gr5

If you tell it the nozzle width is .3mm and you make say 3 passes on the skin (1.2mm) then it will extrude the correct amount to get a .3mm width bead. But the nozzle is .4mm so it will be a little underextruded but not too much but on the second pass, there will already be a wall in the way and so it will extrude perfectly. Same with the 3rd pass. So mostly only the first pass will be underextruded and the final outer wall should be pretty decent. Solid infill works even better. It will always put out just enough to fill in a .3mm line and the previous line will be covering part of the nozzle so it should work pretty well. It basically mostly just works. But if you tell cura the nozzle is .2mm it will also work but not as well. You just have to experiment.

lower temps seem to do better with stringing - they reduce stringing. I don't know any other advantage of lower temps. Higher temps reduces underextrusion (less pressure in the nozzle) and so that also allows you to print faster. But you get more stringing. I've heard that higher temps can improve bonding. I haven't experienced this. Also higher temps can sometimes get you a shinier look. I haven't noticed this either.

I think after 5 posts you don't need to be moderated so you can get past that by just replying to this one saying "cool.". Some people are lazy about levelling. It only takes a minute but it's a pain in the neck. So instead they just start printing without levelling first and if it's off by a bit they just grab the zscrew and twist while it's printing the skirt.

Don't get "brim" confused with "skirt". They are similar but "brim" touches the model and skirt doesn't. Skirt's purpose is to both get the flow started and also it gives you a chance to manually grab the z screw and turn it a little for a minor adjustment in height.

Oh. I called that the A shaped part. Yes it looks good.

jhertzberg has very good advice. Why brim? Because sharp corners lift too easily. So much force is all on that one tiny spot at the corner of your part. Enough to lift it. Once the corner lifts the force is spread a little more but now there is leverage to pull more and twist it up. So a brim makes the corner round. Also the brim doesn't have any higher layers so it can concentrate on holding your part down. An ideal brim would get a little thicker where it meets the model. Why isopropyl alcohol? It works! It increases the stickiness to the blue tape by 10X. Why? Because blue tape has a wax on it to allow it to be unwound. This wax needs to be removed with isopropyl alcohol. You can buy this at any store that sells bandages such as a pharmacy, supermarket, convenience store. The next problem you may have is that the part sticks to the blue tape but the blue tape lifts from the bed. This is fixed with wider blue tape. I use 2 inch. Some people use 6 inch blue tape.

Waiting for the next Cura isn't going to help. Those ears are just too thin. As Alex tried to explain. And Illuminarti. And now me. Personally I would just not shrink the yoda by quite so much. Cura will not print thinner than .8mm unless you tell it you have a nozzle smaller than .4mm. If you tell cura the nozzle is .3mm it will work relatively just fine. If you tell it your nozzle is .1mm it won't work so well - as it will underextrude by much too much.

So if you look at the extruder motor - can you see if it is turning or not when it makes this sound? The extruder motor is normally MUCH stronger than it needs to be. Try this: Lower the bed 2cm or more so the nozzle can extrude into air. Heat up the nozzle to 200C (either with ulticontroller or with Cura print dialog or with pronterface) Once temp gets above 180C, turn the extruder gear by hand and watch the filament come out. Feel the amount of pressure needed to get filament to come out. Rotate completely at least 3 times - see if there is a "bad" spot. It should be pretty easy to rotate the extruder gear as long as you go slow but if you go too fast the pressure builds up in the nozzle and it has more trouble. This is normal. But once a bit of filament comes out for a few seconds it is easy again. If that seems broken then you might need to fix something on the extruder gear. If that seems fine then turn the extruder with the stepper motor. You can do this with ulticontroller or panel. Don't go too fast. Maybe 6 seconds for a full rotation. Or slower. See if the motor makes the sound. If it does, it is probably the stepper driver or maybe your power supply is defective (not enough current). Maybe there is something wrong with your Y stepper that draws too much current. The amount of current sent to the stepper motors is controlled by a tiny little potentiometer on each stepper driver. Maybe the Y stepper driver is turned up too high. Google about how to play with the current on the steppers and how to test if it's turned up too high - something gets too hot - I forget what (maybe stepper motor or maybe the stepper driver?).

I thought so at first also but look more carefully. The part is angled 45 degrees to the print bed. The normally "diagonal" infill is now lined up with the part. The blue arrow that nancy drew is pointing to the front of the machine.

To be able to print that fine you need to get your z stage working better. Personally I think .2mm layers looks very good. If I wanted to get finer detail I would go to a smaller nozzle (.25mm) before trying .05mm layers. I built my z stage differently than most people. I built it very tight. The z nut DOES NOT MOVE. It's very tight. I had to put in shims to get the screw and the 2 rods to all line up perfectly and still have the stage move up and down very smoothly. It's easier to do this with the Z screw *not* connected to the Z stepper motor. To get it perfect. If you want .05mm layers you need to rebuild that Z stage. You might also want to print slower. Practice with smaller models maybe. It will take a long time to get very good quality. Alternatively you could try laybrick filament and stick with .2mm layers: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/08/13/printing-with-laybrick/

It's easy! You just check the box that says "heated bed" and choose the correct thermistor: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Sorry to be so lazy about it but... Can you give me a time code in the video? Like as in minutes:seconds?

This happens all the time for new machines. There are a few possible causes but 90% of the time it's a set screw that needs a little more tightening. Clearly the X axis didn't slip - it was the Y axis. So you only have to worry about that one. One thing that helps a lot is putting a little sewing machine oil on all those rods so it slides more smoothly. Anyway the fix is to tighten all 6 pulleys. There's 4 Y axis long belts near the top of the machine, and 2 on the short belts. One in a difficult to get to corner and the final one on the motor which is also difficult to get to. You will need to remove the cover in the back left. Sorry. It's those 2 on the short belt that are the most likely that slipped and those are the 2 that are the hardest to get to. You could mark the pulleys and the shafts with a marker but why mar such a beautiful machine. Another possibility is skipped steps on the motor - very unlikely though as you have been printing at max acceleration all this time (not necessarily max speed but certainly max acceleration). You need to tighten the hell out of those pulley set screws.

Very interesting post! I never thought of that. I don't think the 45 degrees fill is for strength. It is for speed. If each stepper (X and Y) can move 100mm/sec maximum then your diagonal will be 141mm/sec. That is why infill is at 45 degrees. I'm 90% sure. I don't think there is any strength advantage. If you want a stronger infill you can use a honeycomb infill. It takes much longer to print but is stronger than "square" infill. It is available in cura 13.04 and older. Cura 13.04 is quite dependable and is a good version to use. Or you can use kisslicer.

Stephan - first of all know that I had troulbe with warping - I got a heated bed - but now I don't use it because I found other simpler solutions. So what exactly is your issue? Do you have a photo? Is it warping of the corners? Or something else?

If you look at the print head - the nozzle is to the side. That is why it prints like that. That is normal. You are less likely to get the horizontal layer lines with a .2mm layer print as this hides issues like this very well. The horizontal lines are either over or under extrusion. The piece with only one line appears to be overextrusion. There are 2 common causes: feeder or z stage. It appears to be a Z stage issue where you ask the z stage to move .06mm but it actually doesn't move at all or moves much less. That's why moving .2mm will fix this issue. Or even .1mm might be enough. There are many things that can mess up your z stage - the most common is the Z nut. The z nut (the huge nut inside the z stage) is designed to slide left and right a little. Sometimes when the Z screw rotates, the Z nut also rotates so the platform doesn't go down. You can fix this by taking apart the Z stage and building with tighter tollerances. If everything is perfect you might be able to clamp the Z nut in place, but if the Z screw is warped a little you want to allow the Z nut to slide but not rotate. Other possibilites is the feeder. For example if the filament gets tangled or stuck - then you get a bad layer with holes in it (underextrusion). Or if you print to cold and too fast you also get underextrusion.

I agree. It's minor though. Basically you are a tiny bit too close to the print bed. I would turn the screws tighter by 1/8 of a turn. Although that might be too much. Or maybe just the screw closest to this A shaped part.

I couldn't hear it. Sorry. Whatever it is -- it is very quiet compared to the printer. It doesn't sound serious. Consider removing the extruder servo from the back of the machine while doing this levelling wizard to see if that changes the sound.

This one is great: https://ultimachine.com/content/thermistor-100k And pay the extra dollar for the sleeves. Note that ultimachine is not associated with ultimaker.

The skirt around the nearest part looks good. The right side looks a little thin - but it looks quite good overall. Good first layer.

Quoi qu'il en soit le fait est que UM2 est mieux, mais vous aurez toujours besoin de réparer des choses sur elle très souvent au cours des premières semaines.

Well I would get pronterface. It's free. You can transmit an M106 S255 manually with pronterface and see if the fans come on without having to heat up the hot end or anything. If they don't come on then you will need to check the wiring all the way back to the board somehow.

UM2 est probablement plus fiable, mais il est trop récent pour savoir encore. Le lit est très cohérent. Il peut prendre plusieurs heures, mais vous avez seulement besoin de niveler une fois. J'ai déjà vu 3 personnes démontent leur UM2 pour nettoyer la buse.

This is true. The flyback diodes are already there so don't worry about diodes.

Live action! Printer porn! I hope you get good at printing without blue tape some day. You need to just heat to around 50-60C and use gluestick - the kind children use. In the new UM2 there is a "motion" menu and in there should be some parameters like "xy jerk" and "xy acceleration". Lowering the acceleration by half will greatly reduce ringing marks without slowing down large prints much (but it will slow down small prints - at least short movements). If you don't save your parameters to eeprom, your acceleration changes will get lost when you next power cycle the UM2. More details about ringing and accleration here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006 Also sometimes vertical lines are caused by other things. Probably due to slight overextrusion. See second photo here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ Note that that person was able to remove by lowering temp but they could have gotten the same result by lowering flow by 10% or so.