valcrow

But it's so cute. It's great for people who have to show 3d printing off for whatever reason. It is small and has a travel case. I imagine it would be pretty useful for professors/teachers. Also some people don't need to print large things. I rarely print anything over 120mm. But a heated bed would be nice.

The feeder turns according to a combination of all your settings. from your filament diameter to your print speed to your nozzle diameter. It's all calculated based on putting down the right amount of material. It will turn slower when you print slower, or if you want less material extruded. So your first layer would turn slow (since it's usually around 20mm/s) and then when your print reaches full speed (usually around 50mm/s it will turn accordingly faster to ensure that the right amount of material is coming out of the nozzle for how fast it is going. There is no constant set speed in which your extruder turns it's all relative to everything else. If you increase flow rate, the extruder will turn faster. The flow rate is a percentage, if you're under extruding for some reason, you can increase flow rate on the fly. Or decrease if you're over extruding. I wouldn't recommend this though, usually it means something else is off like your filament diameter or bed level. It's better to get a proper start than a bandaid solution fix like flow rate adjustments. You adjust print speed according to your precision needs. Slower is usually better, faster means you'll get your part faster. 50mm/s usually is a good place to be good a good looking print. You don't need to adjust the flow rate manually if you adjust your print speed this is all pre-calculated.

Cupcake looks great! thought it was real just really weird you would use so much black dye/food coloring. Don't acetone it, the matte finish is totally what makes it!

That is wonderful news!

Great write up! I'm sure a lot of people including myself have thought about a form1 at some point either as a companion to the UM or as a direct comparison. It's good to hear about your perspective from a UM2 user standpoint. The print quality sounds really attractive for little detailed things. But the mess, cleanup and exposed chemicals make me think twice about using it for anything other than business related stuff. Keep us in the loop if you do any more direct print sample comparisons! Thanks for your thoughts!

Any gluestick works, some people swear by certain brands. (apparently the purple one is good). or regular staples ones. I would avoid cheap chinese or dollar store ones though, they are usually very goopy. If you're printing PLA you don't even need glue. I've bearly used the one mine came with.

Congrats to all the participants, really cool stuff all around! & thanks UM for awesome prizes/contest. Looking forward to making some cool stuff in phase3!

Hey Fellas, Here's my hero page entries! descriptions under the page.

@3DofTom Wow, that is an impressive amount of models in great detail! Hats off to you sir. I love the gear planet.

PLA should be smooth. Don't use glue, clean the plate really nice. set it to 60C, and like PM dude said do maybe 1/2 turn of each of the buildplate screw (loosen) and it should take you to where you want it.

I didn't make the sausage. I just linked it for trolling purposes. :mrgreen: That's a nice lookin print! hard to get those tiny small things to print right.

Here you go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149630http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149630 Congrats on your printer. awesome feeling to get the first great print!

Ohhh. oh. I had another idea so I drew it out quickly. Not sure it makes the cutoff, but here it is anyways. This one is designed to showcase your materials.

Too bad there wasn't much time to work on this.. but here are some sketches of my idea:

Oh! I am! hunting anaconda's with my little eagle. I am Valcrow, will add you when next I get in... though I've haven't had too much time to play lately.

It sounds like you don't have the locking part in place. There is a little black plastic piece that looks like a bone with a C on one side. This is suppose to clamp onto the knurled bolt after it's been inserted into the extruder. There's a slot for this on the opposite side of the gear. This prevents the whole gear/knurled bolt assembly from winding it's way out. You might have missed that part in the instructions. *edit* found the picture: Make sure the black plastic piece is clipped onto the bolt. See the slot on the right of the knurling?

I use metric (millimeters) and 1 unit = 1mm check on "respect system units in file" Models come out accurate and true in cura.

also if your glass is dirty, like if you touched it recently, finger oils ill prevent proper sticking. Try cleaning with a bit of alcohol to get squeeky clean

Looks superb!! Details and painting are wonderful

I dunno... they're saying that nozzles are considered consumables. Which, while valid, is kind of scary to hear from a filament manufacturer concerning wear and tear on the nozzle. There is another thread on here where glowfill has ground down the filament to the point of unusability after a 40 hour print. I think I'll wait to see how it goes from the brave and experimental folks.

I can't tell you have much grief this has caused me inadvertently making pegs and things. Beware! that's the case for cylinders too!

I'm a max user, you need to set your units in max to mm to get accurate translations in Cura. make sure you do: customize -> units setup Set it to metric, then go to system unit setup. make sure 1 unit = 1 mm check on the option: "respect system units in files"

See reply #5, reply directly from protopasta

Hi there, I am from Mississauga. When I got it they only shipped from the Netherlands so it was pricey, but what you need to worrry about is duties, which is around 400 bucks for a UM2. I imagine shipping will be better now though since it's coming from memphesis instead of the Netherlands. Also beware of lower canadian dollar. I have 3 UM's here, and I've never had to send them back for servicing. I hear they are switching over some support software so it's been kinda slow/unresponsive for tickets but illuminarti is usually always responsive (he takes care of the North American folks). I usually post on the forums and fix it myself which has been working well for me. I usually order my filament from Voxel factory in montreal. But most recently, I've got it from these guys: http://filaments.ca/%20Service%20for%20both%20companies%20is%20really%20fast.%20Voxel%20has%20better%20prices,%20but%20beware%20the%20generic%20brand%20of%20filament%20they%20have%20their%20is%20ACTUAL%203.0mm%20and%20not%202.85%20which%20can%20be%20tighter%20than%20normal.%20(but%20still%20usable,%20just%20not%20ideal.) Welcome!

Because thingiverse is a collection of random people's designs, they are created in all sorts of programs. Sometimes objects are designed in Z-up programs and some Y-up causing the model to be rotated 90 degrees. Sometimes inches and sometimes cm. When this is the case the scale is sometimes incorrect. At least that's one possibility that I've noticed with thingiverse files.