuff and it showed how many people were watching and so on. I think it cost quite a bit.

Okay - so I guess one of the announcements just came out today. See the main UM website. More announcements should be coming Thursday.

Please let us know what you learn. I would start by playing with the tension. The feeder has two white indicators to indicate tension and a screw accessed from the top that adjusts the tension. Do a google image search for "um2 feeder". Oh - and try sliding the sleeve about 1mm in or out on the shaft.

Like I said - mine is so quiet I can't hear it in a quiet room from 5 feet. The refrigerator in the next room over is MUCH louder. A hurricane in comparison. I have good hearing. It's basically silent. So maybe peel off the sticker and add a drop of oil and put the sticker back on. Or maybe order a new fan. Someone said this one works: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

There are several leveling bugs that are fixed in Cura 14.07 (not sure the firmware version). One is that after you level you get one calibration but then after every power cycle you get a second calibration value. Another bug has to do with the bed being all the way down when you start the procedure or when you home. Either bug could cause you headaches so definitely update firmware. Once you get leveling close, it's best to not use the procedure ever again in my opinion. Just use the screws to get the final .01mm accuracy (if needed).

It's called "atomic method" because it was first mentioned by "mostlyAtomicBob" on this forum. On other forums they call it "cold pull".

Most important: DON'T LET THE GLASS BED COOL!!! Once it does the part will probably pop off the bed and there is no way to continue. Then read above posting.

continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Some teaser videos about one or more announcements (to be made Thursday night) were posted recently. 3 of the 4 videos were posted. One more to be posted soon. Here's some screen shots and discussion about what it might all mean: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4939-a-coffee-between-friends-how-was-your-day/?p=68723