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Try it! It takes only a few seconds. Marlin builder gives you several files including Configuration.h and also a hex file. This hex file can be uploaded onto the Arduino using Cura (expert menu) or pronterface or whatever you want. But save the hex file so you can refer to it months later when you forget what you did. The units are explained on the right - hover over the "?". I don't know if anyone has tested out the mendel90 or mendel max settings. Sorry - it's pretty new. You should ask someone who has built Prusa before to send you their configuration.h file and do a difference on it versus the one generated by the marlin builder using winmerge (free download).

Robert speaks wisely. Be aware that "bridges" are easy. So if you wanted to print a table with 4 legs touching the bed, and as long as at a certain height you connect 2 legs, then connect the connection - it will print great. So your highest section is an example of a "bridge" and won't need any support. However the left section and the center section (except for the bridge) will need some support on either side (the wing section). If you don't care how it looks just enable support. In fact you might want to try cura 13.10 as it has better support features. But if it were me, and the "bottom" of the part is going to be visible, I would consider adding my own support using cad around the edges. Maybe some posts 5mm by 5mm spaced 5mm apart. Something like that. Only needed around the edges I think.

Ahhh! sucks! :???: Are you sure it isn't dust on the filament? Or wood chip dust coming from the extruder? How many mm of filament do you think you used before it stopped working? What the hell? Were you using gray in the past? Does the clear PLA turn gray if you overheat it?

Yes you are correct but I don't know if you actually need any arduino driver. I think any needed driver is built into the operating system (usb in serial mode). You will have to do extensive editing to Configuration.h. This file sets things like how many steps/mm each of your 4 servos is, also what type of temperature reading devices do you have for the print head. Plus many other options. That's why I recommended using the marlin builder which helps you through this process - if nothing else you can use the marlin builder just to get a starting Configuration.h file: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ The above site has a very recent version of "Erik Zalm" Marlin that has been tested out. I don't think it has the absolute latest version (which has microstepping - not sure if that's useful anyway). Anyway, if you want the 100% latest bleeding edge edits committed today you can just use the above link to get your Configuration.h file.

Yes - with a Cura plugin. That would be my strongest recommendation and once you do it once it will remember this and do it for all your prints (unless you disable it again). I also recommend you always watch the first layer as if a print is going to go wrong it's usually the first layer. And if you do it's trivial to lower the temp manually. Having said that you can use one of the existing plugins. There is a generic one that lets you insert any gcode you want at any layer height. I'm not sure which ones work with Cura 13.05 and newer though as Daid changed the moves to use both G0 and G1 but the plugins don't all look for that. Or you can do it manually with a text editor. The gcodes are listed here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code And also here if you scroll way down: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/

In general, the slower you print and the colder you print the less stringing you get but some types of PLA will string slightly no matter what you do. Here is an experiment I have repeated with a few colors and brands of PLA now that demonstrates the affect: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ If the lettering is near the top of the object I would just slow down print speed to 50% (with cura print window or with ulticontroller) and also lower the print temp to 195C and then once it settles, down to 190C. Once the lettering area is done I would raise the temp back and gradually, as temp is back to normal put speed back to 100%. This can all be done with the Ulticontroller or Cura print window. In Cura settings, it's good to have the movement speed nice and fast - I like 150mm/sec which is the speed the head moves when not extruding. Be careful not to accidentally go below 170C as Marlin will stop extruding if that happens.

There could be many things causing this and I'm not sure which it is, but a lot of the time you can get a better surface by slowing down. Try printing 1/2 speed you are printing now to see what happens. The bowden tube tends to store pressure like a spring. So when the print head slows down, and the extruder slows down at a corner, the printer tends to overextrude approaching the corner and underextrude just past the corner. So this is one possible cause. Another possibility is that even though you asked for 2mm walls, in certain areas with those holes running through the corners, Cura may have been confused about how to fit 5 passes around the holes and another 5 passes along the side. It usually handles this just fine - I've even asked for 100mm skin and it usually works fine. But still. Try another slicer. Possibly Cura 13.04 which has a completely different slicing engine (but mostly the same settings so there is almost no learning curve). Or kisslicer. Older Cura's here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/

Have you seen this 3d printed rc plane? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:86982

For this very specific need I recommend Cura 13.04 or a different slicer all together (like kisslicer). Older versions of cura here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ Cura switched to a whole new slicing engine at version 13.05 so version 13.04 or older will do a good job with your infill. You can choose hex infill, or other patterns. Or the default "random lines" pattern.

How to level: leveling here is defined as setting the Z height and also leveling. It's one procedure that does both at once. Optionally heat up the nozzle to 180C because a cold nozzle shrinks and you will be setting the bed to the wrong height. Make sure tip of nozzle doesn't have any plastic on it or you may level to the wrong height. I usually prefer to level with a cold nozzle but if you want extra accuracy then use hot nozzle. If you have a heated bed that should also be warm for the same reason. Home the z axis only. If you must home all 3 then you need to disable the steppers once it's done so you can move the print head by hand. Move the head as close as possible to each of the 4 screws in turn. Once at a screw tighten the screw and then slip a piece of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the paper slides very freeley. Then loosen the screw until the paper gets slightly stuck. You want the paper to easily be able to slide in and out under the nozzle with one hand pushing the paper. If the paper gets stuck it's probably too tight under there. Repeat this procedure for the other 3 screws. Then go back to the first screw and repeat on all 4 screws again. Then repeat on all 4 screws again. Then again. It may take you 20 minutes to do this the first time but the second time you do this it should take much less time because you are both better at it, faster at it, and because there isn't much to adjust the second time. If you leveled with a cold nozzle you are done. If you leveled with a hot nozzle you should then loosen the 4 screws 1/8 of a turn to compensate for the thickness of the paper. Once done leveling rotate the z screw by hand to keep the nozzle off your bed. This makes it less likely to damage your bed surface and gives the nozzle room to leak. On a new ultimaker repeat this procedure before every print (at least every hour) because the print bed can move/droop like a new guitar string. After many months the droop slows down.

I just printed the butterfly but I used Cura 13.03. That's with the older slicing engine before steamEngine. It came out great. I was worried about the hinge but if anything it's a bit loose - so I guess I could print it smaller (I printed it at 1X).

That's just filament from the most recent print don't you think? Or is the blockage a different material/color? Are you sure there is no blockage higher up in the cooler parts of the hot end? Like in the part made out of PEEK? Or maybe down in the tip of the nozzle.

The stuttering isn't buffer underruns - it's actually vibrating in and out of tiny nooks and crannies in the STL as requested by the STL.

If you disassemble while it is below 180C you may break it. Especially the brass nozzle - do not attempt to unscrew it without it being at least at 180C. It is very delicate. Well -- delicate if you are using a wrench. Very strong if using your fingers.

A globe. That's printed on a UM Original. With the dual head upgrade. The dual color printing doesn't work all that great (not on the makerbot either I hear) and is still being worked on. Best results occur if each head doesn't sit idle for more than 3 seconds. So the globe is an okay print because there is a good mix of colors. The problem is the non-printing nozzle keeps dripping very slowly and puts spots if the wrong color in strange places on your print. Daid has some interesting Marlin code that cools down the non-printing head if it won't be used for a few layers. But he's probably too busy with the UM2 right now. edit: Or maybe most of the code is in Cura?

I'm not saying step files aren't better - they probably are. But... stl files also are scaleable (don't use pixels or voxels). If you have too many faces in your stl you can reduce using meshlab. Here's a tutorial: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html G02,G03 would be great for adding to Marlin but... most of the curves in a design are either splines or are not necessarily the same radius in 3 dimensions. So they might not get a radii in step files either. But if you are modeling a vertical cylinder it would be nice (horizontal cylinders won't get any advantage from G02,G03). - George

The stretchy bracelet is probably the easiest thing you can print. The UM2 will have no trouble.

The bottom layer. The first layer. It's very critical. The default settings set the bottom layer to .3mm so your levelling can be off by a whole .1mm and you will be okay. But if you start printing the first layer at .2mm now you need levelling to about .05mm accuracy and if .1mm then you need accuracy to about .03mm. So the first thing you need to get perfect is levelling. You know you have it perfect when the bottom layer looks like this photo: http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_203/gallery_4795_203_296761.jpg The other thing - is if you clean your blue tape with isopropyl alcohol - this will make things stick to the tape much better. The blue tape has something that is not sticky on it when new. You need to clean this off with isopropyl alcohol (or other solvents will work - probably paint thinner will work but then you have to wait for it to dry - acetone will probably also work). If these two advice don't help, please show photo of part that didn't stick if possible. Especially photograph while printing the first layer.

This looks like your pulleys are slipping. I'm not sure if it's X or Y axis - you should be able to tell that yourself. Once you know which axis it is, each axis has 6 pulleys (SIX! not 4). 4 of the pulleys have the longer black belts on them. 2 of the pulleys have the short belt (to the motor). Make sure ALL 6 pulleys have had their tiny little set screw tightened. Tighten this screw quite a bit. It should be very tight. Consider also marking the pulleys with a permanent pen and also the rods so you can see which one is slipping. Most likely it is one of the 2 pulleys on the short belt.

Actually reading steps 21 through 24 again, I think it's best to loosen the 4 screws so there is a small gap between the wood and aluminum before removing the bowden. That way there isn't any pressure on the metal knives inside the bowden clamp when you go to remove it. Just like in the picture on the right in step 22.

I don't really know. I've watched Ultimaker employees take this apart in a second on the UM2 and put it back together and the design looks identical to me. And I did it myself on the UM2 when I was helping them. But there are these little knives in there and I'm sure the teflon can get scraped and each time it gets scraped the grip can get worse. Personally I've never had to take the head apart. I had to remove the nozzle once and that's it. So I suppose if JIMMY wants to be extra careful he can take his time and take the whole head apart the hard way. It will be a good learning experience. But if it were me I would just pull the bowden out. Much simpler. Screw the risk. JIMMY I wouldn't go over 180C. Also leaving the head hot for more than 10 minutes (and not extruding) at a time can let the heat get up into the upper part of the head, soften the PLA and cause the exact kind of jam that you probably have.

Nicolinux - you already pointed out the 3 screws instead of 4 and the thumbscrews: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2969-ultimaker-2-evaluation-and-feedback/ In addition wood can warp and bend from day to day enough to need constant relevelling so this is improved with all metal. Also the glass is much flatter than the bed of the UM1. Also there is something built into Marlin. I haven't seen it but non-ultimaker people have said it is very easy to do and very accurate and takes less than a minute. I think it involves extruding plastic and adjusting the thumb screws at 3 different points. I assume this is what you are asking about? I can't say much because I didn't try it or see it done yet.

But will the wing also fit at this scale?

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Yes. Remove blue clip. Push down on outer ring (the blue clip was preventing this) and at the same time lift on clear plastic bowden. However you may have trouble if the filament is stuck in the bowden somewhere. Sometimes the diameter of the filament is larger than the inside diameter of the bowden. Here are the assembly instructions - around step 21: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Extrusion_head