valcrow

Thanks, I almost never have it attached to the computer... I've installed the new firmware and so far so good! need to do more in-depth testing, but the first print so far was a success!

I'm on 14.03 I'll update to the new one. for the 3mm question, I meant 3mm of layers built up. so layer 30, if at 0.1mm/layer. I'm printing relatively slowly and a pretty small layer height so I don't think I'm hitting my extrusion limit. (35-45mm/s @ 0.12mm/layer) This firmware thing... I looked into it, but it's a Hex file? I have no idea what to do with that...

That's much clearer, Thank you! I'll try those.

I JUST got my UM2! yay! Unfortunately I seem to be suffering from this as well. When it prints, it prints wonderfully! But half the time, it's stopped extruding about 3mm into the print with the filament grinded down. I read the thread but I'm not actually sure what the solution is... could someone clarify? Is it to install Robert's extruder? Use an earlier version of Cura? I'm on a stock new machine.

@Aaron, That's a clever solution! I'm impressed at how freely it seems to be able to spin on just PLA. Thanks for sharing! @Braddock that's enormous indeed! and it doesn't seem like it suffers from faceting! nice!

Great prints and design! The Mill looks paticularly stylish. Did you print in a bunch of pieces? or used supports?

Thanks! I'm glad the UMO holds it's own! @aaron, yes, the top piece is one piece. the the whole base (4 pyramids) is also one piece. The breakdown is how it's printed, 5 pieces only. You've been busy! The motor thing looks like a beast, what are you gonna connect it to? And the gear math involved... yikes. The flower pot shape somehow works so well with the print lines. Gimble is very cool as well! Nice you have video of it with the motor. seems like the gimble spins really freely is that a printed joint? or metal dowels?

I was testing some architectural stuff for future projects, mostly having a crapload of thin walls and a large base. I came across the mbot Mars challenge so I thought I'd kill a few birds with one stone, adapted it and threw it up there. Really happy with how the print came out on the UM1! That's like a 50 degree incline half a cm thick. The first few tests had stringing like crazy beetween the walls and the sides started curling, After turning off the fan, and thickening the walls a little bit, came out clean like this.

Great stress test! let us know how it goes, I hear having PLA prints in hot cars is a bad idea, but haven't seen any real evidence of failures.

Apparently I don't have permission to view your images, but I can see the thumbnails. Why don't you just print that part upside down? It seems to have a flat surface on the other side which is ideal.

That's why it's happy corner!

I think all these clean desks are misleading, we should post what our desks really look like at the peak of a project.

I like glue as long as it's not the only thing holding it together.. (split objects no good, peg + hole = good) As for nuts and bolts, I can never find the right ones being in a metric country that's beside the US imperial system, you can be sure not to find what you're looking for. Good to see differing opinions though.

Hey Folks, I've been designing a lot of stuff lately and I was wondering... When you go to thingiverse/youmagine or similar services, how do you decide if something is worth printing? Are there certain things that just make you go, nope! not worth it? For example, Immediate no nos for me: -if there is no printed sample along with the STLs by the author. -If it requires additional fasteners like nuts and bolts. (glue is acceptable) -if it requires a lot of cleanup -If there are a ton of parts and not immediately apparent where they fit together How do you filter your decisions? And what makes you tick the most about public models?

Yikes that is scary sounding.

Is it just not 'optimal'? or does it just flat out incompatable to use 3.0mm filament in the UM2? I use this cheap but decent grey stuff that's 3.0mm +- 0.1mm in the UM original, while tight in the bowden tube, it still works as long as you're not going super fast. Just so I know for future filament orders...

Yeah I normally torch it and then do a variation of the atomic thing. I have a UM1 so it's not too hard to remove the nozzle. I was just wondering if an ultrasonic cleaner would work, it would be nice to do a deep clean once in a while, but alas it's not that effective. On a side note.. the ultrasonic is amazing for cleaning airbrush parts though!

Sometimes it doesn't work if your object is too tall though, so beware.

You can use some nail polish in place of loctite.

Try 1500, Fixed the ringing for me. And doesn't feel like an earthquake on my table.

That UV filament is so cool, didn't even know that existed. Might make for some pretty neat effects when duel heads become more common! Nothing super fancy, but I was particularly happy how my custom support worked out! Paticularly because there is virtually no good angles to print this shape. snapped off easily and cleanly. Gotta celebrate the little things.

If true, this makes my blood boil... We'd all have flying cars by now if it wasn't for patents.... It's almost as stupid ashttp://www.diyphotography.net/can-close-studio-amazon-patents-photographing-seamless-white/

Hm that might be a bad thing that I buzzed it off then?

Ok, so I got a pretty nasty clog so I tossed it into the ultrasonic cleaner. (with just hot water). The rusty bits around the threads (does brass even rust?) started bubbling off pretty quickly. I was suprised how much built up rust gunk there was on the threads. However it didn't really seem to do much to the plastic stuck on the insides though, or even the outside of the nozzle. Round 2, I torched the nozzle with a butane lighter (one of those creme brulé ones) to melt the PLA out, I was hoping to burn it off enough that they turn into that fine black stuff. (my silver PLA is kinda impure that way). Let it cool for a bit and tossed it in again. Didn't seem to do too much. I tried to print something and it basically ceased up on the 20th layer of a small cylinder. :/ There was this nasty clog of black presumably burnt PLA. sooo. back to the old way of heating it up, pushing some PLA through cooling and then yanking it out with all the gunk until you get a nice cone shape. That way still seems to work the best. It did clean the threads really well though. Maybe I would have better luck had I used some solvent. I just didn't know what to use.

I don't have any comparison pictures yet, but I want to + 1 this effect. I'm using 14.03 and while not as pronouced as some of your folk's bumpyness it's noticeably not as smooth as 13.11. Watching the head, it does some slowdowns in areas where it should just be a constant speed making it slightly bulgier and is inconsistent from layer to layer.