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Yes. Pretty sure that's right. But the second head may never be added as dual printing is pretty ugly.

Try slowing down the print on the front of the UM. You can spin the dial so it prints at say 50% speed. Just see what happens. What is the default speed? It looks like you might be printing 100mm/sec. The UM has a .4mm nozzle so .4mmX.3 layer height X100 is 12mm^3 per sec. I did that in my head (4X3 is 12). 12mm^3 is beyond what a UM can do at 210C. You should be able to achieve that (maybe) at 240C. So either slow it down or raise the temp. The current to the extruder stepper is now controlled in Marlin. There is no potentiometer. You might be able to set it in gcode or with the contoller. I don't know. Certainly you could build your own Marlin from Daid's source, but I wouldn't mess with it as you might pop off your bowden or break something else. The pressures at 12mm/sec^3 are incredible. Probably around 30 pounds of force. That's like picking up your UM by the bowden and swinging it around the room. So I'm not sure you want to increase the current just yet.

Oh. I got confused when you said "magnets" (plural). Ferromagnetic? So basically iron? Can iron be made flat? And will it stay flat (not warp, not chip or scar too much)? This could work I suppose. Why not measure a grid of 80 points and have cura mess with the extrusion flow (by controlling E, not Flow) to fill in the lower spots while laying down the first layer. There is another printer out there that does this - the UP maybe?

No! Not feedrate. Flow. Once the printer starts printing there is a new menu called "Tune". Go to that menu, scroll down to "flow". And increase that. I would go to 125% as a minimum. 110% isn't going to make much difference. Single outline and perimeter lines are how many passes you get for your wall. It's actually called "shell" in Cura. A shell of .4mm means it makes one pass with the .4mm nozzle. 2mm would be 5 passes.

You are getting maxtemp. That means you have problem with the temperature sensor (thermocouple) system.

Can you show photo of un-adhered areas on first layer? You might want to raise the print bed 1/10 of a turn.

But you need to measure at 3 points with an accuracy of better than .02mm. If the magnets are mounted a little high or low it won't work right.

Daid, jamboy claims he set that to zero.

That fan duct looks very good. You don't want to restrict airflow much as these fans aren't good at that. The only improvement I can think of is to have one on each side like the um2.

First thing that needs to be done is someone with a working UM2 out there needs to explain what is the minimum you have to do to get the fan going. Does it have to get up to a certain temp? Does it turn on when the heater first turns on? Can you set nozzle to 50C and will that turn on the rear fan? Or does it come on even when head is cold/off? Then I would probe on the board - those pink/blue wires and see if you get a voltage at the board. Then probe at the fan. Then - everywhere in between. - George

Fix that before your next print! I saw the same issue at MakerFaire and it will get worse if you don't fix it and you could break those lights. A glue gun should do it. Or tape. And don't try to fix it while printing like I did, lol. :???:

I really doubt thinner layers is better. Thinner layers are more sensitive to errors in your Z-height so you can get layers that are a little too thick or too thin. If anything I would go to .2mm layers. The idea of increasing flow makes much more sense to me. When I was doing another experiment I increased flow dramatically (200% at one point) and it helped that project but that project had nothing to do with water tight. Again, I've never done something waterproof so I would listen to BaasB and foehnsturm.

Something is wrong because there is ZERO retraction on those blue lines. If there was you would see a vertical blue line and there isn't one anywhere. Change "minimum travel" and "minimal extrusion" to zero and that should put the retraction back in. You don't have to print anything to verify this - you should see it in the gcode view (layer view).

There is a new setting in Cura 13.10 to help with this: expert config: retraction: "minimal extrusion before retracting (mm)" This helps stop exactly what you are talking about - retracting over and over on the same spot of filament. This has never been a problem for me on the UM1 so I was surprised to see this new option. Maybe the UM2 grips harder on the filament than the UM1.

Cool - who did you talk to there? Was it the MF in Italy?

I don't have my UM2 yet but I'm pretty sure it comes with an SD card. It is only if you want more than one that you have to be careful about compatibility.

Sounds good. I haven't tried glass yet (will be soon) but this video from Peter (he's great) suggests 1/3 wood glue, 2/3 water. Start around 1:30 into the video: He paints it on and lets it dry.

Oh - instead of 100% infill, try setting shell thickness to a high value - for example 200mm. This might give you a better pattern of infill. Or instead consider modeling this in CAD with a top and slicing with shell thickness an integral number of .4mm diameter passes e.g. 2mm and unchecking "solid infill top". Or is that what you did?

I don't know much about this subject. But I do know that Joris, who is the expert on making cups that don't leak, uses a thicker nozzle. The Ultimaker has a .4mm nozzle diameter hole. He uses larger - I think .8mm or 1mm maybe. I found it is easy to change the nozzle (make sure you heat to 180C first and be careful not to destroy the brass - be gentle) and they are very inexpensive online. Hopefully someone else has more information than me. Or try google.

@jamboy - that picture is fuzzy but I can clearly see at least one retraction indicator - it's those short blue lines that go straight up vertically. Could you give a second screenshot but at a better angle so we can see the vertical lines? The one around "1 o'clock" looks good and I think there is one around "9 O'Clock" that also looks good. It's very hard to tell in this image. It looks like maybe it is only retracting on *some* of the lines and not others but I'm not sure mostly because of the angle. Do you have "combing" enabled? Can you just also save your profile and post the entire ini file as text? But more importantly post another screenshot with a better angle.

Wow - 3 people following this topic - that's high for a topic with a single post - I guess everyone wants to know the answer.

Oh. Well obviously it's sticking to the tape okay, lol. So for this particular issue I recommend wider tape. I use 2 inch tape from home depot (or any paint store). Illuminarti uses 6 inch wide tape!

Just try it. If you have an ulticontroller, set to to 40% for a 10 minutes to see what looks different. Or you can do it from the Cura print window. Take good notes.

If you are having trouble with PVA, did you google your issues? (stupid question?) Ultimaker is a small portion of the people out there with 3D printers.

If you can write your own slicer, you can slice corners into 10 straight line segments and the printer will print this MUCH faster because Marlin looks at the angle between each line segment and the next. The closer that angle is to zero the less Marlin slows down.