Dim3nsioneer
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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer
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That (Form 2) looks pretty simple to me and might also be possible on the S5...
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Schau mal nach ob Du die aktuelle Version Deiner Grafikkarten-Treiber installiert hast. Ein Update könnte das Problem lösen. Ansonsten hilft ev. ein Blick in die Cura Logs.
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Es gibt einen einfachen Test. Halt mal die Hand aufs Druckbett (Annahme die Temperaturreflexe funktionieren ganz normal). Wenn Du Sie ganz kurz (<1s) drauflegen kannst, automatisch aber wieder wegziehst, dann dürfte das mit den 60 Grad nicht schlecht stimmen. Natürlich machst Du das auf eigenes Risiko ?
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Another suggestion: Why not making a Cura plugin out of the Mark2 files? When it works with a new version, it can be made available through the Toolbox. So everybody can see if the Mark 2 is ready for a certain Cura version.
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That's a Cura Connect bug. Should be fixed with the next firmware release.
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You have to create the subsets in the 3d modeling software or whatever software you use. If you don't have any software you can use for this, you might want to check out Autodesk Meshmixer.
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This is what you could do with Cura.
First, split into subsets of the parts with the same density. Their origin and scal should of course be the same.
Then load the different subsets into Cura. Use the per object settings on the left and select "infill density". Select each subset and assign an infill density to it. Finally, select all subsets, right click on the selection and use the "merge models" function.
You can also assign one or more subsets to the second extruder if you want to print it with a different material/color.
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It's certainly possible to write some VI's for controlling an Ultimaker. For an UM2+ you will have to control the USB connection (make sure Cura does not run as it grabs the connection). For an UM3 or a S5, have a look at the API docs which you find under http://yourprinterip/docs/api.
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The PauseAtHeight Script is fixed for the next Cura version so it also works with the Ultimaker 3 and S5 printers.
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It's pretty safe to assume that everything you put on an Ultimaker printer which is not from Ultimaker or one of the materials partners will also throw that error in future if you have your self-made material profile in Cura. But isn't that a relatively small price to pay for the freedom of being able to print any 2.85mm filament with temperature up to 280°C?
Btw. be aware that regular usage of XT CF-20 in the Ultimaker 3 will also wear down the feeder.
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When you open the front bracket of the print head you can see the capacitive sensor at the back of the bottom. A red and a white wire are connected to it. Make sure both wire ends sit in their connector. If they are, please contact your reseller for further assistance.
While you have the bracket open you also could make sure the silicon pad is properly seated there; it seems to me that it is not.
Finally I would recommend to check the belt tension. The rear belt is more or sell a slack line. For getting a proper tension, open the set screws of the two corresponding pulleys and move the print head about five times back and forth in this direction. Then tighten the screws of the pulleys again while making sure the axes those pulleys run on do not have lateral play.
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For Ultimaker 3 users it might be interesting to know you can actually use the new core on an UM3. But as Sander pointed out wear on the standard feeder there might be a problem. This could be overcome for the time being with a third party product such as the Bondtech DDG feeder.
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Maybe you want to have a look at @tinkergnome's firmware: https://github.com/TinkerGnome
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@bidav there are dryboxes in which you can store the filament during printing such as the Polybox from Polymaker (one of the cheaper solutions) or e.g. the filament storage device from Mass Portal (more expensive). The only drawback is that you loose the automatic filament recognition for the Ultimaker filament as you don't have the filament on the NFC spool holder anymore.
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On 9/22/2018 at 3:31 PM, Carla_Birch said:
They do go almost off to be true i think when i turn mine down at night, side effect of them being totally off would be the camera would be of no use in the dark.
That would not be a problem if one could change the brightness setting through Cura Connect (hint, hint...)
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Have you already checked if the print head axes are parallel to the main x/y axes? Do you have lateral play in one or more of the axes?
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Do you get the same result when checking physically with a engineer's square?
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It could be a numerical thing combined with the resolution of the stepper. In that case, rotating the object by 45° will solve it.
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It could be the slider blocks are worn out. This might happen over a few thousand print hours if the alignment of the print head axes is not perfect.Simply replace the sliding blocks (can be done in-situ); your reseller should be able to get new blocks (half shells) for you.
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Right-click on the model and select 'multiply model'
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9 hours ago, LePaul said:
Ultimaker 2+ ?
Mark2 ?
I see you got some good advices in the meantime.
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1 hour ago, LePaul said:
That's interesting. So there's no way for a set some solid layers first to strengthen the support to the bed?
Sure there is. Use a brim made from PVA.
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I had good results with 10mm for the join distance. Default value for the horizontal expansion is in most cases not so bad but sometimes it does itself create islands on the outside of a print. Then I set it to 0.
UM S5 WiFi menu is not active!
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Make sure you have firmware 5.0.19 on your S5 (read here how to update it with the USB stick: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware).
Next, try a Cura Connect reset. If that does not help, please contact your reseller.