gr5

You can set shell thickness to whatever you want. I've even set it to 100mm and it will fill solid with concentric fill instead of diagonal infill. So if you set shell to 1.2mm and nozzle to .4mm then it will will print .4mm walls just fine and 1.2 walls also solid. If the wall is thinner than "shell" setting it does fewer passes.

Good so far. You can't print a wall thinner than the nozzle of course. What? Can you rephrase this? This1) doesn't sound like what cura doeas 2) I'm not even sure what you are trying to say. I've printed .41mm thick walls using cura set to .4mm nozzle size. But what happens at 1.2? What? I don't understand.

Sorry - not out yet. But evidently you can pause it from the control panel. I've never tried it as when you pause the nozzle tends to ooze and make a small mess (that may or may not clean up easily).

The reason parts pop off the bed is because the expansion coefficient for glass is different for plastic so they shrink by different amounts. Don't even touch your part gently until the bed is back up to temp.

If your bed was heated during the print - try to keep the bed heated until you continue the print. If it's off right now, turn it back on - you don't want the part to pop off the bed. It's okay to leave the bed warm for many days until you figure this out. Once the part pops off the bed you probably need to start at the begining. If you want parts to look perfect, you can fill holes with bondo (auto body filler) and you can sand and then paint with automobile primer paint. After priming you can use any kind of paint you want. This will give you absolutely amazing quality and can hide holes, bumps, and other imperfections (but it can be a ton of work).

Okay. I converted your scad file to an stl. It says "moma loves fay" on it. It took a minute or two to run. When I first sliced it in cura it came out just like yours - hundreds of non-extruding moves - missing sections. A complete mess. Here's a photo: So then I tried "expert settings, fix horrible, type B" and it got MUCH better. I then set shell to .4, fill density to 0%, unchecked infill top and iinfill bottom and it looks great now - no blue lines: It now prints in 17 minutes instead of 29 minutes (at print speed 60 layer height .2). And it's well a bracelet instead of a series of unconnected walls. I think if you had used the settings I posted above it would have worked, but "type B" was the secret sauce to get it to work. added later: Note that the blue lines are non-extruding - that's just air. More than one or two blue lines is a problem for a bracelet/stretchlet.

That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely. 80mm/sec is a reasonable print speed - for low quality. 35mm/sec is better for higher quality. That last photo shows only 2 strings per part. And the strings *only* seem to be on the top layer. I think you must be printing these parts in "one at a time" mode. Which is fine. But a bit buggy in Cura - it doesn't handle the transition from one part to the next very well. I think it's probably not a problem - you just have to cut off two strings per part with a razor blade.

Very strange. Please post *all* your settings. Do "file" "save profile..." and then post the whole thing please! I'm thinking you might have chosen reprap machine and have some bad gcodes in there. It really looks like some kind of levelling issue. Or maybe your first layer height is too thick (.5mm?).

Hmm. Somewhere on these forums is how to get the UM2 to print in "rep rap" mode. There's a couple tricks - it's very simple but there something.... I forget. Sorry.

That website purposely slows down the download so it will take a few minutes. But the first thing you should know is never print anything before checking it carefully in cura layer view. There's no need to waste time printing errors when you can see the errors just fine in Cura layer view. You have to wait for it to completely load before checking each layer. You can use shift key and up/down arrows to move one layer at a time. Go up and down quickly looking at different areas of your part each time. The next thing you should know is to always look at your part in cura xray view. Any red areas are potential problem areas. You can often fix them by going into expert settings and there are 11 combinations of checkboxes in the "fix horrible" section. Up it just downloaded. If you check every box except for "B" in the fix horrible settings it looks okay - I only did a quick look.

If you want to get a baseline I recommend printing this part early on so that if you have problems later with underextrusion you can reprint the same thing and see if something changed (you only need to read the first post): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Some of the circled areas in your photos are vertical lines that really look like they are in the STL and also the gcode. You can prove this by loading the gcode into repetier host and seeing if you still see all the artifacts. The blobbing you see in some of the pictures can probably be reduced by printing a little slower - see pumpkin picture here (post #12): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010 But I've seen Cura create some bizzarre blobs for questionable, strange STL files and they stick out big time in repetier host. Repetier host is free. Once installed simply drag and drop your gcode file into it: repetier host - free download: http://www.repetier.com/download/

Stringing is tricky and I should warn you that some types of PLA will string no matter what you do. But in general you need the right retraction settings and you need to lower the temp. There are 6 retraction related settings: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers). 4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on. 5,6) For the UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Without the above part you need approximately 5.5mm retraction. STRINGING/TEMPERATURE There is also less stringing if you print slower because the pressures are lower in the nozzle. For example 35mm/sec with .1mm layers. Be patient if you care so much about stringing. And finally temperature - colder is better but you also have to print slower if you go colder to get that viscous stuff through the nozzle. Think toothpaste consistency when PLA is cooler and honey consistency when PLA is hotter: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Maybe. It looks just like it but it could also be slicer or something else. But if you are right then it simply means you were a tiny bit too close from nozzle to bed when you levelled. The levelling looks quite close. What is your bottom layer height? I like to make this .3mm to compensate for my levelling errors.

It's a cooling issue. It looks like the fan on the right (the problem side) is fine. So I think it is simply that your bed is too hot. The default is 75C which is too hot. You will get much better results at 70C. It doesn't sound like much but it makes a diff. Most people use 60C. I usually use 60C but for very large parts I usually use 70C to keep the corners from lifting. The reason it isn't symmetrical is because the nozzle is to the left of center so the left fan has a better angle on cooling the part. Also the right fan is squished a bit. Look at the gap between the head and the fan on each side. It should be more like the fan on the left. You can just pry that apart with a screwdriver.

I recommend at least .5mm shell by the way. If you want this to be watertight.

Yes, but not until it gets to the wall.

But it does 2X extrusion. In cura look at meters of filament used. Then change shell to .4 and you will see it will reduce by quite a bit (the part for the wall - the base will use the same amount).

While the UM2 is printing you can place your finger on/inside the head so that the tip of your finger is touching the heat sink and the side of your finger is almost touching that ring with the holes in it. If you "stay loose" you can "surf" the head as it wiggles around. It's not very hot. At all. It's a pleasant temperature, nowhere near the 220C that the nozzle is at. So it seems to work very very well as far as I can tell.

I printed this case for my galaxy S4. I like the case but these ballistic cases are kind of large for my pocket: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case

I've never seen one of these before. Ever. It doesn't look like a kink, it looks like the filament is wider at that spot.

Two things: 1) The printer tends to "overshoot" so going from 220 to 200 will dip down to 195 for a bit. You might want to do it in 2 stages - go to 205, then 200 the following layer. 2) The good (and bad) thing about plugins is that they are saved along with all other settings. So the good thing is once this is set up it will work for all future prints unless you go in and remove the plugin. The bad news is if you don't want it on all future prints you might forget and get it anyway.

It only takes a few minutes actually, but if you take the wood cover off the ulticontroller you will see a small potentiometer in there. You have to pretty much take the whole thing apart. Turn that back and forth (while power is on) until the display is perfect.

The printer ONLY RECOGNIZES GCODE files. Not amf or stl. amf and stl files have to be processed using Cura to be converted to gcode: http://software.ultimaker.com

Personally I wouldn't jump from 1.6 to 3.2 but would go maybe to 2.0mm.