gr5

I think you are reading too much into it. I think it's 4 videos about one thing. They are all called "going global" so they are probably all about announcing global related stuff. One of them was about USA or "north america" or something? Maybe there is another one about some other country or maybe not.

What's the radius of curvature at the tip of each gear? That's the same as your needed nozzle radius. Measuring roughly with my fingers I'm going to guess 0.1mm. That would mean you could print it on a UM Original if you bought a 0.2mm diameter nozzle. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough for your needs but probably it would be. The normal nozzle for the UM Original and UM2 is .4mm. .2mm nozzles work but they are more likely to clog. But many people have had good success. I don't think you can go any smaller than .2mm. You could print this part on the b9creator easily but I don't know if the resulting material is strong enough - I have heard that the resin is somewhat brittle: http://b9creator.com/ Or the Form1. You could print this part through shapeways.com also.

Welcome! I guess this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide There have been issues with the filament getting ground up if you have lots of retractions on printers sold in the last month or so. It's very unclear what is going on. Spring too tight? Too loose? Different knurled sleeve? Here's some (unhelpful?) pics: Marks made by 3 different UM2s - the pink left one is the one that grinds up filament. The other 2 can do 10,000 retractions on 8 meters of filament. I don't get much (any?) dust. Also I never used those quick print settings ever. I don't recommend them especially since you probably know most of the lingo and you can hover the mouse over anything you don't understand. As far as the fans - the 3rd rear fan is always on. It comes on even before the lights. Is that what you meant? It was probably just quieter the first time you turned it on. Mine is so quiet I can't hear it more than 5 feet away but some of them are noisy. The side 2 fans should not come on when you power on - if they do the darlington is probably blown.

Here can be found photos and details on getting best possible robot - this was on UM Original but if someone else is reading this, UM2 can print just as well: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6764-printed-test-robot-has-erratic-edges/

Very interesting. Please do "save profile..." and post the resulting ini file here.

There is a small circuit board on the print head. There are 3 wires. One is ground - should be 0V. One is 5V power. The third reports back the temperature to the board underneath the UM. It should report 0V for 0C and 5v for 500C and 200mV for 20C (room temperature). Measure that voltage and make sure it is correct. You may have a bad thermocouple or the little board on the head could be defective also.

Daid who posted above wrote Cura and also modified Marlin quite a bit to get it to work for the UM2. He is pointing out a flag that tells Marlin to ignore the limit switches for anything other than homing. You can comment that out and rebuild Marlin if you want. Marlin has software endstops. Once you've homed the 3 axes you should be fine. Also the UM Original and UM2 are very tough - you are unlikely to damage your machine by going beyond any of the endstops. I think every UM Original and UM2 has gone beyond a few endstops within a year of use. Mine certainly both have.

Pictures please. Of cura slice view and normal view and maybe some arrows showing a problem spot.

That would be nice.

Maybe your temp sensor is off by 30C. Heat nozzle to 110C - keep temp there for one minute. Then put your finger in water and touch one drop to nozzle tip. It should be very quiet but if you look closely you should see lots of fast moving boiling bubbles. If not your temp sensor might be defective.

Please post a picture otherwise we have no idea what you talk about. 1) It could be you turned on spiralize like daid says. 2) Something else? 3) It could be pillowing maybe? First picture here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

McMaster sells a pack of 10 for $2.29, Part # 51055K413.

I recommend 245C for nozzle. No fan. 100C for heated bed if you have one. UM Original or UM2?

Doesn't work - for example if you scale up X,Y,Z by 2X now the nozzle has to output 8 times as much for each line. Plus if your layer height was .2mm now it's .4mm which doesn't look so good. If you only increase by 10% it might work but you need to scale up the E axis (extruder) by 1.1 cubed or 1.33. Anyway, no, there is no such feature. If you scale up or down it's really best to completely reslice it at the new scale. The printer is really designed to print exactly .4mm wide traces of plastic (it will go down to .2mm or up to .6mm just fine but really .4mm is the best).

Local glass store? I don't recommend this for heated bed. It's not necessary. You can use regular glass as long as you give it space to expand. Also don't throw water on it when it is at 100C as that will likely shatter the glass. Regular glass is cheap enough that you can buy 10 sheets of regular glass and that will last you 10 years of printing versus one sheet of pyrex glass. Even Ultimaker doesn't use borosilicate glass for their heated beds. I think they use tempered glass.

UM original or UM2? You want the drawings that show the corners and holes? Or do you want to know max print volume?

You adjust the gap by rotating the nut. The nut is not a normal nut - it is round instead of hexagonal and it has 6(?) holes through it that you can use a tool on to rotate the nut. The purpose of the nut is to raise or lower the nozzle - this is important for dual extrusion to get both nozzles the exact same height within .01mm or so. However dual extrusion has never worked on UM2 so it's a feature not needed. My impression is that the gap should be 1mm *or smaller*. This is to keep the spring from pushing too hard and deforming the isolator. Maybe there is another reason that I don't know about. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN ROTATING THE NUT. It is not strong - there are brass and/or copper parts involved which are soft and easily ripped. Only rotate when the nozzle is at 180C (because the PLA acts like a strong glue in the threads if not hot) and if you seem to be twisting with much force consider taking it apart enough so the spring is removed also. In fact it's easiest to rotate the nut by sticking a thin screwdriver through two opposite holes which you can only do if you remove the white isolator first. Although this design is meant to be rotated with the head assembled so you can "level the 2 nozzles".

These numbers don't seem quite right to me. I suspect this table is meant to work with a 10k resistor instead of a 4.7k resistor. There are many 10k thermistors out there all with very different properties which mean each manufacturer would need a different table. Same thing is true of 100k thermistors. So I suggest you get only the recommended reprap 100k thermistors. Much more information here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor#RRRF_10K_Thermistor

The only 10k thermistor table that comes with Marlin is this one: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h #if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 4) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 4) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 4) || (THERMISTORBED == 4) //10k thermistor const short temptable_4[][2] PROGMEM = { {1*OVERSAMPLENR, 430}, {54*OVERSAMPLENR, 137}, {107*OVERSAMPLENR, 107}, {160*OVERSAMPLENR, 91}, {213*OVERSAMPLENR, 80}, {266*OVERSAMPLENR, 71}, {319*OVERSAMPLENR, 64}, {372*OVERSAMPLENR, 57}, {425*OVERSAMPLENR, 51}, {478*OVERSAMPLENR, 46}, {531*OVERSAMPLENR, 41}, {584*OVERSAMPLENR, 35}, {637*OVERSAMPLENR, 30}, {690*OVERSAMPLENR, 25}, {743*OVERSAMPLENR, 20}, {796*OVERSAMPLENR, 14}, {849*OVERSAMPLENR, 7}, {902*OVERSAMPLENR, 0}, {955*OVERSAMPLENR, -11}, {1008*OVERSAMPLENR, -35} }; The number on the right is the temperature in C. So if room temperature is around 20C then you expect the ADC reading to be 743 (out of range of 0 to 1023 which corresponds to 0 to 5V) so that means you should have 5*743/1024 or about 3.5 volts yet it is reading 0 volts or 5 volts to get that error. Check your wiring with a volt meter. Did you install the 4.7k resistor? Is it the right resistance? The circuitry is very simple - it's just a 2 resistor circuit. Also known as a "resistor divider": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider#Resistive_divider Where one resistor is at 4700 ohms and the other (the thermistor) roughly 1.9k at 20C. If you don't understand this and/or don't have a multimeter, find someone who does.

Ha! Illuminarti knows - at least he knows one of the several announcements. He probably knows them all.

Hey, welcome. Is there any chance you will go to MakerFaire NYC? There will by about 70,000 people and roughly 7 people from the forum will be there including myself. And some UM employees will be flying in from The Netherlands. And there is a cool announcement from UM on Sep 18 in NYC - if you can make ti let me know and I'll secure an invitation for you and your friends. More details here - as a minimum watch the teaser video (it's only 30 seconds long): umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6815-makerfaire-nyc-2014/

This is the bottom layer. Does the next layer look better? For ABS try 245C instead of 260C. Also I recommend bed temp of 100C. I'm not sure what the edge is - it might be overextrusion or dripping - leveling might be too high (but that will be fixed on second layer so try second layer). Might be flowing too freely at 260C.

This is what I mean about the feeder pattern on the filament The printer that made the purple left pattern was grinding the filament flat. The filament on the right was from a working printer. The white filament was also from a working printer. Both working printers have done incredible amounts of retraction no problem - like 100,000 retractions on a single print! Like 500 meters of retractions for one print.

No. I really don't know what the problem is. Some printers do this (flatten the filament). I think printing slower won't help. I have a theory that the stepper is so hot that it melts the PLA a little bit. But that theory is most likely wrong. Well this will DEFINITELY fix your problem. But it might cause lots of stringing.

I thought that was maybe you. I remember the conversation. We talked on the first day I think (Saturday). I'm glad you got one of the first ever UM2s. For UM2 spare parts you will likely have better luck with Simon/Illuminarti. Send him a PM through the forums. I could be wrong though. I bet you can get a nozzle and bowden from someone for free if you are around late Sunday. Probably just for a beer or something! In fact you might want to go out to dinner with us Friday, Saturday, or Sunday night. I don't know what my plans are but there is a good chance I will be with the UM team at least 2 of those nights. Did you maybe bring your wife with you last year? Will you be around Sep 18? If so I'll get you an invitation to the party/announcement that night (6pm in Manhattan). I suspect UM will be selling UM Original kits - perhaps some kind of *new* kit? UM doesn't tell me much so I don't know. I recommend you wait on the UM Original until they come out with the new heated bed at least. But hopefully that will be this Sep 18.