cor3ys

@sandervG So far this morning i have had 8 notifications about the 3D print show London United Kingdom Why so many notifications about the same event ?

It goes on the bowden tube on the print head, just like the other end at the feeder

@Swordriff I fitted the second IPM and it looks like it does not like heavy retractions, in the picture you can see under extrusion on the elephant, Next to it is a 30mmx30mm cube with zero retractions and it has printed perfect no under extrusion at all.. I have included a link to the file so you can download and zoom in to see better... Download picture

I'm with you there @pm_dude hopefully the new IPM will be better that swordriff has sent out. really want this IPM to work

Yeh i am using standard retraction settings also, never had any issues with grinding but i am using iroberts feeder.. If you can't print elephants what about a Fox This is what i can normally achieve with the standard Teflon

Hi Carl Yes Retraction seems to kill it, perhaps other testers want to give this print ago to see what results they get http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:287891 @swordriff looking forward to giving the new IPM ago hopefully with better results

That's what i would have thought but polymax worked and not making any adjustments failed on PLA and XT with heavy retraction.. Thats why i was wondering what type of prints Gixxer was basing his test's on. are they just basic straight forward prints or is he actually putting the IPM through stress test and using various prints with heavy retraction etc...

@gixxer What type of parts are you printing for your tests ? do they involve any heavy retraction parts ?

I have a vbulletin license if Ultimaker want to put it to use I threw this up in half hour so you can all dream of what a forum should look like on an old domain im not using 3dprinting.bar

What settings are you using ? Have you tried printing more than one at a time ? so it gives the peg time to cool down

that's why i had issues when i changed mine about 3 hours ago, it just froze all the time then it took it.... glad its fixed for others now...

It took me about 4 or 5 attempts to change mine but it took it eventually...

I was just short of about 200 post now down to 86 posts

Do you mean something like this Olsson Block

I was 100% faberdashery, But now i get the 20% discount on colorfabb (through 3dhubs) and free shipping for 4 spools it works out to £23 a spool with the nice current exchange rate :smile: Faberdashery want £30 spool plus shipping....

You need to turn the hot end isolator, you should be able to put an Allen key in the holes and turn it. This will raise or lower it depending which way you turn the isolator.. then the white Teflon piece will sit lower and the nozzle will be lower giving you the clearance for the 8mm shroud.

Good spot Meduza, you are correct there should not be no more than a 1mm gap. that would explain why he had issues...

Excellent i will upload the 7mm one also to youmagine then people can decided which one to use.

OK just made you a 7mm one give me 5 minutes to upload it to my server, I will PM you the link, if it works out OK let me know and i will add it to youmagine for others to chose either the 8mm or 7mm...

Hi MelKolo No i have not had any issues when leveling the bed, in fact i always run the bed leveling every time i change nozzles just to make sure all is fine. The shroud does not hit any of my front clips at all... Are you running the latest firmware ? My UM2 is from 2013 so i don't know if they change the clips in any way from what i have on my machine since then.. How much extra clearance are you looking for ?

Printing the UM robot was the only real test i carried just to see if the cooling was up to making both sides look good, because the right hand side normally suffers with the standard fan shroud. here is a link to Sprints web site you can see all the testing he carried out seems quite extensive. Yes i also feel that could be improved, maybe that could be version 2. For now i have left that alone and is as the original design by Sprint, i only adjusted it to work with Anders heater block so now there is a much bigger air gap between block and shroud to stop heat deformation of the shroud and making access for a quick nozzle change..

Well here is my first attempt, turned out quite well i think...

Hi Guys I have been playing with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount--2#!design-information and modifying it to to work with Anders heater block. I like this design because it is enclosed and stops any temperature errors caused by open bottom designs. I have lowered the whole thing by 8mm, this means the bottom of anders heater block is 4mm - 4.5mm away from the fan shroud enclosure, this means i did not have to use any tape as per sprint original design. I have used ABS for the shroud for the last 2 weeks and had no deformation at all (see red shroud above) and currently running a XT-CF20 shroud with no issues at all. both been run with 250 degrees temperature. Have not tried PLA for the shroud. I have also opened up the nozzle hole to take the socket that is supplied with Anders nozzle for easy changing of nozzles. Edit: now posted to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud