gr5

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Today (Monday) I watched the Marathon. It was a wonderful day. I took over 400 pictures. One of my pictures is feature on THE FRONT PAGE OF WIKIPEDIA! That's a first for me and no - it wasn't me that put it there! It's the picture of the woman who won the race. You can click on the picture to see more. Also I took all 4 photos that are on this page (among other boston marathon related pages): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2014_Boston_Marathon

Nice Ian! Thanks for the pictures. I love pictures. Okay now my turn...

Well the next time you have trouble with a "solid" please post the STL file. It helps to view in "xray" mode in cura. If there is any red at all then it means you either have an interior wall or you have a hole in your model. After removing all red areas it should be fine.

If in cad you model infinitely thin walls then Cura prints it perfectly - it prints nothing. Air is infinitely thin plastic. Making this model printable will be a lot of work. But if it is your model I'm sure you will do fine.

Oh! This model is a disaster. There is no inside. There's almost nothing to print. So in CAD software you can design models with infinitely thin walls. That's what you did with this car. You need to give all the walls thickness. Or if you want it solid then you need to seal all the holes such as the windows. And the bottom. It's all open and has no walls.

Also if you buy a UM2 you might have to wait 8 to 10 weeks. Another reason to get the UM1 kit!

3 days shipping is not that long. If you can't wait 3 days... I mean how many days has it been since you decided to purchase a printer?

Please post photos of some of the parts you described, yes!

Some stringing tests I did. Different color filaments (and different brands) need different temperatures (see very first photo in this thread): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Ultimaker is working on this right now. "cool" settings look good. I've never tried the "z-hop when retracting". This is a very new feature and I haven't tested it yet. It is recommended for "delta" 3d printers since they are always moving all 3 axes anyway. But I don't know if it is recommended for ultimakers.

It looks like the M3004 thing. I don't know what that does but it says something about the "bed height" and in one case it is set to 72 and in the other it is set to 0. I think it needs to be zero in both cases as it sounds like you said kisslicer workd better and that is what kisslicer set it to.

So don't change infill speed. To speed things up you can manually slow down the print on the overhang areas and the go back to 100% when things are more vertical.

Wait - I just looked at the thingiverse model - I take it all back about infill. Yes 100% infill makes sense. I thought you were filling in the area that is normally "air" in a regular ukelele. I didn't know it was playable!

I mean make sure your fans work. Both of them. Also make sure in Cura they turn on gradually over the first, say 5 layers. So in Cura you could just set that easily. Well going to 50% infill will speed things up. You can have a fast infill speed and slow skin speed if you want but if you do that I would make the skin at least 3 layers thick both to keep the infill from showing through and also to give the speed change time to adjust. Also you can control the print speed as it is printing so you could set it to print 50mm/sec in cura and then slow down to 50% print speed for the first - heavy overhang - area. The "print slower" is going to help that white part more than the ukelele itself. The ukelele didn't have many (any?) bumps as the overhang got more vertical than 45 anyway. If you really want the ukelele to be strong, do it all in the shell - consider maybe 10 layers of shell (4mm) and then only 24% infill. That should be strong enough to stand on. Maybe. Usually the strength is all in the outer layers. So for example when you see construction of structural things that need to be light weight they often drill holes in the center where it doesn't affect strength so much. Or like how plumbers and electricians are only supposed to drill holes in the *center* of studs and joists. Of course *some* infill will definitely make it stronger.

If you use support, it will be ugly where it touches the teeth and you break it off. If you *don't* use suppor the teeth will print but with lots of bumps and ugly. There is no good way to print in this orientation but without support is MUCH faster. So I would turn it off. But you still seem to be ignoring this feature circled and highlighted in green - but use more than 3mm! 4mm as minimum I think. Remember - this is just an experiment.

Seems unlikely but I don't have any evidence to contradict you. I just remember it took me about 30 tries with that stupid menu to get it to finally work. I also created a custom1 and custom2 which I don't use anymore as I just use PLA setting now. Finding the easter egg was easier than getting this to work.

Um - I think you want at least 40C - I forget - did you read my post #7 above? I did a lot of experiments and I have to always refer to that to remember what works.

Um - okay - you need to take better notes or something or have better work flow. I never overwrite a gcode file that was used to print something. In cura you can always choose "load profile from gcode..." (profile means settings) then look to see if retraction was enabled (although there are 6 settings for this). Even better, load the gcode as the model and look at it in layer view and see EXACTLY where retraction occurred for every move. You can then pick a string in real life and look at that exact move in layer view and see if there is that vertical line that indicates retraction. You can also look at

I think I understand things better now that you explained about the braces. I looked at your green photograph again with the red circles. I now realized you circled "strings" and "bumps". The "bumps" can be improved by slowing down. Try 20mm/sec. Experiment with different speeds. I only saw one string at the top most tooth. That can simply be cut off with a razor.

When you click PRINT and then choose a model, before it starts printing, go to the TUNE menu and then go to the retraction settings. Use your fingers and pull up and down on the bowden at the black print head. If it doesn't move then the settings should be 4.5mm retraction. If it moves 1 mm then increase that to 5.5mm retraction.

You should try vertical just to see the quality and worry about speed later. Support will work but it is faster to simply sink the part into the bed by about 4 to 4.5mm. This will create a new flat bottom.

Also for overhangs, FAN IS CRITICAL. Make sure fans are at 100% by 1 or 2mm above print bed.

Print those at half speed and they should improve quite a bit. For highest quality I print at 20mm/sec. Here is a picture showing speed versus bumps quality that you speak of (on the pumpkin): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010 Regarding the 100% infill - I really don't recommend that. 50% infill is amazingly dense and leaves no room for the PLA to expand/shrink. How about trying 50% infill? It's very strong. The bottom curve of the ukelele is always going to have overhang bumps for a few inches but that white piece you should be able to get perfect.

Did you check "enable retraction"? there are 6 retraction related settings: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers). 4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on. 5,6) For the UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Without the above part you need at least 5.5mm retraction distance. 5,6) On UM2: On the printer, you can control retraction there also Leave the retraction speed alone but change the retraction amount from 4.5mm to 5.5mm if the bowden moves up and down at the head (try pulling it a bit).