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I don't think it's a bed releveling thing as the bottom layers look okay. 1) Did the part slip? Did it come off the bed during printing? 2) UM Original or UM2 printer? 3) Well it looks maybe too hot. On Um2 default settings aren't ideal - default bed is 75C. Lower that to 60C. Slow the print down a bit - whatever you were printing at, try 2/3 speed. 4) Could the printer have slipped or lost steps? It looks like each layer lines up properly with the layer below but maybe not? 5) Make sure the side fans are working (or single side fan on UM1). If fans aren't on then that could explain everything. A quick way to test the fans on UM2 is to click PRINT, then choose anything, then go immediately to TUNE menu (this will keep the print from starting). Then go to the fans setting and crank them to 100%. If they don't start spinning don't panic - it's easy to fix - post your results. First step for fixing the fans is to slide up that plastic sleeving at the top of the print head and expose the fan wiring underneath is 90% of the time that's where it fails.

I posted details here but this is only one way to do it. When I do it again I will do it differently: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case

There's not much to tear down - you just create a new domain and have it point to the same website.

That's very strange. I don't think there are any wifi chips on the current PCB or someone would have mentioned it by now. I know that some non-ultimaker people are very serious about changing out the arduino to a cell phone computer which of course can easily do wifi (and hi resolution graphics and more). And when that project is stable enough I think it will be integrated into the UM2 (or UM3). Anyway don't count on this within a year. Printing through USB works but is not reliable and is not officially supported. Some people use octoprint which is free. But again, not officially supported. For many machines USB printing works fine but for others it barely works at all. SD printing is wonderful - I've done 30 hour prints and I don't have to worry about my windows computer shutting down for some obscure adobe update in the middle of my print. So I guess the basic answer is if you really need wifi printing you should get something else.

These problems are usually caused by shipping. Shipping your entire printer back to UM and then getting a new one will probably have some different problem. Unless you can drive to UM headquarters and pick it up yourself I recommend you spend the 3 minutes it takes to bend the metal by 2mm with pliers.

You (probably both of you) definitely have a problem with the Z homing. I would start by bending that switch back. It should click when you push on it. You might want to check the cable to make sure it is plugged into the PCB at the other end and maybe also check it with a volt meter. Personally if I didn't see anything wrong and the voltmeter shows it change from infinite ohms to zero ohms when you click it then I would load up pronterface (it's free) and connect your UM2 to a computer with USB cable: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ I think pronterface will tell you if a limit switch is tripping properly. If it's not working this needs to be fixed or you will have to level every day! Photo of my z limit switch:

Please post pictures on the forum and not on other hosting services because a year from now your picture and link probalby won't work. To post here click on "gallery" on the top left of this page, then click "upload" button. Then post a new post (or edit your old post) and click "my media" next to smile icon.

All the issues above are true and in addition you may hit the end stops early if you print something 205mm long in X or Y. So best to scale in Cura. There are many other accuracy issues - the biggest issue is with vertical holes that is caused by 3 factors (shrinkage is only 1 of the 3 issues with holes). The best solution in this case is to print twice - after the first print measure everything and then adjust the cad file by the error. With experience you can get it right the first time in CAD for your particular PLA and print settings. But simply changing the qty of edges in a circle in your CAD will change the size of the hole and there are other issues that you have less control over.

So that line across the square hole might have happened during the skirt or brim phase. You might want to rotate the part or something so that the travel doesn't cross that square hole. Or possibly disable brim.

In theory you can rotate that nut without taking off more than just the fans but when I tried it the white teflon piece inside made it difficult. It's best to take the head mostly apart. Remove the 4 screws that hold the side fans and let them hang by the wires. Then remove the four long thumb screws screws and take them out. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the 3rd fan - be careful there is a strong spring. After that, pull out the white teflon isolator and now you can stick a thin screwdriver through those holes on that nut you mentioned. If it doesn't turn easily, heat up the nozzle to above 100C. 240C is much too hot - I usually do 180C but even just 100C might be enough. Did you break this nut? It will rotate much easier if you take out that white piece. If the nut is completely destroyed you can continue by removing that long threaded thing which holds in the temp probe and heater. You must unscrew it at leat 4 full turns before removing the temp probe and heater or you might damage one or both of them. At that point you are ready to install a new nozzle and nut.

The glass temp of PLA is around 50 to 60C. If you keep the PLA well above that temp you get good and bad results. The bad result is that it takes longer for the PLA to cool and (especially for small prints) can get what looks like warping but is actually PLA laid down in the wrong place due to pulling inward on a layer below that is still liquid. The good result is if you can keep the bottom 5mm or so of PLA above the glass temp then it is more like putty than a solid which means no matter how strong the warping forces are it won't lift off the bed. It might deform a little but it won't lift. Somewhat better however is if you can keep the bed at 60C (or colder) and still get no lifting. There are lots of tricks for this but the overall idea here is to get the part to stick like hell to the bed. Another similar technique to the 75C technique is to use a raft. This allows the part to sit on a stiff but somewhat flexible raft so that if there are strong warping forces the raft can flex enough to keep it from ripping off the bed and also distribute the forces over a larger area. The problem with raft is the bottom of your part looks like crap. Many many slicers and printers out there use a raft technique. Or they used to in the "older" days. But now we demand more - now we want it to stick *and* have a perfectly smooth bottom.

If you live in USA you can get a good replacement here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803

Look at your expert retraction settings. Try toggling combing whatever it currently is. Also look at the 2 minimums and maybe set those to zero? For example, if the move distance across those squares is 2mm and minimum distance is 3mm then it won't retract as it goes over but this is likely not the issue. I think what is happening is it was doing a non-retracting-move (a blue line in layer view without the vertical blue line) and was just leaking a bit. With combing it should go around those empty squares (hopefully - not sure if combing does anything on the bottom layer).

Sorry I missed your post. No. If the temp is lower than I believe 170C then the extruder is switched off to avoid grinding the filament. You can override this with a M command. MINTEMP might be an error though - not sure. Probably not. There is also a MINTEMP ERROR but I think this log above just shows the normal extruder-switch-off flag.

The original posts here were last November. Many of us have learned a lot since then. I think if you start over and do the above test there is a lot that the forum can do to help you or that Ultimaker can do. Ultimaker has also done some serious research and has some interesting solutions for the small amount of people with this issue.

Lacarpe, the skipping backwards of the extruder is designed that way on purpose so you don't grind the filament. It only happens when there is very high force on the filament - it skips backwards at around 5kg force. Other people have had the problem you describe where the skipping got worse after using the printer for a while. Unfortunately this is not trivial to debug. There is a test here to see exactly how bad the problem is (must be done at 230C to compare properly to expected results): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ A new UM2 should be able to get up to 7 cubic mm/sec (or faster) but printers that can print up to 3mm aren't too bad as I don't think I ever go over 3 cubic mm/sec anyway. I recommend you do that test. If your printer is getting 7 you might just need to slow down your prints a little or raise the temperature. If the test indeed shows a problem then unfortunately there are about 10 solutions to try including: 1) Getting a new stronger teflon isolator 2) Putting filament spool on floor 3) Cleaning abs out of the nozzle (the black feeder is made from ABS and some of it may now be in your nozzle) 4) Increase current to feeder (increasing from standard 1.35A to 1.5A makes a huge difference for some people) And many more For some people #1 was all they needed to do. For others one of #2 through #4 was all they needed to do. But the first step is to prove that you have a problem with the link above. Prove that you aren't simply printing too fast or too cold.

You need to print something really really nice for this step parent. I mean they need to burst into tears when they see it. Maybe it will involve painting and sanding. You need to think hard about what they really truly love. The printer could be quieter than a car a mile away and it will still be too loud. So you inspired me to make this video about the comparative volume of the two printers.

Well. Maybe. It looks like the feeder slipped back. But your bottom layer looks underextruded overall. I would say you need to level a little bit tighter with nozzle a tiny bit closer to glass. But I don't know why you got that one little underextruded spot - maybe the filament was tangled? Maybe the nozzle got too cold because the temperature was oscillating? Don't know about this one.

No idea. It doesn't look like a buldge. It could be a faulty Z screw issue but if that's true it will show up on all parts, even the UM robot at the same height. I don't see any bulging on the corners - are you sure it's a buldge? Can you take a better picture?

1) overhangs - you need to get the fan going sooner and keep the heat on the bed below 60C. But above 40C. 40C should be fine. 60C should be fine also. You need zero fan for the bottom layer but you need 100% fan as soon as possible - maybe by .5mm you want 100%. Lots of details on overhangs having this issue here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ 2) Ringing You can change acceleration settings here: maintenance/advanced/motion settings I haven't tried it on UM2 yet. There may be a trick to "saving" the changes so I would try changing to huge difference. Try 100mm/sec/sec to make sure you can really see it slowing down at each corner. If that works then try 1000 to 3000mm/sec to reduce ringing. 3) Pillowing This is called pillowing. Search for it on this forum. This is fixed by adding more fan (do your side 2 fans work?) and also by increasing top/bottom layer thickness.

So this is a spouse we are talking about? A room-mate? Is the dishwasher going out the window next? I love the sound of a dishwasher. And I like the sound of a 3d printer also. Makes for happy dreams either way. The UM Original I think is about similar volume to a dishwasher.

Okay - I guess I need to make a video with both printers going at the same time in different rooms and I walk up to each one. This will be fun - hopefully I'll remember to do this tonight! The UM2 is quite a bit more quiet. But the Z screw is loud! Most of the time it only moves .1mm at a time but when the print is done or when the print starts I can hear it from quite far away (1 floor up, 40 feet over, door closed).

Brim porn! That's a sexy, perfect, brim!

By the way, there are special cases where you need a minimum of 75C on the bed - if you want to print a huge square thing that takes up the whole bed for example.

Quick answer: use that glue stick. Yikes - conflicting advice about brim and temperatures. Yes but if the problem is that the parts won't stick then brim helps a lot. Don't stop brim if parts aren't sticking. I agree that this looks like your parts came loose. Looking at the photo I don't see any glue so try that glue stick that came with the UM2. Try to do a thin coat over the area where the parts will be. Print at any temp from 40C and hotter to get good stickiness. The problem with going over 65C is you start to get bad quality on the lower levels so I only recommend that if you have warping issues. Which you might. Printing at 200C and fan on 100% on first layer is not good. That first layer is critical to get good flow into cracks and a good seal on the glass. 100% fan on second layer is okay but it will lower the nozzle temp significantly. Instead try 230C nozzle, 0% fan on first layer and you can lower to 200C on second layer if you really must. Then you are probably fine to jump to 100% on second layer but I let cura handle this and raise it gradually until 1mm off bed (this is a cura setting). I'm usually pretty happy with nozzle at 220C, bed at 60C for entire print. If the brand of PLA I am using is making lots of strings then I lower to possibly even 180C but 200C is usually low enough.