gr5

I think you missed my point. travel speed of 150mm/sec is fine for X and Y but probably too fast for Z. So I would check your Max Z speed in your ulticontroller. The values in the parenthesis above are taken from the cura settings by the same name.

Please show a photograph. It sounds like maybe your pulley set screws aren't tight enough.

Youmagine.com

There. Now you are a programmer. It's official.

In Cura what is your "travel speed" set to? If this is a very high value it could skip steps in Z. In fact, in the ulticontroller, what is your Max Z speed and Z acceleration set to? Try lowering the max speed to whatever netfabb likes to use.

Blue lines are movement (non extruding). That's probably what you got confused about.

By the way, doing a M104 *and* a M109 does not make sense. Read about those codes also. Basically the M109 waits and the M104 doesn't wait before moving on to the next command in your gcode file.

Well if you can figure out how to post in this forum you are good enough with computers to add a T1 command. Read about Marlin commands here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#T:_Select_Tool Read the "select tool" section. The T1 needs to be on a line BY ITSELF. Not mixed with M104 command or other command. The first part of the line is the command.

In the background of the very first picture - with the girl kissing the UM robot - is Luis Rodriguez who is a frequent poster over on ultimaker google groups. Luis also organized the big Kansas City MakerFaire last year and he helped out at both Ultimaker booths NYC. I'm the bald guy in the second picture down. I also helped out UM at MakerFaire NYC. It was non-stop crazy busy both days.

You need Marlin firmware if you will be using Cura. Baud rate should be 250000 or 115200 although I would expect 115200 to be more reliable. There are many ways to build your own custom Marlin. One of the methods is to use this Marlin builder: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Not really. You could definitely upgrade the electronics. Everything is plug compatible. If all you did was modify the electronics you would have to get the "daid" version of Marlin and change the steps per mm for the z axis back to what it is on the UM1 (I guess you can do that without rebuilding marlin as you can change that with pronterface or through the panel). And you would have to tell it that there is no heated bed. It might not even work right. And the feeder steps/mm is changed also. Yikes. And Daid's special code that feeds the filament at a low servo voltage so that it stops when it hits the print head... that would likely have to change also as the forces are probably different. Yikes. Lots of little software changes there. That wouldn't be worth the trouble though unless you had something broken in the electronics. Hopefully UM will offer a bed upgrade. There is a huge improvement on the print bed. It's a new z screw though, and the limit switch is different - would require all new firmware to handle the new way of zeroing the bed but on the old ultimaker. And the power requirements require a new connector. It's a big change. Then there is the print head. The newer print head is much nicer. Easier to take apart. Better design. Can handle higher temperatures. Less likely to clog. Has 3 fans instead of one. It's possible to upgrade this but you would probably have to upgrade the slider blocks. You could of course easily add side panels and LED illumination strips. Upgrading the filament feeder probably is not worth it. The latest UM1 feeder works very well. I know someone who just ordered a UM1 *and* a UM2. The UM2 will be for ABS, Nylon only and the UM1 will be for lots of miscellaneous purposes and will get hacked (e.g. dual extruder upgrade).

Wow! Interesting project. Will you also have to somehow synchronize the two ultimakers so that one waits for the other to lower the z table and they do it at the same time? And move the 5th motor at the same time at the end of each layer? Or will each ultimaker print a portion and then, raise both beds up, slide the 5th motor, and print again? Anyway, interesting project.

There are 2 fantastic places to understand gcodes: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ (scroll to the bottom or nearly the bottom of the link above) and http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Nice pictures. 1) Use your magnifier to look at your nozzle hole carefully. Is the hole round? Does the nozzle have a chunk missing from the tip? 2) Possibly water in the filament could cause this maybe? A pocket of steam adds extra pressure and pushes a little extra filament out, then a few seconds later you are underextruding when the steam pocket comes out? - George

First of all I hope you used layer view before wasting all that time on the printer. The layer view will clearly show what is going to be printed and what is going to be ignored. I suspect the width of the walls of your iphone case are less than .8mm. But cura won't print anything thinner than 2 passes. So you can: 1) Make the walls of the case at least .8mm (preferably 1mm if they are curved or angled or .8mm exactly if they are vertical). or 2) If the walls are only a little thinner than .8mm - say .7mm, you could lie about your nozzle width, and say it is .35mm and it will come out okay - not perfect - but it will mostly work out okay. Cura will underextrude but at the same time make solid infill lines closer together so overall it should work out. ALWAYS LOOK at your model in layer view before printing. also: How did you resolve that problem where it suddenly stopped printing? Why leave us in suspense for 2 days???????

Daid is saying they don't cause any problems. You can ignore them. Are you having another issue? Besides messages in the log?

Vous pouvez commander le Ultimaker 2 maintenant. Le plus tôt vous commandez, plus vite vous obtiendrez un. Mais les premiers ne seront pas embarqués jusqu'au 21 Octobre. Je pense que le prix du transport (DHL) est calculé après vous commandez et donnez votre adresse. Je ne suis pas sûr. Je ne travaille pas pour Ultimaker. Le Ultimaker 2 a construit dans le lit chauffant. Si vous voulez chauffer toute la chambre, vous pouvez couvrir le devant et le dessus. Il est recommandé de chauffer le lit à environ 45C lors de l'impression PLA avec un bâton de colle pour obtenir une bonne adhérence. Mais si vous avez des problèmes de déformation puis le lit chauffé devrait être beaucoup plus chaud. 70C pour PLA. Plus chaud pour le plastique ABS.

Also if you don't heat the second nozzle above 170C, I assume Marlin will block the stepper from rotating. How does this allow you to print larger or faster?

Just found these today on google+ for makerfaire nyc taken by several different people https://plus.google.com/u/0/events/c5ci0tuqm9o1krku6k6i3u3mgs8

Well it's obvious to me at least that there is nothing wrong with your temp sensor but something wrong with your heater cable. This is easier to debug and trace than temp sensor. When it starts drifting down, check the voltage under the UM to see if the relay is broken or if it's the wiring. Also jiggle the wiring under the board and along the path to the nozzle heater.

They probably won't get back to you until Monday morning. Good luck though.

The UM1 and UM2 have a .4mm diameter hole in the nozzle. This means it prefers to print everything (in X,Y directions) with a multiple of .4mm. So skin ("shell thickness" in cura) should be set to either .8mm or 1.2mm. If you set to 1mm it will make 2 passes. One or both of which will overextrude. It will probably work okay but .8mm is probably better. You can print for example a section of fuselage by printing a vertical cylinder (conical cylinder) and telling Cura to not print top or bottom solid infill in the expert settings. But you will probably have much more complicated shapes with holes and such. Which means you will have to model the thickness of the walls of the fuselage. This will have to be done in CAD and will be annoying and maybe difficult but most CAD software can do this. When you do that you must have walls at least .8mm thick or Cura will simply not print them. You can print thicker than .8mm to any width e.g. 1mm and if you select solid infill, Cura will underextrude the exact right amount to fill in the last .2mm properly although this is kind of buggy - or at least it won't be the ideal pattern of movement. But it will work. Whereas .8mm or 1.2mm walls will work as desired (2 or 3 passes of the nozzle).

My UM weighs about 15 pounds but the front half weighs about 5 and the back half about 10. So if the print head is near the front of the UM and you only lift the front part you are only pulling 5 pounds. Can you completely lift off the table? The feeder should be able to pull about 22 pounds before it grinds the filament instead of moving it. So if it can completely lift the UM off the table, that's pretty good but not as good as it should be. What temp and speed and layer height are you printing at?

Sorry you didn't get a reply from support. They were all in new york city probably around the time you wrote the tickets and they got swamped but they are responsive now. Anyway it sounds like it's too late. This is common and can be caused by many things. For example, filament can be tangled, extruder issues, hot end not hot enough, or a partial clog. 0) What temp and speed and layer height were you printing at? For example 200C at 100mm/sec .2mm layers is too fast and too cold to do both at the same time. Whereas if you change that to 240C or instead change it to 50mm/sec there should be no problem (either or). 1) Nozzle temp - it might be reading high and so it might be actually at 160C when you think it is at 220C. So set it to 105C and make sure touching it with water boils. 2) Nozzle clog - this is a pain to fix, maybe look at this last. Are you in a dusty room? Dust can cling to filament and get inside nozzle. If room is dusty, put a piece of tissue paper around the filament with tape so it gets cleaned as it gets fed into extruder. If you do remove nozzle, heat to 180C first, unscrew very gently (it's easy to break brass). Clean out with gas flame on stove or similar. Make sure you can see throught the hole. 3) Extruder not working right - it should be able to pull 22 pounds with no load - so pull back the filament so it doesn't reach the hot end, then turn big gear with one hand and fight it with all your finger strength in the other hand. If it seems less than 22 pounds, maybe test with weights. If it is less than 10 pounds send us photos of your extruder both open and closed.

Mine is very heavy. 1.4kg and it's fine. I get good Z movement. Better than many people. But I recommend something lighter if possible just so that it doesn't take too long to heat up. You might want to wait for the heated bed upgrade for the UM1. No idea when it will come out though. But the HB for the UM2 heats up almost as fast as the nozzle. Mine takes 20 minutes. :(