corngolem

This is actually a question, I figured I would get a faster reply here than from the ticket system. Is the indicated price of 1895€ excluding VAT ? When will the machine be shipped ? Is the lead time still of 1 week ? And what are the specs ?!

Can be because the 3D model is corrupted. In any case, this is not tinkercad support.

I need a raft to avoid destroying the print stuck by hair spray. Cura's default raft is too strong, I was trying to copy Makerware's raft which just right.

The tooltip says "..this is the distance between the centerlines of the raft line". What does that mean ? I'm changing the value but I don't see (in the gcode visualization) any change in the base or interface layer. P.S. I'm trying to change the spacing between base lines.

How recently is that ? 3 months ago they were using ingeo 4043D, if now it's different then it's not 4043D anymore. Yes silver (and gold) filaments sucks, grey or cream would be much better for a first timer.

If the corner is near the edge of the tape strip then it's going to warp a lot more than if it was in the middle of the strip. Masking tape is made to be removable, so it doesn't stick that well. You could try printing anchors (helper disks). Or get rid of tape and use hair spray (must contain vinyl) but in this case it will stick so well that you risk breaking your part during removal (talking about this I'm interested in solutions).

I've noticed that every single time my Replicator's prints start successfully, and that most of the time my Utlimaker's print start unsuccessfully (they fail). So I would like my Utlimaker to use Makerware's start gcode. Since I don't know gcode programming yet, could someone else do it ?

I'm in the normal view mode and the fix horribles are unchecked. I'm fine with autoslicing/prepare but ONLY if doesn't impact other operations (bugs excluded), otherwise it's a design choice that can NOT be justified. Actually that should be the reason for it to be in the background, not its speed.

I disabled auto detect SD card drive and I don't have a virus scanner. I still see a slow down after I manipulate a model and before slicing starts. I'm not sure if it's due to 3D rendering or to slicing. As mentioned I have the latest available version.

How long a job took to finish is displayed after it's finished, in the bottom left corner, but it disappears if you navigate the menu. As for the time it is going to take, Cura can estimate it.

Is the slow down supposed to be fixed in version 13.06.5 (last one available) ? cause I was given a highly detailed stl today and I can't manipulate it while it's being sliced. Mac OS 10.7.5 iMac 27" mid 2011

I'm not the most knowledgeable on the subject but if you ask me: PLA as you already know has a low glass transition temperature so if it's not cooled quickly enough (as I suppose it's the case with the filastruder) it stretches (becomes thinner) under its own weight. The pulling force changes and thus changes the diameter. Moisture can also have sever twisting effect. A twist stretched out makes a bump. That glass transition temperature could also be responsible (otherwise it's its molecular structure) for PLA to be extruded 3 times faster than ABS, basically it's so liquid that it pours out of the nozzle without much pressure.

The nozzle and everything (except the temperature) is the same but the polymer is (very) different. Maybe someone solved the problem but I didn't see it written how to modify the assembly for PLA.

Colorfabb developed their own polymer, I think that's why it took them 3 months. It probably wouldn't have with Ingeo. The filastruder was designed for ABS, not PLA. It extrudes PLA with a diameter that is too small and with variations that are too important. There's no clear guide on how to fix that. About drying it, considering how fast PLA absorbs moisture and how slow the filastruder is it will be moist again before 1Kg is processed. (I have one)

No good for PLA.

What's the difference between both ? When the print is finished the UltiController displays a second time in the bottom left that is different from the one on the right.

So you're talking about the Current / Google Groups section. I thought it was an aggregation of a real newsgroup, then an aggregation of the latest posts, but it's just a place to post anything uncategorised. The point of using a forum is that you can organize content, if you don't want to do that, don't use a forum, use a newsgroup. Recently there was a migration from one forum software to another, this should indicate that Ultimaking Ltd wants a forum, otherwise somebody doesn't know what he's doing. Makerbot for example has a newsgroup and it gives me the feeling that I can't know what was published, I can't browse content, I can't get an overview, it's pretty frustrating.

This, is made impossible by that: Capital cities, even the 10 biggest cities don't make the majority of the population and they don't make the majority of 3D printers.By waiting for a city to have N printers, people of that city will never have access to a 3D printing service (through 3Dhubs.com) before YEARS.

Ok I'm tired of it. Which fan that is guaranteed to stay silent can I use as replacement ?

This is a very ambitious project, it's thingiverse + tinkerCAD + some kind of forum. In my opinion nothing is going to become more popular than thingiverse for a long time (you can't beat a leader until it falls by itself), but youmagine could take the second place. For a project/brand to exist it needs to have a proper name. youmagine makes me think of yet another you-something website that flies on the youtube/Web 2.0 trend and doesn't exist by itself. For now I only use thingiverse to download files and one thing that could be improved (in youmagine) is that all files (not just the zip, files in the zip) should have an identifier so that after we download them we still know where they came from. Ideally, since some files will be shared on multiple sites, each 3D file (not just each 3D project) should have a world unique identifier, like goods have the same bar code no matter the store. I prefer block modelling, like Legos, that's why I chose tinkerCAD (for now, 123D Design being more featurefull but less intuitive). If I had to improve it I would make the camera centre movable so I can look at parts anywhere even high up. I would add many more customizable shapes and I would make dimensions and positions a lot easier to edit. Online editors have two big caveat: they don't work if the site is down of if the user's connection is down and they slow down the browser. That's why I would recommend having a local editor in addition, they all could be based on an existing cross-platform solution such as Unity 3D. I don't know if a forum type of text exchange community would be adapted, but, what I know is that right now generalist 3D printing forums don't work, 3ders.com, 3dprinting-forums.com are desert, 3Dprinters.com closed as fast as it opened. The only one that is successful and could be the model is shapeways.com

The world leader in PLA pellets is Natureworks, it sells the Ingeo 4043D and 4032D which are suited for 3D printing. That's what you should look for, but filament sellers might not know what they sell, refuse to tell you or lie to you/been lied to by their supplier, so you'll have to test. Also, filament manufacturers might add their recipe to the ingeo pellets or use other brands. Finally, the less colourant there is the better it prints. Silver and Gold are the worst, white and black are unfortunately not the best either. To evaluate a material, print Makerbot's and Make magazine's torture tests.

It was 3000 earlier this year, I would say it's now around 3500. Generally you can multiply the number of forum participants by 2 to know how many customers there is. Note that they deleted many spam accounts.

Oh ok, I thought everything was in the tabs or expert window. The values are 205x205x200mm which are the same as what I get with Ulticontroller, so I'll use that.

I see "Skirt, Line count" but not where to change the bounding box.

The advertised volume is 210x210x205mm. However each of these dimensions is wider than the blue bounding box shown in Cura (13.03). On the other hand if one uses the "to max" button in Cura one gets 178,2x178,2mm which is notably smaller than that same blue bounding box. Only the height of 200mm is a match. Perhaps if one moved the head using the Ulticontroller one would get yet another set of values. In any case, I need a part as big as the UM can print, how big is that in reality (with default hardware) ?