valcrow

The visibility of the damage to the PTFE part is usually quite minute. It could be just a little bit expanded, or a tiny lip on the edge (where it sits on the brass). If you dunno what you're looking for it could look totally normal. You can temporarily repair the PTFE part to extend it's life by a month or so if you clean off the lip that most likely formed at the bottom. Stick a piece of filament in at a slight angle and see if it 'catches' on the edge. If it does, you can use a drillbit or exacto knife to clean the lip off and it should work for a bit. If the internal diameter is expanded, you won't be able to fix that manually but that doesn't happen nearly as often as the lip.

This looks like the problem is in your PTFE part (the white thing). If you are unable to get a good pull after a few attempts, it's most likely that there is a gap, lip or an internal diameter expansion on your PTFE part.

The result of an atomic pull can tell you many things even if clean. Paticularly the section right above the brass nozzle area. Sometimes there is a disk indicating space between the PTFE and brass nozzle, sometimes you have a huge stretch indicating some kind of friction or block preventing a clean 'pull'. There are a lot of clues.

Most of the time the problem is in the nozzle and the symptom is at the feeder. An enlarged or lipped PTFE part can cause this since when it retracts, material builds up in the PTFE and cools and makes it more difficult to push on each retraction. I would do an atomic pull and then if clean and doesn't solve your problem, post a picture of the filament.

If there is resistance in the tube, check for a lip or bend at the end of the tube, and check to see if there is pinching where the clip and white collet goes on the tube. There should be some scratch marks from the collet, but it shouldn't be pinched. Also broken filament is usually bad filament.

Separate parts are the way to go for best quality. You should design in a peg/slot and just glue that part and it'll hold well. Super glue works great for PLA But it has to have enough surface area to stick well. I find it takes slightly longer to bond PLA than some other plastics. Also, some super glues come in a gel form which is a lot more forgiving than regular superglue.

There are two platforms, the UMO and the UM2 family. The majority of parts of the UMO is compatible with the UMO+. The only difference being the motherboard, and the Zstage. Stuff that goes on the frame and hotend are generally interchangeable. The UM2 family, (UM2, UM2GO, UM2:EXTENDED) use all the same parts, the only difference being the frame. And also the UM2Go has no heated bed. So any mods that works on a UM2 will work on an Extended or 2Go. Mods will generally work within the same family of UMs. Nozzles, extruders etc all work somewhat differently on UMO vs UM2 so cross family compatibility isn't there. I'm not really sure there's a big need for a compatibility guide if you just go with the family thing.

I've only had this one time on brown filament. It broke in several places in the bowden tube when I moved it, and once when I left it for a while. It's strange because that's the first time that's ever happened and it was one roll of filament only... so I think it's strictly filament QC related and nothing to do with the printer. UM silver is the best quality IMO, I've never had that break. But maybe a bad batch is going around?

Agree with GR5 on the gap being too large, but I'm not sure that would cause the problem. This kinda looks like the problem I had. My PTFE coupler interior diameter was larger than it should have been, so what happened was when it got to retraction areas, the filament would heat up be retracted and expand into the PTFE coupler by a few fractions of mm and then cool in it. The larger diameter prevented additional filament to be extruded since the diameter is now larger than the brass tube. If nothing works I would take apart the head (it's not that difficult!) and check the PTFE part. My atomic pulls were looking fine like yours as well. Have fun at Pasadena guys! I won't be there this time :/ but my doppleganer will be

Check your advance tab, under speed, and see if Infill is at 85mm/s. The advance speed overrides the basic speed if you have them set to non-0. (if you're using older cura) If your basic speed is 30, and your infill is 85, it will cause all kinds of issues since 220 is too cool for 85mm/s and too hot for 30. Try setting everything to 40mm/s on your next go in the advance tab except for initial layer speed.

Check your 'fix horrible' settings between the two profiles in the expert menu. It looks like your mesh has holes, interpenetration or other errors and Cura will slice it funny. Fix horrible A or B (i don't remember) usually fixes the most common mistakes but sometimes fills in holes that you don't want. A REALLY early profile might have turned off fix horrible. It was only on by default later on.

That should print fine from the looks of it. I think if you have already a grasp with 3D modelling you'll have a good time with a 3D printer.

A long shot, (but I've done it before and it drove me insane for half a day) Check that the "initial layer height" in cura is not less than your print layer height.

I'm not sure if they've changed this in the new Cura, but the default print speed on the infill was 80, while the perimeters were 30. This difference in speed causes the underextrusion, because while 210C might be ok for 30-50mm/s, it is too cool for 80mm/s which is why your exterior usually turns out ok and infill is spotty. So I would recommend you switch it over to advanced settings and checking to see that the infill is not much greater than the perimeters. I've written about it here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15403-cura-default-settings-needs-a-speed-tweak?page=1#reply-106777 Alternatively you can try bumping the temperature up to 230, which should be ok for 80mm/s but is a bit hot for the exterior.

Usually it's top right -> bottom right -> top left -> bottom left I just do it that way. But sometimes it depends on the height of the object and I haven't figured out how it chooses.... But you can start with that and just look at the slice view to see where it's going first.

I think the ringing actually comes from the frame. I'm not entirely sure though I'm just a graphics nerd. Reason being, if on an unstable table, the ringing gets noticeably worse when the thing is allowed to shake more. (and the whole table does it shake!) Another reason is, if I hold the frame, being a squishy human, absorbing some of the vibration motion, it noticeably dampens the ringing effect for the few layers that I did hold it. So I think it has to do with the resonance of the whole box. This shouldn't technically affect belt ringing if it was caused by that yes? When you turn acceleration down to 1500ish, the frame doesn't shake NEARLY as much even on a shaky table.

There's a checkbox in cura that says 'print with supports' (with quick settings) check that on if you want supports. If you're in full settings, under basic tab there is a support subcatagory, just change support type from none to touching buildplate.

I doubt it, it'll usually start flowing when you're printing due to the pressure/heat allowing more stuff to flow out. Usually turns into this black syrupy tar stuff that is quite liquidy at 210, but kinda hard candy like at room temp. But if it's not major you can usually clean it up every 5 prints or so or whenever you do atomic pulls and you should be alright.

This looks like burnt PLA ooze squeezing out between the block. I've had that on one of my UMOs. If not taken care of eventually it will flow out over your block causing a big black mess and it'll drip onto your prints leaving splotchy black zones. So I would recommend you heat it up to 90C. and then using pliers pull off the gunk. It should mostly come off in one piece. Then heat it up to around 180 and then using something to hold the block tighten the threading between the block and the brass tube. You can hold the block and the peek. Be very careful though, if you torque too much you may snap the brass tube. Again don't over tighten and definitely don't angle your torquing pressure, you just want to tighten it a bit. Again. gentle. good luck.

Also make sure your nozzle exterior is relatively clean, sometimes some residual stuff on the side of the nozzle 'drags' the newly extruded material along creating thin string. I find if you have a lot caked on, set it to 90C and it peels off like a skin. (you can do a cold pull too while you're here. )

I saw it printing at a small canadian makerfaire recently, the build looks kinda... cheap. BUT it does look like it prints pretty decent for a small flimsy thing. Albeit a bit slow.

Here is a balljoint that I made a while back for a mech. IMO, PLA doesn't hold very well onto itself for these types of joints and they tend to loose their grip over time relatively quickly. But none the less this worked for me for a bit as long as you don't play with it TOO much. A general rule of thumb for me is, create a separate part for the ball part of the ball joint. Reason being if it's going to break anywhere it's going to be there and you can take it out and replace a small part rather than a large piece. Larger figures may be easier to make, but this piece in the render is quite small. The ball itself is roughly 0.5cm diameter. Aaron's ronin is amazing by the way! Played with it in person. Very impressive.

Nice! I think... sooooooo. for us non-electric people this is fixable in firmware? software?

Agree with Gr5. I've had this exact issue and symptom and it turned out to be tangled or snagged filament that corrected itself after a few layers.

You can use 2.85 and 3.0 But you cannot use 1.75 (hope that's clear..)