valcrow

It functions as a nametag & container (not for whiskey). Usually I put poop bags in there so she carries them around during walks because I always forget them. The tap acts as a locking mechinism, turn it 90 degrees and the lid pops off.

Been super busy.. but I guess that's the good thing about printers, you do your thing and they do theirs. I made a ginormous barrel. Failed twice at around 18 of 22 hours :/ one was user error and the other was a clog. But it finally finished! As big as my buildplate would allow on the UMO. I usually make them this big: Yes, same dog.

There are I think, mariem, PM_dude, alex_3d they make some cool stuff!

I believe all those upgrades are already included with the current UMO's from like a year ago on. Mine came with a V2 hotend, knurled bolt and extruder upgrade. Ulticontroller allows you to use SD cards to print untethered from your PC and controls the UM speed and tune settings from an knob and LCD. Otherwise you'll have to run it through USB.

You can try cutting some relief shapes onto the bottom to reduce the warping. Particularly at the corners. This is where the UMO+ and UM2 shines, the heated bed makes joining halves a real treat. With a glass bottom, it's almost perfectly seamless.

I would do the 'cut off bottom' option until the point sinks into the build plate. The brim (with supports) should now encompass the tip to keep it in place. bah! solidprint beat me to it.

Did you mention if the 3rd fan on your hotend was running? That one being off will cause heat to creep up from the hotend into your bowden tube causing the filament to expand like you're experiencing. There should be a fan on the hotend that turns on the moment you turn your machine on.

Also when you turn on your machine does one of the 3 fans on the print head turn on?

*raises hand*

I understand the need to look for numbered statistics when you're shopping for a new printer. Most people do including myself. But once you get to play with one, you'll realize soon that it's almost irrelevant. There's no way to really know if the stated precision is practically achievable or even remotely accurate. The table it sits on has more influence on the print quality than the 0.8 micron on paper difference. I always recommend to people to look at examples of prints online (not from the company). Prints don't lie. I couldn't find much on the copperhead which makes me a little weary about their claims but they could just be too new. I think the biggest quality factor is how consistently every subsequent layer is put down. The layer resolution and XY precision, not so much. You could get really nice prints at 0.12mm/layer printing relatively slowly to ensure consistent layers. A far shot away from the 0.02mm/layer marketing would like to tell you. Peruse through here to get an idea of the stuff UM people are making: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-133 If you have specific things in mind that you intend to make with it you should post here, and someone here will have an example for it I'm sure.

Late to the party... but just tested mine!

So what infill did you end up using? 25%?

That's funny because I use 25% specifically for the denser look/fill. I find bridging across many small squares gives me a much more reliable nice top surface compared to bridging across large squares (which results in the pillowing). In conjunction with around 6 layers of top surface. I'm not sure if 24% is much different than 25%, but 25% looks a whole lot denser than the default 20% due to the parallel line thing. My fan is usually at 100% by the time it gets to the top surface, so the only option left besides creating some junk geometry to the side is to increase the infill to solve the pillowing problem. Increasing fan speed isn't a solution to pillowing most of the time because it's already at 100%. I never noticed 25% infill reduces the quality of print compared to 20. I'm curious why you don't like the 25% style infill? does it result in a weaker part overall due to the every-other layer bonding?

You can also increasing the infil to 25%. Instead of creating a square infil pattern, Cura will make parallel lines much tighter every other layer creating a better bed (or possibly airflow between gaps?) that dramatically reduce/eliminate pillowing. @robert - maybe consider adding this to your comprehensive guide? seems to work for most people I've suggested it to. (and personally as well)

Sorry I meant the ultrasonic machine works great on airbrushes, and not on printer parts. I think if you had ABS in your nozzle, an ultrasonic clean with some acetone would probably do wonders. Not sure what eats away PLA though....

It didn't help very much at all. Didn't clean the PLA out. It did degrease the thing very well though. (which is not what I was going for) I tried regular heated water, soapy water, and even some hoppes 9 for science. Failed to clean the nozzle and the brass tuby thing. I wouldn't recommend it. However if you have an airbrush that thing works wonders! a little baggy with some airbrush cleaner, comes out brand new.

Good to hear their new North American partners are working out! And welcome fellow Canadian!

on my UMO, i stick the brass piece in an ultrasonic cleaner, I think it buzzed away all the grease.. would like to know as well. (and how essential is it?) On a side note, would CPU thermal paste work? seems like that would conduct heat just as well if not better, just don't know if it would be able to withstand that kind of heat. And I always seem to have some of that floating around.

I'm not sure it's fair to compare the quality between shapeways or imaterialize, which is a full service printing solution with professional printers, to Cura, an open source slicer for FDM. They are two different worlds completely. There are many more inherent limitations with FDM technology compared to what they are using. Regardless we can help you get better results with pictures. But I wouldn't expect shapeways quality prints from ANY fdm printer/slicer combo.

That's too bad, overly cautious legal policies I'm sure.. This is one of the best examples of mechanical printing. And one of the coolest working object prints I've seen. You keep doing what you're doing.

Hi and welcome! I have all 3 printers at the moment. UMO, UMO+ and UM2. Print quality: Quality is very good on all 3 printers. Even though I have the UM2, I don't hesitate to print a part on the UMO that would assemble into one piece. But there is a slight quality advantage on the UM2. particularly on filling the top surface. Sometimes my UMO looks slightly under extruded on the top surface even when it's filled in nicely at the bottom. The edge quality is just as good though (which is the most important) The 2 fans on the UM2 gives it an advantage on overhang quality. For the UMO(+) you will need to sometimes orient your part so that the detail side is on the fan side to ensure that it'll come out nice and sharp. Or add a fan on the right side, or make a cyclone fan shroud. (but we're talking stock machines here!) In general, the UM2 is much easier to achieve good quality prints. While the UMOs are fully capable of doing so, it requires a little bit more finessing in my experience. Click and print: The UM2 is the only one I would consider close to click and print. Once dialed in, it truely is click and print. (not that nothing will go wrong down the road, but while it works it works great). It's starts and stops retract and extrude the right amount of filament. Glass plate heats up automatically, and first layer PLA on clean glass is almost always perfect. I set a file and just hit go on my UM2. In contrast, UMO+ requires a little bit more attention per-print. You need to pre-heat, and then manually prime the extruder by turning the extrude knob and then hit go once heated. Not quite as automatic as UM2. But still not bad! UM1 is the least so. There is tape you constantly have to worry about. It rips when you take your part off, it sometimes doesn't stick properly or too well. It is usually required to watch the first layer go down on the UMO to ensure the print will be successful. Preheat and prime is required as well, but it's a lot faster than the UMO+ and UM2 because you don't need to wait for the bed to heat up. There are advantages to printing on tape on occasion. UM2 is the quietest as everyone has already stated. Especially the retraction sequence. I would have trouble sleeping with a printer going on in the same room. (and I've tried both UM and UM2.) Next room is ok. You will learn a TON if you assemble your own. I'm not a hardware savvy person, and I put together the UMO. It's not too hard, instructions are clear and you only need a screwdriver that's provided pretty much. But the troubleshooting knowledge you will gain from assembling yourself will save you so much headache in the future. UM2 works in very similar ways to the UMO so if you put one together you'll know how they all work. I would say if you have the monies get a UM2, if you wanna save some bucks and learn some things, build a UMO+. both are capable of really nice quality prints. UM2 is just easier in every way, and looks like a stormtrooper.

That's really awesome! thanks for the video!

Wow suppper cool! you have video of it in action? does it work?

This must be lamp week. Lookin great! The wood/linen combo is wonderful. @ Ignace De Keyser how did you cast the lamp? did you burn the PLA off later? Is that not heavy/fragile?

I buy from http://www.voxelfactory.com/.http://www.voxelfactory.com/.%20Colorfabb%20stuff%20is%202.85mm Colorfabb stuff is 2.85mm Their generic stuff is really good value, but they are 3.0mm +- 0.1mm so they 'can' get tight in the bowden, but still usually works. Buy at your own risk though! The colorfab stuff is better quality, more expensive.