valcrow

That looks like a grub screw is loose. I had the same thing on my first few prints. (left screw loose) (right, fixed) So these guys here: They should have a grub screw on them, you should have also gotten an extra set of silver ones in a little zip lock bag. If you haven't installed them during your build, replace the black ones with the silver ones and really tighten them down. That should solve your skew problem.

Glad that worked out for you! this one was driving me crazy for a while too... 25% infil is the magic number. it halves the support square size without increasing the filament usage much. I would do at least 5 layers of top and bottom for a nice surface too.

While I can't speak for the other printers, as a UM original owner, although the machine itself looks and feels a bit retro, the results are by no means outdated. The print results are comparable to UM2 prints (except the ABS thing). And while there has been strides made in the past few years in materials, build and marketability, the core technology hasn't really changed all that much. You can run virtually the exact same print on the UM1 as you can on the UM2. There has been a ton of advances in Cura though, and UM1 takes advantage of all of that good stuff. So no worries about not being able outdated. And plus, PLA's not that bad. It smells kinda sweet, starts up in about 2 minutes, no bed heating/cooling time, almost no warping. What's not to like? The UM's a workhorse, it works reliably, fast, accurate, assembly is easyish, tons of support and experienced users. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2128-new-ultimaker-kit-review-first-samples/?hl=valcrow&do=findComment&comment=14706 http://www.redicubricks.com/ So yeah! UM1! dooooo it!

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone has tried tossing their Nozzle into an ultrasonic cleaner? I just remembered I have one of these things floating around and might be perfect for cleaning up, but I'm afraid it might damage the tiny nozzle hole. Is it safe to do? will it have any effect on PLA residue? What kind of cleaning solution besides water should I use? For clarity, I'm just talking about the UM1 Brass tip.

That looks great! I saw that on youmagine and I have a dremel, I just never know what to do with it... Is it stable?

If you right click on the file -> properties, it should say "type of file: STL Flle (.STL)" if you're using a mac... I have no idea.

I think the original nozzle has a smaller face.. which I'm convinced makes a big difference in printing quality. Here's a fresh super-macro of an original nozzle.

When you open a model in Cura, it should appear on your buildplate, you should be able to move it around and scale it and such. On the Right side, you should be able to go to the 'layer view' and see what the printhead will actually do. Where specifically are you having the problem? when you open the file, does it just not show up on your print plate? What's this weblink you're getting? This is what it would look like when you load a few STLs in Cura... (Sorry it's in timelapse mode) http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Cura_test.mov

A mechwarrior!! :mrgreen: +like for Daid I print lots of small parts and attach them together with small printed pins. Not quite as small as Daids, but I mirror his comments. Low temp + slow speed is the way to go. Also there's some PLA that's more viscous than others, I find the viscous ones work well for small parts as they don't ooze as much. I print small single parts like pins at 40mm/s @ 30%-50% on the controller. Orientation is most important for details for small parts I think.

That's good to know... Thanks for sharing. I'm glad I got an extra hot end kit with my UM fearing heavy shipping costs from the EU. Turns out that was a good move when one of my nozzles died. Just curious if you have any pics of some of the failed prints? I did some tests a while ago with some nozzles and my busted one.. just want to see how they compare.

Fun game, goes on sale regularly on steam... I think I got it for like a few bucks way back when.

Hey There, Welcome to the 3D printing world! I'm not sure what you're downloading, but you need to download .STL files. Then you can open them up in Cura, they'll appear as a yellow model. From there you scale/move/select your print settings, wait for it to generate the Gcode, (little progress bar under the floppy disk) and then copy the .GCODE onto your SD card by clicking on the disk once it's done processing. Your printer should be able to print the file then. so recap: INTERNET -> STL file -> CURA -> .GCODE -> SDCARD -> PRINTER You can get things to print here: https://www.youmagine.com/

Cura can open Jpegs and makes a printable plate. Try it!

We should start with a boat/battleship for proof of concept for waterproofing before we go full submersible.

Those look pretty good to me... I'm not seeing this build line issue.

Good on you, the world needs more bees! Also, why not just make it a cylinder instead of a box? The important stuff is inside the cylinder anyways.

Well we can always start our own group project!

primer would definately help, but might not solve it completely if your paint is too runny. Try not thinning your paints, or get some thicker stuff, they shouldn't do the capillary thing as much. Or, for a better result, emboss the numbers into the geometry of your print. It'll make painting easier, you can even sand off the surface after putting paint in for a really nice clean finish!

You can plug in whatever percentage fill you want in Cura. from 0 (hollow), 100% (solid) and anywhere inbetween. Any percentage inbetween will generate a square grid pattern. The higher the number the tighter the squares the stronger your part. But LIke Robert said, very rarely do you ever need a solid part... I've only ever printed one thing solid, and that was the bow part of a mini crossbow. 25% fill already gets you a pretty strong and ridged part.

Looks great! Maybe print the base upsidedown and hollow like a dish?

Sweet! nice pictures too!

That looks great! It's so very clean looking. The scale is kinda wonkey though, it looks tiny because of the DOF, but the print lines seem quite fine. Tilt shift?

Looks great! what paint are you using? that metalic paint seems more reflective than most.

Maybe check your nozzle too. I had similar artifacts and 'fuzzyness' on one side when my nozzle was damaged. I mitigated it by printing really slowly.

Thanks all for the kudos. @dim3ntioneer - I think I would be ejected from being a jedi for neglecting my lightsaber to that level of rustyness. :oops: @Aaron - that's a clever solve! Love seeing stuff that's well designed for function... Just makes you appreciate all the little things. @takei that's cool! does it rotate smoothly?