yellowshark

I don't know if you are using 1.75 or 2.85 but I have never experience a snap with my colorFabb 2.85 filaments. I would put your experiences into an email and send to colorFabb and request a replacement. I did such a thing over a year ago and received a replacement from them very quickly.

1500 wet and dry works very well on minor "raised" blemishes. I have been using it this week preparing some parts for spray painting

You need to be careful with a Dremel as heat builds up very quickly and will melt the plastic. Personally I do not use one because my wife is a jeweller and so I have access to high quality(expensive) files. If you go down that route, you do not use a sawing action with the file, i.e. back and forth. You position the file and push, position and push etc.

Well I wonder about a couple of things. Firstly your temp. must be too hot. I print Faberdashery red at 30mm/s, layer .200 at 210c; so that is 3X the amount of material at 20c lower. Also I wonder how you set your print up to reach your minimum layer temp.? What is the temp and what is your infill setting? Also were you using 100%on the fans? Did you do the under extrusion test with same filament?

OK I loaded you .obj fie into Cura 14.07. Probably a different version to you and I got a different result, albeit wrong I then loaded the .obj file into Meshmixer and ran Inspector No idea what all those pointers are but presumable errors. I saved it as an STL file then loaded the STL into Meshlab and visually it looked fine. I displayed non-manifold edges and got 1668 non manifold edges over and 5961 faces over the non-manifold edges. As you can see they all seem to be around the top of the model. (edited to correct the picture) I then loaded the STL file into Netfabb Basic and got an error during loading I tried loading the .obj file and that loaded successfully. Doing a health check though reported that the mesh was not closed and was not orientable. In the background whilst all this was going on, I had loaded the STL file into Repetier Host; it was hung during or at the end of the intersection tests. I tried fixing the model in both Meshmixer and Netfabb but failed. Playing around with meshes is not my strong suite – hopefully someone else can help! I loaded the mesh into InStep which reported 7,545 errors including 1950 pierced facets, 4000+ unattached edges. There are 122 bodies in the mesh. I am guessing that all the bits of corn are separate bodies and where thay have all been joined together, it has not gone very well.

Sorry it was late when I posted and my brain was not engaged. What I said may work. But it is not really the solution because I do not understand why Cura would do that. If you want to send me your STL file I will have a look.

I would try equalising your infill speed and your perimeter speed and see what happens. You are asking the machine to move from 20mm/s to 80mm/s and I am betting it takes some time to get that new pressure equalised. Once it does you the get your section of perfect infill.

Glad to hear you fixed it. It has happened to me twice. That is burned filament and as you now realise doing a few atomic pulls does not shift it. I have done atomic pulls and not seen anything on the filament but it still comes out again. I have no idea why you can print for 30 minutes and then out it comes again. It was this experience that led me to putting the extruder and nozzle into boiling water and poking around with a small screwdriver and toothpick unit I was sure there was nothing left. If I recall correctly it was jammed around the screw thread in the extruder and not visible without looking really carefully.

Sorry I disagree, you live in Scotland not the Mediterranean! I would go with ambient temp. which is probably circa 18- 20 unless of course you eat porridge and wear a kilt in which case that would probably be 5 I do not think it materially affects the print during printing if your printer is enclosed but the bigger the temp. range on completion then the more shrinkage you are likely to get without managing it. The first thing you need is to specify minimum layer time; there are some different views on what the minimum time should be, personally I go for 10secs. Even that though will not help you at the bottom and at the top of the sphere as the printer will probably only go as low as 10mm/s. So yes a 2nd copy on the bed, placed far enough away to get you 10 secs might be mandatory - difficult to judge the size of the sphere. An alternative is to use z-lift; this though has the disadvantage of leaking filament which will get dragged over the top of your model - but if you supervise with a screwdriver, with a bit of practice you can wipe the leaked filament away just before it moves back to the print the next layer. A PIA but it can be done

My only wet experience is with the 645 nylon which I used to make some shock absorber seals for a friend's 1951 MG. after a year they have remained watertight, or I suppose to be correct oil-tight, and are doing the job. Whether or not they have got any softer/weaker would be impossible to tell without taking the suspension apart. I can only assume that if they were getting weaker and started to disintegrate then they would start to leak.

I buy my Fab filament in 40m or 50m lengths; I find anything larger than that a bit unmanageable unless you like spools in which case 100m lengths from Fab now come on a spool. When I get my loose filament from Fab I lay it on the floor, to my left, then take the top end and holding it in my right hand, I pick up a loop and sort of place it/wind it alongside the other loop(s) on my right hand. You will probably get to a place along the filament where it is wound the other way and with your left hand you will need to spin the filament on the floor to get it winding the right way again - a lot easier than all that just sounded! The loops in you right hand should be a similar size to how the filament arrived - i.e. a lot bigger than the loops on a spool. Once you have all the filament wound around your right hand fingers you are ready to go and should not have a problem.

Set infill to 100% Go to Expert tab and select Expert settings... At bottom left under Infill do not check the box for Solid Infill Top.

..I should add that Taulman used to make their nylons to 3.0mm. But people with Bowden tube printers, like the UM, were having problems with getting the filament through the Bowden so that Taulman, just over a year ago, changed their production to produce the filaments at 2.85mm instead.

Hi your cheaper projects with cheaper PLA will get you more jams and frustration. :cool: What is the 2.85mm thickness ISSUE? All of the decent 3mm PLA filaments that I have experienced are 2.85mm

Oh, also have you tried cropping yet with the Fuel software? When I visited them they cropped the files for me but that seemed to be the cause of the meshes having 800-1200 errors in the mesh. I did accept that the software was still under development so I am wondering if that has now been cured?

I put your pic into Photoshop to try and enlarge it to see the facets but it is too small. It looks pretty smooth, what resolution is that scan, i.e. no of facets/faces. Also have you tried stitching the other part of the face to that model?; interested to know how that part of the software is working.

Lol; Chrome? too invasive, Safari? thought that was apple, firefox? been there done that. OK as I am in the right place I will do some searching, not quite sure what is doing it but sure I will find it! Thanks

If it still fails after personal drone's suggestions then change the wall to 0.6 and check the layer view in Cura. Are you getting a single wall or a double wall? If a double wall then take the wall down to 0.4. Something I did last week suggests that on overhangs a single wall may work better than multiple walls. I was using a 0.8 nozzle with a wall of 1.2 (and got a single wall). Personally I would go to 20-30mm/s with 20 being the preference. But if it took 17 hours at 70mm/s I can see that will not be a popular suggestion :-P

Go to the advanced tab, under the Quality section you will see "cut off object bottom". Tell it how many mm you want to cut off and you will see the model sink into the print bed. This sorts the top half. Then the success of the bottom half will depend on the shape of your model; rotate the model 180 degrees about the Y axis and again cut-off the model.

Thanks Dim3nsioneer, that is what I did (plus other things as well) It does not work for me; when I right click on 15.01(download here) I get an IE menu box with Copy & Cut disabled and if you use the "save tartget as.." you just end up with a text file not a .py file

Hi MrsP, flexible filament is difficult to work with when using a printer with a Bowden tube like the UM. As a beginner you will save yourself a lot of grief if you buy some "normal" PLA from someone like Faberdashery.co.uk

No doubt a dumb question but I cannot work out how to copy this file. I can display the code in various ways in github but cannot find a .py file that in Windows I can right click and select "copy". Help please :oops:

Well the way I am looking at it, your infill is fused to your perimeter. With 1.2 you get 3 walls and it looks to me like there is a gap between the middle and inner wall. What filament width setting have you got and, measuring along a 10mtr strip of filament (selectively) what measurements are you seeing.? What is your layer depth? What is your infill %? What are your retraction settings. - that aspect looks a real mess although I will accept that a close up photo, especially if using flash, can make a model look far far worse that it actually is In your first pic. were the 4 models printed individually, or printed 4 on the bed - was that using "print one at a time" or "print all at once"? What is your minimum layer time set to? Just to confirm, the models in pic 1 were printed at 30mm/s and 220c? You do not say what filament you are using. If it is PLA do you have another filament you can try, something from Ultimaker, Faberdashery or colorFabb?

No idea at the moment but let's start. Load one of the models into Cura. Select it and then select the scaling icon, the middle one of the three icons in bottom left corner of the print bed window. Note down the x/y/z dimensions and then delete the model from the print bed. Load the 2nd model and do the same. If the two sets of dimensions are the same and you printed them individually and got different sizes then I am afraid I have no idea what is going on. I am assuming you printed the 2nd model without touching any of the Cura or printer settings. If this is the case then I am happy to take your two Solidworks part files and load them into Solidworks and see what we find. I will message you my email address. Of course some smart guy may answer it in an hour or two!

I visited Fuel3d offices last October to look at the scanner and get sample scans for processing. I came away with several .stl files one of which had 700,000 faces in the mesh, so plenty of resolution if your software can handle it. At the time they were uncertain which package was going to contain which level of software, although I did get the impression that the mesh stitching software would not be in the base level. This is important if you want to take 360 degree scans, maybe even 180 degree scans. The unit is not a scanner, it is a camera. To get a 360 scan you will need to take at least four pictures and stitch them together.