gr5

Sorry about that. Maybe you need an episode of Myth Busters. They almost always blow stuff up on that show.

Actually it is trying to do 8mm^3. I'm impressed it did so well. The problem is with spiralize: it does it in a single pass so it is trying to do 200% flow to get that shell of 0.8. It's tough to squeeze .8mm wall out of a .4mm nozzle so it just can't quite do it. I think if you do .5 or .6mm shell you will be good.

I think it's erik's ultimaker. He's one of the founders.

I think dgsharp is correct. Pause as a gcode doesn't work on UM2 for sure, but I guess the pause function while printing may work just fine.

The machine can handle it if it tries to go "beyond the limit". It will sound like crap but it will be fine. There is a built in software "endstop" already so it won't go beyond 205mm in x or y even if you order it to. I would not skip on the bottom Z stop, but the right X stop and rear Y stop are useless. The UM2 only has 3 endstops and it works fine.

You are doing great! You have definitely proved the problem is in the Z bed movement. If power is off you should be able to raise the bed by pushing up and down on it firmly but don't do this on the front edge - do this near the back of the bed near the screws and such. It is true that the Z motor is very noisy compared to everything else on the printer so it's hard to say if what you heard was normal or not. Maybe 10X louder. Is your Z screw coated in green grease? It should be. You should have gotten a tiny packet of green grease with your UM2. But I don't think that is the problem. I think something else is loose/broken. It's okay to *oil* (not grease) the 2 vertical metal cylinders with a light petroleum oil. Any petroleum oil will do preferably with as few as possible additives.

How to continue a failed print even if you already hit power switch: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/ The instructions above could use some work... let me know whats confusing about it.

I would shave that down with a razor blade. UM1 can pause print. I'm not sure if UM2 can but I've been able to continue a long print after it failed. It's tricky - let me know if you want all the details - I have an explanation written up somewhere... So in summary - if you have a UM2, try to stop it in a recognizable spot - memorize where the print head is, and then just cut power and quickly push print head off to the side before it leaves a big blob on your print. Then you can take your time (maybe hours?) and continue the print at your leisure. However you should keep the bed hot the whole time. If the bed cools to much your print might just pop off.

Ah good - you have an understanding of the electronics. It's not the fans that get too much power, its Q4. Part number is BD679. Looking at spec sheet... Vce Max is 2.8V (I need this to know how much power is dissipated) but probably a bit lower. Max power dissipation at 105C is 15 watts. So max current is 15watts/2.8V or 5 amps. But you would need a massive amount of cooling to cool that part to 105C when it is putting out 15 watts. I think you would need a huge heat sink. But there is no heat sink at all on Q4. The part is advertised as a "40 watt" darlington. But again, you would need one hell of a heat sink. So really, it is undetermined how much current that thing can handle. I would put water on it and if it gets hot enough to boil water within 5 minutes of full fan speed, then it's likely to fail. It's probably fine. Many people have connected a second fan. And if you break Q4 it is a very cheap and easy part to replace.

Oh - now I get it. I thought you meant you swapped the polarity - swapped the two wires on the connector. But you mean you plugged the cable into the LED output instead. Now I understand. So there is nothing wrong with your wiring then. I recommend you contact ultimaker and get a new board. You are working for now even though the lights are dim and you might be able to fix that yourself using the schematic and a volt meter, but why not just get a free replacement board? Contact them at "support.ultimaker.com" and request a new board and an explanation of your debugging that led to your conclusion.

Here are my stretchlet settings. I've printed hundreds with this slicer setting: ;CURA_PROFILE_STRING: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 Save the above string as A SINGLE LINE OF TEXT into a file called "bracelet settings.gcode" Then from Cura do "load profile from gcode..." and navigate to this file.

Also - in your video - I heard a strange noise. It sounded maybe like you had retraction going on. Something is wrong with your slicing of your bracelet. It should print the bracelet/stretchlet in one continuous movement. It shouldn't stop and go back. Even with lettering, the lettering should be on the side - not the bottom. So I am confused. In other words it should print the entire bottom layer in much less time than your video. Where did you get the bracelet? Thingiverse? Can you post a link? bracelets are tricky - you have to play with a few special settings in Cura. You might need "combine everything type A" in advanced settings, also turn off "bottom" and "top" and set infill to 0%. Also set shell thickness to .4mm so it does it in one pass. This is an example of a bracelet that works well: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50748/#files (I like the curvy inner edge against my wrist - sharp corners against my wrist are bad)

Well a 3 legged stool is more stable than a 4 legged stool. Same problem with 4 point levelling. The two nearer screws to this one are probably pulling down too hard for this screw to touch the bed. Try pushing up on the bed here - you will probably see the far coner go down like this one. Levelling takes practice. Here are my notes for levelling UM Original: How to level: leveling here is defined as setting the Z height and also leveling. It's one procedure that does both at once. Optionally heat up the nozzle to 180C because a cold nozzle shrinks and you will be setting the bed to the wrong height. Make sure tip of nozzle doesn't have any plastic on it or you may level to the wrong height. I usually prefer to level with a cold nozzle but if you want extra accuracy then use hot nozzle. If you have a heated bed that should also be warm for the same reason. Home the z axis only. If you must home all 3 then you need to disable the steppers once it's done so you can move the print head by hand. Move the head as close as possible to each of the 4 screws in turn. Once at a screw tighten the screw and then slip a piece of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the paper slides very freeley. Then loosen the screw until the paper gets slightly stuck. You want the paper to easily be able to slide in and out under the nozzle with one hand pushing the paper. If the paper gets stuck it's probably too tight under there. While levelling try rocking the bed across both opposite diagonals to see if one of the screws isn't touching the bed and to see if the bed is "hung up" or stuck on the threads of a screw instead of on the screw head. Repeat this procedure for the other 3 screws. Then go back to the first screw and repeat on all 4 screws again. Then repeat on all 4 screws again. Then again. It may take you 20 minutes to do this the first time but the second time you do this it should take much less time because you are both better at it, faster at it, and because there isn't much to adjust the second time. Note that the act of putting the screwdriver in the head can apply weight to the bed and change the height. You have to be careful to put as little weight as possible when testing with the paper. If you leveled with a cold nozzle you are done. If you leveled with a hot nozzle you should then loosen the 4 screws 1/8 of a turn to compensate for the thickness of the paper. Once done leveling rotate the z screw by hand to keep the nozzle off your bed. This makes it less likely to damage your bed surface and gives the nozzle room to leak. On a new ultimaker repeat this procedure before every print (at least every hour) because the print bed can move/droop like a new guitar string. After many months the droop slows down.

I think you read the tone wrong. The tone was humorous and only a *little* frustrated. Anytime you read a "tone" that is objectionable. Stop. Pretend the writer is laughing, very hard, and read it again. Make absolutely sure that you aren't seeing "tone" that is not there. This is a very common problem on the internet and with texts and emails.

The warpage you saw wasn't due to shrinking - it had more to do with putting a layer of pla onto the layer below that still was melted. It looks warped due to heat/cooling but it's actually due to the PLA still being a liquid. That's why 75C is too hot. When a layer goes down the stretchiness of the PLA strand is like a rubber band being placed down and it pulls inward so if you make for example a cylinder it may pull in quite a bit as the layer is placed. But with lots of fan and keeping the bed at 70C or cooler you should have no trouble. The other big issue that is related is that the corners of parts lift up due to shrinking. This is more of a problem on larger parts (more than 100mm) because 3% shrinkage is more mm the larger the part and more force is applied to the corners. There are many solutions to this problem! Many solutions that all work. For example some people use the "raft" feature which allows the part to bend and shrink a little but still holds it down for a good looking part. But the bottom layer comes out very ugly. I don't recommend this method. Another method is to round the corners or add brim. Having rounded corners keeps all the forces away from a single point. This method alone is usually not enough and is usually combined with another method. The third method involves heat - a heated chamber is best at around 60C but a heated bed alone can keep the bottom of your part in the "glass" state which is soft like clay and will not lift - instead it warps slightly but not visibly. But the temp needs to be around 70C for this to work. 60C is probably not enough. The fourth and final trick is get it to stick better! This is the most complicated and simplest. Any heated bed of temp 40C or hotter is enough to get good stickiness. Glue stick helps. wood glue mixed with water helps. Certain materials help (e.g. plywood, particle board, kapton tape, abs glue for abs, hairspray, hot clean glass). Heat helps. Squishing the bottom layer a little into the bed helps.

You probably want to scale by 25.4 exactly. Cura expects everything in mm.

If you put the fans in parallel and the new fan uses the same amount of current you should be fine. The old fan will not run any slower. However the darlington transistor that controls the fans will get more stress. But it should be okay. Read about "series versus parellel circuits" on wikipedia.

My favorite supports are from meshmixer. Here is a great articale by illuminarti with pictures, instructions and so on. It works very very well: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ pay particular attention to how to rotate your part in the "annoyances & limitations" section and also note that there is a small error where he set layer height to "0.5" mm and it should be the layer height you print at e.g. .2 or .1mm.

PWM/PID mode is the same thing. If you want to do either you need to do both. PWM implies you are switching it on and off at a fast rate to achieve a percentage of power. For example 75% power would be on for say 30ms and off for 10ms repeat forever. bang-bang mode works just fine for heated beds in my experience. With bang-bang mode (like a normal house thermostat is normally bang bang mode) my heated bed on my UM1 is quite accurate probably within .5 degree C. Maybe this is because my heated bed is kind of weak. With PID mode I could probably get within .1 degree C but is not necessary. For the nozzle it is completely different. PID is mandatory to keep the nozzle within even 2 degree's C. With my house, my bang bang thermostat also kept the house within 1 degree C. Usually. On cold days. On days when it is 10C outside sometimes the house gets too hot. Not a big deal.

Maybe post a short video? It sounds like maybe a problem where the Z axis goes either in the wrong direction, only one direction, or maybe goes in the opposite direction it is supposed to? Could be DIR signal which determines which way steppers move or a Z endstop issue (when endstop signal is stuck the machine only goes one direction).

Es wäre gut, wenn Sie ein Video gepostet. Wenn Sie eine Antwort innerhalb eines Tages nicht bekommen, betrachten die Entsendung in Englisch Sektion.

I don't understand. So at that point weren't you done? Why do you need to then use the LED circuitry?

People seem to have ordered from printbl recently I gather from other posts. No matter what printer you get you are going to have issues. But usually UM doesn't get upset if you open up your printer and fiddle with it - even though that should break your warranty it doesn't seem to happen in practice. The issue isn't that the printer is complex - if you can read and write and take photos you can fix anything that breaks on your printer. The problem is fear. Fear of taking off the bottom cover or whatever. Or fear of failure. The difficulty isn't technical - it's fear of breaking something. Once you are over that fear, fixing anything that breaks isn't a big deal. These printers (all FDM printers) aren't plug and play - none of them. You are going to have issues with levelling the bed, how to tune some settings to make prints come out better. You are going to have to learn about support and overhangs and shrinkage, but you probably will *not* have to fix anything and if you do it won't be a big deal. Unless your fear turns some simple thing into a big deal. People in this forum are biased towards UM of course... Everyone I have spoken to at 3d printer shows who own both UM and competitors (usually makerbot but not always!) say UM is much better than anything else out there but... I think they are biased also, lol! According to this poll here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ Very few people actually have extrusion problems. It's just 4 people left who still have some issues and at least 16 who are fine. I'm sure there are a couple others with problems and hundreds of others with no issues. There are new feeder designs out there that you can print but I'm quite happy with my UM2 right now. No need to print up a replacement feeder.

Since you are new, and asked, I present to you a short thread of postings to help you learn a little about 3d printing - it's almost all pictures so it's easy reading! http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

The "high quality print" settings in Cura can (and have at least once) change from release to release. I've never used any of the quick print settings but you can find out what they are by slicing something and saving the gcode. The get out of quickprint mode (back to full settings mode) and you would think those are now the shown settings but they aren't. You have to do "file" "load profile from GCode...". Load the gcode file you made seconds ago and now you have it. I have a notebook. Whenever I print anything I write down the filename, the date and time in my notebook and also settings that aren't in cura (and a few that are) such nozzle temp, bed temp. And anything I'm experimenting with or is unusual. I often use a sharpie to mark the bottom of the print with a number or letter if I'm printing more than one so I can tell which is which in my notes. The actual Cura settings are saved in the gcode file so I am careful to never overwrite the gcode file. So if I make 4 attempts of printing something (each with maybe one setting changed) then I give it 4 different names so I don't overwrite any of the other gcode files. Ever. Combining my notebook with old gcode files I can reload the settings and see exactly what I did.