valcrow

Hi! I designed the turbine, did you print with these settings? this goes through the printing and assembly. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19639-vertical-axis-wind-turbine This IS a difficult print because of the connection, so you'll need to use our settings exactly. And you need to make sure your bed is well leveled and it has good adhesion. to answer your questions though, the wings should join together, you shouldn't be getting the big gap. There usually is a little bit of artifacts, but not that huge. Again refer to the settings on the guide. The kind of flaws I was getting is shown here: When assembling the turbine, you need to follow the guide to the letter as well. The 3 blades should be joined first by the circle nut. Followed by a partial insert of the pins. Once ALL the pins are partially inserted, tap them in. As for the bearing choice, sorry I couldn't get something more common, I had a bunch of these at the time. The stand can be easily modified to accommodate other size bearings in mesh modelling software.

This is where I recommend too. But I don't think they're the official UM2+ couplers. I'm not sure of the difference maybe Gr5 Knows. Either way they will be better than the standard PTFE ones.

You are in Poland though? we're in Canada, so you could probably find the part cheaper (shipping) closer to you. But those are the right parts to go with however!

And you're printing in regular PLA? 350 hours is not unheard of to need to change out the PTFE, it depends on a lot of factors like what you're printing, how long and temperature. There should have been an extra PTFE coupler that came with the machine so I would try to install that first to see if that solves the problem. There are new couplers now, they last a lot longer so after you wear out your second one, get a TFM coupler.

The little blobby disk in the bowden is likely causing the extra friction making it difficult to move the material forwards or backwards. In this case, you should actually move the material forwards, cut off the little deformed disk part and THEN rewind the material. The usual cause of these evil disks is often the PTFE has developed a lip/cavity, or something is not seated flush between the hotend system (brass tube, PTFE and bowden) How long have you been printing on the Go? it might simply be time to change out the PTFE. I would recommend the new ones from the + if you have a choice.

I had a similar thing happen. This is the result AFTER I cleaned up the bits at the nozzle. It is cleanable, work slow, set the temperature to about 120C and start chipping away at it. when you get close to the metal, drop it down to 90 and you can peel the stuff off as a skin and leave a nice shiney finish. The parts covering the wires will be more difficult and you'll have to be more gentle. Or as labern suggested use a hair dryer.

UM filament is expensive in comparison, not just in Canada but everywhere. Currently it's $59 CAD http://shop3d.ca/product/ultimaker-pla/, If you look at American sites, it's also $59, but USD. http://www.dynamism.com/filament-accessory/ultimaker-accessories.shtml So it's actually 30% cheaper in Canada right now I've used a lot of UM filament and many other brands and there IS a difference in quality, colour and reliability as Neotko said. The most important difference I've noticed is the bare glass sticking quality and controlled stringing. If you're printing regular sized objects, no problem for $30 rolls. But if you regularly make smaller footprint or detailed objects, you'll feel the loss in productivity due to lower quality filament. The ability to 'stick' onto clean glass is for whatever reason (probably unicorn blood) is much better on UM filament than others that I've tried (with the exception of innofill). From a practical standpoint this difference translates directly into time/cost. I usually run large prints (i try to go for 16 hours) overnight so I come back in the morning to shiney new pieces. Which often means many pieces on one build platform in all at once mode. If I use cheap filament, I will need to use a brim to ensure it sticks, and will expect a little bit of stringing cleanup in the morning. The brim on complex, small footprint objects will take me a while to clean up. If I use Ultimaker/innofill it can likely print it without a brim and stringing is almost totally controlled. If I need something FOR SURE to be done the next day, I will not risk it with cheap filament. The risk of failure is just not worth the cost at that point. So while it's more expensive, you could be saving a lot of cleanup time in the end. If you factor in the time for failed prints and cleanup you'll see the value in good filament. If you're looking for Ultimaker quality filament at a lower cost, try Innofill, we just got them, and have been using them a lot in the past few months. Same spools, performance, and glass sticking quality. I think they're almost exactly the same as Ultimaker filament. http://shop3d.ca/product/innofil-3d-pla-filament/ Anyways, choice in filament is always good, choose the right tool/price point for the job and enjoy all the perks! Low cost filament for large draft things, and premium filament for print jobs that you're making money on. If it's too pricey or too low quality, you can always choose to buy something else.

@sandervg Yup! that's exactly it!

Lol, I felt kinda bad since I posted and THEN saw your response. I felt like I'm one of those pushy North American folk pushing advice on people unsolicited.

I would have made the round smooth part flat (since that part doesn't do anything?) and made that the bottom. The pegs will then print at 45 degrees upwards, and you would have a solid contact on the bottom and require no supports. It will be pretty!

I don't disagree, but for $100, it might be a fun toy. For sure it can be a fun toy for $100. But if it never materializes for $100 then it's not so fun. I don't think anyone is saying don't get it, just that it is safer to purchase it when it comes out, even if it's slightly more expensive. -it could years delayed as we've seen with a lot of projects. -It could fail completely -another competing product could be better and come out sooner during the production of this product. At that point you'd be locked in. And EVEN if they hit every promise they set out to do and the product is wonderful. You can still buy it when it comes out without the risks and disadvantages of pledging early.

I edit STLs all the time with 3d studio max. Any mesh based system will work. (not that it's easy, but possible) Blender can do it and it's free. Most others can import but have a lot of functions disabled due to the fact that it's not a solid when it comes in.

Yeah there's a bunch of things that bug me about this. -Their resins come in clear bottles. Photosensitive resins! in clear bottles! ok fine, it's just marketing right now, but that's a little unrepresentative. -They handle and wash their prints without gloves in a kitchen sink. Liquid resins washed in a place where you make food is not such a good idea since it's toxic. -Not using gloves is also quite irresponsible marketing. I've used the daylight resins before, I assume it's similar since that worked on LCD screens as well. They don't cure well, after a week, the prints are still tacky :/ Perhaps it's a different resin, or they will have it solved on launch. But until we see first hand, I remain skeptical. Cleanup remains the most daunting part of owning SLA/DLP machines, and this is going to be a doozie to use. The one major thing it has going for it however is using the phone screens. Since smartphone screens have amazing DPI compared to most tech you could theoretically get some really detailed prints if everything else works as advertised. I'd put this in my list of interesting KS projects that have great misleading marketing videos. I will certainly be interested if it becomes a real thing, but never before.

Wow! What's that print? I think it was some enclosure for an industrial scale. A company had a highly modified Gmax printer that kept failing trying to print it so we made it for them as a print to order. Needless to say they were impressed with the Ultimaker print and re-thinking their Gmax. It was printed on UM green PLA. Probably one of my favorite UM colours. The first print, I messed up the custom supports which is why it exploded half way through.

Yoinks I seem to have unusually long prints then.. 12 - 18 hrs is quite common for me. I aim for 16 hours so I set it when I leave and come back to a spectacular print! (or spectacular spaghetti monster) we do a bunch of 40 hr ones too. I have to say I feel much more comfortable doing those with the 2+. (this spaghetti monster was user error)

You mean painting? or coloring the filament itself?

Hi Folks, So I print a lot on these great machines, and UM/CURA does a great job of balancing the ease of use for beginners and allowing the control and efficiency for power users. BUT! There is always room for more efficiency! Here are some quality of life suggestions I have that would save me and I'm sure many of the power users precious few seconds and minutes. 1. Release the steppers after a material change, and buildplate leveling. This one is at the top of my list because 90% of the time after changing materials, I tend to clean the gunk off the tip of the nozzle, or do a mini atomic pull to clear out the previous colour. Locking the steppers after a material change means I need to turn the machine off and on again in order to work on the head where I need it (usually at the front center) 2. one click Preheat Bed option in the maintenance->advance menu please! I often pre-heat my bed when I know I'm going to print something soon since that takes the longest, and then I go slice my file and by the time I get back to the printer, the bed is ready to go. Streamlining this process with a single menu item like on the UMO+'s would be great. 3. Expert Bed level option Currently, the bed leveling wizard will go to each of the leveling screws twice. I would like an option to do the bed leveling so it hits the 3 points only once and it's done. I often level the bed the first go, and then just skip through the wizard when it asks for the sheet of paper. I'm sure many of you do the same. Perhaps there is a toggle in the maintenance menu that allows you to switch from expert and beginner bed leveling. 4. Retract Primed nozzle button With the addition of a manual latch on the 2+ and Olsson blocks, I find myself in more situations where I have a fully primed nozzle (filament is all the way to the tip) If you start a print at this point, it has a high chance of grinding the filament down, especially more fragile filaments like Flex or Fills because the printer anticipates that there is a 6mm or so retraction at the end of a print. If this 'space' isn't there it double primes and either a ton of material gets ejected too quickly, or you get grinding. A button that retracts the exact amount as when a print finishes would be a great way to make sure the filament is at the right position at the start of the next print for normalized pressure in the nozzle. 5. Cura presets for UM2+ "maximum width" needs to be 225 and not 230. On occasion, the fan shroud will touch the right side of the printer at it's maximum build volume making scary noises, scratches and an offset print. That's all for now! Let me know if anyone else feels the need for these additions/changes

Guys. GUYS. I have an idea. all emoji's need to be replaced with

@ASB PLA is actually more rigid, ABS has a little bit more give to it so it's a bit tougher. Aesthetically, ABS looks a bit more matte so it feels a bit smoother sometimes, but PLA holds edges slightly better so you get sharper corners on your prints. About paints: All types of paints work on PLA - so long as you prime your object first with a good primer. I've tried all 3 kinds of paint, lacquer, enamels and acrylics and they all have their pros and cons, but they are all usable on PLA. Acrylic - easiest to work with, dries almost instantly and relatively easy to fix mistakes. Not so durable finish however. Very inexpensive and many choices. Doesn't stink, not toxic and soluable in water. Enamel paints - (the little model kit ones) Takes a very long time to cure 1-4 days. But as it does, it tends to 'pull' into itself a little bit so you get a smoother finish and if primed and sanded you get a nice shiny car like finish. The finish is very durable compared to acrylic. It goes on kinda thick too so it can hide lines a little bit. A bit stinky and soluable in mineral spirits or oil based solvents. Lacquer paints - Extremely thin paints, if there are imperfections the paints will do nothing to cover it. Dries extremely fast and a very thin coat. You need to seal / protect it with something. Generally difficult and stinky to work with but some effects like shiney reflective metals is only achieved through some lacquer paints. You will need to fill/prime and sand for good results. Hope that helps!

I usually change the nozzle at 90C. That way I get a free atomic pull with the nozzle change. In addition, too cold and it will be too stuck, too hot and you risk oozy material getting into the threads.

This could be the heated bed, check that the connections on the heated bed are tight. When you change materials, it only heats the nozzle so it seems like that's working fine. But if you start a print, it heats the bed up to temperature before the nozzle, so if the bed never heats to temperature, your nozzle will not start either and your print will sit idle. So, first, go to maintenance -> advanced -> heatup buildplate, set to 60. Watch it for a bit, the temperature should slowly climb, if it doesn't you probably have a loose connection to the bed.

Thank you for your answer my printer is 2 years old. I would say that my total printing time is something around 400 - 500 hours, problem started something around 300 hours of printing. I will provide you with the appropriate photos when I return home ;-). Only one question if it is the PTFE coupler why does it print birlliantly in ABS ? 2 yrs and 500 hrs it is likely the PTFE is the culprit. 2 years ago, I'm nots ure if they started including a hot end pack with the printer, but check to see if you have an extra PTFE in your box and install it if you do. Otherwise, get a PTFE and it should solve your issues. The problem with the PTFE is it develops a cavity near where it touches the brass. It seems like when it retracts, the hot PLA goes into the PTFE and expands outwards into the cavity when the retraction rolls the filament forward. This blob eventually hardens or enough pressure is built that it isn't able to push filament down more. You can also see this when you do an atomic pull and it snaps or stretches with a small blob at the end. Here's a picture of some deformed PTFE's I sliced through. @Eldrick I tried drilling out PTFE's back in the day when I thought there was a lip that was formed preventing the extrusion, but this only helps for a few more prints, the cavity is what I find is the cause of all the printing woes. If you do buy a PTFE, get the new teflon ones used in the +'s those are awesome and last a lot longer.

How old is your printer and how long have you been printing with it? If you feel excess resistance pushing the filament through by hand it's likely caused by the PTFE coupler. That needs to be changed out every once in a while. And the usual symptom is under extrusion to non-extrusion after about 10 layers. If you could post a picture of your failed prints this will also help diagnose.

Sometimes some crazy noises can be made with the pully on the Y motor rubbing on the acrylic cover on the left. Check to see that your pully hasn't shifted.

You could just do it through cura filament calculations. I think you would choose the model, pre-slice to determine it's weight and you're not allowed to mess with the base model, only add exterior supports. Then you could just subtract the total print weight from the cura estimation with the contestant's version. I don't think it would be unreasonable to ask for model files to do a quick slice in this case since there are no IP or models to protect since you're providing/choosing it. Maybe also add a criteria in there of how easy/hard it is to remove the support