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1) Still thinking endstops - if you push the print head all the way to the corner do the endstops click? Maybe they are loose and need to be moved back towards the center a tiny bit? 2) The other common problem is the pulleys that the belts go around. Sometimes the setscrew in the pulley gets loose. Your UM2 should have come with a screwdriver that fits these. Make sure they are all tight. Very tight. There are 6 per axis, 4 on the long belts, and 2 on the short belt to the motor. If you don't find a loose pulley you should remove the cover over the motor to get at that pulley also. I usually recommend using a permanent marker to make a little dot on the pulley and the shaft so that if it moves you can see it happening. You could instead try holding the short belts still and try to force the head to move to see if a pulley is slipping but this doesn't test the pulley on the motor.

Oh. Maybe you are right - maybe there is enough cpu power left over for this but I had the impression that it was kind of at it's limit (cpu too busy to add much more functionality at speed). Anyway Erik Zalm himself seems kind of excited about the new Marlin to be run on a new kind of computer chip (arm): Posted here: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/29O7CR6-r5k/tQxFpMipkucJ

Oh!!! One more thing! Maybe 4.5mm isn't enough retraction without this clip: Print this up and add a wire tie. It makes it so you only need 4.5mm for retraction. Without this clip you need a little more than 4.5mm - not sure - maybe 5.5mm. But best to just print it because if you do too much retraction, you get air in the nozzle and then bubbling and imperfect parts. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

I think you just need a different filament if you are going to avoid stringing. UM Gray probably isn't capable of zero strings. Well - one more thing to try - try printing the head real slow. Try 20mm/sec and 185C and keep the minimum layer time down to 5sec. 12 seconds is silly.

Go to file "machine settings..." and adjust the numbers there. hopefully that will get Cura to print in the other direction. I don't know if Daid implemented it in Cura but it should print starting towards the side with the largest clearance number first. If you want to force each part to print all at the same time then set the gantry height to zero.

Also move the bed down a 1/8 turn on all 4 screws. When it puts down the skirt and then the part, make sure the PLA isn't squished very hard into the tape.

If you clean the tape with isopropyl alcohol it will be even sticker. So DON'T CLEAN THE TAPE. Use fresh tape and it won't be so sticky. By the second print it will be stickier so I would change the tape after every print. Also you can increase the skin thickness in Cura to make the edge of the cylinder stronger. Go at least 1.2mm (4 passes of .4mm nozzle). Lift the edge with a knife carefully. Be patient. Then when you get a little space, use a putty knife.

Illuminarti fully answered properly but just to clarify 2 things: Yes - they are in the gcode file at the very end. Cura has a feature to load them back in under "file" "load profile from gcode". Thus overriding your minimum layer time settings. For example if you said minimum layer time of 3 seconds and it is printing something tiny and you print at 200% it will probably print each layer in 1.5 seconds and you will get bad result. But for most things this is fine. Also it's not necessarily twice as fast - the REQUESTED move speed is twice as fast but it takes a few milliseconds to get up to speed due to the current acceleration settings. Cura doesn't mess with acceleration settings - that's stored in Marlin and can be changed with the ulticontroller. And saved. I usually set Cura to 100mm/sec and then I can set the % on the ulticontroller and now the % matches the speed. For example if 50% feed rate then it prints at 50mm/sec. That way the math is simple and I can decide on the print speed *after* I slice and put the card in.

Don't know but I'm going to guess that since they only shipped the first one ever 3 days ago they just haven't gotten around to putting it up online.

Start with Cura: http://software.ultimaker.com/ Download something you would want to print from thingiverse.com or youmagine.com or design your own thing with CAD. Then open it in cura. Look at every setting in cura and hover over it to get a deeper understanding. Look at your model in XRAY view. Anything in red is an illegal CAD design (internal walls) unless you want an internal cavity. Look at the overhang mode. Then look at slice mode and look at what it actually will be printing - you can often see issues here also.

I think they just did that this week - I think they increased staff by 50%. 50%! Hopefully the new people (person) will get trained quickly.

Your idea has many problems but I like it. I didn't want to tell you the problems because I think they can all be overcome. First know that the current extruder can push with 22 pounds of force. Can a 25gram solenoid do that? maybe. Secondly the movement is very precise. You need to be able to increase by .1mm smoothly over the course of 3 seconds with controlled acceleration and deceleration. Can a solenoid do that? Maybe - but you would have to add an encoder to feedback the position of the filament. How to do that? With a laser interfometer? With a spinning optical encoder? That would probably work well and be light weight. But the software now gets complicated. Also with the drive on the head, retraction isn't as important but it is still important. Can a solenoid pull back on the filament also? Maybe. Maybe it could vibrate up to 1000 times per second pushing only the tiniest amount each time. Maybe a big solenoid for pushing and a smaller one for pulling? The existing extruder stepper motor is very very heavy. But Servo motors are MUCH more powerful for the same weight. So if we could switch to a servo it could be made lighter. Not sure how much lighter. Right now Erik Zalm and rep rap people are working on the replacement to the arduino - a much more powerful computer. And the first thing they want to do is put in servo controller PID software for the servos. So.... improvements are on the way!

That's pretty much exactly what I would expect with no fan. By the way: fantastic bed leveling - that's picture perfect how the skirt should look around the um robot - not too thin - not too thick. You dialed it in within at least 1/2 thickness of sheet of paper. Maybe better.

I think this only works in Daid's tree as it was an experiment for him to figure out how to get the PID control logic to work better (for cooling second head in dual head). It was useful because he found a bug in the PID code that had always been there. The bug *is* back in the ErikZalm branch but not the code to read back the PID terms to Cura. You can build yourself using Daid's branch though. But I don't know if it is worth it.

You did. You just didn't know it. Those gcode files are on your computer somewhere. Search your entire computer for files that include ".gcode".

lol. Is that the "face" of Ultimaker? Erik? :grin:

I like the thought. This idea might trigger another. You should post a link to this current thread into this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3174-ultimaker-rd-we-want-your-ideas/?p=23569 Someone else also talked about getting mechanical energy to the head - in their case using a rotating wire in a tube like for a speedometer cable in an automobile. This is similar to pneumatic energy transfer. In either case you need very good control of movement of the filament.

It does. Which is good. But when I do a crazy experiment like see what happens with nozzle at 2mm I sometimes forget to set it back and my next print is a mess. lol.

Sadly no as it would sometimes take longer to transfer than to print! But this issue is being worked on right now! But it means a different computer, rewriting Marlin, but it is happening. And when done you will be able to upload over network. But you might have to wait for the UM3. Ah! The blue stand?

Also make sure you run the wizard and select which type of printer you have. This is very important. You don't have to connect to a printer to do this.

Wait - now I'm confused: Looks like it sets feedrate for extruder and extrudes 3mm. But does it really? Looks like it does *not* set feedrate for extruder. Which is it? Daid?

Yes you can put it in either order. The first moves the head up, the second "primes" the nozzle. 2) The first feedrate is redundant. You can remove it. It doesn't hurt. It sets the desired speed for Marlin and has nothing to do with acceleration (acceleration is already in the Marlin firmware). From this page: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code 3) I'm pretty sure F command (feed rate) affects X,Y,Z movement but not E. It is designed for other types of machines like milling machines. Because the Z moves slower on the Ultimaker, Cura normally moves the Z separately and sets those moves separately. Remember that Cura is designed for other machines and other firmwares. So on non-Marlin machines #3 would start out fast and then slow down. There's great information about gcodes here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code and also here (scroll way down to the bottom): https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin

I've been getting MAXTEMP. It's a pain. For me it means a loose connection in the wiring. It tends to happen when the head is in a far corner. Whenever I get it I power cycle my UM and it's fine again. Some day it will mess up a print and when that happens I will probably completely replace the wiring for the temperature sensor. I can wiggle the wiring and get it to happen so I think I know roughly where the problem is (near the head). I recommend you unplug and plug back in the 3 wire cable on the top of the print head for the temp sensor. Then watch the temperature and see if it fails by moving the wires slightly. Make sure your cable goes through the black strain relief. If you keep getting these errors, switch to the unused cable but make sure you switch the other end underneath the UM also.

I can top that! I'm moving my daughter into the basement - next to the furnace. The Ultimaker2 gets her room! Just kidding.

Nope. Sometimes the USB can't even keep up with a live print. So you might have to wait longer to upload than to print if you transferred through the USB to the SD card. This is a problem of the Arduino 2560 card that is in the UM and many many other printers. Don't know what's in the "UP" though. But I do know that reprap community (and I think UM also) is working on a new, much faster, computer which will open up all kinds of capabilities like printing through wifi and touch screen.