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  1. Absolutely awesome & impressive!!! Big thumbs up! Looks like dual extrusion in good quality with an Ultimaker is in reach... I´d love to build one of these. Will get another printer soon, so I will have my Ultimaker free for fiddling around with this. But don´t have the time right now... Hmpf... So I will have to wait a little.
  2. Hi, right now I am useing a very simple enclosure for my Ultimaker. It´s kind of a heat tent on top and all sides closed workes very fine with a heated bed. Improves print quality a lot. Also changed to direct dirve, which works like charm. Getting very accurate parts with great repeatability. Working on another printer and it will get a closed heat chamber. I will use the following setup: 1) Electric room heater, 230V, 750W, sth. like this: http://www.amazon.de/Konvektor-Heizung-Elektroheizung-2000-W/dp/B009NEEQ2W/ref=pd_sim_diy_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DWEB50X44AQBSVBAZZQ (Has 2000W, but two coils. If I use this one, then I will only use the 750W coil. There are cheaper and weaker ones, but this one got a metal housing. Won´t give me problems with melting plastic... This defvice in it´s original state is safe, you can´t touch the heater wire etc. Got a CE mark, but be careful and know what you are doing if you modify it) 2) Solid state relay to controll the heater with the standard Arduino based PCB. 3) 12V radial fan like this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Querstromlufter-Motor-links-12-V-X-Fan-DF43300-L/400782210311 Foehnsturm gave me the idea with his cross flow fan approach and I used it as crossflow fan for quite a time. It´s made of metal and it´s possible to keep the motor out of the heated zone. Ideal solution. I think this type of fan is also used in kitchen ovens, but not 100% sure. On the package it says it´s actually made for heat management. Perfect. 4) Safety switch, which automatically switches off the whole printer, if the temperature inside the chamber is higher than 120°C. Building this solution requires working with 230V mains. All on your own risk. I won´t take any responsibility. Don´t do it if you do not have the required skills and knowledge. Safety first! Won´t fit into a standard Ultimaker, but maybe an inspiration. Also be carefull with the material for your enclosure and also the one the Ultimaker itself is made of. It might catch fire! Especially if you have an Ultimaker original made of wood. Hope this gives you an idea. All the best, Philip
  3. Brilliant idea! Love that one. I also like your direct extruder and flexdrive approach. Hope I will soon have the time to start thinkering with my printer as well. About the garage, that name inspired me to an idea. Thinking about special garages, where you can park one car upon the other, because they have a lift. What if you just had sth. like a lift for the garage with the unused print head? The garage could swing away or just being lifted above the area where the print head moves with a parallelogram type hinge. To operate this lift a very cheap, simple and fast solution would be this motor for a central locking system of a car: http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MTE1OTg2OTk-/Motoren/DC_Getriebemotoren/Stellmotor_fuer_Zentralverriegelung_12_V_.html Can lift up to 7,5kg, which is more than enough, travels 20mm, is fast and requires only 12V to operate. If you use a spring to keep it in the upper position, all you need to do, if you want to change is, put 12V on the motor for the change time and if no voltage is applied it would lift automatically. Used them on another project and wired them up to an Arduino, with a Transistor amplifing the signal. The only thing is you need an additional I/O pin on the electronics. There are free ones, but im not sure which one is best and if maybe another unused M-code for this PIN exists. Saves print space, but increases complexity. With this setup you could even change between more than 2 print heads. Just my 5 cents. Not sure if it is worth the work.
  4. Looks awesome and the print result, too. Good work. Hope I will finish mine soon. But not this year anymore... Never ending story.
  5. :???: All I wanted for Christmas was a pink unicorn. I think we have to talk to Santa Daid... :-P
  6. What about the Z-seam and small blobs comeing from stringing, when the printhead does not move inside the case. Anybody solved this? Is S3D better in this aspect? Is it worth the money or is the difference very small. I like Cura a lot and the overall print quality improved a lot with the new software update. No Z-seam on most prints, but on the fairphone. This really gives me headaches.
  7. Not yet, but soon. Just got an email from him yesterday.
  8. Hey, had the same proble half a year ago. As you said, the fan could be responsible for this. It´s using PWM for speed control and when not running at full speed a lot of pulses are being sent through its wire. Neither the fan cable nor the thermocouple cable is shielded and the thermocouple is very prone to interference. So the fan causes wrong temperature readings. Easiest way to avoid this is to either turn the fan completely on or off, but nothing in between. The better way is to separate these two cables from one another. That should help. Cheers, Philip
  9. Moin, das Stringing kann auch daran liegen, dass du eventuell ein anderes Material verwendest und die Temperatur dafür etwas zu hoch ist. Probier mal folgendes, lade dir (oder bau es dir kurz selbst) ein kleines gut geeignetes Testobjekt für Stringing runter. z.B. zwei 5mm Säulen im Abstand von 2 cm oder so. Drucke das mit deinen normalen Einstellungen. Dann senke alle 5mm die Temperatur des Hotends um 5°C ab. Meistens findest du dann eine Temperatur bei der das Stringing stark abnimmt oder im Idealfall komplett verschwunden ist. Diese Temperatur nimmst du dann als Ausgangspunkt und erhöhst sie wieder leicht, bis du den Punkt wo das Stringing anfängt exakt hast und leicht, 2°C oder so drunter bleibst. Es gab zu dem Thema auch einen Post von gr5 wo er das mit Bildern dokumentiert hat. Hoffe das hilft dir weiter. Viel Spaß beim Experimentieren. Viele Grüße, Philip
  10. Hi Walter, Normally when I have that problem, it simply can´t save. Two reasons I figured out: SD card is full (found some very old 32MB cards, they work fine but only enough space for 1 or 2 models) Ejected the SD card too many times without safely removing before. Go to the disk utility program on your mac and format the SD card. That´s it. Mine worked fine afterwards. Hope this helps. Cheers, Philip
  11. That printer has some very interesting features. Especially that they got some kind of dual extrusion running, although they don´t use it for support, but for printing with two different nozzle sizes on one part. The features are interesting, but I prefer different XYZ-moving systems than the Mendel one.
  12. Trifft den Nagel auf den Kopf. Die Anforderungen sind entgegen gesetzt. 3D Drucker: Druckkopf möglichst leicht, geringe bewegte Massen, möglichst schnell Fräse: Stabilität, Masse um Vibrationen zu dämpfen, möglichst viel Kraft, langsame Vorschübe, Druckkopf möglichst stabil und verwindungssteif Wenn man das unter einen Hut bringen will kommt nen fauler Kompromiss dabei raus. Hinzu kommt, dass ne Fräse jede Menge Späne macht und du die denke ich nicht in deinem 3D Druck haben möchtest. Sprich du musst das Ding anschliessend bestens reinigen... Dachte anfangs ich würde zusätzlich ne CNC-Fräse brauchen. Habe aber inzwischen festgestellt, dass nen 3D-Drucker viel vielseitiger ist, Plastik viel stabiler als gedacht und längst nicht überall gefräste Teile erforderlich sind. Warte darauf, dass hier demnächst das Fablab aufmacht. Die Fräse da ist viel besser und größer als es mein Eigenbau je gewesen wäre und ich verdrecke meine Werkstatt damit nicht.
  13. I don´t know what you are actually planning to print and sell, but Ultimaker is a very good choice when it comes to high quality prints. To get the best results, you need experience, but this forum will help you. I started printing with PLA on my UM1. Which is easiert than ABS for the beginning. For most purposes PLA is fine, but if the temperature is higher than 50°C, it starts getting soft. ABS is fine until up to 110°C, if I remember correctly. XT is more stable and can be used for higher temperatures than PLA. It´s an alternative to ABS. Nylon is another one. Colorfabb and Faberdashery are great, but especially for Nylon Taulmann is a good alternative.
  14. Cool stuff. If you can, pm_dude, make it happen! Would be greatly appreciated.
  15. Yes, makes definitely sense. Core XY seems to be one of the best systems for larger printers. I am not sure where exact the border ist, but I would use core XY when going bigger than 500x500mm and maybe the Ultimaker gantry for smaller ones. But core XY also works for smaller systems. Working on a large one, but gut too many other "small" side projects... So it will take some time. Hope it´s finished by the end of the year.
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