gr5

Okay re-reading - I see you already came to the same conclusions. Well - wouldn't it be better like this design though? Where one section fits inside the next? Easier to get perfect seams. If they mate flush then it's harder to get it aligned perfectly in X and Y. If you want solid infill, it's probably faster to just set shell to 20mm (solid) which will give you basically infill parallel to the walls of your cylinder. If you do normal infill it does diagonal to the Ultimaker bed which takes longer to print. The print times are always a low estimate. Pretty close for an object like this but not for small objects. This is because it doesn't include the acceleration - it assumes full speed for every line segment but in reality, Marlin decelerates and accelerates the print head at every junction of two line segments. But your object will print close to "at speed" because it is large and doesn't have thousands of tiny corners to zig zag around.

I tried to slice this with cura at 1X scale (wow - this is going to be a big plane!!). I had to remove the skirt in expert settings because it was outside the build volume. There were some problem spots on the bottom due to the cylinder not touching the build plate in a few places. There are two arcs that don't touch the build plate. Do you need those? If so you can just flip it over. Also you have these cylinders which start about 1cm in from either end. Those are a problem as they are floating in the air. For those you might have to add "support". Also the 4 small cylinders seem to have a wall between them and the main cylinder. This is where you should be adding the fillet. To make a good strong connection. Right now it barely touches and those 4 cylinders could probably just pull right off the main cylinder. Looks like a good start though! This looks like a huge project.

The biggest problem with ultimakers for new users is bed levelling and the um2 hit this issue very well. For one thing you can calibrate the level at the factory and it won't change through shippings! Amazing. Also it has a new wizard and turning the screws is so much easier I think. Right now when I put the screwdriver on the screw on the bed, just the weight of my pressing gently down on the screw shifts the bed down. There is a belt tightener built into every block, and setscrews are hopefully tighted real well also so the pulleys won't slip (although this might be the most common problem - who knows!?).

When the first layer is .3mm thick you only have to level to an accuracy of .1mm which is about the width of a piece of paper and difficult to do but not too bad. When the first layer is .1mm thick you have to level to about 1/3 of the width of a piece of paper. This is very difficult. On your "fine" settings I'm guessing the first layer was .1mm. Also I can see in one corner the layer is so thin because the bed is closer to the print head. Some people just grab the z screw as it's printing the skirt/brim and twist it a few clicks if it is too low or high.

Plugging causes underextrusion. So it can be both of course. This description is strange. The feeder should be able to push/pull 22 pounds of force. That's harder than I can actually push on the filament. So either you are using pliers or you are much stronger than I am or something doesn't make sense. Could you test your feeder? Make sure it can pull at least 10 pounds of force? Put the filament only a few inches into the bowden tube so there is no forces required to get it into the print head (bowden should be mostly empty). Have 2 one gallons jugs of water (or milk) nearby. They weigh 8.3 pounds each. Feel the force it takes to lift one. Now try to fight the filament and have it feed filament. For example you can just turn the feeder gear with your left hand while gripping two water jugs to the filament with the right hand in such a way that you are neither lifting nor pushing down with the right hand - just gripping the filament locked to the 2 gallons of water. Can you lift this by turning the big feeder gear? If not something is wrong with your feeder and we can talk about that (start with photos of it open and closed). If this test passes then something must be hapening at the print head. Maybe a "soft" clog. Maybe something else. The next time it clogs you could just pull the bowden tube out. While the print head is still hot, remove the blue clip that holds the ring up. Then with one hand push down on the ring and with the other hand pull out the bowden tube firmly. Look inside the tube and use a flashlight to look down into the print head. Is there a clog? These clogs in the upper part of the print head are usually caused by lots of retraction. Retraction pulls the hot filament up which touches the sides which heats the upper part of the print head chamber. Then the next retraction moves the heat further and further up until it gets hot enough to soften the PLA and cause a jam. Or maybe there is a clog in the nozzle itself and you are just amazingly strong (compared to me). I feel like we still haven't ruled out 3 completely different possibilities and you need to start eliminating them to narrow it down to the actual problem. And there are more than just these 3.

Could you maybe video the first couple of seconds of both methods? Include the homing step of course. I want to know if I can hear differences also.

very strange!

Try infill 20%. The infill algorithm changes drastically at 25% so I've been avoiding anything over 25%. When I want 100% I instead set the shell thickness to 200mm (lol) which works well.

So I'm confused. You clearly describe underextrusion but what made you think it was a plug? Can you explain this better? Are the models with issues - do they have much more retraction than the earlier models that printed fine? 150mm/sec should be fine at .04 layer height. This is only 2.4 mm^3 per second. This is equivalent flow of 30mm/sec travel at .2 layer height which is definitely not pushing the limits.

I removed my nozzle for the first time after 9 months of use and it came off pretty easily. However I have never printed ABS. Only PLA. I believe I only heated to 180C. The UM2 apparently doesn't have a nozzle that you can unscrew - not to my eye anyway. The nozzle and the heater block I believe are all one unit. So changing nozzles on the UM2 is more complicated.

Well it looks exactly like what I would expect if you printed at one speed and then did infill at a different speed. Set infill speed to 0 so that both speeds are the same.

I agree with what am001 said. In the photo it looks exactly like that is what happened. If you are lucky the MOSFET (that 3 pin part) won't be damaged yet. Maybe but I doubt it. Any solder you use has flux mixed in which is a brown sticky stuff and looks similar to burn marks. It looks more like flux to me. Flux can be cleaned with the correct solvent.

Just to clarify - 150mm/sec is fine if your layer height is < .1mm.

1) Could be dust. Are you in a dusty environment? Some people use some tissue and tape to make a loop around the filament as it is about to feed through the feeder. 2) Are you sure it's a clog? Measure the new PLA with calipers. If it is > 2.99mm then it probably occasionally hits 3.05 or 3.1mm which is enough to get stuck in the bowden tube. You could verify this on the next "clog" by trying to pull the pla out and it should be difficult. 3) Could it be wood splinters from the feeder? Open up the feeder and look in there carefully with a flashlight at the hobbed bolt. Maybe even remove the black delrin clip and slide the big gear out and look at the area carefully. 4) Could it be your filament is tangling? This often causes problems after a while. 5) Could you be printing too slowly? If you are printing .2mm layers I doubt it but if .1mm you should be printing at least 50mm/sec if not 100. And if .05mm layers than at least 100mm/sec. I mean many people can print slower but if you do heat can drift up the hot end. Especially if there is lots of retraction (which slides the heat up due to sliding warmer filament). Then what happens is the filament gets too soft high up in the hot end assembly. Actually this probably isn't the problem as you would have noticed clogs high up (as opposed to at the nozzle). What do you mean exactly a "plug"? Is it the kind in #5 or is it down in the nozzle? If #5 then print cooler/faster and with less retraction (4.5mm is plenty).

Illuminarti and (the famous!) Joris both use larger nozzles. I keep forgetting the sizes. I think maybe .65 and .8 respectively. Joris needs it for his cups. If I tried to print these cups with only one nozzle pass I think they would leak: http://www.thingiverse.com/joris/designs

I was going to print that Monday but when I ran it through Cura and looked at layer view it had too many problems. One of the antenna wasn't going to print and part of the hinge doesn't start printing until the 3rd layer - in thin air. I turned on support but it didn't put any support under that in-the-air hinge. So I just decided not to bother. Maybe I'll try kisslicer this weekend. Or an older version of Cura. I don't think Fix horrible is necessary in this case as I believe I did xray view and I believe there was no red. But I could be wrong.

What happens if you turn the Z screw by hand? Maybe the z stepper isn't attached? Maybe you need to show a very short video. Maybe print something of dimensions 1cm by 1cm by .3mm and just show the end of the video.

Again, did you try this part of codemaven's instructions? I have never used netfabb. It just seems like codemaven gave you an answer but you didn't respond to his question. I think maybe you *did* respond but it's not clear to me. Maybe codemaven understands.

Merci de me corriger. Je n'ai jamais imprimé ABS donc je suis content que quelqu'un avec une expérience répondu. Je voulais simplement répéter ce que j'ai entendu d'autres personnes, mais j'ai probablement mal compris. Aussi garder à l'esprit, beaucoup de gens impriment seulement ABS et ils sont très heureux avec elle.

Cura is free and easy to use to see how things will slice. YOu can use the xray view to see problems (for cura) in cad files and you can slice it and look at layer view to see if it is printing solid where you expected and openings where you expected. However Cura is only a slicer. You can't change the model (other than scale and rotation). For that you need CAD. I love google sketchup which is free and find it easy to use but it just doesn't do all kinds of things you might need to do with a complicated shape like a wing. It's fine for editing existing CAD models (like a wing). And for breaking a model up into multiple pieces and making simple changes. But you might want to learn blender instead. All of these CAD programs have tons of free youtube tutorials or web page tutorials and such. All of them are quite a bit of time before you are really good at them. OpenSCAD is another free cad program which is TOTALLY different. There is no mouse clicking - you don't draw anything - you type in basic shapes like cube(10,20,30) which is a 10 by 20 by 30 mm cube. And then transform and twist and add and subtract shapes and you can use for loops to make gears and logic and parameters to make generic gear builders and there are libraries - tons of libraries to make these things easier (such as making 3d text on your model). And there are many more! Freescad is another one. I love this one but it crashes on me soooo much. And seems buggy sometimes (sometimes it refuses to extrude or revolve and can be frustrating). Solidworks seems to be the standard but it is NOT free. I've been meaning to try tinkerCAD as I heard good things about that one. You should ask around, talk to mechanical engineers maybe. Play with a few free cad's or do their trial version.

The guy who invented it, Bernhard, is active over on groups.google.com in the ultimaker group. Try posting this question there.

1) Il ya une garantie. Après la garantie, vous pouvez acheter des pièces de rechange. 2) PLA ne colle pas bien au verre et peut tomber pendant l'impression. Ceci est corrigé en pulvérisant le verre soit avec la laque, bâton de colle, colle à bois ou de mélange avec de l'eau. 3) Je n'ai pas imprimé avec ABS. Il est beaucoup plus difficile. Il obstrue la buse plus facilement si vous imprimez trop chaud et trop lent ou si vous laissez la buse chaude et ne s'impriment pas. Plus important encore, elle se rétrécit un peu en refroidissant. Je ne pense pas qu'il ya des problèmes avec des trous ou des pores. Votre sous-marin est magnifique. PLA est généralement préférable. ABS est habituellement nécessaire uniquement si elle obtiendra plus de 40C de température. ABS est difficile et l'odeur horrible quand vous imprimez. PLA est très fort et plus facile à travailler. Mais si vous laissez une partie PLA dans votre voiture par une journée chaude et ensoleillée, il va changer de forme et être poubelle.

What? Dust in the z screw? Dust in the filament? I don't get it. I thought the pattern was regular. I guess maybe the problem doesn't show up in the photo? Or maybe the entire part was underextruded?

Which part of CodeMaven's instructions didn't work for you ePower?

It sounds like either your build plate is bowl shaped, or your gantry rods are bowed. Also keep in mind that your print bed often needs re-levelling. The wooden arms that hold it droop and also warp and change from day to day. Also the print bed tends to get kind of stuck on the springs and can suddenly move or if two opposite screws are a little tight then it can rock on this axis connecting those 2 screws. So during the levelling process I kind of have to push and pull on the plate to make sure it is settled. I level a lot. Every day. Still. :(